i had the timing light on the car with it idling....15btdcsorrowfulkiller wrote:it could very well be just the manifold, but I'm going to bet that your timing is a bit off though like someone else said.
i had the timing light on the car with it idling....15btdcsorrowfulkiller wrote:it could very well be just the manifold, but I'm going to bet that your timing is a bit off though like someone else said.
Don't bother with them, you'd be better off with 30% oversized injectors and an adjustable FPR so you can adjust the fuel pressure up or down to run gas or e85 and check your afr's with a wideband like the aem uegoDrifterProdigy85 wrote:Ive been looking at these Flex Fuel Kits they make now. How well do they work?
hmmm, seems low, but the again I come from subies so idk what the ka24de's run stock. A stock wrx runs like 42 degrees advanced at idle from the factory so It's quite a difference from what nissan's run I figure.nelson8708 wrote:
i had the timing light on the car with it idling....15btdc
you really dont need one in a 240sx. If you just wanting to run e85 in a stock ka24de i've seen people drop in sr 370's with no tuning and run e85 with no problems. You just need to change the tune if you want to run stock injectors. It can be done with the stocker's but, idc is probably 100% if you run stock fuel pressure.DrifterProdigy85 wrote:Ive been looking at these Flex Fuel Kits they make now. How well do they work?
I found today that it wasn't the manifold when i pulled the old one off today. The turbo didn't spin very freely so i'm thinking that the restriction from the turbo is what caused the high heat. Since i already bought another manifold i'm going to swap anyways. I have a lot of work ahead of me to switch to this new manifold (DP, hot pipe, intake pipe, re-locate coil). I hope to have her back together in a month......going to rebuild the turbo also.....if its ok.sorrowfulkiller wrote:hmmm, seems low, but the again I come from subies so idk what the ka24de's run stock. A stock wrx runs like 42 degrees advanced at idle from the factory so It's quite a difference from what nissan's run I figure.
like I said, swap out the manifolds, see if there is any difference.
If you can, try taking apart the chra assembly, from there you will be able to find out if you need to change bearings and seals.nelson8708 wrote:I found today that it wasn't the manifold when i pulled the old one off today. The turbo didn't spin very freely so i'm thinking that the restriction from the turbo is what caused the high heat. Since i already bought another manifold i'm going to swap anyways. I have a lot of work ahead of me to switch to this new manifold (DP, hot pipe, intake pipe, re-locate coil). I hope to have her back together in a month......going to rebuild the turbo also.....if its ok.
+1sorrowfulkiller wrote:My guess is that your oil is getting coked up in the bearings
this is one more reason I love e85, clean burning (releases 1/8 of the greenhouse gases that gasoline does)nelson8708 wrote:+1
I have everything apart except the chra....both fans look great. Time to get back on topic......i'm sure WD is about ready to lay the smack down...."Do you smell what the WD is cookin"
E85 clean burning FTW.
DrifterProdigy85 wrote:How much HP can Dual Walbros support on e85? Im looking at upgrading to e85 for my T67 SR20. I need something 750hp Capable.
I know of two ka's that are making 700+whp and one rb26det making 800whp on e85 that are running dual walbro's They aren't having fuel pressure problems as of yet as far as i know. If you already have one walbro i would look into having a bosch 044 as a inline and the walbro feed it.DrifterProdigy85 wrote:How much HP can Dual Walbros support on e85? Im looking at upgrading to e85 for my T67 SR20. I need something 750hp Capable.
Throw a set of sohc pistons in there for a hi-comp build and then it might be worth running e85 so you dont have to pull timing.slidewayz808 wrote:im asking because there is a gas station near me. so cheaper gas which lets me run alot more timing and keep my engine running cooler. i have all bolt-ons and the cam swap set-up.
oooo I wouldn't make that claim. I thought it was late 80s, and the top end of the content was 10%.float_6969 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 04, 2019 11:37 amAnything built since the mid-80's (or maybe it was late 70's?) is supposed to be able to tolerate up to 20% ethanol content (E20) without any modifications to anything.