DEI 545t auto headlight system

[crayb]

Hey guys, the headlight on/off thing is really a downer to me. My $14,000 Hyundai Accent has auto headlights for goodness sakes. After researching this issue I have read on many other forums that this kit will give me exactly what I want.

Anyone install this or have any experience with it?

Ray

[philipa_240sx]

I saw your post in the Altima forum asking this.

I have not heard of anyone installing this DEI 545T in a Rogue... at least not this forum.

Curiously, DEI does not list the 545T on their website, I checked all their product lines and there is no mention of it anywhere. Makes me wonder if it's been discontinued?

Anyway, the headlamp system in the Rogue is fairly straightforward. Any competent shop (ie car alarm installer) should be able to install this for you.

[philipa_240sx]

Curiously, DEI does not list the 545T on their website, I checked all their product lines and there is no mention of it anywhere. Makes me wonder if it's been discontinued?

I stand corrected. DEI has the 545T part listed in their online store:

https://www.directedstore.com/...DA_SE

The 545T also offers a couple of neat features:- Daytime Running Light (negates the purpose of automatic headlights).- Headlights ON while windshield wipers are operating.

This might be very useful for some Rogue owners. I will add this thread to the FAQ.

[Elton Noway]

I stand corrected. DEI has the 545T part listed in their online store:

https://www.directedstore.com/...DA_SE

The 545T also offers a couple of neat features:- Daytime Running Light (negates the purpose of automatic headlights).- Headlights ON while windshield wipers are operating.

This might be very useful for some Rogue owners. I will add this thread to the FAQ.

Hey philipa... thanks for the link and reseach on the additional features. The lack of auto headlights on the Rogue has always bugged me. The DEI 545t looks like a good solution, does the job (and more), and is reasonably priced. I willing to give it a shot! In fact... I just purchased it on-line 5 minutes ago.

As soon as I get it I'll take photos of the kit as received and will also dphotograph and document the installation. Then again... if someone else buys it before me and wants to document the experience... please feel free.

BW... Although $79.00 wasn't going to stop me from buying it I decided to shop around and see if I could find a better price. Hows $29.00 sound?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ...oduct

[crayb]

Just ordered mine as well. May get a radio install shop to put it in unless it's very, very basic.

Don't even know where the headlight wiring is.........

Ray

[Pescakl1]

If you have to plug your system on the headlights' wiring, you may have to remove the front bumper to remove the headlights to get some space.It is not a complicated task, a little bit time consuming and usually scares the wife .If you have to work close to the circuit breakers, you will have to remove the air intake (easy, a 2 minute job) and play with the relays and CB boxes: It is a little bit harder as the wires are shorts so you cannot move them as much as you want.

Have fun and let us know how it turns out.

[Elton Noway]

If you have to plug your system on the headlights' wiring, you may have to remove the front bumper to remove the headlights to get some space.It is not a complicated task, a little bit time consuming and usually scares the wife . [snip]

Have fun and let us know how it turns out.

Well... if I have to remove the front bumper to complete the install I won't be posting pics or detailed instructions as quickly as I thought. I had hoped this would be an install I could knock out in one afternoon. My background is in electronics and I've done "extensive" electrical work in both home and aviation electrical re-wiring so the wiring does not raise any concerns for me.I've also done my share of auto restorations so the mechanical aspect is of no concern... but if I have to dismantle the car to access the wiring and circuit panels then I'll have to plan more time for the install ( a full weekend maybe) which means I won't be posting the photos and instructions as quickly as I had hoped.

FYI: I got order confirmation from Amazon that the order will not be delivered until July 18th so I certainly won't be doing it in the next couple weeks.

Just ordered mine as well... [snip]

Ray

Hmmm... very interesting. When I purchased mine off of Amazon, on July 4th,for $29.90... it said ... In Stock, Sold by: Amazon.com, LLC ... Free Shipping ( because the order total was over $25.00)

In checking Amazon today July 6th, it says $29.77 In Stock, Ships from and sold by Beach Audio, $8.68 Shipping and Handling bringing the total to $38.45.

