Does anyone have a list of sr20det ECU part#'s?

[IDriveFords]

Does anyone happen to know where or have a list of all the s13 sr20d3et redtop ECU's and their respective part #'s. I know that the A11-000 G90 tends to be the most popular one but my ECU reads A12-001 C65 and I'm leaning toward it being the wrong ECU. Jim Wolf has a list of all the American ECU part#'s but they don't list any japanese part #'s. I really need help here b/c if its not the ECU thats giving me trouble I'm completely out of ideas.

[SpeedRacer1]

[IDriveFords]

You don't happen to have a list of ECU's by manufacturer part# do you? My stickers are all rubbed off my ECU. I know the most common manufacturer part# is A11-000 G90 for the redtops.

[mrzabala]

Hey Nick. Was wondering if ecu 63 for an automatic will work for the manual? I read it does but would like to know from a guru.

[IDriveFords]

Speed will know better than I but I'm pretty sure it will. I can almost assure you it will. I still need to find out if I even have the right ECU. So if anyone has a manufacturers part# list I would greatly appreciate it.

[SpeedRacer1]

Hey Nick. Was wondering if ecu 63 for an automatic will work for the manual? I read it does but would like to know from a guru.

It will work and run the car. You may experience a high idle that will not drop until the car comes to a full stop. This happens on some of the auto ecu's on manual cars.

Speed will know better than I but I'm pretty sure it will. I can almost assure you it will. I still need to find out if I even have the right ECU. So if anyone has a manufacturers part# list I would greatly appreciate it.

Good news is that its not on the JWT list which means it is most likely Japanese since none of the numbers come close on the list. Its not a CA or RB ECU because they are listed in MEC order. Its not an S14 or blacktop S13 ECU because those are A18. And it isnt most other Nissan ECU's with the same plug shape, there are about 40 or so similar ECU's.

Looking at japanese yahoo auctions i figured its not the following: Z10, YD21, B13, K11, W11, W10, P10, U14, S14, S15, B14 or C23.

It might be from an S13, U13, U12, N14, or N15. The SR versions of these ECU's have the same pinout as the S13 SR ECU.

To do your own research try here, the Japanese usually take great pics of the tags on the ECU's look at the tuned ones for closeups of the boards: http://list1.auctions.yahoo.co...ode=1

Here is an example search of SR20DET ECU's: http://search1.auctions.yahoo....ode=1

I just looked at about 100 JDM Nissan ecu's and none of them really even came close to the number you gave, I would just get another ECU for now.
Modified by SpeedRacer1 at 4:20 PM 4/12/2007

[SpeedRacer1]

I just realized that you said it was the board number. That makes a difference since Hitachi not Nissan made the ECU's. So there are no part numbers available. Also the number on the board IS NOT the same as the number on the sticker on the front.

Though A12 is much more common on the boards of ECU's so there is a much better chance it could be an SR ECU. My sticker says A11-000 G90 but my sticker says A12-001 G90

[mrzabala]

Thanks Nick.

[IDriveFords]

I just realized that you said it was the board number. That makes a difference since Hitachi not Nissan made the ECU's. So there are no part numbers available. Also the number on the board IS NOT the same as the number on the sticker on the front.

Though A12 is much more common on the boards of ECU's so there is a much better chance it could be an SR ECU. My sticker says A11-000 G90 but my sticker says A12-001 G90

Yea I know the # on the sticker is completely different than the # on the board and Hitachi makes most of Nissans electronics. I've already searched down ECU's on ebay and whatnot but those dont help me figure out the manufacturer part#. I do know the processor chip inside this ECU is for a sr20 but whether its FWD or RWD or for an sr20det is still a mystery. I'm in the process of trying to source another ECU. The fact that all the stickers are rubbed off would explain how the wrong ECU would've gotten sent out. I ordered the swap from jdm-online and so far they've been helpful but I waited too long to finish my swap so I know having the wrong ECU probably won't be warrentied. Thnx for the info speed, if you find anything else keep me posted.

[Hijacker]

Speed, where did you find that ilst of ECUs?

[SpeedRacer1]

I made it a few years ago. Since then I have found more S15 ECU's but nobody cares about those.

[Hijacker]

I care. After seeing some ECU confusion popping up here recently, I want to compile a full list of ECU ID codes for the members to see. Maybe even with pics of the cases (I know I can get most S13s and at least one S15 pic in person. The rest I can get off ebay or the net).

