DIY: New Suspension Part for S13...

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
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TimTurboZ
Posts: 663
Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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Tho I state this is s DIY I didn't tak alot of pics mainly will explain what I did, anyone with mediocre cutting and drilling skills should be able to get the jist of what I'm saying.

So I assume most of you saw this post zerothread/428512

Reading this post halfway down the page
sicj wrote:cool. surprised this din't come out long ago!

looks like 1.5" x .25~.375 bar stock

I'll make my own. super simple.
confirmed what i already thought, I can make that. So I headed to Home Depot for the metal.

[IMG][/IMG]

I bought 24" and as you can see had plenty left. I suggest buying the 18" peices they sell there that are like 90c cheaper.

I got home unbolted the stock braces and marked my bar with green tape to cut my steel to equal length. I then laid the stock brace ontop of my newly cut steel and drilled a hole through the center of the hole on the stock brace.

I spun the piece around and drilled a hole in the other side.

Repeat this step to have a matching pair.

Then I went to Ace hardware and got longer length M8x1.25 bolts (to bolt into the chassis, and go through the subframe brace and steel piece) also picked up lock washers, and nuts.

4 Bolts, 2 washers, 2 nuts= around $5

I went home and installed

I had to loosen the 17mm nut going between the subframe bracket and subframe spacers (I have Powered BY Max Collar spacers BTW) After loosening the nut it allowed the bracket to lower so I could fit the bolt and steel between the bracket and a hard rubber peice directly above it.

oh to answer another thing
johngriff wrote:
If you are going to make your own, just make sure you choose your material carefully. We thought about using barstock, but decided against it because it didn't fit our maximized specifications.

But you have to figure that your time is worth something, sourcing material, cutting, measuring, fabricating etc etc... we are pricing this inline so that its easier for you to get it in the mail, and install it quickly.
sicj wrote:well it's cheaper for you guys to get a sheet and water jet 20+ pieces per sheet, than to get bar stock. That's understandable.

Anyone can get a 2 ft length of bar stock in similar demensions for no more than $10. But your right a lot of people aren't mechanically inclined to fabricate...

I like what you got and the nice laser etch/ing is sweet too!
johngriff wrote:Again, the bar stock is still not the most effective way, just because of the way this works. There is some science behind this, and I am willing to take the pepsi challenge against a home fab any time.

:-)
Not sure if these steel slabs are considered bar stock, but they are pretty legit in there strength, and what I agreed with my friend about this on is that home made braces have to be better than stock so John's product may be better but I'm sure this is a decent upgrade.

I havn't driven my car yet nor do I really have a great feel for the car (just swapped on coilovers) So I can't provide feedback. But for my $10 spent I don't care if I notice a difference. It looks cool...

Any questions feel free to ask I'll try my best to answer accurately

Tim


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TimTurboZ
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Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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Heres bigger photo's


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TimTurboZ
Posts: 663
Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:59 pm
Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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I know I know New exhaust next month, and I know my cars dirty

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240sxvaj
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i never thought of this.

thanks for the thread.

duffman1278
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Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!

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I was going to do this as well.

I mean I don't fully understand how changing the materials will make such a significant change in the engineering design and functionality.

Great Write up!

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S13k
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Car: Mazda miata 99 NB
Nissan 240sx 91 s13

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i bet you that guy was pretty mad when you said you were gunna make your own, but this is nice i like it. you should of painted them

MastaYu
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Car: 92 Nissan 240SX SE HB

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^

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TimTurboZ
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Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
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They already came painted black (should have painted the ends I cut black so It doesn't rust tho...)

I was quoting someone else I never told John I was going to make my own but I'm sure he'll be less than pleased by me posting this. Then again this is like the Pepsi challenge he mentioned. Except I'm not trying to compete.
duffman1278 wrote:I was going to do this as well.

I mean I don't fully understand how changing the materials will make such a significant change in the engineering design and functionality.

Great Write up!
1st: Thanks I wish I took more pics but I was sweating bullets in my garage cutting with a hacksaw lol.

Honestly the subframe bolts to the underside of the car I don't see how this could help anything. Especially if you have solid subframe spacers because then there is literally no play between the subframe and the underbody of the car but I figured it's cheap and I had the spare time.


GreGS15
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Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 7:14 am

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good job....

way to do the pepsi challenge. Send some off for s13Teddy to test!! LOL

The only thing I can think of is material hardness, or if he forged or strengthened his or something. Regardless looks like a win!


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Didderson
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX FB
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With solid bushings or even what you have like aluminum spacers, don't expect to feel ANY difference. Pretty close to useless product imo because the majority of the bracing is taken care of by the subframe bushings. These are probably only installed for keeping debris from getting caught and snagged on the subframe.

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TimTurboZ
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Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
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^^^^ I basically said the same thing above I did it for fun and for a DIY

duffman1278
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When are you going to drive so you can post up the results?

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TimTurboZ
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Car: 95 S14 w/RBXX... 65' Mustang GT
Location: Sacramento, CA

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Mabye after work Tomorrow (today lol) My dad of all people realized what this part is suppose to help with. The subframe normally is attached to the chassis by rubber bushings. Thus it can move a little back and forth oppose of the chassis. The brace holds it from going back and forth. Hence aluminium collar (like I have) or solid aluminium bushings help/remove this play so a stock 240 would benefit somewhat, possibly even help ppl like me with the collars (barely) from having it move back and forth. If you have solid tho I see no benefit from this mod. Unless you want to be sure it is held there tight.

Well I'll let you know if I feel anything. I definitely did when I added my collars (my powered by max were $50 plus a small shipping charge around $60 total) So I'd recommend to all you 240 owners without them to pick up a set they are in easy install took me hour and a half because I had to redo a few steps. Could easily be done in 45 minutes and you definitely see an improvement


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