creating a 240z beast!

[evildky]

lol, if you don't have basic fab skills radical swaps are out, learn to weld, it realy isn't hard

[-RJ-]

meh

[skylinedriver59]

Ok im going back to the original post.I finally drop in the L28ET in to the 240z the Motor cranks but I hit a blank wall I tryed pluging up the harness and ecu but i ran out of knowledge. so here it go's, How do I wire the Coil pack to get spark? How do I get power to the ECU?And Last How do I know witch plugs I dont need?
Modified by skylinedriver59 at 7:37 PM 9/21/2008

[evildky]

here is a pretty good detailed write up on the conversion, I personally liked taking the fusible link box from the donor car, just makes for a cleaner installhttp://www.yadamnfool.com/turb...z.htm

[skylinedriver59]

thanks this was lots of help. However I do not have the ignition harness and the FI plug that goes to the ignition harness in the write up is different from mine. I'm getting frustrated. Do you know how to wire the ignitor directly?

[skylinedriver59]

Thanks evildky for the link but I figure whats wrong. The write up on the link is of an 81 harness and I have an 82 harness. The ignition plugs are different the 81 is a 6 pin and the 82 is an 8 pin. I need to figure out where the yellow wire from the ignitor that goes to the ECU plugs in, do you know?

[evildky]

this looks about right, I did mine a zillion years ago and my notes are ina binder int he garage, I recomend you print this stupp out or write it down and make a binder of all the odd things you do to your car, it helps as the memory fades and make sourcing parts a lot easier when yoou have calipers from a maxina, rotors from a 280zx, diff from a 78, cv's from a Z31 turbo, alternator form a GM etccopied form a post at hybridz:Plug #1

Br – Brown to batteryG – Green to battery

Plug #2 near ECU

YW - Yellow/White: goes to the ignitor (I used the LW Blue/White wire that was in the harness to run the signal out to the coil; I used the YW wire between the empty terminal and the y wire)

Y – Yellow: is the start signal (I ran a wire to the BY Black/Yellow wire on the 77 harness under the dash)

Plug #3 at battery

G – Green: 12v constant taken from the batteryBW – Black/White: 12v switchedLR – Blue/Red: fuel pump signal to fuel pump relay pin 86

Ignitor

BW – Black/White: used BW wire from the harness 12v SwitchedYW – Yellow/White: from plug #2 via LW wire

Fuel pump relay

85 – Ground to chassis and B on EFI relay86 – Signal from ECU via LR wire from plug #387 – 12 volts to pump30 – Constant power from battery

[skylinedriver59]

Thanks I'll try this out hopefully this works.

[skylinedriver59]

I Failed. I tried and I could not the wiring. WHAT AM I MISSING HERE? Im not getting spark. I think my coil might be bad? Well If any one has any advise let me know?

[evildky]

do you have power at the coil? did you hook to the correct yellow wire at the connector near the ecu? (there are 2 and you have to test to get the right one) I don't suppose you have access to a smap on smart probe? or some similar tool capable of detecting square wave signals?

[skylinedriver59]

I had power however Im going to re-run the power can I run the power to the coil from the Battery? and I think I got the right Yellow wire. cause I dont have access to thattype of equipment. On the write up from the link you gave me, is everything the same except the coil wiring? Are the instructions for the plug by the fi ralay the same (green goes to 12v, blue red pump switch and black white goes to 12v switch)?

[evildky]

don't run the power for the coil tot he batery, it needs to be switched cranking power, the stock power wire tot he coil should be fine, you just have to have a course that stays hot while cranking, most accessory circuits go dead when cranking, if your power source to the coil is dead when cranking it will not start

the write up seems to be pretty much spot on except the ignition plug and CAS plug, which is the major difference for the 81 model, the diagram he posted at the bottom is actually the 82-83 harness diagramthe less graphic discription is actually the one I used when I did my swap, make sure you ahve a good connection at all your grounds, make sure all your hots stay hot when cranking (if the ecu has no power when cranking the car will nto fire either), verify that the fuel pump is powering on and that the fuel injection relay is powered up, unfortunately the ignitor is a common point of failure on these, after 30 years and 100k miles they tend to weak out and are extrememly expensive and had to find, also it must be grounded to the chassis to work

just take your time, check everything over, and if you cna locate another ignitor it might be worth hanging onto

[skylinedriver59]

Sorry, I ment to say a switch that went to the Battery. The wire I was using was the original Black with white wire from the original coil however I think the power drops when I'm Cranking.

[evildky]

the origional power source to the coil should remain hot when cranking, how about your power to the ecu?

[skylinedriver59]

the power to the ecu is the green and brown wire by the fi relay or the green and black wire from plug witch has the blue/red, white and yellow? How do you check power to the ECU?

[evildky]

found the original instructions i used, pretty basic:You need to get a Haynes manual for '79 to '83 280ZX. This is the one with the red cover. Look on page 252, this is the wiring diagram. You will see 3 plugs labeled "1,2,3" with circles around the numbers. This is at the lower left-hand side of the page.

The wires are as follows:

Plug 1= BR 12v power source. Positive

G 12v power source. Positive

Plug 2=Y start signal (+)GL ground for inhibitor switchYW speed sensor (not necessary)Y A/C signal (+)YW coil (-) (must use ignitor)B fuel pump ground if using modulator

Plug 3=LR fuel pump relayG ignition .signal (+) for air regulatorW not usedY not usedBW ignition signal (+)

[skylinedriver59]

does anybody know how to test the ignition control module? I think thats why im not getting any spark

[evildky]

the ginitor input and output can be tested with a snap on smart probe, I've heard that an analog multimeter or osciliscope can work as well

[BLACK300ZXEVIL]

remember power weight ratio v8s way alot the car was mad for a mid weight engine i would go rb26 then single turbo if too much power youll need wheelie bars so if your going to drag do it but drifting i would go rb20 and bigger turbo and front mount intercooler it would be bad ***