Digital RPM Activated Window Switch N3210 Intellitronix

[N/A Q45]

Anyone have any luck with this brand? The one I got is junk, comes on and off when it feels like, at idle it will read 600-700 then still at idle say 4600 and a few other numbers. Just a heads up don't buy one.

[Q451990]

And here I was thinking it would roll down your windows at a certain RPM... had to google it

[N/A Q45]

Lol well you could have it do that. Just hook a relay up to the window switch and the window switch .

[N/A Q45]

Wow after waiting to get another switch that is spose to be working. Same they suck!

[qship96]

In your case,most likely operator error or inability to read and follow directions.

[N/A Q45]

Not likely noship^
Had to call summit racing and they knew more then the tech guys at intellitronix- so far now this one is working. I'll see how long it will last.

[Infinitiguy19]

Not sure if what your saying is true. That would be like having a issue with a Nissan. And when the tech calls Nissan they are not as helpful as the local Auto Zone.

[N/A Q45]

Trust me by the time they got back to me it was pretty useless anyways. The 'tech' guy at intellitronix didn't even know that they can be set from 0rpm.. (they say 2k-9900 for them) but you can set it from 0rpm and he had noooo idea that they could do that. .. he told me as long as it had enough voltage to turn on that's all it needed. . That was the only thing I could think of that could cause it to malfunction because I had the + hooked up to one of my widebands +in. I called summit racing told the guy what I thought might be causing it but the other tech guy said there's no way as long as it turned on. The summit tech guy starts laughing lol said that more or less I might be right. So I gave it its +wire from the relay that turns on the fuel pump and it seems to be working for now.

[Turbon8er]

speaking from years of 12v/24v experience... ALWAYS keep Sensitive electronics like that on separate circuits, Power and Grounds. I've seen some weird stuff happen with signal feedback and ground loops, which is probably what you had going on. You may already be aware, but make sure to Ground, directly to Clean metal (wire brush or sandpaper is your best friend here) using a ring terminal, again keeping all Grounds separate.

you would be amazed at some of the ridiculous hack jobs i've had to fix, where people "knew" what they were doing, especially Electrical engineers. They are almost the worst.

Post pics of your setup!!! I'm really interested to see what you got going on!!

PS- i'd move that Positive wire to another source besides the fuel pump... that's a headache waiting to happen. You can grab the main power harness right under the dash going to the column. Just put an inline FUSE!! I don't remember color, but a Multimeter will.

[N/A Q45]

Couldn't agree more^ like I said I thought that might have been the problem but their tech guy really doesn't know left from right lol.
I only used the +12 to the fuel pump that turns on the relay, it has a 340lph pump in it so I ran some good think wire from the battery (it's in the trunk for traction reasons) to the relay, and then to obviously the fuel pump. The only reason I wired it from there was just to see if it helped cause I know that it could get all the power it wanted, and I grounded it with all the ecu grounds I added onto the ecu, most people don't seem to understand that even the stock ecu/not just the engine needs to be grounded better. I don't know where I want to mount the switch though, I'm thinking glove box because it's soo dam bright for night time driving.

And yeah I'll take some pics later, I also re-wired the coils as they were only getting 13.59v as opposed to the 14.26+ they are getting now and better grounded them.
Should help them quite a bit I'd guess?

[N/A Q45]

speaking from years of 12v/24v experience... ALWAYS keep Sensitive electronics like that on separate circuits, Power and Grounds. I've seen some weird stuff happen with signal feedback and ground loops, which is probably what you had going on. You may already be aware, but make sure to Ground, directly to Clean metal (wire brush or sandpaper is your best friend here) using a ring terminal, again keeping all Grounds separate.

you would be amazed at some of the ridiculous hack jobs i've had to fix, where people "knew" what they were doing, especially Electrical engineers. They are almost the worst.

Post pics of your setup!!! I'm really interested to see what you got going on!!

PS- i'd move that Positive wire to another source besides the fuel pump... that's a headache waiting to happen. You can grab the main power harness right under the dash going to the column. Just put an inline FUSE!! I don't remember color, but a Multimeter will.

