crank sprocket

[xyster]

Is there any trick to getting the crank sprocket off? The FSM is kind of vague...it looks like it just slides off over the key. Or does the key have to be removed first? Any tips? I'm thinking of trying some heat on it tomorrow to see if I can get it slide off.

Also, what kind of liquid gasket do you recommend? Should I use the same kind throughout the motor?

I have the motor down to the crank, about to replace the bearings and start reassembling it...just need to get that sprocket off. I got my new oil pan from Venus today, looks to be in decent shape. Hope to be up and running in a couple weeks. Thanks

[USDM_OneVia]

Go to your local AutoZone and rent a Crank Pulley Puller. Basically its like a giant C clamp..... as you tighten down the screw, it pushes against the engine, while pulling the pulley off. That should work.

Joe

[xyster]

I'm trying to take the sprocket off, not the pulley. I've tried a normal pulley puller, but there's no room to get the hooks in around the top of the sprocket, because of the little metal shield attached to the oil pump. I'm thinking of going to autozone tomorrow to see if they have a puller slim enough to fit in there.

[DAEDALUS]

Should just slide off. Does it slide at all between the key and the block? It's a close-tolerance part, but not an interference fit. If you can remove the key, go ahead and see if that helps.

[boost_boy]

Unfortunately Xyster, this part usually gets destroyed in an attempt to remove it. Go and order another one from nissan and prepare to destroy the one on your motor. I've changed two and both were beat and torched to death just to remove them. You can play around with it, but it will eat up loads of time and bring out major frustration.

[xyster]

no movement at all. The key won't move either.

damn...I was worried I might have to get a new one. off a 1.8L '88 pulsar, right? how much is it? Does it come with the little plate behind it and the key, or are those separate? thanks

[quest]

yeah,some of these nissan sprokets are really wedged on thereI drill 2 holes 180 degrees apart. Tap the hole for a 8x1.25mm (u know the common 12mm wrench bolt head size), and then use a pulley remover... sorta like a heavy duty steering wheel puller.I did one that was so tight, it went off like a gun when it released.I reused the sprocket... rubbed some fine sandpaper and applied some silver antiseize to inside before reinstalling

[boost_boy]

Quote »damn...I was worried I might have to get a new one. off a 1.8L '88 pulsar, right? how much is it? Does it come with the little plate behind it and the key, or are those separate? thanks[/quote] They're not expensive, but they are seperate parts. That sounds like a plan to do (what quest said) about drilling and tapping. And it will be from an 1988 nissan pulsar SE with DOHC motor.

[xyster]

alright, thanks. I'll head up to nissan and order those today, then post the part numbers and prices when I get home. As for removing it, I'll try autozone first, then quest's drilling/tapping idea.

[CA19DET]

yeah mine got distroyed when pulling apart the motor.. got to get a new one...

[DAEDALUS]

If you're leaving the oil pan on make sure you block the opening with a towel or something so you don't get any dirt or metal shavings in the pan. Good luck.

[cortina-mk1]

its common for them not to 'budge' they weld themselves on

drill two holes in the cog then 'crack' it with a cold chisel then they will come offheating the up with the gas or any pulleys pullers wont work...you cant get behind them properly.

alway put a new one on. get the little tin plates as well ...there cheap $7 each cog is about $70 AUD

have part numbers if you require

[Movingviolation240]

useually when you destroy the pulley you also destroy the oil pump. I just took a 'fork' chaped wedge and pried it out. The machine shop that ballanced the crank on my first CA rebuild had the thing off (but destroyed the oil pump) but I don't know what they did either. Basically just don't be affraid of tearing up the pump because you should replace it anyhow. (CA18DE pump works)

PaulOrlando, FL

[CA19DET]

hey paul you have used the Pulsar CA FWD pump on high HP high revvin RWD CA's??

[xyster]

I just got back from Nissan after ordering the new parts:

crank sprocket - 13021-D4200 - $29.26woodruff key - 00926-51900 - $1.02crankshaft plate (behind sprocket) - 13022-42L00 - $1.78

I plan to drill/tap sprocket, then use those holes to pull it off, prolly this weekend. The oil pan's off, so I don't need to worry about shavings. I'm going to really try not to destroy the oil pump...but we'll see. thanks again

[CA19DET]

Quote »crank sprocket - 13021-D4200 - $29.26woodruff key - 00926-51900 - $1.02crankshaft plate (behind sprocket) - 13022-42L00 - $1.78[/quote]hese part numbers should be added tot he sticky post about the parts,.