Granted todays price (total sale) is only $8.55 more than I paid and is still a whole lot cheaper than the List price of $80.00 ... but..., if anyone else is considering purchasing this kit you may want to wait a week or two to see if Amazon gets the items back in stock to save the 8 bucks.
Modified by Elton Noway at 8:04 AM 7/6/2009

[Pescakl1]

Well... if I have to remove the front bumper to complete the install I won't be posting pics or detailed instructions as quickly as I thought. I had hoped this would be an install I could knock out in one afternoon. My background is in electronics and I've done "extensive" electrical work in both home and aviation electrical re-wiring so the wiring does not raise any concerns for me.I've also done my share of auto restorations so the mechanical aspect is of no concern... but if I have to dismantle the car to access the wiring and circuit panels then I'll have to plan more time for the install ( a full weekend maybe) which means I won't be posting the photos and instructions as quickly as I had hoped.

FYI: I got order confirmation from Amazon that the order will not be delivered until July 18th so I certainly won't be doing it in the next couple weeks.

Before saying more stupid things on it, I decided to click on the link.

Hopefully for you, it seems to be the second mounting option for this device, as you will have a black box, two relays and fuses to install. This should be feasible by only removing the air intake to get access to the car circuit breakers and find a place to install everything nearby.The other part may be more challenging if you want it done OEM style: Installation of the switch and light sensor: You will have to play with the console to hide as much as possible the wires and may be use one of the free spot available on the bottom left (beside the VSA button) to install the switch (maybe choose a better looking one than the ugly one provided).The last challenge would be to run these two pairs of wires through the firewall to connect them to the electronic unit.

A reviewer on Amazon installed it on a 2001 Taurus in a few hours.

Have fun... and plenty of pictures please.

[crayb]

Googing DEI 545t and reading some of the posts about how others have installed their systems, doesn't appear that it is too difficult. I'm thinking the wiring we will need to tap is in the steering column area (hopefully) since the light switch is on the turn signal stalk.

Anyone know if there is an online source for the wiring schematic for Nissan vehicles? Owning a Hyundai I have access to the Hyundai service center to get any of the repair info I need, very helpful and free.

Ray

[Pescakl1]

You could start by looking here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Rogue/

If you want the front page, it is the fwd.pdf file.I believe you will find most of the useful information in the PG.pdf file.

Hope this help.

[Elton Noway]

BTW... Although $79.00 wasn't going to stop me from buying it I decided to shop around and see if I could find a better price. Hows $29.00 sound?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ...oduct

Sorry for responding to my own post... but thought there might be a member in this forum on the fence about getting the DEI 545t. As per my earlier post I was all excited about finding one on Amazon for only $29.00 Guess I should have checked eBay first.

Looks like this guy has sold several of them... New in the box for $20.99

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...84537

BTW...I received mine from Amazon today. Nice kit, although the instructions are limited at best. From the literature:

o Automatic (on/off) headlight activation system triggered by Electronic Photo-Cell that automatically sense darkness (NOTE: System requires 5 seconds of darkness to turn headlights on and 30 seconds of continuous light to turn them off thus eliminating "flutter".) o Headlights are automatically activated when the windshield Wipers are activated. Lights will turn off 30 seconds after wipers are turned off. o Includes the option of enabling Daylight Running Lamps with Ignition On for additional safety

o Headlights can be optionally activated by use of alarm trigger (activating or deactivating security system)

o Adjustable Turn-Off Delay feature for safety (between 1 and 150 seconds elapsed time) thus allowing headlights to light your path as you leave or approach your vehicle for added safety. Kit includes Control Module, Photo-Cell, Two Relays, By-Pass Switch and wiring harnesses.
Modified by Elton Noway at 11:03 PM 7/16/2009

[philipa_240sx]

Very good find Elton!

Re: Routing wires through the firewall

BTW if you look at the Audio section in the FAQ, there is a post about subwoofers. There are some good pictures describing how to remove the air intake & filter to gain access to wiring harness that passes through the firewall. This is good place to route any wiring from the battery in the engine compartment to any of your accessories.

zerothread/322282

[lou from ny]

hey guys,i just got the dei545t and am wondering, there are 3 ways to wire this thing 1. standard nite light mode2. safe light mode3. legi-lite mode

which one is the one i want for - Daytime Running Lights and Headlights ON while windshield wipers are operating?

i understand the wipers one requires cutting into the wiper input wires. does this mean i want choice 3? it's how i see it, but i'd rather asak.thanks!lou

[Elton Noway]

hey guys,i just got the dei545t and am wondering, there are 3 ways to wire this thing 1. standard nite light mode2. safe light mode3. legi-lite mode

which one is the one i want for - Daytime Running Lights and Headlights ON while windshield wipers are operating?

i understand the wipers one requires cutting into the wiper input wires. does this mean i want choice 3? it's how i see it, but i'd rather asak.thanks!lou

Hi Lou... Like I said in an earlier post, the instructions leave a lot to be desired. I'm afraid NONE of the 3 options will give you what you said you want: (i.e., "Daytime Running Lights –and- Headlights ON while windshield wipers are operating".)

