Driveshaft question

Post by **Nissan-S14** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

Ok Ill just say this once and for all, because, before I did a whole thread about this issue.

VERY IMPORTANT (IF YOU HAVE A NON-ABS 240 AND YOU PUT IN A J30VLSD, THE ENJUKU ALUMINUM DRIVE SHAFT WILL NOT WORK)

You would have to take it to a driveshaft shop to get it shorten by an 1" then re-balance the shaft.

Post by **Redline240** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

I don't understand why so many people think goin to a one peice aluminum driveshaft is gonna rattle your teeth out...infact it should reduce vibrations...there was a big write up about it in a modified mag awhile back, a tech article when installing a aluminum driveshaft on a dsm...

I got my one peice from driveshaftshop.com and i havn't noticed any difference in vibrations...just goes through the revs quicker...

Redline

Post by **DrifterXRPS13** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

well i put on that bearing and the car feels so much better, there's no more vibration and i love it. when i removed the driveshaft and looked at the old bearing there was nothing left of it. the two metal rings that hold it on the outside just fell off when i took it off, and all that was left was the bearing spinning with a few pieces of rubber here and there.

Post by **Arrow** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

Yeah, I found out that my driveshaft probably isn't the problem and that it is most likely the Carrier Bearing! I looked at it and it has about 1 inch or more of free play in it! So for sure that is one problem, hopefully the only one too...

How long and difficult was the install DrifterXRPS13?? And about how much did it cost. I found a bearing at Advanced Autoparts for $67. Hoping that it is a good price.

Post by **DrifterXRPS13** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

i wish i had an inch of freeplay, mine was worse but that's awesome that you found it for $67, mine was 140ish from carquest...ripoff...well it took about 2-3 hoursfrom start to finish, realistically it should take only 30 minutes or so if you have all the correct tools and what not. You need a lot of WD-40 and soak the nuts and bolts and all that good stuff. it's not very difficult but you'll want a second person helping you out. i held the car up with two jacks right in front of the rear tires and i had a hydraulic jack holding up the rear of the car at the diff. You're gonna have to mark the location of the driveshaft to where it bolts up to the diff and the transmission, take off the bolts that are connected to the diff and unbolt the center support that holds the bearing and the middle of the driveshaft, make sure you have a friend helping you with this because it is pretty heavy. You can slide it out of the transmission with a little force and then proceed to disconnect the two pieces from each other and then this parts the most time consuming...you can either sit there trying to find some sort of socket or tool that will fit the nut that is right before the bearing or you could do the easy thing and take it to sears and have them take it off and put the new bearing in and stake the nut...it was free for me because my brother works there, even with the air tools it took a good 10 minutes to do, that sounds like a lot but if you have the right tools, a manual, and a friend, it should take only 30 minutes to an hour depending on how rusted the bolts are and what not. One more thing your friend will also come in handy for putting the transmission in and out of gear to twist the driveshaft to unbolt everything, that way you don't have to get out from under the car and back under every 30 seconds. sorry for the lengthy response but when i asked how to fixed it i just get some simple response but i gave ya the whole thang. if ya need any more info, let me know

Post by **Arrow** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

Hey thanks a lot!!!

I am actually working on it as I speak... I ran into a problem w/ mine though, I got the driveshaft off and the stupid keyed nut off, then I have to slide off the flange that is just before the bearing. That is where my problem came in. My friend and I weren't able to slide it off! So, since he works for the Air National Guard, there is a machine shop there! Hehe. He is taking it in tomarrow to have them press off the flange and press on the new bearing for me. Once that is done it should only take about 30 min to reassemble. The only thing that I have to do other than that is get some more gear oil for the transmission. When we pulled out the shaft since the car was sitting at an angle b/c I jacked up the front (stupid thinking if you ask me....) some oil leaked out and therfore I need to refill it again... Oh well!

Thanks again for your detailed reply!

Post by **DrifterXRPS13** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

that's awesome that you got it mostly off, but yea that last thing shouldn't be a problem, half hour or so should be enough time to reassemble it. no prob that's what everybody's here for, to help out, hope all gos well for ya, check back in when your done. peace

Post by **Arrow** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

Hey, it is finished!

Well, that is a good and bad thing...I finally got the carrier bearing replaced and everything reassembled. But the vibration that I had thought to have limited to the bearing is still 'sort of' there!!! Before I had a bad rumble / shaking of the entire car at around 16 mph but NO WHERE ELSE. Now I don't have any vibration or rumble anywhere at low speeds, now though I have a slight vibration (little to no rumble or shaking) from about 20mph and up!!!

CAN ANYONE HELP ME!?!?!?!?!?

I hope it isn't anything serious in the rear end....

Oh yeah, and the vibration that I have now seems to be coming form the back of the vehicle, further back then the vibration that I had before I replaced the bearing.........

I am hopelessly lost, confused, and angered by this...

:help

Post by **Nissan-S14** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

You should of listened to me in the first place, replace your driveshaft, its has to do with the wearing on the teeth. Just get the aluminum piece and everything will go away its well worth the money. I had the same problem and it was solved.

Post by **DrifterXRPS13** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

wow that sucks man, i haven't had any problems to date since i replaced my bearing, so i wouldn't know what to tell ya, except that the diff is prob messed up or something. good luck.

Post by **Arrow** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

Well, thanks a lot guys! You have helped me a lot!I am going to get the car jacked up tomarrow and see where the vibration is coming from. I think that it might be from my tires or suspension (or at least I hope, to some extent b/c I need new tires anyway, so if it is them no big loss) and if it is a suspension problem then when I get the car in the air there should be no vibration whatsoever...

I might end up looking into getting a one-piece alumminum driveshaft if that still seems to be the problem.... (there will go ALL of my money... but oh well, it's going to a 'decent' cause)

The only 'good' thing though is that in a month I will not 'need' the car for everyday driving b/c I will be off in college and won't have the car, so I can take my time fixing the problem (I only need to locate it...)

Thanks once again guys, you've been great help!

Post by **Arrow** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

I believe that I have found out what my problem:

When I had the car up on jack stands and got the car 'moving' to about 20 mph (where the vibration starts) the vibration was even worse (most likely due to the lack of load on the drivetrain)

So that eliminated wheels or suspension from the equation.

Then later after going under the car and looking at the driveshaft, I found that the housing for the carrier bearing wasn't completely tight on one side.

On that topic do you guys think that having one side of the housing about 1/4 inch form being completely tigh would cause the vibration that I am experiencing?

And I tried to tighten it as much as I could... I believe that the bolt is sort-of stripped b/c we used an air ratchet to get the bolt started and tight b/c it wouldn't start to thread by itself.So I believe that I would need a new bolt and I would look into checking the chasis and hopefully that hole isn't messed up due to possible crossthreading (I never cross thead it but I believe when my transmission was rebuilt they took the carrier bearing housing out and then they cross thread the bolt trying to get it on and might have put lock tight on it to keep it in there)

Sorry for the long post but I am just wanting to know if this would be a logical plan of action and / or if it could cause the vibration...

Thanks again!

Post by **ricebike** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

ya, that may be it... fix that & post your update!

Post by **DrifterXRPS13** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:46 am

yes i do , it seems like a logical reason. there might just be enough room to wiggle around that's makikng the vibration.

Driveshaft question

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