drag tips / doubble clutching

[scuba_sean]

ok, i only had one chance after i got my 240 to go to the track before it shut down for the winter, so ive done 3 runs, and i wanna kill when i go back. can anyone give me any tips? i think i prettymuch know what im doin, i think. im launching at about 3500rpm (limited slip diff), and im gettin pretty good reaction times (.5-.6). I got 17.4, but i later fond out i had 3 leaky injectors. also, is there any advantage in doubble clutching? it seems like more little things that could screw up goin down the track.

[Lepchitz1]

double clutching is more for down shifting...or saving your synchros. A good tip is to "Go on yellow", which means go on the last yellow. I got like an average .4 reaction time doin this. You want to launch at the beginning of your peak torque range, Depeinding on the temperature of the ground/tires is you will be able to judge on what to rev it to. Hope I helped

[IvanS13]

is there any advantage in doubble clutching?

Dont wanna sound like an ***... but, dont believe everythin you hear in Fast and Furious.

[C-Kwik]

ok, i only had one chance after i got my 240 to go to the track before it shut down for the winter, so ive done 3 runs, and i wanna kill when i go back. can anyone give me any tips? i think i prettymuch know what im doin, i think. im launching at about 3500rpm (limited slip diff), and im gettin pretty good reaction times (.5-.6). I got 17.4, but i later fond out i had 3 leaky injectors. also, is there any advantage in doubble clutching? it seems like more little things that could screw up goin down the track.

Your transmission should have syncros. Double clutching takes longer. You have no need to do it.

[themadscientist]

If you see green you lose. When I go racing I stand at the starting line as soon as racing starts and watch the tree to get a rhythm that I use when it's my turn, it works for me. You can give it all up on the line, consistency will make or break you. Summit and Jegs sell practice trees that can help you fine tune your reaction times.

[C-Kwik]

double clutching is more for down shifting...or saving your synchros. A good tip is to "Go on yellow", which means go on the last yellow. I got like an average .4 reaction time doin this. You want to launch at the beginning of your peak torque range, Depeinding on the temperature of the ground/tires is you will be able to judge on what to rev it to. Hope I helped

.4 isn't necessarily good. Depends on the type of light sequence that is used and how the track configures their numbers. Most tracks use the standard five-tenths light. Basically, each yellow is on for .5 seconds. And .5 seconds would be a perfect light. .4 seconds on this light would be a red light and in a heads up or elimination, you would have lost at this point. Some tracks zero out the lights for th egreen. The last yellow is at 0.5 seconds so that 0.00 is the perfect light. This is rare, but no different from the standard light except how you read the timeslip. 0.4 seconds would be quite slow, or equivalent to a .9 reaction on a five-tenths tree. The last light is the four-tenths light. If you have seen this, yu are likely a professional drag racer. Typically this is reserved for pro-stock and top-fuel dragsters. The light sequence does not go down the yellows. All the yellows will blink and then the green comes. It is quite fast and requires that you react quickly in order to get a good light. .4 seconds in this case is the perfect light.

Reaction time is dependent on many things. Starting at the last yellow is a good place to star since you want to start getting the drivetrain wound up before the light turns green so that when it does, you will trip the light as close to .5 seconds as possible. Doesn't matter if you're not in any kind of an elimination bracket. Reaction time has no effect on the 1/4 mile time itself. To fine tune this, you need to get some practice to get used to the timing of the light. You can either try and learn to figure out exactly when to go, or you can adjust your poistion at the start line. You can either shallow stage or deep stage. For consistency purposes, I would stage the exact same way everytime. Either just as the second staging light comes on(shallow stage), or just as the 1st one goes off(Deep stage). A lot of times if you are consistently leaving the line late, deep staging may help. Keep in mind it does take away a small amount on your trap speed and may also affect your E.T.s. If you really want to learn to time the tree, more than just practicing, I recommend trying elimination brackets where a handicap is used. Especially with slower cars since it will really get you to start to concentrate on your own light. It gets a bit more difficult to time the light if your opponent's light is starting it's sequence just before yours does. But very rewarding when you get the better raction time, and even more if you win.

[scuba_sean]

hey ivan, i dont know if that was even in the F&F, but if it was, that sure as hell isnt where i got it

[scuba_sean]

no offence

[SlowFiveOh]

Dont wanna sound like an ***... but, dont believe everythin you hear in Fast and Furious.

you beat me to it! i was thinking the same thing when i read the title of this thread

[scuba_sean]

why dont you 2 pull your heads out of your asses, and realize that there are people talking about the import world outside the sellout wold of the fatf.

[HachiRoku]

Your transmission should have syncros. Double clutching takes longer. You have no need to do it.

double-clutch lets you downshift without jerking the car though...i double-clutch and downshift fast enough that it doesn't take much time to do.....it's really become 2nd nature for me.

[Nismo_Freak]

I just blip the throttle in between gear shifts and it seems to work fine for me.

