Does anyone make custom switches for 2018 Rogue by left knee?

[Acecool]

I have one slot free - the switches for sport, eco, fuel lid, trunk, heated steering wheel and 2 more I can't think of at the moment... - I'd like to fill it and wire something else in. Does anyone know if anyone makes custom switches that look factory?

[VStar650CL]

Not that I know of, but you can always machine the blank insert neatly to install an aftermarket rocker or pushbutton.

[Acecool]

I'll probably buy a duplicate of one of the buttons that exist and see if I can mill out a slot for an insert in the button to give it a more stock appearance.

[VStar650CL]

The existing buttons are already shaped to fit in the holes, no machining needed. If you want to repurpose one, the '16 and '18 wiring is very similar and you should be able to pull up pinout and wiring diagrams from the '16 FSM here in Nico. If anything doesn't match, post what you need and I can look it up for you in the '18 FSM.

[Acecool]

Yes, I have one space available as shown in the image. I want to fill that.

I wanted to have a custom button with custom text or icon to populate that slot. If no one makes them then I can just buy one of these switches and maybe 3d print a replacement button to fit inside and try to match the finish as much as possible but I was hoping someone already makes them.

So the idea is either 3D print an entire button, or mill out a slot where the original text / wording is to fit an insert which would be as flush as possible - ie 3D printed or made another way - to press into the new slot on the actual toggle.

[VStar650CL]

I don't think any of those silkscreens are recessed, and I believe the only one that isn't a momentary button pulling to ground is the AWD Lock (IIRC that's a rocker). So repurposing any of them should be pretty simple, just take the silkscreen off with some crocus cloth and refinish as needed. Should be plenty available in any JY, with a mating connector. Even the S models at least have gas door and VDC buttons.

[Acecool]

From the images I saw of these, they look pretty large. Is the circuit built in for the toggles ( ie sport, eco, traction control, heated steering wheel )?

Good call on the silk-screen. They are not, but the idea was to take a bit off the top and 3D print something that fits in so it is level, it seems there are easier options.

Does anyone know the part-numbers for these buttons? A rocker would be ideal, so maybe the AWD lock.. going to check it now.

So it is more of a lever rocker, but it doesn't stay in the lock position with the vehicle off. I'll check in the morning if it does stay in the down position with power to it. I'd rather not have to press the button every time I start the car though for what I'm installing.

[VStar650CL]

You can get part numbers by putting your VIN into NissanPartsDeal.com. They have the same database and drawings as Nissan DPiC. There are a lot of ways to make a pushbutton do stuff with some simple circuitry. What are you thinking to drive with it?

[VStar650CL]

The simplest way to make a button do whatever you want is one of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115913699368

If you want the driven device to default to "on", wire it through the NC relay throw and wire the "working power" to battery and not ignition. Standby current with the relay inactive is 1uA, so the board won't run your battery down. Then wire your accessory to Ign or Acc if it draws enough idle current to matter.

[Acecool]

Looking to drive a secondary horn tied in to the steering wheel like I had on my 240sx. The factory horn isn't loud enough and people where I live don't know how to use a 2-lane round-about. They just come over into other lanes without signaling or yielding and the normal horn doesn't seem to be loud enough to let them know they are about to cause an accident and I'd prefer if they didn't hit me. But the option to turn it on / off is useful at night, don't want to wake the neighbors.

That bistable relay option looks like a winner. I wonder if there is a default closed option so I can wire up one of the switches with an indicator built in?

[VStar650CL]

No, you can use the closed (NC) throw on the relay, there's no need for a closed switch. Use the Heated Wheel switch for your base if you want an on-off indicator. I can get you the switch pinout if you need it.

[Acecool]

Yeah, that would be fantastic, thank you. I was able to find the switches on the site so I have the part number.

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/n ... 6fl0a.html
https://parts.nissanusa.com/p/Nissan__R ... 6FL0A.html

Heated Steering Wheel Switch
Part Number: 25193-6FL0A

If anyone else needs it.

[VStar650CL]

You'll still need a connector. Here's the WD and switch layout. If you want the indicator on when the horn is off, hook pin 5 on the switch to the NO relay throw. If you want it on when the horn is on, hook to NC.

18 Rogue Heated SW WD.jpg (30.09 KiB) Viewed 1485 times

18 Rogue Heated SW Switch Pinout.jpg (20.19 KiB) Viewed 1485 times

[VStar650CL]

The connector pigtail kit is available from Nissan, p/n 24008-9DM6A. It's expensive ($30 online), but it's probably the only way to save a junkyard trip.

[VStar650CL]

I just looked at one and the silkscreens aren't silkscreens, they're "lets" for the backlighting. So you can either paint over it or sand it clean and stencil your own symbol. The illumination wires aren't shown on the heater WD, but pin 3 is the PWM (red wire) and pin 4 is ground. You should be able to steal PWM from any of the adjacent switches which have backlights.

[Acecool]

Interesting. I wonder what switch normally goes in that slot. I did a hitch install and some people are saying the T adapter I got will sometimes drain the battery, since it is wired up 24/7 ( I didn't put the fuse into that just yet ) but I am tempted to use the switch slot for the dealer option wire instead. That way tow lights could be turned on and off instead. The horn I could live with it always being louder since I only press when necessary..

A tow light switch may make more sense if the unit I got does drain the battery. I'll have to check ( Curt Manufacturing 56033 Vehicle-Side Custom 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness ).

