I am fairly happy with the Bose systems midrange and highs and the bass is ok at lower volume levels but it almost seems like the sub turns itself off if you get the volume up very high so I figured if I can find the factory subwoofer, (in the back somewhere I'm assuming?) I should be able to hook up a aftermarket sub and amp to the same wiring correct?

Thanks!

It's actually on top of the spare tire, under the removable floor panels in the rear.

you should do a little more research about aftermarket car audio. Bose, JBL, etc... any of these factory units are not plug and play systems. you don't just plug up a more powerful amp or a different speaker and it just works. Now if you wanted to add an amp and woofer you could do that and their are a few ways to do that.

alot of the work that you may want done i'll be able to guide you or someone else might be able to but any audio system in the SL equipped Rogues are going to take a nice amount of work and some pretty pennies. Most Audio shops are not Bose freindly, as most of them need to be completely rewired to accomplish any install. I'll be posting some more about my install in the upcoming weeks.

On another car I have, which is not a Bose setup -- I was able to add something called a Basslink, which has it's own amplifier, which you would take power from the battery and get the signals from all 4 front speakers, or like I did, just from the two rear speakers, and it added a lot of bass. I suppose technically, you could take the signal from the wires coming into existing bass module and disconnect it.

On the Rogue though, I'm plenty satisfied with the bass as it is. I don't really turn the radio up much, content is more important to me, and with the satellite radio and the ability to play MP3s, I have a lot to listen to

I have an enclosure with a couple ten's and an amp that wouldn't take up to much room in the back.
Any reason I couldn't use the existing wiring going to the bose sub to hook up my amp and sub? Are the audio leads going to it standard low level sub outs? I also don't know if it uses a standard 12v remote to power on the amp?

I think those are the two main things I need to know in order to get it to work....too bad the head unit doesn't have a seperate sub volume controll

summary= a good line out converter should work just fine for adding subs only.

I on the other hand will be doing a full install keeping the factory head unit using the Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2 for my signal processing and all Powerbass equipment.

Thanks, so I take it the audio leads going to the bose amp are high level hence the need for a loc if I use my aftermarket amp?

Do you know which one of the wires is the rem, if any?


Modified by dawson76 at 5:45 AM 3/18/2008

Well, I'm guessing that the two larger gauge wires are the ground (black) and positive (blue) while the yellow and brown wires are carrying the audio signal and I would be suprised if I'm wrong about those four.

That just leaves the green and black wires with silver dashes. If one of those are the rem then what could the other be for I wonder?

For some reason the FSM wire colors don't match yours...

If you look at the connector from the harness side (clip facing up as shown), the pin numbers are marked as follows:

2 | 4 | 6
----------
1 | 3 | 5

1 = Brn = Audio signal - (line level)
2 = Yel = Audio Signal + (line level)
3 = Braided (black) = Shield for audio signal
4 = Grn = Amp ON Signal (12V switched)
5 = Black = Ground
6 = Black with silver stripe? Same as blue in your photo = Battery +12V (fused at 10A)

The audio signal is not amplified, but appears to be a balanced line level output.

I'm no audio expert so I can't comment on what will work. A LOC may be OK if it's adjustable for the low level Bose outputs. There are also Bose specific LOCs:

http://www.logjamelectronics.com/sounlocbosli.html

Good luck!

Modified by philipa_240sx at 7:01 PM 3/25/2008

My wife however does not want to lose that much trunk space so I removed it after seeing if it would work

Quote, originally posted by SquiggyFreud »

Stopped by the local car audio shop today...he said no need for a LOC if you splice in b4 the amp...nonetheless, I have ordered an MTX re-Q bass enhancer, waiting for it to come in. Gonna have a 400 watt amp on my single 12", but am going to install a dual amp kit in case I need to add on down the road. Still have not found a hole in the firewall to run the battery lead, hoping I will not have to drill

I used the stock sub wiring on mine and it worked fine...it's a little undersized for high current draw but I think it will work fine for moderate listening levels. I guess you would need a larger gauge wire if you like to blast your eardrums off all the time but thats not me.

Quote, originally posted by SquiggyFreud »

Still have not found a hole in the firewall to run the battery lead, hoping I will not have to drill

And I doubt that you will. I think Nissan has a habbit of only supporting the wire harnesses. And since the Rogue doesn't have a manual transmission option there isn't a hole for that either.

I am in the same situation, getting 30 amps or so into the cabin. You can get to the firewall by removing a lot of the air intake tubing from the driver side of the engine compartment.

I have an appointment with a local auto stereo installer to have them do it - about $120. That is including 40 feet of wire (20 each of black and red) number 8, fuse blocks and all of the usual looming, wire ties, grommets, etc.

I did find the Bose amp I will assume is for all of the speakers in the back end while I had it torn apart.

I installed a dual amp kit so if I ever decide to throw some components in there, it should be pretty easy.

Sounds pretty good now, The radio sound quality sucks, I actually use the tuner on MP3 player for radio. CD's sound good too.

Modified by SquiggyFreud at 2:28 PM 4/12/2008

I got a 10 Rockford Fosgate Shallow Sub, the P3 running 280 watts to it. How do you guys like it? It doesn't take up any of my trunk space.

You have to remove the bracking for the Bose sub and then the plastic piece on the right, you have to cut it in half. So I still have the Bose sub in there along with the new one.

The total height for the sub is 4.5" and I used 1/2" HD Partical board. Total Dimension for the box is:

4.5x14x(28top and 31bottom)

It took me about a week to build at work, and the top cover, I just matched the dimensions of the existing cover, with the notches cut out to lay on top flush and a hold cut out for the woofer.

It sounds nice. Hope that helps