diy: S14 Catback for under $50

[GODCHSR]

NOTE: If you don't have a welder or access to one then just go buy an exhaust.

Let's start with the goal here: Make a CatBack exhaust for under $50.

I know that a pre built Catback would look better but that's all it will do. (flame suit on)I am not trying to undermine any of the exhausts sold by vendors... I am simply a DIY type of person and have the tools to make a day out of a project like this. Results posted at the end.

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1- Go to Auto store and buy a 2.25"ID - 2"OD adapter $4 (This will perfectly couple the new exhaust to the old one via weld) Also buy two 2" flanges if you are wanting to make this removable (I just welded mine on)

2- Go to Lowes and buy and 8ft 2 3/8" Fence pipe $18

3- Buy the Apexi N1 'style' muffler off of ebay for $30 shipped (I got one local for $30 but not N1 style) This cheap muffler is the same one on the catback you'd buy off of ebay, so no argument please... I know this is a cheap route.

4- Weld the coupler to the end of the pipe (I hope you have a welder they are great tools. Save up some dough... I got my Hobart for only $350 which is an amazing welder.

5- Cut off the old exhaust. Keep in mind that where you cut will change the angles and lengths of my write up BUT I highly recommend my choice as being the best results and upgradeable to a turbo downpipe if you go turbo later on.I cut mine off right behind the front Cat.

Lay the two pipes side by side now...

6- Make the first bend 38" from the end of the pipe (including coupler) It was approximately 22.5 degrees but as a good rule of thumb if you make the bend slowly and check it against the previous pipe then you will be fine.

7- Make the second bend 48" from the end of the previous bend. This bend can be a various angles depending on the style you want... angled muffler or straight back etc... The less of a bend the greater the angle of the muffler (IE: Apexi N1 has the most extreme angled muffler) I did a 30 degree angle so I could create a better straight back muffler.

Note: like I said I don't have a bender so I created bends by cutting 'scales' about 90% into the tube and bending the scales into each other. The more scales you cut the greater the bend and you will stay closer to original pipe diameter than you would with a cheap pipe bender because you are maintaining pipe size.

8- Tack weld bends (if you do it my way). Get under car and check angles for clearance. If it all fits, weld up the bends. If you had a bender obviously just double check your angles here.

9- Put the new pipe on under the car. I used jack stands and shims to hold the pipe in place while I weld the 2 together.

If you are going to use flanges weld those on and just bolt it up... support the back with a stand.

10- While it's being supported in the proper place go ahead and cut the exhaust hangers off the old pipe and put them on the new pipe. In case you're slower than the average bear follow this: Attch the hangr to they're origial mounting points on the car FIRST.THEN weld them onto the new pipe. Reversing this process would cause alot of pipe vibration while driving.

11- Time for the hard part IMO... Getting the muffler to sit perfectly.It'll take some time to achieve want you want but patience is a virtue... do NOT weld it up until you are satisied... tack tack tackThis icludes the hangers since sagging and stress will change the angles after the factOnce you've created the look you want finish the weld and drop the car. You're done.





I didn't go N1 style, although it would be easier but probably a little louder since I used a slightly more "oval" muffler. The circular ones tend IMO to generate a more popping farting noise where the one I have sounds like it's resonated. If you go with an N1 style I'd recommend a resonator for sure.

End result: I spent less than $50 after tax and got a good sound. IMO it looks good.There was a noticeable power increase in upper RPMs and the pulling power is amazing different. Torque was obviously affected positively.

Any questions just ask and I will clarify to the best of my ability.

[mmaxeyjr]

add a sound clip

[GODCHSR]

Working on it now... It's just from my driveway so it's not what I'd like you to hear since the motor isn't under load.

[GODCHSR]

[simmode1]

Sounds better than alot of ebay exhausts... Kudos.

[GODCHSR]

Thanks!It was something I originally tried on my old VW Jetta but I went side pipe there and it didn't work out so great.Then I did it to my Jeep Wrangler and Cherokee and it sounded AWESOME! The difference there was that I bought a midpipe muffler (cherrybomb actually) and I constantly had people thinking I had done a V8 wap.

Anyway, I'd say this project was favorable to the mod since it could be hit and miss between cars, pipe lengths and muffler choice. I think the cards fell right here and I wouldn't consider buying an Ebay one right now. Ebay $130 shipped... Mine was less than $50. That $80 difference will get me the Crank Pulley and some.

[rico05]

My only fear is that all of those welds will rust. But good price and result! Damn sight cheaper than my exhaust.

[GODCHSR]

Thanks!

The welds will undoubtedly rust without a high heat coat of paint. Even then it's bound to happen eventually.

When I finally broke down on my Jetta and bought a Euro Sport Spec SS exhaust ($230) I had it for 2 years and when I pulled it had rusted out in a few spots. Point is that it's inevitable when you combine heat, moisture and road conditions.You can only delay rust really.

