CODE's 14, 33, 53 OMG WTF! Help please :-)

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J30_Kidd
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HOWDY DAMN IT! lol

14 Vehicle Speed Sensor
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor
53 EGR Temperature Sensor (LH)

Ok so i've had code 14 for a while now sense i bought the car, haven't gotten around to getting a new one and my cruise control and speedometer work perfect so i've ignored it.

Now today on the highway doing 60mph with my foot steady on the gas the car started jerking as if someone was tugging from behind me. The engine light came on as this was happening and then turned off as the problem stopped.

I got home and pulled these two new codes 33 and 53. What should i look into with these codes in hand? If it was just the egr one or just the oxygen sensor i would go str8 to that but it seems fishy to me i got two items on the exhaust side saying something ain't right. I'm thinking maybe a clogged exhaust? IDK

On a side note i've been dealing with a issue of the car going into a lymp mode type deal at times while driving. It just feels like my timing is retarded to the max and this started happening ever sense replacing the transmission and replacing all the seals on the engine and putting a new knock sensor on. Now with no code 34,i still have those weird power loss issues at random times (hot/cold morning/night just random times etc.)

Also wanna throw out there that during the 3 months i took to do all that engine work and transmission swaping i left my whole exhaust in one piece outside in my back yard. It rained a few times and wondering now it i screwed up the internals of the cats or muffler and now it's screwing my power up.

Anyways any ideas or related experiences on what to do now? I'd be so happy if these codes are what i've been waiting for in hopes of my power loss issues!! :woot:

Thanks in advanced guys/gals IDK what i do with out y'all.


J30tChumpCar
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The cats can only be damaged by physical contact/dent/rough handling or a over rich mixture, mufflers can not be hurt at all. the o2 sensors are brittle, more so then the cats.

Your problems sound harness related, check all the connectors in the affected systems.

J30_Kidd
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Thanks ChumpCar, I'll spray out the connections with some contact cleaner, I've read on some other post's NOT to use dielectric grease though correct? Just want to make sure cause last time round i didn't put any on those connections but that was like several months ago.

If not those do you mean the actual harness may be bad and need to be replaced?

Spanks Again! :chuckle:

J30tChumpCar
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Dielectric grease ? I thought it was good ?!? You will need to rely on the others here for the rest of the answers.

If you are looking for more ponies ditch the factory mufflers.

GerryO
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J30tChumpCar wrote:Dielectric grease ? I thought it was good ?!? You will need to rely on the others here for the rest of the answers.
I'm pretty sure dielectric grease is good just about everywhere, except on all things associated with O2 sensors.

J30_Kidd
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Ok, well cleaning them off didn't help, and today while at work a new symptom happened on top of the weird random jerking that started.

I've noticed while with the a/c off and in drive with foot on brake of course that my cel came on but tapping the gas while still holding the brake would make it turn off but then it would come back on. with a/c on it doesn't happen, i thought maybe the voltage was low at idle and having the a/c raises it but my radar detector with the voltage reading on it shows a good 13 volts with the a/c off. So kinda ruled that out but maybe wrong idk :gotme

I also noticed while on the high way at a steady 55 or 60 etc the light would come on and off and as i was cruising down the highway at 60 letting it coast (foot off gas) if i shifted it down to 3rd from D it would turn the cel on but shifting back to D (OD) would turn it back off or also giving it gas would make it turn back off in 3rd gear. :wtf2:

This really puzzles me now. IDK what to look for. Any Ideas

Here's a video, i hope it works lol

OH! I forgot to mention :laugh: after taking this video i pulled over and pulled the codes out of the computer and got only 53 and 33, I'm guessing the VSS code 14 hadn't tripped as of yet from pulling the codes last night and i must of at least been been working for 5 hours already.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTJ0zQIB4qU[/youtube]

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1994 infiniti j30 190+
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your o2 sensor may be clogged up and not reading right and when you give it gas it reads enough and turns the code back off. try testing the the output voltage that gets sent to the computer to see if its even working right(with the car running of course) and for your egr sensor that might be turning on due to the o2 sensor reading wrong (if it is) and the temp in the exhaust being way off from where it should be when the engine is warmed up. look in the fsm and see if you can find anything on the o2 sensor testing.

