Clutch Pedal Sticking, Not Coming Backup All The Way, Need Help !

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turono
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Joined: Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:11 pm
Car: 1992 Nissan 240SX, Super Hicas, 2-Door Hatchback

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Hi all, i have a 92 240sx s13 hicas - ka24det, ive been trying to figure out what is wrong with my clutch pedal, it wont come backup all the way after shifting into any gear, no recent work or repairs performed in the clutch/transmission area yet, i think the system might need to be blead, bad slave cylinder, clutch pedal adjustment or maybe even just a bum spring in the clutch pedal assemby, any help is greatly appreciated on this matter, maybe someone has had similiar problems with their clutch pedal sticking as well and could explain what the cure is for this clutch pedal sticking issue. Much thanks in advanced for your help and support - Turono.


stocker240
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 12:04 pm

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hey man I have a '91 with hicas as well and my car just started doing the same thing that you are talking about , well i am going to get a new slave and new clutch master /remove the dampener and see if that solves my woes


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CMG
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Car: 1989 240sx Hatch w/ Redtop

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It might just be your slave but it's better to replace both master and slave and be done with it. Nabco maybe $60 for both.

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480sx
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Car: 1996 Pearl White 240sx

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First try to adjust the clutch pedal itself, its not very hard. Look at the assembly and you can figure out how to do it.

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TotallyStock
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Car: 1992 240SX Totally Stock 82k Miles

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turono wrote:Hi all, i have a 92 240sx s13 hicas - ka24det, ive been trying to figure out what is wrong with my clutch pedal, it wont come backup all the way after shifting into any gear...
-----Most likely the master Cyl. Be careful with this one because if the fluid pressure is still partially engaging your slave Cyl and you are driving the car on a regular basis, then you are risking a burned out clutch. Keep your window cracked open and keep your nose in the air for the smell of hot asbestos.

blake89240sx
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Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:44 am
Car: '89 240sx

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i have replaced my master cylinder, slave cylinder and adjusted the actual clutch pedal and it is still doing it. im pretty sure its just a crappy spring on the assembly

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IanS
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blake89240sx wrote:i have replaced my master cylinder, slave cylinder and adjusted the actual clutch pedal and it is still doing it. im pretty sure its just a crappy spring on the assembly
The spring is there only to keep the weight of the pedal from pushing on the clutch. It has nothing to do with the pedal coming back up from the floor. You have air trapped in the system, most likely inside of the damper box.

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mastakilla08
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Car: 1992 hatch, 1989 piggy coupe, 1991 coupe silv.

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From my experience, when air gets trapped in the system it causes the pedal to be harder to push?

Try bleeding the air out of the damper make sure you have a solid stream of brake fuid squirting out... do the same with the slave...

If it isnt your master or slave, pull the rubber boot on your clutch fork and check if its sitting properly on the pivot?, also maybe possible bad pilot bearing... ud be suprised what might be wrong its never what u expect!Ive dealt alot with 240 trannys, and i had all those same symptoms plus skweaking, I tried replacing Everything!!

Master, Slave, Fork, Pivot, throwout, clutch, pressure plate, New transmission,

hahaha ended up being the damn pilot bearing was toast??? wtf works perfect now

Good luck man

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IanS
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mastakilla08 wrote:From my experience, when air gets trapped in the system it causes the pedal to be harder to push?
What?

Are you on drugs?

Air in the clutch system compresses much more easily than fluid, making the pedal spongy, or stick to the floor if there is enough.

Its the same with brakes, if there is air, the pedal is spongy.

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nando
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Car: 1995 nissan 240sx se
1989 nissan 240sx

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bleed the slave cylender line just like you would your break lines

use your hand to pull and push the clutch

it will take a long time but you have to pump the clutch pedal like 40 times then release the bleeder screw and keep doing it untill you have good pressure

then drive around and if you have to bleed it a few more times just remember to keep the clutch fluid full of break fluid.

and dont let it spill on to your wheel well or fire wall because then it will eat the paint and cause a rust hole

hope this helps good luck


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240ChukiSX
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Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx Hatchback, 2.4L KA24DE

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nando wrote:bleed the slave cylender line just like you would your break lines

use your hand to pull and push the clutch

it will take a long time but you have to pump the clutch pedal like 40 times then release the bleeder screw and keep doing it untill you have good pressure

then drive around and if you have to bleed it a few more times just remember to keep the clutch fluid full of break fluid.

and dont let it spill on to your wheel well or fire wall because then it will eat the paint and cause a rust hole

hope this helps good luck
Listen to him and try it!! I agree. I vote

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mastakilla08
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Car: 1992 hatch, 1989 piggy coupe, 1991 coupe silv.

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I was reffering to if you pump the clutch pedal with air in it it gets difficult to push in after a few pumps doesnt do that if its bled properly lol

guess i didnt really specify


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