[Fidel_Cashflo]

If you go up to Autozone, pepboys, advance etc.. You can get Duplicolor High heat enamel, and you dont have to prime it or anything, just give it a rough sanding, then spray.

I really like the idea of it, but if you were to have it bent via a tubing bender, wouldnt it have better performance?

[GODCHSR]

Yes it would perform better but at the current power level there would not be a noticeable difference. I'd venture that a dyno would show absolutely no difference below 250-300 whp.

For someone running a high HP motor you'd most likely want a 3" exhaust.

[Uberck]

haha fence pipe i work at lowes i can get that shyt for free but this is dumbass idea. in the winter it'll last about 2 weeks. it'd be a lot smarter to just go to cap or carquest and order up a 14ft section of stainless tubing for like 40 bucks. and next time just use a tube bender, it'll look a lot nicer

[GODCHSR]

haha fence pipe i work at lowes i can get that shyt for free but this is dumbass idea. in the winter it'll last about 2 weeks. it'd be a lot smarter to just go to cap or carquest and order up a 14ft section of stainless tubing for like 40 bucks. and next time just use a tube bender, it'll look a lot nicer

Yes it would look nicer with a tube bender. I think I said that actually.

The preposition is could I build one for under $50... and I did. If he preposition was around around $100 then I could have done the bending and used the pipe you're talking about but then I could have just bought a bolt on kit for $130 with a resonator.

The fence piping will last through the winter with no problem. I should say it did on my 2 Jeeps at least. Those saw a lot of on and offroad abuse and I never had any rust except at the welds WHICH I ended up wire brushing and coating with Rust Convertor... no problem after that.

[blakexcore]

very nice, man.+100 for posting this up,

[GODCHSR]

Thanks! I appreciate the positive feedback... Hopefully it helps some more broke chumps like me looking for a cheap mod.

[rico05]

Hmmm. I have had my SS ProjectSilvia O2 housing, downpipe, testpipe and HKS HiPower catback (about a $1,000 combo) for over 4 years and no rust at all. Quality counts.

[blakexcore]

quick question,do you know if its virtually the same idea for an s13?

[4cefed]

Nice write up. If you want your welds to last, use SS wire. Even though you are using galvanized carbon steel, the stainless steel in the welds won't rust, everything around it will, the exhaust will last longer.

[Uberck]

quick question,do you know if its virtually the same idea for an s13?

ummm, no shyt? just unbolt your stock cat-back, measure it up, and start welding. not rocket science

[GODCHSR]

It'll probably be different lengths and angles but like Uberck said it's pretty much a matter of removing the old one and making a new one.

The only variable is the angles... The s14 tends to have lots of room around the stock exhaust pipes so you can get away with a lot of straight pipe. The s13 may have less forgiveness and require more bends??? Hopefully not.

[blakexcore]

yeah thats what i was talking about, with the bends and such...and the adapter will be the same?

[GODCHSR]

The adapter will be the same BUT I have no clue about the bends. It should vary much though

[dacrew10]

wow man great ideah props!!!

[E7-S14]

Nice.Measurements form bend to bend and angles are a great touch for DIY

[ScrapMetal]

Somebody give this man a custom title.

[Logan76]

you shouldnt weld galvanized, bla bla bla.

Nice Exhaust, the fencepost wont rust due to it being galvanized, whoever said that is a dummie.

[White Comet]

Nice write up. If you want your welds to last, use SS wire. Even though you are using galvanized carbon steel, the stainless steel in the welds won't rust, everything around it will, the exhaust will last longer.

you beat me to it, but i prefer to use ss wire and ss piping for my fab stuff. its pricier but will last longer. my diy manifold came out to under 300 in total cost

[GODCHSR]

you shouldnt weld galvanized, bla bla bla.

Actually I should have mentioned that earlier. It should be noted that welding on galvanized or any primed metal for that matter is a health hazard if you inhale the fumes.

Unfortunately I have gotten my fair share of it and once even became very woozy... that took literally hours to regain full composure.That event was a few years ago when I had a small garage and welded inside a lot.

Now I have a 750 sqft garage with 3 huge doors and a small fan... so it's a far cry from what it use to be.

[Logan76]

Galvanized is much worse for you than aluminized or primed surfaces, You can get heavy metals poisoning from it, I know this first hand because my dad got it from welding galvanized, made him sick as hell.

good ventelation is always a plus, and would help greatly.

[GODCHSR]

Yeah I entirely agree.

I am skeptical about the long term effects. From what I've read (only read) there are no long term effects from minor exposure. BUT for those who work in environments requiring this type of work they have cases of COPD developing.

I don't think I am at risk since I weld maybe 1 or 2 times a month and usually in a well ventilated area.

[breadbox]

one more warning about welding galvanized steel. One guy I met personally saw one guy die from it. He was welding, stood up walked like 10 feet and died.

Be careful ya'll.