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swimshark
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the light coming off and on is egr related. when i forgot to hook up the vacuum hose on the intake, mine started throwing codes and the cel light would come on and off intermittently. the egr does have a temp sensor on it and it is located on the drivers side of the assembly. try just cleaning the connections and then let them hang dry for a bit then plug them up and see what happens.

you are correct, do not put dielectric grease on the o2 plugs, this will cause the ecu to read wrong. as for leaving the exhaust itself outside it will not cause any issues. i left mine out in the snow when i did my trans swap for 2 weeks and they still work fine.

was the speed sensor on the replacement transmission good or was it bad to begin with? sometime it can just be the gear on the speed sensor that goes bad.

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1994 infiniti j30 190+
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having the light go on and off is telling me your having intermittent problems with the egr temp sensor and o2 sensor. and your right having the egr open and close would cause the light to do that but it would throw a egr function code instead. i had that issue on my car and the egr diapram was broke all around so sometimes it worked and sometimes it wouldnt. look in the fsm on the code diagnostics chart.

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swimshark
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yah but i also currently have my egr completely removed and when i was testing different ecus, i get a code for egr malfunction on one and egr temp sensor on the other lol

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1994 infiniti j30 190+
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hold on we have the wrong codes here. code 33 and 53 are heated o2 sensor lh and rh so you have only o2 sensor problems so forget about egr. go to ef and ec pg 104 for the diagnostics on the o2 sensors. now your light going on and off you might have 2 bad o2 sensors but try the connections first. just to be sure pull the codes again to be sure we have the right ones.

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swimshark
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J30_Kidd
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sorry gonna make this quik, at work and on phone posting this lol.

i did clean the connections, this would be the second time now in the past 5 months and it didnt help.

i havent got a chance to test the voltage yet, ill do that tonight after work.

on the speed sensor i used the one on the donor and it threw the code again and i had those new lack of power problems, and also the weird rpm fluctation around 2k rpm on the highway, i put my old one back on off my old trans and it semed to help out a lil on the rpm fluctation reving while on highway but still does it.


thanks and sorry for typos lol ill clean this up when i get home tonight

ok wow just saw the other post while typing this up, im tripple sure on the codes i sat there for 10 mins letting it blink and checking i had it right lol

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1994 infiniti j30 190+
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wait in ur post swimshark it says 53 is egr temp sensor but in the fsm it says heated o2 sensor rh?!?!?!?! i think the post in the sticky is wrong. sothere is no egr problems here just heated o2 sensor.

J30_Kidd
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1994 infiniti j30 190+ wrote:wait in ur post swimshark it says 53 is egr temp sensor but in the fsm it says heated o2 sensor rh?!?!?!?! i think the post in the sticky is wrong. sothere is no egr problems here just heated o2 sensor.


Crap i was going by the post/sticky item, You mean it's wrong? Where in the FSM do i find the codes? I looked every possible place i would think they'd be, tried doing a search in the pdf for key words and no luck!

J30_Kidd
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Ok i did some googling and found this

Here are some popular malfunction codes for Infinity vehicles 1990-1995:

Code 11 Crankshaft position sensor fault
Code 12 Mass air flow sensor fault
Code 13 Engine coolant temperature sensor
Code 14 Vehicle speed sensor
Code 16 Traction control system
Code 21 Ignition signal circuit
Code 31 ECM fault
Code 32 EGR fault
Code 33 Oxygen sensor fault (left)
Code 34 Knock sensor
Code 35 EGR temperature sensor
Code 43 Throttle position sensor
Code 45 Injector leak
Code 46 Secondary throttle position sensor
Code 51 Injector circuit
Code 53 Oxygen sensor fault (right)
Code 55 No malfunction

