originalsin wrote:damn, awesome ****ing setup, im def going to just buy a gt28r
is that chip made to handle increased boost levels or did you have to tweak it?
Nah, he's in Canada. Last I heard though, those Horsham chips are expensive. Their site lists the stage III chip at 186GBP which is like $350.originalsin wrote:watd that run you? and your in the states right?
Just so you know, you don't have to fork-out that kind of bread to get tha much power out of a turbo. I got 312.5whp @ 18psi out of a T3/T04B stage 1 blower and they are much cheaper/economical than the gt28r and the likes. The only set back is you'll need to change to a T3 based manifold or at least have a T3 flange fabricated to you stock manifold (that's what I did to run this turbo).originalsin wrote:damn, awesome ****ing setup, im def going to just buy a gt28r
is that chip made to handle increased boost levels or did you have to tweak it?
And a custom 02/downpipe and a new oil feed and return line.boost_boy wrote:Just so you know, you don't have to fork-out that kind of bread to get tha much power out of a turbo. I got 312.5whp @ 18psi out of a T3/T04B stage 1 blower and they are much cheaper/economical than the gt28r and the likes. The only set back is you'll need to change to a T3 based manifold or at least have a T3 flange fabricated to you stock manifold (that's what I did to run this turbo).
Dee
Listen dude, before you start taking offense or something like that, I wasn't comparing dyno #s, so please pay attention to what you read. I was explaining to "originalsin" that basically there are optional/less expensive turbos (though I think he knew this) that can be used to make that kind of power, but modifications will have to be made. Read, read, read, before you go get all offended and stuff, man. Nobody's trying to down-play your accomplishments and once again, good #s for what you have.JDMSIL80 wrote:Every dyno reads and produces different numbers, you cannot simply say I make more power than you by using horsepower figures taken from different dyno.
Although in most cases, Dynojet would produce at least a 10% higher number than Dynodynamics. There's no dynojet around my town so I can only use this dyno for my future needs.
The most important is how your A/F ratio is, and how much power you gain before and after from using the same dyno.
Regardless, you still can't beat the flexibility. Luckily for me, I make my own stuff. The oil feed and return lines can all be had for under $50, but the downpipe can be as much as $300 (All depends on who's doing it for you).c-rad wrote:
And a custom 02/downpipe and a new oil feed and return line.
If you know where to look, you can get brand new GT28R's for under $700. And for people who don't plan to break the 300whp mark, its nice to have the simplicity of a bolt-on affair. Besides, those old T3/T4's are using fin technology from decades ago. The newer GT series turbos have ridiculous efficiency ratings due to new designs. Not to mention the exceptional transient response of a ball-bearing unit.boost_boy wrote:I was explaining to "originalsin" that basically there are optional/less expensive turbos that can be used to make that kind of power, but modifications will have to be made.
I like this better because I'm pretty sure there are suspect figures in every corner of the globe. Chris, you're right about the T3/T4 blowers in the fact that they are old and there are much more efficient blowers on the market. But given the cost of them, I'd still choose them for my street car, but I can't say that for a serious drag car as you guys will soon see what I have for my drag sentra.Swedish Mike wrote:You guys should see the difference between Dynojet and Rototest here.
Rototest is a hub dyno and you can never blame spinning tires. This dyno also got a really nice feature, it only save numbers kept for two seconds, no peaks. Only power you can use and power that actually moves the car.The Rototest is also adjusted at the factory, no option to adjust it yourself (like most dyno´s). This gives you real numbers and no happy ones.
Talk about low numbers when you take your car to this dyno... Cool.
/Mike
float_6969 wrote:Congrats! Did you ever do a run at about 14psi? If so, do you remember what kind of numbers you put down?
You do realize a dynojet IS a dynamometer, right? And whatever happened to you coming down here like 2 weeks ago to take your motor to the shop? Thanks for keeping me updated.OmarM wrote:But without cams those are numbers I like to see, cause I know dynamometers read lower than dynojet. It would probably of been about 315-320 on a dynojet. Great job, and nice AFR
OmarM wrote:Nice numbers, my setup is pretty much identical except I will be running 550cc injectors. I will most likely throw some cams in there so 300whp+ at 15psi should be attainable. But without cams those are numbers I like to see, cause I know dynamometers read lower than dynojet. It would probably of been about 315-320 on a dynojet. Great job, and nice AFR
c-rad wrote:
You do realize a dynojet IS a dynamometer, right? And whatever happened to you coming down here like 2 weeks ago to take your motor to the shop? Thanks for keeping me updated.
Sorry motor is still at home, I finally got around to taking it apart on Tuesday. Its been a crazy couple of weeks for me. But its still in the process. I am just going to take the block to hone, prep, etc. and the crank to make sure its good for std. bearings. Also take the head to get cleaned, resurfaced, and a valve job. But I am going to do it locally. I am going to install the pistons, rods, crank, bearings, etc. etc. I will keep you updated, i think im gonig to paint my block red, like a dark red, since everybody went black, lol. Probably run stock manifold ported.c-rad wrote:
You do realize a dynojet IS a dynamometer, right? And whatever happened to you coming down here like 2 weeks ago to take your motor to the shop? Thanks for keeping me updated.
Ahh.... ok then.OmarM wrote:Sorry motor is still at home, I finally got around to taking it apart on Tuesday. Its been a crazy couple of weeks for me. But its still in the process. I am just going to take the block to hone, prep, etc. and the crank to make sure its good for std. bearings. Also take the head to get cleaned, resurfaced, and a valve job. But I am going to do it locally. I am going to install the pistons, rods, crank, bearings, etc. etc. I will keep you updated, i think im gonig to paint my block red, like a dark red, since everybody went black, lol. Probably run stock manifold ported.