Here’s the deal... The Daytime Running Lights feature is an updated modification that DEI added to the original kit. When the original kit was first introduced it DID NOT include Daytime Running Lights. Unfortunately the re-write of the owners guide did a very poor job of describing the new modification and how it interfaces with the original features.

Considering your list: 1. standard nite light mode2. safe light mode3. legi-lite mode

You can have Number 1, "or" number 2, "or" number 3… individually Or... you can have Number 1 “and” Number 3 together... but not with Number 2.

Here's the deal. (Actually its pretty simple once you consider the options) The two features of the original kit (which is also included in the current kits like you have) are Number 1 and 3.1) Nite Lite Mode - Automatic lights On/Off activated by the photocell at dusk and dawn3) Legi-Lite Mode - "Headlights On" when you activate the wipers.

HOWEVER!... The newly added feature 2) Safe-Lite Mode - "Daytime Running Lights" will turns on the headlights whenever you turn on the ignition. Therefore... the lights are on all the time regardless if its light or dark outside and/or if you have your wipers on or off. In other words the Daytime Running Lights negates the other two features.

A little more confusion... The Daytime Running Lights feature only activates the headlights. Period.. no other vehicle lights. Whereas the photo cell (Safe Lite) and wiper on feature (Legi-Lite) activates the headlights "and" the parking lights. So... if you install the kit with Daytime Running Lights feature enabled, only the headlights will come on when you start the car but parking lights will still come on if activated by the photo cell, and/or if you turn on the windshield wipers. In other words the closest configuration you can end up with ("if you wire it for Daytime Running Lights") is to have the Parking Lights come on when the windshield wipers are operating because the headlights will already be on. Whew!

NOTE: Be aware the 545T default mode, as it comes out of the box, is with Daytime Running Lights feature enabled! The good news (depending on how you look at it) is DTE gives the installer the option of deactivating the Daytime Running Lights and reverting back to the original design of headlights automatically on and off with the photocell operation and/or headlights on with wipers. To “deactivate” the Daytime Running Lights you only need to slide off the small access door on the top of the control module. (where the Nite-Lite adjustment potentiometer is located.) Under the cover you will find a red wire loop secured to the circuit board at both ends by a drop of silicone adhesive. Simply cut the red wire loop! Bingo… no more Daytime Running Lights. Heres a pic.

Okay… now I know none of this is probably what you wanted to hear. Me either. However, once I discovered this, I came up with a work-around (you may or may not like it). I purchased another DEI 545T kit! Yep… I'll be installing two DEI 545T kits in my Rogue. Since the guy on eBay is selling the kits shipped for $21 bucks... I figured what the heck.

First and foremost, rather than use my headlights for Daytime Running Lights (and thus having to replace headlamp bulbs more often)… I plan on using my fog lights for the Daytime Running Lights.

I’ll install one kit, (cutting the wire and killing the Daytime Running light feature) and hook it up to my headlights following the instructions. In this way my headlights and parking lights will go on and off automatically at dusk and dawn and/or will come on automatically if I activate the wipers. With the other kit, I’ll leave the Daytime Running Light feature enabled (won’t cut the wire) and will simply hook it up per the instructions to the fog lights instead of the headlights. In this way I end up with the system operating the way I want and it only cost me $42 bucks total. Considering the kit originally cost $79 I figure I’m ahead of the game. I see the guy on ebay has 8 more kits for sale. FYI... I paid for mine on Monday and received it today (Thursday)... Brand new and got it in 4 days. A nice transaction. Pleasantly surpised!

[mlmcgahee]

Elton, any update on the install for this unit. I ordered one from the ebay guy and got it today. It looks complicated.....

[crayb]

I had my local car audio/alarm shop look at the kit and my wiring and they told me they could install for $100.00 and be done in 3 hours. I ONLY want the photo cell operation to turn the lights on/off, no wipers and no DRL's, I can control those myself.

Will be scheduling an appointment later in the week... busy busy busy...

Ray

[Elton Noway]

Elton, any update on the install for this unit. I ordered one from the ebay guy and got it today. It looks complicated.....

Well... I'm afraid I had a couple personal issues come up that have taken precedence over the luxury of having time to install this lighting kit.

