CXRacing?

Your premier source for information on the Turbo KA: KA24E-T and KA24DE-T (KA with aftermarket turbo kit)!
Gundyy
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hey, i'm in the process of getting a KA car, and of course i want to add that beautiful T on it ;)
recently came across CXRacing's website and things look promising.
does anyone know if they make quality stuff? anything to avoid in particular or is it all good?
thanks!


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infinitedrift
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great company, they sell on ebay also which is cheaper than thier site. Also when you buy on ebay they'll give you a coupon for thier actual website. On ebay they go under a couple diffrent names but thier all cxracing. check out my build I have posted pictures from their products on there.

Gundyy
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i actually found the company name from your pictures in your thread :dblthumb:
just wanted to check.
also, is buying a used turbo a VERY bad idea? or is it generally your typical used sale depending on condition? i want to start a build over the summer for no more than 300hp, so i can use a t28 just don't want a dud.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I was actually looking at these guys earlier today and was wondering if anyone has one of their kits under their belt. Do they use real garrett turbos, or is it some sort of knockoff?

Gundyy
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judging by the price and the pictures i'd say it's a knock off.. but i'd think if you're not running them insanely they'll be okay. but i have NO idea what i'm talking about since i have yet to buy my 240 soo.. :biggrin:

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infinitedrift
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buyiing a used turbo us okay as long as you know what your looking for. Just make sure the turbo is off the car so you can see and play with it. Online, I would not because they could be lying when they sell you the turbo.

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gijoe392003
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When looking at used turbos, look for shaft play and the turbines aren't all chewed up. Strongly recommend having the turbo rebuilt. As for the CXRacing kits, I've heard hit an miss things with there turbos, but a good place for FMIC's.

Gundyy
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okay. well according to ka-t-components-required-for-this-amoun ... 83590.html this thread, i'd be aiming for a Medium Build and the CXRacing turbo is a T3/T4 turbo.. would i be safer running that on lower psi? or buying a used t28?

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gijoe392003
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First, the t28 uses a T2 flange and the T3/T4 uses a T3 flange on the manifold. Second, the best thing to do is save up for a good turbo from Garrett that will last instead of buying a crappy one and risking it failing after a few miles.

If you are thinking the t28, go with one strait from Nissan: http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-Factory-O ... _1265.html

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PapaSmurf2k3
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^I'd go with something that has traditional flanges so you can use simple silicone couplers instead of that bolt-on stuff.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... _Code=TOKT
Is that the kit you're talking about?
Its pretty cheap, but not stupidly cheap. Expect some minor fitment issues.
Don't forget, you'll still need to buy LOTS of extra stuff such as a fuel pump, bigger injectors, boost controller, engine management, exhaust system, etc.

Gundyy
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alright.
see, thing is i don't wanna spend more than $2000 to hit 250-300whp, so i'm trying to find the best way to do that :P
this is the kit: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... ode=TRB240
are my goals + budget far fetched? i can find many parts used, t28 turbo, intercooler, injectors, even an SAFC Neo and build from there. it'll be more of a cruising car, but occasionally i'll be playing with them ponies :naughty: i guess i'm asking in the long run what would financially benefit me more: buying a brand new 1300 dollar CXRacing kit OR piecing it together with a t28 and miscellaneous used/new parts?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Gundyy wrote:alright.
see, thing is i don't wanna spend more than $2000 to hit 250-300whp
It can be done, but you're going to need a welder and lots of fab skills, as well as score some pretty good deals on stuff.

project-el-cheapo-ka-t-freshly-updated- ... 37970.html

Obviously when you're buying used stuff you run the risk of it not working or having a shorter life span.

Gundyy
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crap.. i don't have easy access to a welder.. i can get a used turbonetics t3/t4 for 200, garret gt28 for 600, 300zx turbo + downpipe for 250.. hmm. anyone wanna win the lottery for me?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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You know a few years ago I read a story about a guy that "traded an Iphone for a porsche". It went on to tell the story that he traded his Iphone for something (PS3 or some such nonsense), then traded the PS3 for a POS ford explorer (capitalized on the gas crunch), then when everything improved traded the explorer for an audi or something, and kept climbing the "trade chain" until he had a newish porsche.

So yeah, it can be done for sure! Its just unlikely, and you might have to wait a long time ;)

Gundyy
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yea i read about a guy that did the same kind of thing.. but started with a giant paper clip and ended up with a house :P alright, well i'll aim for 200-250hp

Gundyy
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okay, going with a t25, 370cc injectors, enthalpy ecu, cxracing fmic and maybe manifold, walbro 255. do i need a fuel pressure regulator?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Nope, your stock fuel pressure regulator will work fine. Do you know what T25 variant you are working with? I can teach you a thing or 2 about compressor maps while we're at it here.

Gundyy
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i've been finding some ads online, used t25, and they only say from an SR20. did they only use 1 size?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Oh you haven't bought it yet? In that case, if I were you, I'd look for a T3 super 60... they are usually pretty cheap too, and would be a better match for the KA.

I'm not too sure about what sizes came on the SR20s, other than the S15 had a t28 and the S13/14 had a T25.

