Dyno Results.....odd.

[HolyShiznit]

T3/T04e, .63 A/R, 57 trim. 1 bar boost. JWT ecu, tuned out by me and my SAFC II, 50lb injectors, Z32 maf. Apparently all the guys at the dyno said that I was getting pre-ignition and the ecu was pulling a lot of timing, indicated by the jumpiness of the dyno graph. All I know is I hope that's the case, otherwise my car is messed up.



Just realized that's hard to read, numbers were 262 whp and 260 torque. Also this was on pump gas, which is why I think it was knocking.

[Nismo_Freak]

Can't see your graph.

[HolyShiznit]

Bleh, lemme try to fix it.

[klattr1]

i saw the graph, prolly is spark plug gap. hope it works after you open it up some. .022" is too narrow for your range.

[WDRacing]

With 14 psi and 50 lb injectors and the JWT pulling timing out in gobs, you should have no detonation unless your running really lean. In which case you would have done that with the SAFC.

Whats your AF curve look like on boost? If its 11.5 or under you should have no detonation.

Also, if you fix the eratic jump whatever...you can probably advance the timng a few degree's to gain some power.

EDIT: Dude 22 is way to small ...lol. Unless you have a High capacity ignition exciter installed you'll need to open that up.

[HolyShiznit]

Well I dunno why the image won't work but I can send it to one of you guys if you want. 263whp/260torque is way too little for 14.7 pounds of boost with good compression motor.

[WDRacing]

send it to me right now, [email protected]

[WDRacing]

I'm the coolest Moderator ever...lol.

Anyway, fix your damn plug gap

[240SicknessX]

WD maybe you could host the dyno graph, i would like to see it also along with others.

if not, [email protected]

[WDRacing]

Your slow Rick...heh

[HolyShiznit]

So the major concensus is plug gap. What should I gap it at?

And yes WD you = teh coolest mod

[WDRacing]

Start at .032

[klattr1]

With 14 psi and 50 lb injectors and the JWT pulling timing out in gobs...

i was telling him the same thing as well, but i dont want to tell him to advance the base 3-4 degrees and then something blow up (stock internals at 15 psi). that could be the problem or part of the problem as well. if i had my MDM Techtom on his car, I would know for sure based on his ignition timing in WOT.with race gas, 3-4 deg. would be easy.

[Jookmasta]

those are some really low numbers for 1 bar, at least compared to others running similar setups. i didnt know that improperly gapped plugs could cause such a power loss.........i guess one more thing to add to my checklist b/f starting the car up with the snail

[HolyShiznit]

I hope that's just the problem, cause I agree with you. The power numbers are *** for that big of a turbo with that much boost.

[Jookmasta]

actually now that i think of it, my friend was making 280 or so at 9 psi from his T4 but still, ur boosting 5 psi more than him.............adjust the gaps and post ur results.

[fiznat]

I'm still kinda feeling this stuff out myself, so let me make a couple observations:

-Plug gap doesnt really seem like a good explination because if he isnt getting good enough spark then he will have more unburnt fuel in the exhaust. His AFR doesnt really seem to reflect that at all...

-Seems like if it isnt fuel (and it doesnt look like it is given the AFR...), then it must be timing. The question I would want to ask is what would make the ECU pull timing? I can think of only a few circumstances:

1. Knock 2. AFR3. Injector duty cycle (relates to 1 and 2)4. Coolant temp5. Some other faulty sensor

I dont think adding timing to base is really a good solution... maybe find out first if the ECU is pulling timing for sure, and second WHY its doing that...

Like I said I'm just sorta learning these basics of tuning myself so I could be wrong... but makes sense to me eh?

[klattr1]

I'm still kinda feeling this stuff out myself, so let me make a couple observations:

-Plug gap doesnt really seem like a good explination because if he isnt getting good enough spark then he will have more unburnt fuel in the exhaust. His AFR doesnt really seem to reflect that at all...

i wasnt referring to the power difference necessarily. i was talking about the erratic graph itself. the plug gap definitely isnt what he needs for 15 psi. but not enough timing can cause the grap to look like that as well. hopefully he'll find out.Holy Shiznit, talk to me on AIM and maybe ill ship you out my MDM Techtom.

[HolyShiznit]

We will talk soon Klatt, as for the A/F's, you have no idea how much I am taking out with the SAFC II, it's about -7at 3200 then I just yank out tons of fuel from 4-6, almost -17%, then back it down to -9% from 6 to 7. But we will see what happens when I change the plug gaps tomorrow, see if the A/F changes at all. I am not gonna go re-dyno again until I am sure that the problem is fixed, all these disappointing dyno's are weighing heavily on the bank account and my attitude. I have to drive 120 miles just to get to the nearest dyno.