Actually its not that complicated... what makes it appear more complicated than it is are the "limited" instructions. FACT: If all aftermarket electronic devices came with such vague instructions I doubt there wouldn't be much of a market for such things. As indcated by the reply from crayb... if his alarm shop is willing to install it for only $100 bucks it can't be too complicated.

Here's the net:

Obviously the plastic connectors on the ends of the small wire harness, the photocell and the switch, all plug into the control module.

The wiring of the two large relays are the easiest to explain. Look at all the wires exiting the relay assembly. The plastic connector on the end of the smaller bundle of wires connects to the control module. This only leaves the four "Heavy" wires. These four wires are Heavy Gauge because they will carry the current of your lighting circuits. For this reason when attached these heavier wires to your vehicles wiring they must be secure! Soldering (if spliced into a circuit) would be ideal but good quality electrical splicing conectors will also work. NOTE: What you don't want to do is simply strip and twist any of these heavy gauge wires into an electrical circuit and just wrap with electrical tape.

o The Heavy Brown wire goes to Ground. I usually find a screw or bolt already in the vehicle that is screwed to the frame, firewall or some other good electrical ground.

o The Heavy Violet wire gets connected to constant 12V+ power source (not an ignition-on source)

o The Heavy Blue Wire taps into your Rogues parking light wire circuit.

o The Heavy Green Wire taps into your Rogues headlight wiring circuit.

These three diagrams address the wiring alternatives of the Heavy Brown and Green wire. Per the Rogues maintenance manual it appears ours uses 12V switched for parking and headlights so we'd use the top diagram. (someone please jump in an correct me if the Rogue is not 12V switched)



With the remaining bundle of smaller gauge wires Red, Orange, Black, Blue w White Stripe, Yellow, Green and Violet... o Red goes to a constant 12V power sourceo Black goes to ground.o Yellow goes to a +12V switched ignition inputo Violet +12V switched wiper circuit. (Voltage present when wipers are on) NOTE: If wipers on is a -12V circuit then you use the Green wire instead. (only one wire / Violet or green get connected to the wiper circuit, the other is not used.)The trickiest part to understand is if you elect to wire up the security system feature. (i.e., your vehicle can activate the lights when arming and disarming the security system.) NOTE: You don't have to wire in this feature or any other feature like the lights on with wipers if you don't want to)o Orange wire gets connected to a security "ground-when-armed" circuit.o The Blue with White Stripe wire is for connection to an auxiliary RF Channel output of the security system (I'm not sure the Rogue has one)

The only cautionary advice I can give:1) Unhook the vehicle battery before attempting to splice into any wiring (it would be a bummer to activate the airbags) 2) If when connecting the Heavy relay wires to the Rogue you find you have to extend them (add additional lengths of wire) make sure you use the same gauge wire (or heavier) You wouldn't want to use a smaller gauge wire since they carry the current of your headlight system.

As for taping into the vehicle wiring, (for the Heavy Gauge Relay Wires) you'll need to penetrate the firewall to access the headlight wiring system. I plan to accessing the engine compartment via these great directions provided by SquiggyFreud (thanks to philipa_240sx for pointing me in the direction of that thread

Per SquiggyFreud:The air box needs to come out.Pull the battery, remove the 4 screws on the battery plate this will give you some room to get the air box out.Loosen the hose clamp on the box, there are 2 more screws, up top on the right and one next to the battery plate. then you can jiggle the box out. The rubber grommet for the factory harness is now exposed (As seen in this photo)Poke a hole in the grommet and feed your wires through



I'm hoping I will be able to accomplish all the wiring of the control unit (smaller gauge wire bundle) from the control module inside the passenger compartment, via access to wires in the steering column leading off the wiper and headlight switches.

Sorry... thats all I have right now. Hopefully I'll be able to get to the installation sooner than later.

[crayb]

Great, informative write up Elton, Thanks.

I have a question though.

Does all the relays, control module get located inside the cabin of the car (under the dash) or will some of it be located in the engine bay and some under the dash? I know the photocell will mount on the dash top.

I want this feature desperately... but I'm very afraid of frying my new car's electrical system. The alarm shop is licensed/bonded but still have my fears.. I park in a large garage at the hospital I work and have to switch the lights on and off when entering/ exiting the garage and entering/ exiting the vehicle PITB.

Again Thanks a million.