[VStar650CL]

Four way trailer converters are just two SPDT relays or a set of transistors and diodes which duplicate them. The brake lamps are both NC and the turns/hazards simply interrupt them when active. Running lights are wired straight through. None of that draws any current unless it's miswired or there's an issue with the car, because it's all powered by the lamp circuits. No power to the bulbs, no possible draw. Converters which "flicker" the brake lamps are a different story, those always have semiconductors which can leak electrically if they fail. However, I have several customers using the Curt kits and the Tekonsha equivalents. They're all plain-jane 4-ways.

[VStar650CL]

I wonder what switch normally goes in that slot.

That would be either a Lane Intervention switch (w/o ProPilot) or Steering Assist switch (w/ ProPilot).

FYI, this is how a typical 4-wire converter works. For clarity I used the pin numbers for Bosch Box relays, but obviously they use smaller reed relays since nobody needs 30A (or a lot of noisy clicking) in a lighting circuit. When the brake is off, pin 87 on the lower relays has power through the uppers, so the outputs on pin 30 reflect the state of the car blinkers. When the brake is applied, both 87's lose power but the 87a's get it, so the lower relays modulate the brake signal on-off if the blinker is on. Pretty simple, but you can see that there's noplace for power to leak and cause a draw unless the lights are on when they shouldn't be.

4-Wire Converter.png (14.54 KiB) Viewed 1330 times

[Acecool]

Thank you!

Another question, I am actually thinking of using the fog-light switch for the louder horn... fog-horn right? Then I can use the spare slot for something else.

Does anyone know off hand if the fog-light switch has power going through it ( to trigger a relay in the horn unit to switch it on so the horn switch then activates the louder horn -- the unit has power wire, switched wire, horn / aux wire, speaker wires so that is covered ) so if I turn them on without the lights on, will it trigger?

I'm working on mounting the speaker now and running the wires but I haven't gotten to that part yet.

[VStar650CL]

The fog switch on a Rogue is part of a matrix driven by the BCM, which then tells the IPDM via CAN what to turn on and off. You can see how it works here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/addin ... tches.html

If you don't have or want fog lamps, you could make that work by pirating the fog light output on the IPDM. There's no other method.

[Acecool]

I do have fog-lamps - I want the horn to work even if the fog lamps aren't on as there are some cases where I believe they don't turn on ( ie highbeams means no foglights, or no lights, etc.. ), but the switch is on. So if the BCM tells the lights to turn on or not, then that is fine as long as power gets passed through. I'll look through that guide, thank you!

[VStar650CL]

Power doesn't get passed through unless the fogs are lit. That's basically the purpose of the IPDM, it's a giant glom of addressable relays.

[Acecool]

In a multimeter, a short-circuit can be detected... Does anyone know if there is a stand-alone board which does this? That way I can detect if the switch is on regardless of if the lights are lit?

[VStar650CL]

You can't do that. An ohmmeter works by driving current, and that will affect the pullups inside the BCM (or pulldowns, I'd have to look up the arrangement for a gen2). In fact, if you sent the current in the wrong direction you'd very likely blow the strobe transistors, and then it's bye-bye BCM. Understand that it's a matrix, not a static signal. There is more than one switch on each of the matrix legs, and the BCM strobes them dynamically every 10 milliseconds or so. So you can only read the results the same way the BCM does. Your device would need to watch for the BCM to output the strobe signal on the output leg, then check whether the corresponding input moved on the other leg. There's no static means whatsoever to monitor any of them, reading any individual switch in the matrix must be done dynamically.

[Acecool]

Maybe back to a standalone switch is the best option then :-)

Thank you!

[VStar650CL]

[VStar650CL]

If anyone is handy with solder and wants to make a simple strobe monitor, you can build one with a common CD4011 quad NAND and a few other simple components:

Strobe Monitor.png (8.2 KiB) Viewed 1105 times

This works with high-going strobes like the '13 in the tutorial (as well as the OP's Rogue). For low-going strobes like the '04 in the tutorial, use a CD4001 quad NOR instead of a CD4011, and face the 1N5819 diode the other way. The output state will also be inverted. You can find out which kind of system your ride has in the Body Control section of your FSM under "Combination Switch Reading System".

The way this works, a NAND gate's output only goes low if both inputs are high. If the switch is open, only pin 2 goes high when the BCM strobes. Pin 1 remains low, so the output pin 3 doesn't move. When the switch closes and the strobe passes through it, pins 1-2 both go high and pin 3 goes low in response. When pin 3 goes low it discharges the 10uF capacitor almost instantly through the diode, pulling it to near 0V and causing U1B's output to toggle high, indicating the switch is closed. When the strobe ends and 3 goes high again, the diode blocks and forces the cap to recharge through the 33K resistor. This creates an "RC" delay of about 140 milliseconds before it reaches 6V and "flips" U1B. Since this is much slower than the BCM's strobe rate, as long as strobes keep coming in, U1B never flips and you get a stable "high" signal for as long as the switch is closed. Add a transistor to U1B's output and you can drive a relay with the signal.

[Acecool]

I've been trying to find the firewall passthroughs for wires on my 2018 Rogue but not having much luck. Does anyone have a diagram showing the passthroughs?

If anyone is handy with solder and wants to make a simple strobe monitor, you can build one with a common CD4011 quad NAND and a few other simple components:

Interesting. I have ordered PCBs and populated them in the past, and done various electronics repair. This looks interesting!

[VStar650CL]

The only wiring grommet through the firewall is hidden way back behind the lefthand strut tower. It isn't obvious without removing the battery and airbox. I usually get wires through (on any car) by using a coathanger to pierce the grommet alongside the main bundle, then making a loop in one end of the hanger to twist the wires around, then pulling it back through along with the wires.

[Acecool]

Thank you, that gives me a good place to start. I was looking and couldn't see anything sticking out.