[Nismo_Freak]

Plug gap would cause the car to buck when you accelerated, it would be pretty violent.

Your A/F's look correct. They should not be causing pre-ignition, nor detonation.

It's possible that your timing curve is too far advanced, however you would see large variations in the power curve.

Pull your plugs, and post a picture of what they look like.

Change your plugs out to NGK coppers with 0.35" on the gap.

You should check to see what base timing you have currently on the car.

[HolyShiznit]

Well I am in a relieved/pissed mood:

My shop....set the timing wrong and the distributor is off a tooth at least. It was sitting at 8 degrees BTDC and we could only adjust it to 15 BTDC because the distributor was off. So there is one HUGE factor in the loss of power. Plugs are now a minor issue at this point. I went to a certified Nissan mechanic that has been a friend of the families for years. I trust him and it makes sense with what is going wrong. So when that gets resolved I will post again.

PS: Nice thing is my shop is gonna pay for my next two dyno days.

[klattr1]

Well I am in a relieved/pissed mood:

My shop....set the timing wrong and the distributor is off a tooth at least. It was sitting at 8 degrees BTDC and we could only adjust it to 15 BTDC because the distributor was off. So there is one HUGE factor in the loss of power. Plugs are now a minor issue at this point. I went to a certified Nissan mechanic that has been a friend of the families for years. I trust him and it makes sense with what is going wrong. So when that gets resolved I will post again.

PS: Nice thing is my shop is gonna pay for my next two dyno days.

well, that would definitely explain the loss of power. i wouldnt say it was off a tooth because your car would run horrible. get the plug gap fixed and your timing up to 20 deg. (thats why i was gonna send you my MDM Techtom) and im sure you will see AT THE LEAST A 40 rwhp difference.good find and free dyno time is always nice! Your car will be a different monster afterwards!

follow this when setting your base timing:http://www.ka-t.org/tech

it has to be done properly!

[HolyShiznit]

Well it has to be off somewhat because it can't be advanced any farther than 15 degrees. The Nissan tech tried to, but it couldn't go any farther. He told me it was off and that I had to pull it out and put it back in correctly and it should be able to be advanced properly. So we will see if it works, I get the car back tonight and I am at work until 8 my time.

And yes I hope to god I get at least a 40rwhp difference. I have to re-tune it though, which sucks.

[NateDogg]

HolyShiznit: Did you run 13.3 with the timing off?

[klattr1]

Well it has to be off somewhat because it can't be advanced any farther than 15 degrees. The Nissan tech tried to, but it couldn't go any farther. He told me it was off and that I had to pull it out and put it back in correctly and it should be able to be advanced properly. So we will see if it works, I get the car back tonight and I am at work until 8 my time.

And yes I hope to god I get at least a 40rwhp difference. I have to re-tune it though, which sucks.

i just dont picture your car running as it good as it does now with a distributor thats off a tooth. the car will run or not run when its off a tooth. what rpm do you idle at?

[HolyShiznit]

HolyShiznit: Did you run 13.3 with the timing off?

Read my sig again, I ran a 13.3 @ 110 on my .6 bar set-up which had way less than my set-up does now.

Klatt I idle around 850-9 I think. I am going back to the dyno tomorrow assuming this all works tonight.

[EXIST tm]

holyshiz, nice to see another ka24det fan close to my home, i live like 2 minutes from that dyno.

mines just in the build process

[Red-KAT]

Wee more people around me!

I'm like 20-30min from HP Freaks. I'm deff doing my next dyno there.

[Nismo_Freak]

i just dont picture your car running as it good as it does now with a distributor thats off a tooth. the car will run or not run when its off a tooth. what rpm do you idle at?

The car will run and run just fine, it will just be sluggish.

It's a very simple mistake because if you line up the dots when you insert the distributer then it will be off a tooth. You need to offset it and slide it in so that the dots line up when you have it completely in. Same story for the CAS in the SR/CA/RB.

[klattr1]

The car will run and run just fine, it will just be sluggish.

It's a very simple mistake because if you line up the dots when you insert the distributer then it will be off a tooth. You need to offset it and slide it in so that the dots line up when you have it completely in. Same story for the CAS in the SR/CA/RB.

ive had my car and friends KA's off just one tooth at the distributor and it would barely idle. i would start it up and then it would die immediately die.