Ray

[lou from ny]

elton,wow what a great source of info, THANKS!!!

one silly question i can't figure out....what's with the toggle switch they provide? since everything is either hard wired, or on photocell, i don't really need it right? isn't it used to turn the magic box on & off? it seems like for my purposes, since i wouldn''t want/need to do that, i'd simply not use it?

one question for everyone else....where did you mount the photocell (the gizmo that senses the amount of light and turns the lights on when dark)

thanks again!!!lou

[mlmcgahee]

Thanks for the reply and great write up Elton, but like several others I'd rather have a shop do the wiring. Knowing my luck I'd mess something up.

Mike

[crayb]

Lou, the photocell would have to be placed on the dash. In my other cars with automatic headlights the sensor (photocell) is on the dash near the defrost outlets.

This would give it a true sense of whether to turn on the lights or not as the winshield is not tinted and the photocell would have an unobstructed view of the true outdoor light.

Ray

[lou from ny]

thanks cray, exactly what i was thinking. i still wanted to double check. my van has it's factory sensor there as well. now to see what nissan will charge to install it. (the darn "void your warranty" BS)

more tomorrow if i can get a first service appointment....

[Elton Noway]

Does all the relays, control module get located inside the cabin of the car (under the dash) or will some of it be located in the engine bay and some under the dash? I know the photocell will mount on the dash top.

Hi Ray... actually you can mount the relays either place. The advantage of mounting them in the engine bay is having the heavier gauge wire closer to the headlight wiring and thus fewer wire splices, if not eliminating them altogether. However, the wires in the kit are so short its highly unlikely you could cleanly route the wires and still access both the headlight and parking light circuits. That said, I plan on mounting everything inside the passenger cabin. While the relays are very durable, the engine bay can be a harsh environment. I figure mounting them inside the passenger cabin will only serve to prolong their lifespan. The downside of installing items inside the cabin is you have to stand on your head (or be a contortionist) to mount everything out of the way up under the dash area. (Tough on an old mans back)

I park in a large garage at the hospital I work and have to switch the lights on and off when entering/ exiting the garage and entering/ exiting the vehicle PITB.

Then this kit is a must have for you. FYI: A point of confusion is the feature referred to as Nite-Lite mode. Some people think it has to do with lighting your way as you enter or exit the vehicle. Actually the Nite-Lite mode is simply the automatic "Lights on - Lights off" being operated via the photocell (auto-on when it gets dark, auto-off when it gets light). However when the Nite-Lite feature is tied into the vehicles security system you get the ability of having the headlights come on when you arm or disarm the security system and thus lighting up your garage or pathway. (A potentiometer in the control module lets you adjust the length of time they will stay on.) NOTE: When the headlights are activated in this manner (via the security system), the vehicles parking lights will start flash. They will flash until the headlights go off after your preset time frame. The idea is the flashing parking lights is just to let you know the DEI 545 is operating your vehicles lights and you didn't simply walk away leaving your headlights turned on.

one silly question i can't figure out....what's with the toggle switch they provide? since everything is either hard wired, or on photocell, i don't really need it right? isn't it used to turn the magic box on & off? it seems like for my purposes, since i wouldn''t want/need to do that, i'd simply not use it?

Howdy Lou, Yep I agree it sure seems that way! However, in reality, the switch doesn't completely take the magic box (control module) out of the system. Also, believe it or not there is a valid reason for having the switch! (More on the reason later. )

First... to explain the switch. You are correct, the On/Off switch "disables" the photocell. If the switch is placed in the "on" position the parking lights and headlights "will not" come on when the ignition is turned on, nor will they come on if the photo cell senses its dark outside, nor will they come on to light your pathway in the dark as you enter or exit the vehicle when tied into the security system. But... the headlights "will" still come on when the windshield wipers are turned on. In a nut shell... the On/off switch takes the entire control system out of the picture with the exception of headlights coming on with the wipers. This is because "headlights on with wipers" is currently a law in many states. If it's not in your state, you don't need to wire the module into the wiper circuit. (Since it's primarily a law surrounding a safety measure I figure I'm going to install it since it won't hurt anything.) When the on/off switch is placed in the off position the system returns to normal function with the headlights going on and off automatically (dusk to dawn) and/or when the security system is armed or disarmed.

So back to your original question... Why do we need the on/off switch? Why would you want to turn off the features of this neat system... especially after going through the expense of purchasing it and the pain of having it installed?

Answer: Drive-In movie theaters. Driving through night time Christmas lighting displays. Coming home late and pulling up to your house and you don't want your wife to see the headlights. Parking in lovers lane during the wintertime and you need the heater running but don't want to advertise your location. Surveillance work, etc. NET: Without the on/off switch your headlights would always come on when it got dark. Although rare, there will be times when you really don't want your headlights on after dark.