So according to this both oxygen sensors are going blah! So if this is the new case then what should i look for? whats the chances both sensors failing at the same time, i'm thinking i actually have a bigger problem now.... ugh FML

i'm gonna test the voltage after dinner in a few min's and also check my brakes cause i heard some noises and it's freaking me out, i think this car just hates me at this point lol

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1994 infiniti j30 190+
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yea im pretty sure the sticky has some typos but yea those codes are right. i found the codes in the fsm on page EF and EC 40 which gives all codes and what page to go to to diagnose it which the o2 sensor page is EF and EC 104. and the chances of both at the same time is unlikely so i think you have a wiring problem somewhere.

J30_Kidd
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Yep i just found that page my self right now while looking how to test the sensors. But thank you for letting me know. OK like WTF is B, it show to test continuity between 29,55 and B i see 29 and 55 are the middle pins, but what is B?

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yodawill2000
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J30_Kidd
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yodawill2000 wrote:how-to-read-obd1-trouble-codes-for-1993 ... 17489.html
the list for odb1 J30's
Yoda we were jus talking about how this link you just re shared is totally wrong wrong wrong, i looked in my fsm and on some other resources on google and 1994 infiniti looked in the fsm and corrected me on the error so we both found these codes are for oxygen sensor RH LH, driver driver has the wrong info on his sticky or whom ever posted that topic lol. I call :bs: on it te hehe, we gotta let him know bout it.

Thanks though, on a side note i'm also looking into my grind sound i heard today, and apperantly my driver side front brake is wearing fast then my passenger side, :wtf2: I'm sure this is having to do with a stick caliper but at this point i'm just gonna put some cheap pads on for now. I'm to busy chasing this problem down ATM.

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1994 infiniti j30 190+
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B is the middle wire on the o2 sensor connector is shows a pic on EF and EC 106 at the top left corner. you do from 29 to the right bank sensor wire and then the same for the left bank. what you doing is checking the wiring from the computer to the o2 sensor wiring under the hood.

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yodawill2000
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when you install the pads you MUST use the grease they sell in little packets for calipers.
I had the same thing on my J when I got it.
The calipers should slide freely toward and away from each other.
Will do some checking on those codes.
All Ive ever had was Knock sensor and EGR Function. (Clogged tubes from EGR to Intake)

And both were the correct code.

J30_Kidd
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Don't worry yoda i used the grease lol, i still have a jar full of it, i got tired of buying those stupid packets and bought a 8 oz jar of it, lasted me a long time now and it's the good type to :biggrin: . Though i didn't turn the rotors cause it's like 9pm and this is a like omg wtf type thing so they will do for now. Haha i just relized i did a 30 min brake job lol.

Back to the main issue though lol

Ok so i thought 29 and 55 where the white wires in the middle, according to the pictures on EF & EC 103 it shows W for white i guess and the numbers 29 and 55 in the middle or am i reading this wrong? B/Y seems to be 115 and G/Y seems to go to a blue connector labeled f23 and m74. What looks to be a ground wire wrapped around the middle one goes down to gray f7/f40 to f37 engine ground and i notice it has a B by it to.

Please explain a lil better i seem to be stupid tonight ekkk :gotme :gotme :rotfl


On a side note yoda, i'm glad to be rid of code 34 lol. though my car still runs as if it has code 34 :facepalm:

J30_Kidd
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**UPDATE** Not sure why i called b/y blue/yellow it should be black/yellow lol, i fixed it!


OK so just dived into it and took what readings i could,

Passenger side:
Green/Yellow to Blue/Yellow had 1881k ohms
White to Green/yellow had 639k ohms
black/yellow to white was infiniti :rotfl

Driver Side:
green/yellow to blue/yellow had 1956k ohms
white to green/yellow had 643k ohms
black/yellow to white was infiniti :rotfl

both oxygen sensors had two white outer wires and one black middle. on both sides, the white to white had 0 ohms resistance and infinite from black to either white wire.

