Dyno result: almost 290whp!

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
JDMSIL80
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Just came back from my first dyno run with my JDM 180SX.

Here's my mod list:

Bone stock motorGarrett GT28R444cc GT-R injectorsHorsham stage 3 chip Blitz I-D color EBCFET coil packXS Power FMICXS Power turbo manifoldXS Power down pipeMegan Racing exhaustHKS SSQV recirculatedHKS Power filterZ32 MAFWalboro 255 fuel pump

The first run I pulled with 11psi netted me with 222whp & 176wtq



Then we did a couple more runs by increasing the boost level. And finally, I made with 289.7whp @ 6500, 258wtq @ 5800 @ 18 psi



Next mod would be HKS 264/272 cams, hopefully I would be over 300whp!


USsil80
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very nice... but how did she feel driving????

capwred
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what was your air/fuel with those pulls?

JDMSIL80
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A/F is around 11.5-11.9 range, it felt really fast!

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c-rad
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I am jealous. Those are really good numbers and a very good AFR.

boost_boy
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Outstanding! I'm pretty sure you don't know your injector duty cycle, but you know that those things are at their peak. It's time to move on to a bigger injector, but again, great #s.

Dee

nismoplsr
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Wow really great numbers. Specially on a dyno dynamics dyno. These are known to "read low". I read 60 hp lower going from a dynopack to a dynodynamics WHILE having a larger exhaust and running 4 PSI more than on the first dyno.

originalsin
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damn, awesome ****ing setup, im def going to just buy a gt28r

is that chip made to handle increased boost levels or did you have to tweak it?

JDMSIL80
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The stage 3 chipped is mapped up to 17psi, all you need to tweak is the MBC and dial up the boost.
originalsin wrote:damn, awesome ****ing setup, im def going to just buy a gt28r

is that chip made to handle increased boost levels or did you have to tweak it?

originalsin
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watd that run you? and your in the states right?

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c-rad
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originalsin wrote:watd that run you? and your in the states right?
Nah, he's in Canada. Last I heard though, those Horsham chips are expensive. Their site lists the stage III chip at 186GBP which is like $350.

I have been trying to get people to upload their .BIN files to my site ( http://ca18det.escic.com ). So far, only the Aussies have been contributing.

boost_boy
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originalsin wrote:damn, awesome ****ing setup, im def going to just buy a gt28r

is that chip made to handle increased boost levels or did you have to tweak it?
Just so you know, you don't have to fork-out that kind of bread to get tha much power out of a turbo. I got 312.5whp @ 18psi out of a T3/T04B stage 1 blower and they are much cheaper/economical than the gt28r and the likes. The only set back is you'll need to change to a T3 based manifold or at least have a T3 flange fabricated to you stock manifold (that's what I did to run this turbo).

Dee

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c-rad
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boost_boy wrote:Just so you know, you don't have to fork-out that kind of bread to get tha much power out of a turbo. I got 312.5whp @ 18psi out of a T3/T04B stage 1 blower and they are much cheaper/economical than the gt28r and the likes. The only set back is you'll need to change to a T3 based manifold or at least have a T3 flange fabricated to you stock manifold (that's what I did to run this turbo).

Dee
And a custom 02/downpipe and a new oil feed and return line.

JDMSIL80
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Every dyno reads and produces different numbers, you cannot simply say I make more power than you by using horsepower figures taken from different dyno.

Although in most cases, Dynojet would produce at least a 10% higher number than Dynodynamics. There's no dynojet around my town so I can only use this dyno for my future needs.

The most important is how your A/F ratio is, and how much power you gain before and after from using the same dyno.

boost_boy
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JDMSIL80 wrote:Every dyno reads and produces different numbers, you cannot simply say I make more power than you by using horsepower figures taken from different dyno.

Although in most cases, Dynojet would produce at least a 10% higher number than Dynodynamics. There's no dynojet around my town so I can only use this dyno for my future needs.

The most important is how your A/F ratio is, and how much power you gain before and after from using the same dyno.
Listen dude, before you start taking offense or something like that, I wasn't comparing dyno #s, so please pay attention to what you read. I was explaining to "originalsin" that basically there are optional/less expensive turbos (though I think he knew this) that can be used to make that kind of power, but modifications will have to be made. Read, read, read, before you go get all offended and stuff, man. Nobody's trying to down-play your accomplishments and once again, good #s for what you have.

Dee

boost_boy
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c-rad wrote:
And a custom 02/downpipe and a new oil feed and return line.
Regardless, you still can't beat the flexibility. Luckily for me, I make my own stuff. The oil feed and return lines can all be had for under $50, but the downpipe can be as much as $300 (All depends on who's doing it for you).

Dee

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c-rad
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boost_boy wrote:I was explaining to "originalsin" that basically there are optional/less expensive turbos that can be used to make that kind of power, but modifications will have to be made.
If you know where to look, you can get brand new GT28R's for under $700. And for people who don't plan to break the 300whp mark, its nice to have the simplicity of a bolt-on affair. Besides, those old T3/T4's are using fin technology from decades ago. The newer GT series turbos have ridiculous efficiency ratings due to new designs. Not to mention the exceptional transient response of a ball-bearing unit.