Well that was short lived. This thing still doesn't work, it will say on longer and If I hook it up to where I had it before it starts to malfunction in a few seconds, have it hooked up to a relay right from the main + source upfront it works longer but after a few minutes same old s***. And the ground couldn't get any better.
There has too be something, I can't see getting two s*** switchs in a row.
Tried uploading some pics.. all I can say is Photobucket belongs in a dam bucket-


http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/NAQ45 ... c.jpg.html

http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/NAQ45 ... 0.jpg.html

[N/A Q45]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93qhw4b ... ata_player

[Turbon8er]

where do you have each wire going?
Red-
Black-
Gray-
Blue-

their website is horrible.. no links to the product manuals. looks like they haven't left circa-1996 web site development. lame

[N/A Q45]

I was finally able to talk to the 'tech guy' today, told him to look at my video on YouTube he didn't seem to impressed about my title lol but that's what they get.

He was saying that maybe it is getting bad readings from the tach signal and that's why they both don't work, so I asked him " so how does that explain it going off when it is showing the correct rpm" f***.. a few uhhhhhs and uummmms later he said I need to try it on one of my coils grounds and then it will be 1/8 the actual rpm, he says if that somehow makes it work (?) Then he will have to design a board just for me.. I really, really doubt there's much difference from the Qs tach signal and most other normal cars. I'm pretty dam sure they just sent me two garbage switches-

[N/A Q45]

where do you have each wire going?
Red-
Black-
Gray-
Blue-

their website is horrible.. no links to the product manuals. looks like they haven't left circa-1996 web site development. lame

Red- from a relay right from the main power supply.
Black- its own clean ground
Grey- tach signal
Blue- to a relay

Their website is about as unprofessional as how they are with handling a problem-

[Turbon8er]

Red- from a relay right from the main power supply.
Black- its own clean ground
Grey- tach signal
Blue- to a relay

Their website is about as unprofessional as how they are with handling a problem-

where did you grab the tach signal? from the ECU wire going to the dash or engine bay? what color is your ecu wire?

reading about the company and it's history, i think they want positive customer relationships and to produce quality equipment, but i think they are underfunded for serious support, as compared to a company like AEM. It's pretty cool that the guy even mentioned making a specific board for you, but i think you're right... this engine isn't so far different from any other, the product should work.

I'm betting on needing a different tach signal wire. (If it has a manual) Does it specify a square wave for tach?

electronics are the coolest, most frustrating things in the world... kinda like vajay-jays

[N/A Q45]

Red- from a relay right from the main power supply.
Black- its own clean ground
Grey- tach signal
Blue- to a relay

Their website is about as unprofessional as how they are with handling a problem-

where did you grab the tach signal? from the ECU wire going to the dash or engine bay? what color is your ecu wire?

reading about the company and it's history, i think they want positive customer relationships and to produce quality equipment, but i think they are underfunded for serious support, as compared to a company like AEM. It's pretty cool that the guy even mentioned making a specific board for you, but i think you're right... this engine isn't so far different from any other, the product should work.

I'm betting on needing a different tach signal wire. (If it has a manual) Does it specify a square wave for tach?

electronics are the coolest, most frustrating things in the world... kinda like vajay-jays

Lol yeah electronics can be good and bad, cough cough. .. (obd2) cough.

But ya it just says hook it up to your tach signal wire in my case.

Just tried the coil thing he suggested. . Like I thought, that was a waste of time didn't even come close to being stable, and it never read any lower then 1200rpm when the car was at a idle..

I have it hooked up to the black and green wire on the ecu for the tach signal, haven't tried the one in the engine bay, I seen it there by the abs juction of brake lines. I figured it would and should be the same as the one on the ecu?

[IThaJ0kaI]

A lot of people on the V8 forums say that the gr/bl wire on the ecu doesn't provide a correct tach signal even using a normal tach. Most of the guys have been using the br/yl wire for the coil relays in 4 cyl mode and it working. So maybe if you hook the window switch to one of those wires you may get an accurate signal?