I'll shoot you an email and maybe we can brainstorm about this later.

[SpeedRacer1]

I actually have pics of many of them already, email is

One of the problems I ran into was when I realized the Euro Nissans have different numbers than the rest of the world so I gave up. Also the S15 ECU's started getting different numbers based on minor things like whether the car had nav, ac, etc.
Modified by SpeedRacer1 at 9:55 AM 8/17/2007

[DDSPEC]

Speedracer, Was wondering if you had come across an ECU code of 23710 83F10 in your years? I am from NZ and having quite a bit of trouble sorting out what its from (I have a matching loom to go with)... Some else (the wrecker) has written A45414, S14, SR20DET and facelift on it) although it has the smaller ECU pinout (not the big one that goes 1-10, but 1-7 in the first block)... Problem is that every ecu pinout I find for a european S14, jap S14 FL or S15 ecu have their second pin as a Tacho wire but mine doesnt appear to be (it is blue/black in colour and would normally be red/yellow) Would you be able to shed some light on this matter? Cheers,

[SpeedRacer1]

Well the Japanese face lift S14 ECU has the part number 23710-80F00, the euro model is 23710-85F0*, so chances are your ECU is for an NZ, aussie, or other other model (South Africa, etc) S14 with facelift.

The ECU pinout of the late model S14's has the same number of pins as S13 SR's, and S15 SR's. As for the pin that you are refering to with the blue and black wire, my best guess is this, on S14's the color of the tach wire is sometimes yellow/red out of the ECU and blue/black from the F3 plug to the cluster. Perhaps the NZ/Aus model you have just keeps the tach wire blue/black. Does your harness have an F3 plug? Does the color of the wire remain blue/black on the other side of the F3 plug (if you have that side). I will ask my friend about what color the Japanese tach wire is.

Edit: Just a further piece of info. The USDM S14 has the tach wire changing from yellow/red to blue black at the F3 plug. But looking at the Aussie S15 manual the wire color does not do the color change when going through the F4 plug (F4 is the S15's version of the S14's F3). The S15 tach wire starts at the ECU as a blue/orange and ends as a blue/orange at the cluster. Chances are that is why your wire is blue/black, because the wire color does not change when going into the cluster.

Modified by SpeedRacer1 at 7:27 AM 4/28/2007
Modified by SpeedRacer1 at 7:29 AM 4/28/2007

[IDriveFords]

Just to update: it was the wrong ECU as I suspected. Got a #62 ecu from a local party and the car started right up. Only issue I'm having now is the car keeps idle at 1500 rpm and won't drop to the normal 900rpm. I'm currently running open downpipe if that would make a difference (exhaust is on order) and I don't run the car for very long at all. If anyone can help me here I would be greatly obliged. My mods so far are: 255lb/hr pump, Front Mount, enjuku racing cai with apexi filter, hks ssqbv, koyo alum radiator and ngk iridium plugs. The throttle cable is adjusted properly and I played with the IAC screw with little to no change in idle.

[SpeedRacer1]

Sometimes the engine idles somewhat high for a short period of time until the engine warms up.

Try unplugging the IACV connector while it is running and see what happens, it should be the 4 wire connector between the 3rd and 4th intake runners, one of the wires is light blue.

[ajrrka24de]

Sometimes the engine idles somewhat high for a short period of time until the engine warms up.

Try unplugging the IACV connector while it is running and see what happens, it should be the 4 wire connector between the 3rd and 4th intake runners, one of the wires is light blue.

Hey bud , im just having some issues with my car and im wondering if u can help me out . we r trying to make a power fc that apex said is for a blacktop 94-96 (E5 ecu) into a "98" blacktop that came with 62 ECU ( i checked your ecu list and didnt see a 98 with a 62 , saw 91-94 coming with 62 but no 989 ( i dont know i smell something fishy here) since i bought a suppost to 98 blacktop. well the car wont start with the POWER fc , but it does start with the 62 ECU and also start with a E5 , we repin the hardness trying to make the power fc to work but still no powering up the car , car is dead with power fc .i appreciate if someone can help me out , I WANT MY CAR Also is it anyway to tell your motor year? outside of the clip?
Modified by ajrrka24de at 8:05 PM 10/21/2007

[SpeedRacer1]

If the coilpacks havent been swapped for any reason then you can get a good estimate on the month/year the engine was made. The coilpacks have stamps on them that say 91, 92, 93, etc then they have little dots stamped next to the numbers, one for each month the coilpack was at the factory before it was placed in the engine. What you do is go to the last year the coilpack did not recieve 12 dots on it and count the dots. So if for example your engine was made around May 1995 you would have 5 dots on the 95, and 12 dots for the preceeding years. This is just for getting an approximate age.

