Damned Short Crank Snout!!!

[Jimefam]

Yes i Searched.

I pulled off my oil pump to replace it today and find an 8mm crank snout. So now I'm depressed but anyway, I know what needs to be done to fix that but what is involved in getting this fixed. Some people I've talked to make it seem as though I have to rebuild the motor since i'm taking it apart but thats like 2k more. Others say just take the crank have the collar pressed on put everything back together a thats it! $200 that will cost me more or less. Which is it? What will I have to replace to get this fixed I want to drive the damn car already!

[Yellow4g63]

Desperation party of one? If your going to take it apart might as well just fix everything else and do a little upgrading. RB means not on the road right away lol.

[BoostFab]

RB = Replace a Boatload.

[HxC_Nismo]

if you dont fix it now your going to be paying more in the future. to install the crank collar you going to have to buy main bearings, rod bearings, main studs, oil pump gasket, oil pump if you uprgrading or oem, then you need the crank collar and then take it to a machine shop and have them install it and since its there you mind as well get your crank polished and balanced. so you might be around $400-$900est. its your choice if you want to upgrade the bottom end i would since its already all apart but thats me.

[craz4240]

You could always leave the crank collar for now and stay out of the high revs,get the car running stock first then do the rest.

[BoostFab]

it's FUD (fear uncertainty doubt), don't you get it ?

just dont past redline and you all will be ok.

[Jimefam]

Well I already had purchased the n1 oil pump and a complete gasket kit so thats out of the way. I'm looking at another $500 if I dont build the motor and another 2k if I do right? I dont plan and using the car for auto x or anything that will require me to go past redline alot. Mostly drag with this car and i'd be shifting before redline. I think I'll just swap out the bearings and studs and be done with it for now. Thanks

[raremotive]

Yes i Searched.

I pulled off my oil pump to replace it today and find an 8mm crank snout. So now I'm depressed but anyway, I know what needs to be done to fix that but what is involved in getting this fixed. Some people I've talked to make it seem as though I have to rebuild the motor since i'm taking it apart but thats like 2k more. Others say just take the crank have the collar pressed on put everything back together a thats it! $200 that will cost me more or less. Which is it? What will I have to replace to get this fixed I want to drive the damn car already!

Let me ask me ask you your goals for this engine... because if you are going to stay under 400 hp and below redline... doing daily/street driving... the short crank oil drive is fine... there are many r32 out there still running with that short shout... and they are being tracked...

The reason it's an issue... more hp.. more crankflex... more revs... more crank flex...even a slight flex is amplified at the ends of the crank... where the drive is...

It's all about the first question... what are you going to do with the damn motor? Also what you are spending for it...I seen cheap builds just replacing the rod studs because stock is too ductile and push up to 500 reliably. I seen people spend much more to get to the same...

[cdorhout]

FYI, if you want to do a crank collar, I have a perfect RB25DET crank with a JUN crank collar already installed.

I'm going RB30 and no longer need a 25 crank.

[email protected] if you're insterested.

[Jimefam]

My goals are between 300whp and 350 whatever I can efficiently get out of the turbo. And as i stated before I want the car mostly for drag it will be a second car I as already have a DD and will use it maybe 350 to 500 miles a month. I dont think I will be going near redline to much.

[240z4u]

I pulled my crank, had the snout welded and machined and slapped it back in. That was over 20k miles ago.

Evan

[Phat_Optimo]

Have it welded then machined. Its a better fix than the collar IMO.

[BoostFab]

Have it welded then machined. Its a better fix than the collar IMO.

as i have said it before and will say it again. yes permanent collar is better than a bolt on (affix) collar. get it welded and machine...it usually cost less with the welded route. and screw ordering through Australia....who knows how long it takes. Any automotive machine shop in town can do this, it's their day job.

[RB24D]

won't the heat generated from welding the crank change the tensile strength of the crank?? Mabye a noob question but I think it's a good one none the less.

[Phat_Optimo]

won't the heat generated from welding the crank change the tensile strength of the crank?? Mabye a noob question but I think it's a good one none the less.

Nah the heat is not great enough to damage it. Crank weldings been going on for many years. I actually used to work in that type of business.

[l0nestar]

I had my crank snout machined, a new collar made, welded together, and micro-polished for a crisp c-note. While my crank was out, I opted for new main and rod bearings. I spent $200 on bearings.

I also installed an N1 pump. I did not bother to replace my bolts. I also used Permatex liquid sealant on the oil pump, along with Permatex assembly lube.

If your motor is in good / moderate condition (which it appears to be) you should be golden.

I considered tanking my block / blue-printing my engine, but I opted not to, since I did not want a $10,000 motor on a stand.. I wanted to freaking use it!

[RB24D]

Ok just wandering I may go that route then As my engine is currently at the machine shop for the same issue .But I opted to go the 10k route

[redtop240]

I have a serious newbie question, dont hate...what is a short crank snout. I am just wondering as to thats new to me.

[meet07]

I have the write-up but cant transfer it to the internet for you to see. If you throw me ur e-mail I can send it that way.

[rotorimp]

So I had this same problem. I TIG welded my crank while it was installed. Since oil pump engagement was what I was after I took my time/filed it flat till I got perfect contact. I have around a 1000 miles on the car and so far so good.

zerothread?id=243742

[BoostFab]

So I had this same problem. I TIG welded my crank while it was installed. Since oil pump engagement was what I was after I took my time/filed it flat till I got perfect contact. I have around a 1000 miles on the car and so far so good.

zerothread?id=243742

not sure how much your method will throw off balance.

i might give it a shot, but probably fill it all around the snout for better balanced.

[rotorimp]

Might be a gram off-- but since it is closer to the center of the crank I don't think it will matter.