[QUOTE=hotshot768;11289]after trying all other ways, my friend gave me his old msd tach driver to try and it works!. So for everyone wondering, you do have to use a tach adaptor on the VH. The signal wire you use is the ECCS 12 switched for the coil relays on either side of motor( its Brown with yellow stripe wire). you have to cut the wire rather than splice. Also for Autometer gauges when doing this you set the tach to 4cyl. mode. ill make a how to on here with pics this evening.[/QUOTE]

[N/A Q45]

A lot of people on the V8 forums say that the gr/bl wire on the ecu doesn't provide a correct tach signal even using a normal tach. Most of the guys have been using the br/yl wire for the coil relays in 4 cyl mode and it working. So maybe if you hook the window switch to one of those wires you may get an accurate signal?

after trying all other ways, my friend gave me his old msd tach driver to try and it works!. So for everyone wondering, you do have to use a tach adaptor on the VH. The signal wire you use is the ECCS 12 switched for the coil relays on either side of motor( its Brown with yellow stripe wire). you have to cut the wire rather than splice. Also for Autometer gauges when doing this you set the tach to 4cyl. mode. ill make a how to on here with pics this evening.

Thank you- going to give that a try in a few minutes! Just got back off the phone with their tech guy and they are going to send me another one..

I could understand what you're saying for the idle problem but it will also read the exact same rpm as the tach when it is spose to be ON ( say 2400rpm) and it will just go out after about 10-15min while still showing an accurate tach reading. . The tech guy still was saying he has noooo idea why it is doing that and he has never heard of it before from one switch let alone two.

Still going to try what you suggested, much appreciated.

[N/A Q45]

Trying this dam image thing again.

But either way that wire that was suggested didn't work. And I have full access to that connection as I made the grounds better and got rid of the stock power supply and added some good think gauge wire. And that I could get a great connection to the positive lead for the coils but it didn't work for this switch.

[IThaJ0kaI]

Not quite sure thats the same wire he was referring to. Here is the link directly to the thread, he has pictures of the exact process he went through.

http://www.v8nissans.com/forums/showthr ... r-Tach-Fix!!!!

[N/A Q45]

I don't use that wire for the coils anymore as I think it is undersized and when I removed it and checked it out it was shot, really bad Oxidation, (I don't want to even start on how bad/small the ground wires were) so I ran some 6-8 gauge wire from a relay right off the main power supply and to the coils. Gained a whole .6ish-v but I think that's alot especially for the coils under full demand.

Either way though, I looked in my fsm just to verify that the br/y wire is all the same connection from the left bank too the right, and that it turns into the coils + feed wire.

So I probed the back of the #2cyl coil pack into that wire with no luck, so I tried right at my relay and still no luck.

Thanks for the link, checked it out and it was the right wire I was tapping into I believe.?
If you look in the fsm it shows from what I seen that that wire in that link is the same as that b/w wire you can see in my picture. Correct me if I am wrong?

[N/A Q45]

That's what it looked like before I taped it up nice .

[Turbon8er]

a power wire can only flow (to the component) as much current as the smallest restriction allows, ie- the Pin going into the coil. I would almost bet you're not going to gain any actual voltage to the inside of the coil using a 8ga over using, say a 12ga, in this instance. I think the 8ga is overkill with no real benefit. The factory wire is probably 16ga. And if the entire valvecover is insulated from the head by rubber gaskets (including the rubber seated washers under the bolts), then wouldn't it make since that a better ground could be had by going directly to the intake or head?

just some observation.

i wish i could help with the tach wire, but i just haven't messed with it yet. I'm seriously considering buying one of these switches to install myself and find out. Probably next week since almost all of my VC parts are here.

[Turbon8er]

That's what it looked like before I taped it up nice .

put the tape down, lol. Use HEATSHRINK. Tape will always come undone with the heat, which is super dangerous on a power wire, the heatshrink will last forever, and it looks much more 'factory finished'.

sorry i'm a critic on that stuff.

[N/A Q45]

a power wire can only flow (to the component) as much current as the smallest restriction allows, ie- the Pin going into the coil. I would almost bet you're not going to gain any actual voltage to the inside of the coil using a 8ga over using, say a 12ga, in this instance. I think the 8ga is overkill with no real benefit. The factory wire is probably 16ga. And if the entire valvecover is insulated from the head by rubber gaskets (including the rubber seated washers under the bolts), then wouldn't it make since that a better ground could be had by going directly to the intake or head?

just some observation.

i wish i could help with the tach wire, but i just haven't messed with it yet. I'm seriously considering buying one of these switches to install myself and find out. Probably next week since almost all of my VC parts are here.

My next step is to re-wire the pins once I get some time.
And I understand what you're saying about the valve cover not being grounded stock lol. I've hot solid washers to keep the valve cover from leaking until I buy new valve cover gaskets but even then I will still keep the solid washers so it is kind of grounded by those and I have one 8 gauge wire running from the valve cover to the chassis as of right now and will be adding another one in time

I did notice the car starts up quicker now then it did before as well.