[SlowFiveOh]

why dont you 2 pull your heads out of your asses, and realize that there are people talking about the import world outside the sellout wold of the fatf.

how about YOU pull your head out of your *** and realize that its just joking and not even meant towards you before you go bashing other people. its just the internet. ****.

[IvanS13]

I said I dont want to sound like an ***... sorry. Scuba, no offence taken. Double clutching is a technique used to match revs on a down shift, not of upshifting.

[HachiRoku]

but you can double-clutch to match revs on upshifts when you have no synchros, right?

i never really figured out the purpose of double-clutch upshift but i would assume you need to rev match when you upshift if you have no synchros because there's nothing to spin the engine as you go into neutral and then to the next gear.

[Syntax360]

scuba_sean - u talkin about double clutching or power shifting? I thought double clutching was for downshifting as well(?).

[Nismo_Freak]

how about YOU pull your head out of your *** and realize that its just joking and not even meant towards you before you go bashing other people. its just the internet. ****.

Chill guys... any more of this and thread gets locked.

[C-Kwik]

I said I dont want to sound like an ***... sorry. Scuba, no offence taken. Double clutching is a technique used to match revs on a down shift, not of upshifting.

Matching revs is done by pressing the gas pedal. Double clutching is used to match the gears within the transmission. You can use it during any upshift or any downshift. But if you have syncros, there is no need. As far as saving syncros, you are then defeating the whole purpose of having syncros in the first place. It's like having a fast car, only to have it sit in your garage...

[scuba_sean]

sorry there boys, no need to get all antzy in the pantzy. just lettin ya know

[Siddhartha]

ok, double-clutching is used for rev-matching sometimes. Clutch in, neutral, clutch out, rev to match gear, clutch in, shift into gear, clutch out. Like, I'm shifting from 3rd to 2nd in a turn, on the edge of my tires lateral adhesion and don't want the car to jerk when I shift or I will lose grip and slide. Clutch goes in, I shift into neutral, clutch comes out. I rev the engine up enough to match where it would be at the car's speed in second gear. Clutch goes in, I shift into second, clutch comes out. Car won't jump b/c engine speed is acceptable for the given gear and car speed. Double clutching on an upshift is pointless, as whenever you up shift the engine speed decreases and you stop accelerating during the shift. It DOES help synchos, but only if they are already going bad. The main reason it is done, though, is to prevent the car from jumping in the twisties when on the limits of adhesion.

Don't do it in a drag race.

[themadscientist]

I never really got the double clutching thing. I put in the clutch, pull it out of gear, rev the motor, stick it in the next gear on upshifts. I don't get why people hit the clutch twice. I only do that in big trucks

[Siddhartha]

That's where you are supposed to do it, tms. In big trucks. I've HEARD of ppl doing it while road racing, but it seemed slower. I've seen a dumass do it while dragging. He swore it made him faster. He lost every time he raced that night.

[AznRide]

double clutching is more for down shifting...or saving your synchros. A good tip is to "Go on yellow", which means go on the last yellow. I got like an average .4 reaction time doin this. You want to launch at the beginning of your peak torque range, Depeinding on the temperature of the ground/tires is you will be able to judge on what to rev it to. Hope I helped

Hey Lepchitz, are you running with the PROS or what? .4 RT is for Pros only. .500 is the best you can get at a local track. Anyways, Running 17.4, you want to double clutch when you reached 5000 RPM on 2nd gear, and also, on the 3rd gear. I did that and I lowered .25 of a second on my ET. It might helps, it might not. For me, it helped. I didn't have nitrous back then, that's why i doubleclutched on my almost bone stock B16 and ran a 15.75 with full interior, 17" rims and worned out tires (damn camber). Try that, it might help ya.

[AznRide]

ok, double-clutching is used for rev-matching sometimes. Clutch in, neutral, clutch out, rev to match gear, clutch in, shift into gear, clutch out. Like, I'm shifting from 3rd to 2nd in a turn, on the edge of my tires lateral adhesion and don't want the car to jerk when I shift or I will lose grip and slide. Clutch goes in, I shift into neutral, clutch comes out. I rev the engine up enough to match where it would be at the car's speed in second gear. Clutch goes in, I shift into second, clutch comes out. Car won't jump b/c engine speed is acceptable for the given gear and car speed. Double clutching on an upshift is pointless, as whenever you up shift the engine speed decreases and you stop accelerating during the shift. It DOES help synchos, but only if they are already going bad. The main reason it is done, though, is to prevent the car from jumping in the twisties when on the limits of adhesion.

Don't do it in a drag race.

Um, that's POWERSHIFTING, not DOUBLECLUTCHING dude.

Anyways, doubleclutching is that when you are at around...let's say 5000RPM, with the foot on the gas, step on the clutch and release the clutch when you are at redline. If you car is powerful enough, you should get a *little* jump from the competition. You really need to know your car strength to do this. Takes times to try it for best results. Like my last post, I saved .25 of second, doubleclutching twice.