Swedish Mike
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You guys should see the difference between Dynojet and Rototest here.

Rototest is a hub dyno and you can never blame spinning tires. This dyno also got a really nice feature, it only save numbers kept for two seconds, no peaks. Only power you can use and power that actually moves the car.The Rototest is also adjusted at the factory, no option to adjust it yourself (like most dyno´s). This gives you real numbers and no happy ones.

Talk about low numbers when you take your car to this dyno... Cool.

/Mike

boost_boy
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Swedish Mike wrote:You guys should see the difference between Dynojet and Rototest here.

Rototest is a hub dyno and you can never blame spinning tires. This dyno also got a really nice feature, it only save numbers kept for two seconds, no peaks. Only power you can use and power that actually moves the car.The Rototest is also adjusted at the factory, no option to adjust it yourself (like most dyno´s). This gives you real numbers and no happy ones.

Talk about low numbers when you take your car to this dyno... Cool.

/Mike
I like this better because I'm pretty sure there are suspect figures in every corner of the globe. Chris, you're right about the T3/T4 blowers in the fact that they are old and there are much more efficient blowers on the market. But given the cost of them, I'd still choose them for my street car, but I can't say that for a serious drag car as you guys will soon see what I have for my drag sentra.

Dee

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float_6969
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Congrats! Did you ever do a run at about 14psi? If so, do you remember what kind of numbers you put down?

JDMSIL80
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No, but I did made a run with 17psi which gave me 280whp and 250tq.

At 14psi, a good guess would be around 250whp and 212tq.
float_6969 wrote:Congrats! Did you ever do a run at about 14psi? If so, do you remember what kind of numbers you put down?

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float_6969
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Awesome thanks!

originalsin
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have any s13 guys modified the stock manifold to accept a t3?

OmarM
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Nice numbers, my setup is pretty much identical except I will be running 550cc injectors. I will most likely throw some cams in there so 300whp+ at 15psi should be attainable. But without cams those are numbers I like to see, cause I know dynamometers read lower than dynojet. It would probably of been about 315-320 on a dynojet. Great job, and nice AFR

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c-rad
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OmarM wrote:But without cams those are numbers I like to see, cause I know dynamometers read lower than dynojet. It would probably of been about 315-320 on a dynojet. Great job, and nice AFR
You do realize a dynojet IS a dynamometer, right? And whatever happened to you coming down here like 2 weeks ago to take your motor to the shop? Thanks for keeping me updated.

JDMSIL80
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I'll be putting in HKS 264int/272ext cams and Sard FPR, hopefully by increasing the fuel pressure the 444cc injectors would still be okay with my setup.

With the cams I'm expecting to break 300whp with even lower boost, will keep you guys posted with the result.
OmarM wrote:Nice numbers, my setup is pretty much identical except I will be running 550cc injectors. I will most likely throw some cams in there so 300whp+ at 15psi should be attainable. But without cams those are numbers I like to see, cause I know dynamometers read lower than dynojet. It would probably of been about 315-320 on a dynojet. Great job, and nice AFR

JDMSIL80
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You're right dynojet is dynamometer. I think he meant to say Dyno Dynamics.
c-rad wrote:
You do realize a dynojet IS a dynamometer, right? And whatever happened to you coming down here like 2 weeks ago to take your motor to the shop? Thanks for keeping me updated.

OmarM
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c-rad wrote:
You do realize a dynojet IS a dynamometer, right? And whatever happened to you coming down here like 2 weeks ago to take your motor to the shop? Thanks for keeping me updated.
Sorry motor is still at home, I finally got around to taking it apart on Tuesday. Its been a crazy couple of weeks for me. But its still in the process. I am just going to take the block to hone, prep, etc. and the crank to make sure its good for std. bearings. Also take the head to get cleaned, resurfaced, and a valve job. But I am going to do it locally. I am going to install the pistons, rods, crank, bearings, etc. etc. I will keep you updated, i think im gonig to paint my block red, like a dark red, since everybody went black, lol. Probably run stock manifold ported.

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c-rad
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OmarM wrote:Sorry motor is still at home, I finally got around to taking it apart on Tuesday. Its been a crazy couple of weeks for me. But its still in the process. I am just going to take the block to hone, prep, etc. and the crank to make sure its good for std. bearings. Also take the head to get cleaned, resurfaced, and a valve job. But I am going to do it locally. I am going to install the pistons, rods, crank, bearings, etc. etc. I will keep you updated, i think im gonig to paint my block red, like a dark red, since everybody went black, lol. Probably run stock manifold ported.
Ahh.... ok then.

dash
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good numbers. That chip gets the job done

c-rad,why not say where to look for under $700 gt28r turbos. That would be useful info.


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