[N/A Q45]

That's what it looked like before I taped it up nice .

put the tape down, lol. Use HEATSHRINK. Tape will always come undone with the heat, which is super dangerous on a power wire, the heatshrink will last forever, and it looks much more 'factory finished'.

sorry i'm a critic on that stuff.

Ya I've got some heatshrink that I was actually going to use but I'm not 100% done with thw wiring and I didn't want to have to cut it off to re-pin the coils which should be fun..

Good idea either way though good point.

[Turbon8er]

Ya I've got some heatshrink that I was actually going to use but I'm not 100% done with thw wiring and I didn't want to have to cut it off to re-pin the coils which should be fun..

Good idea either way though good point.

re-pinning!?... um, "I don't think so, Tim."




lol jk ..but seriously. Slow down for a minute. That would be a serious PITA with time better spent on real performance, if that's what you're after. I''m afraid to tell you that it would be pointless, because i have the feeling you're the type to take that as a challenge, lmao. But in all fairness, it would be pointless. And probably break something and have to buy the same thing that was working fine in the first place. You're talking 20 year old plastic under the hood. s***'s brittle dawg. Good grounds and connections, decent gauge wire... you're set. Tidy up, move on.


So the red 8ga wire in your pic is actually a ground? If so, that should help some, so i can see that improving start-up.


My driver's side VC has a leak now, so i ordered OEM VC gaskets from ebay. $43 bucks shipped for both sides (minus the washers). I did some price comparing on several different brands and package inclusions (whether or not it came with the rubber-seated washers) and i think the OEM did pretty good for all these years, so one more round should be fine for a while. The washers are stupid expensive to buy individually, but the Victor reinz set for the G20 or altima (same washer) has 11 showing in the part picture for like $15, so a few sets of those (36, if all yours need replacing) would work, IF they really include 11. I'm gonna look into it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FACTORY-OEM ... 72&vxp=mtr

[N/A Q45]

Ya I've got some heatshrink that I was actually going to use but I'm not 100% done with thw wiring and I didn't want to have to cut it off to re-pin the coils which should be fun..

Good idea either way though good point.

re-pinning!?... um, "I don't think so, Tim."




lol jk ..but seriously. Slow down for a minute. That would be a serious PITA with time better spent on real performance, if that's what you're after. I''m afraid to tell you that it would be pointless, because i have the feeling you're the type to take that as a challenge, lmao. But in all fairness, it would be pointless. And probably break something and have to buy the same thing that was working fine in the first place. You're talking 20 year old plastic under the hood. s***'s brittle dawg. Good grounds and connections, decent gauge wire... you're set. Tidy up, move on.


So the red 8ga wire in your pic is actually a ground? If so, that should help some, so i can see that improving start-up.


My driver's side VC has a leak now, so i ordered OEM VC gaskets from ebay. $43 bucks shipped for both sides (minus the washers). I did some price comparing on several different brands and package inclusions (whether or not it came with the rubber-seated washers) and i think the OEM did pretty good for all these years, so one more round should be fine for a while. The washers are stupid expensive to buy individually, but the Victor reinz set for the G20 or altima (same washer) has 11 showing in the part picture for like $15, so a few sets of those (36, if all yours need replacing) would work, IF they really include 11. I'm gonna look into it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FACTORY-OEM ... 72&vxp=mtr

Lol I'm still going to re-pin them, no point in doing something half way I think, if you seen just how bad the wires look on this thing inside you would probably want to re-pin them as well, they're real bad..

You can't seen the ground wire I have from the vc to the chassis in the picture, that big red one is for the + feed to the coils and you can see how I grounded the coils to the vc, all the surfaces that have contact with the bolt or vc are clean so it's getting a lot better than stock would be my guess.

Why waste so much time and $ looking for the rubber and steel washers when you can just pick up some thick steel washers for cheap, my exhaust header washers on my 240sx are a perfect fit and hold the vc down properly so you get no leaks

My valve covers were leaking and then I replaced the rubber washers with the thick steel ones and it was good to go.

[N/A Q45]

Still am going to get new ones though, and that price looks pretty good on ebay, probably going to order those ones unless they're sold out lol.