So I got around to pulling the oil pump off of the engine and the RB gremlin deposited a early crank in my Motor. My dilemma is that I'm thinking of just slapping on a new oil pump and "pretending" things are fine.
1. It looks to be the least damaged/missing metal crank that I have seen.
2. This will not be my daily driver---for fun only.
3. I will tune the car for 350-400 whp-------I fully expect to be be rebuilding/ putting in a rb26 in the next couple of years.
4. From what I have seen it looks to be a progressive problem--anyone have any links to what the FINAL outcome of this problem will be and the approximate mileage the motor made it to?
Well Hell--crank collar dilema!
Re: Well Hell--crank collar dilema! (rotorimp)
looking at this reminds me of so many people I talk to in regards to RB swaps. All I can say is, Hope for the best... plan for the worst. Don't skimp anywhere.rotorimp wrote:3. I will tune the car for 350-400 whp-------I fully expect to be be rebuilding/ putting in a rb26 in the next couple of years.
$0.02
Re: Well Hell--crank collar dilema! (OpeLok)
yea--that would exactly be my advice to everyone else. I build 3-4 motors a year and work on cars just about everyday--soo if the worse happens then I can deal with it----I would really like to see what will happen if i let it go?????? After all it has made it how many tens of thousands of miles so far!!
the problem is that you dont know when it will break, there have been cars with 20kmi on it that break them and then you have cars that make 600whp and never have a problem...seems to be the luck of the draw.a collar is a cheap fix, and not terribly hard to do looking at approx 150$ for the collar and machine work to fit it.
Re: (Sil240)
That is exactly waht I'm looking for--What breaks????????? the pump drive?
Re: (Carl H)
Well the problem is fixed--I fired up my Tig and deposited new metal 1/2" towards the snout of the crank. It is also .001 thicker on both sides. Crank geometry is still square--I have no run-out to speak of. I'm ready for the cavalcade of Nay Sayers but I am sure that this is a solid fix. I used an equal amount of rod on both sides and have a perfectly flat surface to engage the pump. the out of balance will be very negligible if any. I measured clearance on a stock KA crank to pump and set up the RB the same way. Based on the contact area of the old drive to pump I'm sure that it will be there for good. I would NOT do this with my MIG and especially not with a flux core welder. The Tig did a nice clean job and I was able to flatten it with a 3M sanding disk to the desired thickness.
Modified by rotorimp at 10:07 PM 4/18/2007
Modified by rotorimp at 10:07 PM 4/18/2007
Re: (Carl H)
I'm pretty handy when it comes to getting metal to stick together.
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klh6686
- Posts: 291
- Joined: Sun May 09, 2004 8:34 am
- Car: '92 FB stock daily
'90 FB w/ RB20
'92 FB w/ VH45
Re: (rotorimp)
rotorimp wrote:Well the problem is fixed--I fired up my Tig and deposited new metal 1/2" towards the snout of the crank. It is also .001 thicker on both sides. Crank geometry is still square--I have no run-out to speak of. I'm ready for the cavalcade of Nay Sayers but I am sure that this is a solid fix. I used an equal amount of rod on both sides and have a perfectly flat surface to engage the pump. the out of balance will be very negligible if any. I measured clearance on a stock KA crank to pump and set up the RB the same way. Based on the contact area of the old drive to pump I'm sure that it will be there for good. I would do this with my MIG and especially not with a flux core welder but the Tig did a nice clean job and I was able to flatten it with a 3M sanding disk to the desired thickness.
Re: (240sx2nr95)
I din't put up pictures before because my camera sux!!
Here you go this was the problem
Here is my fix.
Here you go this was the problem
Here is my fix.
Re: (AZhitman)
Too late-oil pan----oil and water pump are all back on-