and i was ordering all my parts form http://www.everythingnissan.com and i dont see that they have these items listed, do they come with the oil pump assembly or seperate..

and if i cant get them from everything nissan maybe somewhere else ahs all the parts i need

waterpumpComplete gasket rebuild kit16 Hydraulic liftersOIl Pumpcrank sprocketwoodruff keycrankshaft plate (behind sprocket)

so far the pumps, gasket rebuild kit and lifters come up to about 450.. add about 35 for the other parts lsited and i am looking at about 480 or so.,.. anyone have a better source for these parts..

thanks

[Movingviolation240]

Yes I used the stock CA18DE oil pump from a pulsair, it's the same part number as the DET pump.

Paul

[xyster]

I just had the guy at the nissan dealership bring up an exploded drawing of the bottom end, and said "I need that, that, and that"...I dunno if they come separately or not.

[cortina-mk1]

same part numbers as here in oz...but the pries are way different the part number for the other plate with the little lip on the edge is13023-42L00 fits on the outside of the cog.

[cortina-mk1]

oh and its not a good idea to use any wedge to try and pry it offas this WILL damage the alloy housing of the oil pump

thats why we drill a 'crack' the cog we have never damaged an oil pump yet using this method

a crackshaft gear is much cheaper than replacing the pump

another thing we like to replace this gear everytime we do a performance engine as this gear does twice the turns of the cam gears. and you dont want the belt to slip and cause piston the valve problemsespecially in the high RPM range

there is less surface area that the belt runs on and hence the teeth will wear a bit more than anywhere else

[xyster]

I just yanked that crank sprocket off, finally. I drilled/tapped it for 3/8x16, then used a pulley puller on it. Pulled right off. Thanks for the help.

[Movingviolation240]

The fact remains that whenever you pull appart a motor to rebuild it you should stick on a new oil pump. So what's it matter if you kill the one that's coming off the old motor?

[themadscientist]

prop the gear on a hard surface and put a chisel in the tooth, give it a whack. Rotate the gear 180 degrees and do it again, it will split and fall off. You won't hurt the crank or the oil pump if you rest the gear against something and you should get a new oil pump anyway. I have to take off all CA and RB gears this way, they are always jammed on.

[redamnavit]

I wish I'd read this before I spent an hour trying to convince the sprocket to slide off. More and more I learn to distrust the optimistic instructions in the FSM. Time for a cold chisel I suppose...

(another satisfied customer of the SEARCH button)

[biosehnsucht]

Dremel + chisel/screwdriver + hammer = "broke" it free..

[themadscientist]

I've had to split everay crank sprocket on every CA or RB I've worked on. Them lil suckers just never want to come off and I'm all pent up and packin a chisel and a baby sledge so BANG! If you need to do the same dilling the sprcket to weaken it and resting the opposing side on something solid so you don't tweak the crank or damage the oil pump is highly advisable.

[Spectre_240sx]

Out of curiosity, how did all of you get the main bolt off to even get to that sprocket? I'm having trouble keeping the crankshaft still.

[themadscientist]

Put a breaker bar and socket on it, rest the end of the breaker bar against the framerail and bump the moter over with the starter. Of course confirm the rotation of the motor first and be sure the motor DOES NOT ACTUALLY START! That breaker bar will wind up across the street or punched through your radiator.

[redamnavit]

I've had to split everay crank sprocket on every CA or RB I've worked on. Them lil suckers just never want to come off and I'm all pent up and packin a chisel and a baby sledge so BANG! If you need to do the same dilling the sprcket to weaken it and resting the opposing side on something solid so you don't tweak the crank or damage the oil pump is highly advisable.

The engine is up on a stand so I'm not sure how I could rest it against anything. I have a new crank ready to go in and I just ordered an oil pump, so for once I'm not terribly concerned about the damage I'm causing.

Out of curiosity, how did all of you get the main bolt off to even get to that sprocket? I'm having trouble keeping the crankshaft still.

Wow, madscientist's idea sounds like fun to watch. When my car had the KA in it I just put it in gear to hold the crank still and used a breaker bar with a pipe to break the bolt loose... if you do it madscientist's way then pull the fuel pump relay to be safe.

[biosehnsucht]

we stuck a long screwdriver/prybar through the flywheel bolts (no flywheel attatched) and let it rotate until it was stuck against the engine stand, then went at the crank pully bolt..

I think we may have impacted it off, don't recall.. but a long enough breaker bar will do the job too..