I'm gonna now measure it running at 2k rpm wish me luck, brb :ohno:
Results below now. Thanks! :bigthumb:
Last edited by J30_Kidd on Mon Nov 22, 2010 8:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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1994 infiniti j30 190+
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just to be sure you went from the ecm connector in the car to the o2 sensor under the hood right? if so just do the middle wireunder the hood to the 29 or 55 and if theres continuity then your wiring is fine. and yes you go from white wire under the hood to the white wire inside the car at the ecm connector. i would probably suggest you do it during daylight time lol

J30_Kidd
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oh lol umm well i just did all this under the hood not from the ecm or anything, and as i put on there, i just tested from the b/y to g/y to w wires.

It appears when the car is running the green/yellow wire provides the 12 volts to the sensor.

This is what i got while running at 2k rpm, on end i connected to ground and the other end at:
green/yellow i got 13-14 volts
white was between .05 to -.05 or mostly 0 after it was running at 2000 rpm for a while.
black/yellow stayed at .32 volts on the driver side and .33 on the passenger.

So according to FSM my o2 sensors are bad... How the hell do they both go at the same time! This just doesn't make sense, i think this car is cursed, what ya'll think?

GerryO
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J30_Kidd wrote:what ya'll think?
New/properly functioning O2 sensors will improve highway gas mileage and prolong catalytic converter life.

One of my injectors failed just after I'd replaced my timing belt/water pump/oil seals/accessory belts. Just after I pulled the plenum and replaced all six injectors/o-rings/PCV valves/spark plugs/EGR valve, an O2 sensor failed. Then a couple of speakers and the windshield washer pump motor stopped working, after I parked the car for a few months. All in all, still not too bad for an almost 19 year old car with 180K miles on it, that I still enjoy driving, and repairing.

J30_Kidd
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I don't mind working on my cars at all, i LOVE doing it, but what i do admit i hate about working on this car is the fact that every single item cost 3x what it would cost to have fixed other cars i've owned or own right now. I really need to replace the shocks/struts all round but i hate to spend that money just to never figure out these other problems, just seems weird. *BIG SIGH* what to do.. lol Well tomorrow i'm gonna pull the o2 sensors and take a look at them, I'm gonna have to drop 200$ for two new sensors and pray to the nico gods this cures all the hesitation problems i've had. I'll be happy with just code 14 and a nice running car lol. I'm sure 14 is due to the Reed switch in the dash anyways after trying a few different VS Sensors already...

I wanna Say Thank you every one for your help, this has been a fun issue i tackled in a day :rotfl, And i totally owe a 12 pack of beer to 1994 infiniti j30 190+, with out you i would of been chasing down a egr temp code this whole time and wasting time and probably more money. You Are A Nico God :woot:

GerryO
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My order information from approximately two years ago:
2 - Denso OE identical O2 sensor (with connectors)
Stock Number: 234-3087
Part Number: 234-3087
Unit Price: $59.88
Extended Price: $119.76
Subtotal: $119.76
Shipping & Handling: $10.54 (UPS Ground)
Tax: $9.28
Total: $139.58

http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cross ... 7&x=45&y=9
Now today on the highway doing 60mph with my foot steady on the gas the car started jerking as if someone was tugging from behind me. The engine light came on as this was happening and then turned off as the problem stopped.
This sounds like it could be a dirty MAF sensor, or a worn TPS or CAS, or failing injector coil issue.

J30_Kidd
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Any Preferred brand to buy when getting oxygen sensors? I've seen Denso and Bosch. I kinda wanna just get some today depending what i can find cheapest here in town today.

Bosch seem to be a universal type but I'm not afraid to splice sum wires lol :chuckle:


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