Now, if you have the VIN number RPS13-######, off the front clip. I can tell you the month and year the engine was made.

If the engine started and ran with 62's and E5's then it is not from 1998. A 1997-1998 ECU for an S13 blacktop is a J4 ECU. If you try to run a 62 or E5 ECU on a 1997-1998 engine the engine will only fire on the FIRST cylinder.

One other way to check the generation of the engine is to look at the parts on it. The 1997-1998 S13 SR20DET blacktops recieved S14 alternators, TPS's, AC pumps, and speed sensors in the transmissions. These either have S14 part numbers on them (alternator/AC pump) or just look totally different than the earlier SR's (TPS/Speed sensor).

[ajrrka24de]

thansk so much bro , that info really hel

If the coilpacks havent been swapped for any reason then you can get a good estimate on the month/year the engine was made. The coilpacks have stamps on them that say 91, 92, 93, etc then they have little dots stamped next to the numbers, one for each month the coilpack was at the factory before it was placed in the engine. What you do is go to the last year the coilpack did not recieve 12 dots on it and count the dots. So if for example your engine was made around May 1995 you would have 5 dots on the 95, and 12 dots for the preceeding years. This is just for getting an approximate age.

Now, if you have the VIN number RPS13-######, off the front clip. I can tell you the month and year the engine was made.

If the engine started and ran with 62's and E5's then it is not from 1998. A 1997-1998 ECU for an S13 blacktop is a J4 ECU. If you try to run a 62 or E5 ECU on a 1997-1998 engine the engine will only fire on the FIRST cylinder.

One other way to check the generation of the engine is to look at the parts on it. The 1997-1998 S13 SR20DET blacktops recieved S14 alternators, TPS's, AC pumps, and speed sensors in the transmissions. These either have S14 part numbers on them (alternator/AC pump) or just look totally different than the earlier SR's (TPS/Speed sensor).

thanks so much bro that info really helped me out . here is the suppost to engine that is installed on my car , took this pic when engine was on frontclip stil. check it out

[SpeedRacer1]

The front clip was made in April 1991. The valve cover may have been swapped, look to see if you have head fins.

[ajrrka24de]

The front clip was made in April 1991. The valve cover may have been swapped, look to see if you have head fins.

I dont understand how is that possible when the tag says 1998 ? and yes tonz of fins . I would like to really confirm this since the shop sold me a "1998" and If i can have some prove i can show to them that the engine is not a 1998 like they told me . kinda start making sence like the 62 ecu that came with it . instead of a J4 if is a 1998.
Modified by ajrrka24de at 6:43 AM 10/24/2007

[SpeedRacer1]

1998 on the VIN tag doesnt mean it was made in 1998, it is refering to the engine size. 1998 cc's, aka 2.0 Liters. If you look closely at that 1998 you can see the cc behind the number.

[ajrrka24de]

Thanks thanks again bro .

1998 on the VIN tag doesnt mean it was made in 1998, it is refering to the engine size. 1998 cc's, aka 2.0 Liters. If you look closely at that 1998 you can see the cc behind the number.

Modified by ajrrka24de at 4:52 AM 10/25/2007

[ajrrka24de]

edited
Modified by ajrrka24de at 4:52 AM 10/25/2007

[SpeedRacer1]

Its called Nissan FAST. All the dealerships have it.

[500hpSilvia]

you bought that from some guys down south right???thay had that posted on craigs list..

[Driftcardotnet]

so what does the X mean at the plant on the bottom right corner of the tag, my USD 240sx says W but my SR clip says X. how i can i figure out the manufacturer year by this metal plate thing? [email protected]

[SpeedRacer1]

The W and X dont mean anything important. This simply tells you which assembly line in Japan the car was manufactured at.

To find out the year you need to give the VIN code. It should either be PS13-****** or RPS13-******. You need to give that number to me or somebody else who has the Nissan parts program.

[Driftcardotnet]

what is your email address? i would like to know how to tell the year/ month of the clip, my clip picture of the rps13-xxxxxx thing is on myspace.com/fortezza so shoot me a message.