[scuba_sean]

ok, so at 5 grand, i hit the clutch and let the engine climb revs, and while thats happening, i slide it into the next gear, and when it finally hit the 6500 redline, i let it back out? that doesnt make much sense, if im understanding right. it just sounds like youre shifting before redline. please let me know im if wrong, id like to know.

[Nismo_Freak]

That will make you slower... its hard to argue that .25 seconds on a 15 second car is due to "powershifting". Now if it was a 10 second car and they gained .25 seconds then it would be worth nuking your clutch over. Heres what I did to get the best ET out of the 240.

Launch at 3500 - Dump Clutch and Floor It1st Gear -- Redline2nd Gear -- 6300 3rd Gear -- 61004th Gear -- its over

Shift normally but fast...

[AznRide]

UM, I never said that I was "POWERSHIFTING". Your driving technique might not work for others. Plus, why arey ou shifting almost 1,000 RPM short? Just when your turbo kick it to it's max, you have to shift before you can get a total power. Unless "REDLINE" is at 6000 RPM. Every car is different, it's best to test out at the track using all the skills you have.

How can you shift normal, but fast? Why dont' you just say shift as fast as you can?

Anyways, double clutching is really bad on your transmission so don't do it if you have a bad transmission already. But if you are desparate and need to go a lil faster when you are bracket racing, feel free to try it out. If you are ahead of your opponent, just drive normal, and don't let him pass.

I've won every first place trophy (except for one 2nd place, I redlighted by .02 of a sec) so don't tell me that I'm dumb. Trophies in 1 year are 3 (17 secs class - stock motor, 16 sec class stock B16, and 15 Bolt-ons sec class). I never got to really test out my last one because it was a hot day and last season day, so everyone was there, never got to try, but ran my best 13.5 (with 75 shot nitrous, empty interior) first try, then I quit racing that day due to the rediculous temperature. Anyways, enough of me, what about you all?

[C-Kwik]

ok, double-clutching is used for rev-matching sometimes. Clutch in, neutral, clutch out, rev to match gear, clutch in, shift into gear, clutch out. Like, I'm shifting from 3rd to 2nd in a turn, on the edge of my tires lateral adhesion and don't want the car to jerk when I shift or I will lose grip and slide. Clutch goes in, I shift into neutral, clutch comes out. I rev the engine up enough to match where it would be at the car's speed in second gear. Clutch goes in, I shift into second, clutch comes out. Car won't jump b/c engine speed is acceptable for the given gear and car speed. Double clutching on an upshift is pointless, as whenever you up shift the engine speed decreases and you stop accelerating during the shift. It DOES help synchos, but only if they are already going bad. The main reason it is done, though, is to prevent the car from jumping in the twisties when on the limits of adhesion.

Don't do it in a drag race.

If you have syncros you DO NOT need to double clutch. You can heel-toe downshift without double-clutching.

Secondly you should not be heel-toe downshifting in a turn. You should be in the correct gear before the turn. The point of doing it while braking is so that if you do mismatch the rev's even slightly, it will not upset the balance in a lateral motion. It's a whole lot faster to adjust your line slightly, than to catch a slide.

If you have heavily worn or no syncros, then double clutching may be necessary to get the car into gear at all.

[C-Kwik]

Um, that's POWERSHIFTING, not DOUBLECLUTCHING dude.

Anyways, doubleclutching is that when you are at around...let's say 5000RPM, with the foot on the gas, step on the clutch and release the clutch when you are at redline. If you car is powerful enough, you should get a *little* jump from the competition. You really need to know your car strength to do this. Takes times to try it for best results. Like my last post, I saved .25 of second, doubleclutching twice.

Sorry, but that is WAY wrong. Double clutching has nothing to do with the gas pedal. You can double clutch during un upshift or a downshift. During a shift, you press in the clutch, put the car in neutral. Let go of the clutch to at least the point where there is enough contact to get the gear inside the transmission moving so you can engage the dog gear, then push the clutch in again, shift into the gear you want, and release the clutch. The reason it is called doubleclutching is because you press and release the clutch twice during a single shift.

[C-Kwik]

Anyways, double clutching is really bad on your transmission so don't do it if you have a bad transmission already. But if you are desparate and need to go a lil faster when you are bracket racing, feel free to try it out. If you are ahead of your opponent, just drive normal, and don't let him pass.

I've won every first place trophy (except for one 2nd place, I redlighted by .02 of a sec) so don't tell me that I'm dumb. Trophies in 1 year are 3 (17 secs class - stock motor, 16 sec class stock B16, and 15 Bolt-ons sec class). I never got to really test out my last one because it was a hot day and last season day, so everyone was there, never got to try, but ran my best 13.5 (with 75 shot nitrous, empty interior) first try, then I quit racing that day due to the rediculous temperature. Anyways, enough of me, what about you all?

What you've been describing is what many people refer to as powershifting. Basically, holding the gas pedal down while you shift.

Winning races doesn't make you right.

Here is a site that explains it simply...

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/LR/FAQ_clutch.htm