Clutch Problems

[drift_trd_ae86]

I just recently got a 91 coupe and the clutch was working fine when i bought it, butrecently its been acting strange, its like wehn i drive it sometimes the clutch will jsut stop working, like it wont engage, but after it sits a little while it seems to work ok, i checked the slave cylinder butthat seems to be working fine, what could it be?

[180fan]

master

[drift_trd_ae86]

yea cause the clutch doesnt seem to be smoking or anything

[Tx-Sx-FS]

my clutch has same problem..it will go in fine..but comes out real slowly..i check the master and slave cylinder for air...what could it be? would it be the clutch plate itself ?

[drift_trd_ae86]

i just ordred a new master cylinder, do i need to bench bleed it?

[180fan]

Be careful when bleeding the clutch. Most have the damper loop box thing which is total junk and traps air like crazy. check that out before swapping the master.

You don't have to bench bleed the master, but it helps.

[drift_trd_ae86]

ok so im pretty sureit wasnt my master cylinder, but i got it for free, so its ok, im just going to get a new clutch from my work (KRAGENS ) oh well.

thanks for the help anyway

Bryon

[IveBeenBad]

I seriously doubt its the clutch itself, it seems like youve got air trapped in the hydraulics...

[drift_trd_ae86]

ok so what the proper way to bleed my clutch system?

[IveBeenBad]

pump clutch pedal a fe wtimes and hold, open bleeder... rinse lather repeat...

[drift_trd_ae86]

the bleeder valve at the slave, right?

[ez240sx]

I posted a question about my '91 240sx clutch also. It wouldn't go into gear. I replaced the master and slave and even routed around the damper (which also must be bled you know) by turning the tubing from the master directly to the rubber hose to the slave. Still didn't work. If it isn't the clutch itself I think it may be that the fork, which the rod from the slave cylinder rides against, gets worn (the depression I'm talking about) and even though the replacment rod for the slave was slightly longer than what was on it, may not be quite long enough. I went to Lowes and bought a threaded rod (5/16 dia I think) and a coupling I can put on the fork end of it which can be rotated to make it even longer and I'm going to try that just to see if it will then go into gear. Please let me know if your problem gets resolved. thanks, bill

[IveBeenBad]

the bleeder valve at the slave, right?

The block on the frame first then the slave.

[drift_trd_ae86]

can i preasure bleed the system like brakes?

[drift_trd_ae86]

well i just tried bleeding so yea that did not work, so for sure im just going to get a clutch kit.

[drift_trd_ae86]

thaks for all the help guys, im new to 240's so i really appreciate all the love, ill let you know how the clutch works out peacebryon

[Tx-Sx-FS]

so if my clutch pedal isnt coming out like should..it comes out slowly...i need to bleed the slave, and the damper? i have no clue where these are located or how to do...some help please

[ez240sx]

You should check the fluid level in the master cylinder located on the left firewall to see if it's between the max and min. Check the color of it: brake fluid is clear, not brown. If you can put the front of your car on ramps it may give you enough room to check the slave cylinder which is bolted onto the transmission housing (right-passenger-side) with two bolts and has a rubber hose going to it. It has a rod coming out of it through a rubber "cup" housing; the rod end (aft) goes into a depression in the clutch "fork". If you loosen that "cup" onto the slave cylinder, does fluid come out? It shouldn't. Between the slave cylinder and the master cylinder (trace out the metal tubing) is the damper control, a metal box mounted next to the right frame rail on inboard side (underside of vehicle). Both the slave and damper control have bleeder screws. When you depress the clutch pedal there should be resistance as you're moving the fluid against the pressure of the clutch fork through the master, damper and slave. When you operate the clutch the fluid has to overcome the resistance of the clutch itself. When you release the pedal, the fluid pressure comes back the other way as the result of the clutch springs and the springs on the pedal. It should snap back unless the fluid isn't pushing back from the clutch operating normally through the slave cylinder etc.

[drift_trd_ae86]

so im installing a new set now i have a couple of problems

1. my pilot bushing is stuck i mean stuck stuck, how can i get it out, the tool from KRAGENS SUCKS ARSE.

2. teh pressure plate holes and the flywheel post teh part to line them up, arent fiitting on just right they are really really tight.

3. what is the easiest way to put that dam top bolt back on, i spent like 1.5 hrs on getting that dam thing off.

need this info ASAPthanks

p.s not that i look at my clutch im pretty sure that was the problem, ill post pics asap.

Bryon

[Tx-Sx-FS]

so if i bleed all of those..the pedal should release back up normally? i mean since i bought the car i havent really been able to spin the tires..need that clutch to operate smoother...this is a 2 person job? i really dont have that type of help..hehe...lousy neighbors...

[IveBeenBad]

to get the top bolt in, try jacking up the front of the motor a little

[drift_trd_ae86]

again need this info ASAP

so im installing a new set now i have a couple of problems

1. my pilot bushing is stuck i mean stuck stuck, how can i get it out, the tool from KRAGENS SUCKS ARSE.

2. teh pressure plate holes and the flywheel post teh part to line them up, arent fiitting on just right they are really really tight.

3. what is the easiest way to put that dam top bolt back on, i spent like 1.5 hrs on getting that dam thing off.

need this info ASAPthanks

p.s not that i look at my clutch im pretty sure that was the problem, ill post pics asap.

Bryon

[180fan]

Byron I've got some tips. First of all Kragen's tools do suck arse.

1. To get the pilot bushing out, you may have to cut it if it's really stuck in there. Usually though, I have gotten away with hosing it down with valvoline synpower penetrating grease and then using the pilot bushing puller I got from Sears.

2. When installing the flywheel, put that one on first, line up the clutch, insert alignment tool and then put the pressure plate on top of that. Make sure though, that the threads in the flywheel aren't cross threaded if you're having a hard time getting it in/out. Otherwise, you may just have to rotate around the pressure plate to get that proper fit.

3. The top bolt, many have wrestled with this and spent alot of time with it. Get the other bolts on first. When you're down to that last bolt or two at the top, let the jack that's holding your transmission release. It'd probably be best to loosen the nuts at the bottom of your motor mounts when you're doing this too (it'll make the install of the transmission easier when you're trying to get it in trust me that's the hardest part). The weight of the transmission will cause your motor to lift a little and will give you enough clearance to get a crazy super long extension in there to drive the last bolt in.

Good luck with getting the transmission in btw I usually rotate my trannies 90 degrees on the sensor side and rotate while I'm trying to install the damn thing for another tip.

[180fan]

Tx-Sx-FS, bleeding hydraulic stuff typically becomes a 2 person job. It's also safer that way so one can pump and watch the master clyinder, while the other watches the line for bubbles and does the opening and closing of the bleeder valve.

[drift_trd_ae86]

Here are the pics.





Bryon

[180fan]

hmm I don't see the pics.

[drift_trd_ae86]

they are on my imagestation i dont know how post pics.

[drift_trd_ae86]

so i got the clutch in a new slave( that worked good) so the car is driving now, but there is like a 5,000 RPM revlimiter, what do i do now?

[drift_trd_ae86]

sorry for the size but here is the clutch i took out so, um yea

[nab911]

To get the pilot bushing out, you use a slide hamer and a pilot bushing removal tool... you can get em free from autozone and all it does is slide in, screw a thing that makes to arms reach out and grab it, and the slide hammer its backwards pulling the thing out. I was changing mine on my ca18det but the new one didnt have a big enough opening for the input shaft...