Does anyone make custom switches for 2018 Rogue by left knee?

[Acecool]

I'm trying to find a diagram of that airbox because if I can get that front lid off ( I wonder if it is like the glove-box where it hinges open and then comes off ) then I can get the airbox out without removing the battery.

edit: I took the battery out and the airbox lid does come forward then up - not sure if it has enough room when installed but I'll double check when I put it all back.

[Acecool]

I have the horn unit installed, the speaker mounted, the wires for the speaker ran, a conduit installed for in the dash with 5 wires ( Speaker x 2, power, horn signal, switch wire ) and a string in case I need more. The conduit is way up high in the dash.

I couldn't find my German waterproof car connectors so I did a quick job hooking the wires up to the back of the horn amp. I'm going to order some more of those connectors to make it cleaner.



Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the wires underneath the dashboard with color codes and what they are for?

Second, does anyone know how to remove the trim pieces under the driver-side steering wheel. I'm guessing it is similar to the 1989 240sx where the hood latch has to come off, and then a few more bolts before it comes off, but having a clear picture would be amazing.
Third, Do I have to remove the steering wheel to remove the trim around the steering wheel??? I see two screws but the steering wheel is blocking it. Hopefully I won't have to go this deep, but some clarity would be amazing.


Also, with the doors open and auto accessory off, and the car dark - if I turn the fog light switch on / off the dashboard lights up - so power must be going through that at all times and when switched it tells the BCM to do its thing I guess... meaning that switch could work without any mods. Knowing the colors of those wires lower in the dash and accessible would be a massive help so I can verify.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

[VStar650CL]

The steering column covers are easy-peasy, there may be one screw underneath (I can't recall) but the two beneath the wheel are easily removed by turning the wheel to one side and then the other. Use a plastic prybar to separate the halves, the plastic is pretty soft and won't take kindly to metal tools.

The BCM and IPDM are alive at all times, so the combination switch is always alive with them. The BCM goes into a "low power" mode when the car is shut off, where it samples the combo switch every 60 milliseconds instead of the normal 10mS.

With a few exceptions like the radio wiring, your '18's wiring will be identical to a '16, so you can get the wiring info here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 6%2FPG.pdf

If you run into anything in the '16 diagrams which doesn't jive, I can get you '18 diagrams for specific systems.

[Acecool]

Thank you so much! Will take a look at the car shortly!

[VStar650CL]

[Acecool]

So I found a wire that responds to the horn - unplugging the connectors until the horn didn't sound and then plugging it in and checking each wire. Found one that has 12V constant, but when you press the horn it drops to 0V. I may just have to run a wire from the primary horn in the front ( It seems there is a backup old-style horn hidden in the bumper ) or look at the back of the BCM since that seems easy enough to get access to when the lower panel is removed.

As for the fog-lights, I couldn't really find a switch. A lot of wires have 12V constant, and switching the fog lights on and off didn't seem to do anything. One may have switched ever so slightly, but I'm not sure if anything other than 12v will work on the horn unit for switching. So I may just keep the horn on when the car is on.

[VStar650CL]

The circuits work different ways. The horn uses low-side drive of a relay coil, the relay then drives the horn high-side. You can see how it works on HRN-3 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FHRN.pdf

The relay has power at all times on pin 2, and pin 1 is grounded to the steering column when you press the horn switch. That activates the relay coil, which sends power to the horns from pin 3. On a gen2 the horn relay is located in the underhood Fuse & Relay Box located in front of the IPDM.

As I explained earlier, the fogs don't have a switch that powers anything. The fog switch on the headlight stalk instructs the BCM, which then CAN'-messages the IPDM to turn on the lights. The IPDM powers the lights high-side through an internal P-channel FET transistor (Nissan calls it a "Smart FET") which comes out on pins 51 and 57. So there is no exposed fuse or any other access to the circuit except through the lamp wires. You can see the wiring here on EXL-181...
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2FEXL.pdf
...and the IPDM layout here on PG-70:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 6%2FPG.pdf

[Acecool]

I appreciate all of the help.. Working on older cars electronics is a lot easier.

I'm probably going to just keep the horn wired. I have a conduit running behind my dash which I put in when I started the install in case I needed any additional wires, etc.. to go through so I didn't have to fish a new line through... It has an extra wire in it that I can run to a switch to toggle the horn amp on and off, while the other power wire will go to accessory on, if I choose to wire up a switch in the future. For the horn, I'll just grab it from the horn wire and run that back to the aux-in for that. That way it is on the fused side of the horn circuit.

[VStar650CL]

I appreciate all of the help.. Working on older cars electronics is a lot easier.

True, but I don't think I'd trade the reliability of modern systems for the bad old days. When I grew up 100K was a benchmark, you never saw cars hitting 250K~300K without multiple overhauls like you do today. The tradeoff is that the amount of copper in cars gets smaller every year, and the number of microcontrollers gets larger. That means most of the cars past about 2015 will eventually go to the JY not because they died mechanically, but from either intractable electrical gremlins or the unavailability of obsolete computerized parts. Sad but true.