Gundyy
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i'll keep my eyes open then. i like to consider my questions and searches "research" so i know what i'm getting into. work, cost, time and of course the outcome are all what i would like to know ahead of time :) thinking about it, anything over 200whp is a comfortable start.
the 91-98 sr20's had:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Those 370cc injectors (at stock fuel pressure) will max out around 240whp... but it looks like a T25 will be pretty horrifically inefficient in that area.
Image

Note the "3000RPM" dot. Each dot after that is an additional 1000RPM. No, the dots aren't in their perfect exact location (I did this with MS paint ;) )
Notice by 6000 rpm, you're already "off the chart" at 8PSI. This is bad. This is why people say the T25 is too small for a KA. At 8psi, it looks like you'll pretty much max that turbo out at around 220hp.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Here's a much better fit for the KA (and the dots are more consistent... I used excel :) )
Image

Still not perfect like a T3/T04E 50 trim is, but its MUCH better than the T25.

And for comparison, here's the turbo (so we think anyway) that comes with the kit I linked to above:

Image

That turbo clearly has much more wiggle room on the KA, with a lot of room to grow. Its a pretty good fit.

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SiDwAyZ240
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Gundyy-

Thought you might be interested in some of this stuff if you haven't already seen it. This one looks pretty good, but you would have to get some management:

fs-ka24de-turbo-kit-other-stuff-too-t529429.html

This next one may be the most promising cause it comes with engine management also:

ny-greddy-20g-td06-turbo-kit-1500-t529387.html

it's what I have but I haven't finished it yet. I chose to make some changes to raise boost and horsepower and still puting it together. Should be real nice externally wastegated with 850cc injectors :dblthumb:

Papa Smurf-
Got you covered too on the 20G, although I'm still trying to learn how to read them:

Image

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Here's one I made for a 20G many many moons ago. I haven't double checked it though.

Image


quick and dirty way of reading compressor maps:
Your Y- axis is what they call pressure ratio.
skip this if you don't care about the theory: This is calculated by using the equation of ((incoming air pressure + boost pressure)/incoming air pressure). Really this is just an all-encompassing statement for "boost". It allows you to calculate airflow both in single turbo units, as well as twin charger units, and sequential turbos (meaning turbos that have compressed air coming into them, not just atmospheric). Seeing as how we pretty much always deal with single turbo setups that intake atmospheric pressure, read the next part:

if you skipped the above part, or couldn't understand it, read this dumbed down version: The y axis is boost.
~1.5 on the chart is about 8 psi.
~1.7 is about 10 psi.
~2 is about 15 psi.

The X axis: The X axis is airflow. What is airflow? Its power. The more air you shove into your engine, the more fuel you can shove in there too... when these 2 babies get together in a menage a trois with a spark plug, magic things happen.
SCIENCE ALERT!Unfortunately there is no standard for measuring airflow. Some compressor maps are in lb/min, some are in CFM, some are in KG/s, and I'm probably missing one or 2. The easiest one to understand is probably lb/min. A VERY rough estimate of power based on airflow is can be seen as (airflow in lb/min)*10=hp. What about the other metrics of airflow? For purposes of keeping this simple, just hit up google for a unit converter. Punch in "Kg/s to lb/min converter" or something, and one will come up. From there, you can relate back to lb/min, and from there, power! ok, science alert over

What about those islands and donuts and crap? What are they all about?
Those are efficiency islands. You can usually see a number written on them somewhere in the compressor map. Basically, the higher the efficiency, the better the turbo is performing. That one in the middle? That's the "sweet spot". If you match the sweet spot of the turbo with the sweet spot of your engine, hold the frig on. That will most likely be your peak torque area. If you end up in the sweet spot at redline, that just means you probably have a turbo that is just slightly too big, but you'll pull strong to redline.

What about those other lines that sort of go left to right across the graph?
That's the RPM your turbo is spinning. For our purposes... don't worry about that.

Gundyy
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woah! well done! how do you know what your engine RPM is on the maps though?
and SiD, thanks for those links! i'm seriously considering them, such a good deal! if they sell, i'll keep my eyes open for others :)

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Gundyy wrote:woah! well done! how do you know what your engine RPM is on the maps though?
I'll get to that lesson later today (and let you soak up what you just read :) )

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SiDwAyZ240
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So let me try and figure this out:

I used my compressor map cause I wasn't sure what the values were on Papa's.

TD06 20G starts it's peak efficiency at 8PSI and is flowing 17.94 lb/min. (260cfm*.069=17.94). From that 17.94*10= 179.4 HP, right? Is that addittional HP that you add to stock? Seems a little high so I'm assuming you would be capable of 179.4 HP total with the proper fuel. Meaning an increase of roughly 15HP over stock. That seems a little low, I shoulda paid more attention in physics.

Gundyy- Remember thos prices are asking prices. There's no shame in negotiating for used stuff. I found a guy a year ago wanting rid of his BNIB Greddy kit, I offered 1700/shipped just to try my luck and to my suprise he was cool with it. I was happy with my purchase but ultimately I found I probably could have pieced it together and saved even more money but that would have taken more work and even more time. Make sure you use paypal or some sort of security or pick it up in person. I am a avid buyer of used parts, as I work hard for my money and don't see the need in paying more than I have too and I have had pretty good experiences, especially when you deal with credible members of NICO :bigthumb: Just something to think about.
Last edited by SiDwAyZ240 on Fri Apr 08, 2011 11:06 am, edited 1 time in total.

Gundyy
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Thanks! I've been reading similar stuff on the Garret and turbonetics sites. It's very interesting, I'll go over it again after school today. And SiD, the 2nd link you added; is that too much for stock KA internals?

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SiDwAyZ240
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It's all about the boost, that kit was set up for stock motors and come pre-tuned for the 370cc which you were going to use anyway. It's totally plug and play minus the emanage which will have to be wired up, but they have schematics for that.

I read about stock KA's running 400-500 HP. It's all about the boost and tune and how crazy you are. ;)


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