Clutch will not engage...Any suggestions.

[J14cm7]

I dont ask for help often cause usually you can just find the answers through search but i have come up with nothing.

I have an S14 sr20det with matching trans. I just replaced the clutch with a SPEC stage 3. Also replaced the flywheel. I fired up the car for the first time the other night after the install and put it in gear and nothing... Car didnt move at all. It goes into any gear you want but will not go. I checked the drive-train and everything is good so that is not the problem.

I climbed under the car and hit the release fork slightly with a hammer and it slowly released. I fired up the car with out putting in the clutch (Bypassed the clutch pedal sensor to do this) and it wouldn't go into gear which is normal. I slightly pushed in the clutch pedal just enough to put it into gear and then the car started to move upon release. But once i put the clutch pedal back in the original problem occurred. i went under the car and sure enough the release fork did not come back and was stuck in the disengage position.

Im hoping this is an adjusment issue and not something i did wrong on install. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The build can be found here j14cm7-s-s14-kouki-conversion-build-t472918.html Like i said i dont ask for help often but i searched on this site and google and found that people were having the opposite of this problem.

Thanks in advance

[OutToWinPAHC]

Sounds like a CMC issue, or an issue with the plunger rod adjustement.

Do you use the damper? Did you bleed it well? Is the fork installed properly?

Start by bleeding the hell out of it, then try the adjustment as listed in the FSM. If nothing and your sure the fork is good, try a CMC and Slave.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/91-94/CL.pdf

[tyrodtom]

It sounds like the throwout bearing might be jamming on the input shaft sleave. It's supposed to slide on it to push the fingers on the pressure plate then slide back when you take your foot off the pedal. It has to be badly jammed to still hold pressure against the pressure plate springs. The clutch forf could be on the throw out bearing crooked, which would make it very hard for the throwout bearing to slide.

I had a problem a little like this, my throw out bearing would come back enough to release the clutch but it would stay in contact with the pressure plate fingers, after trying adjusting , bleeding , etc. with no success, I concluded there must be some roughness on the input sleave. Instead of taking it apart I added a stiff spring at the clutch fork, that pulled it forward.
I drilled a 1/16th in. hole in the clutch fork, and put a spring between it hooked to the breather lines on the steering rack. It's been there 3 or 4 years.

[AutoRb]

^ what he said.
the pressure plate has a lot of force to push the throw out bearing back, so it must be jammed.

Did you grease up the input shaft where the bearing rides on?

[tyrodtom]

If his is caused by the same fault, it would have to be awfully rough to be able to hold it against the pressure plate springs.

How hard do you have to tap the clutch fork to get it to go forward ?

I've also had a clutch release problem from moisture in the fluid. Changed fluid and insulated the clutch line. But this was under circle track conditions in the summer.

I've seen flexible hoses get in bad enough condition to break apart internally, and act like a check valve and not let the fluid flow both ways freely. I've seen this in flexible brake hoses, it could happen in the flexible line to the slave cylinder.

[J14cm7]

Everything was done on install per the FSM. I have concluded that the fork is not clipped into the pin ball in the trans. i felt my freinds trans which is out of car and the fork recoils when it is clipped in and doesnt when its not. Well guess its time start pulling the transmission...