Here are some more pictures of the kit in case anyone else is interested.



Also... the Installation Instructions included with the kit are so small you need a magnifying glass to read them. Here are links to the documents in PDF file format you can download and print as big as you want. (Your installer will appreciate it)

Installation Instructions:http://www.directeddealers.com...e.pdf

Owners Guide:http://www.directeddealers.com...e.pdf
Modified by Elton Noway at 10:27 PM 7/21/2009

[lou from ny]

OK an update...

i found a shop that works on aftermarket parts for Mercedes, BMW, Lexus and all of the other "high end cars" the guy is willing to install the kit for $75, but I'm not sure which lights to use.

after turning them all on & off, I'm thinking I'd want to use the lowest ones in the front for the daytime running lights as the first knob switch only turns on the highest lamps for the turn signals and the other switch uses the xenon lamps and i certainly don't need those for daytime driving.

some input please....thanks everyone....lou

[philipa_240sx]

Why do we need the on/off switch? Why would you want to turn off the features of this neat system... especially after going through the expense of purchasing it and the pain of having it installed?

If you are really creative, it may be possible to use the turn signal from the Altima which has the 'auto' headlight position then use this feature for the 545t switch.

Note: All of the Nissan turn/wiper stalks should be interchangeable.

[philipa_240sx]

Note: All of the Nissan turn/wiper stalks should be interchangeable.

I should actually try this. I still have the OEM turn signal from my '03 Altima when I did the fog light upgrade. It has the same markings as the Rogue... but with the additional 'auto' position on the headlamp switch.

[Elton Noway]

I should actually try this. I still have the OEM turn signal from my '03 Altima when I did the fog light upgrade. It has the same markings as the Rogue... but with the additional 'auto' position on the headlamp switch.

You actually piqued my interest with your original suggestion of using the Altima turn signal stalk. I was thinking that would be a cool mod in addition to making the DEI 545t appear, or at least funtion as if factory installeded. I went looking for pictures of the stalk so I would have an idea of what they look like but didn't have any luck finging a detailed pic showing the actual controls. I was then thinking of browsing a couple used car lots to check them out and evaluate the potential.

I found thesepics: ... this first one is from a 1999 Altima ... but it freaks me out because it appears you'd need to pull the steering wheel to replace it:

And this one from a 2007 thru 2009 Altima. This one shows a little more detail and but not enugh to compare it to the stalk in my Rogue. The good news is the installation of this style looks to be a little more plug and play in that it straddles the steering column. However if installing it requires pulling the steering wheel ... count me out. I don't want to do anything that may interfere with the proper operataion of the airbag. Is this straddle design similar to your 03 stalk?

Now that I know you have one ... is there any chance you could post some pics showing detail of the control surfaces? If pulling the wheel is not required... would you consider swapping the stalk to be a tricky labor intensive undertaking... or pretty straight forward project?
Modified by Elton Noway at 9:42 AM 7/26/2009

[philipa_240sx]

The turn signal lever simply plugs into the steering column. It's a simple amtter of removing the 2 halves of the steering column cover and unplugging the old unit.

Unfortunately I did some digging in the FSM and the switches are wired in a matrix which are then scanned by the BCM. I don't think it will be possible to break the 'auto' switch out separately and use it for the 545t. :-(

If you want, you can have my old turn signal/headlamp switch to experiment. Just pay me for the shipping costs.

[Elton Noway]

Unfortunately I did some digging in the FSM and the switches are wired in a matrix which are then scanned by the BCM. I don't think it will be possible to break the 'auto' switch out separately and use it for the 545t. :-(

If you want, you can have my old turn signal/headlamp switch to experiment. Just pay me for the shipping costs.

Wow Philipa... thanks for the offer, that's very generous.

I'd take you up on it if it also had the Fog Light switch. However, since you stated you yanked it when you installed fog lights then I'm guessing its safe to assume your old 03 stalk doesn't have a switch for the fog lights.

At first I was thinking I'd be willing to see if I could hack the matrix and wire the auto switch in the stalk to an external circuit. But, without the fog light switch its more experimental work than I want to sign up for.

I don't know if your a fan of eBay... but you might want to consider selling your old stalk there. Altima stalks are going for $40-$75 each.

http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_n...ltima+ ... &_osacat=0

[lou from ny]

so gents, which set of lights did you use for the daytime running lights? hopefully, i'll bring it in for work either this week or next.thanks!lou