clutch pedal prob.
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stillmatic
- Posts: 438
- Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2003 12:33 pm
Ivory, what do you recommend for bleeding the clutch? Brake fluid or clutch fluid? My friend said brake fluid will clog up the master cylinder.. But then the auto parts store said they're both the same.
Anyway, when my clutch went out (no pressure on the pedal) I was able to drive my car for 40 miles... I could still shift gears without grinding. The clutch disc somewhat got stuck so I was going really slow on the freeway. When I got home, the clutch resoirvor was dry empty because my master or slave leaked after my clutch went out. If you don't know how many miles you have on your clutch then maybe it's time for a new one. Just a thought.
You should follow everyone else's advice first though. It could be a bad master or slave. Replace both if one of them is bad. They only cost $75.
Anyway, when my clutch went out (no pressure on the pedal) I was able to drive my car for 40 miles... I could still shift gears without grinding. The clutch disc somewhat got stuck so I was going really slow on the freeway. When I got home, the clutch resoirvor was dry empty because my master or slave leaked after my clutch went out. If you don't know how many miles you have on your clutch then maybe it's time for a new one. Just a thought.
You should follow everyone else's advice first though. It could be a bad master or slave. Replace both if one of them is bad. They only cost $75.
unless your car specifically recommends a different fluid [not many do] then use brake fluid. if you look on the resevior cap, it will usually specify DOT 3.
DOT 3/4 is interchangeable, with DOT 4 having a higher spec [better] if possible, do not use DOT 3. even if your car specifies it, use DOT 4. DOT 3 is junk.
DOT 5 is silicone fluid [does not absorb water] but cannot be used in automotive systems unless the car was designed for it. [not many are. DOT 5 is used extensively by postal vehicles to extend the service life]
DOT 5.1 is useable in normal DOT 3/4 systems, and is expensive.
my personal fav. is Castrol GT LMA [exceeds dot 4 standards, and LMA stands for low mosture absorbation] i can get it in all my local parts stores, it isnt expensive, and when a customer requests quality fluid, thats what i use.
as far as brake fluid gunking up clutch systems, i am very leery of that statement, as a clutch hydraulic system is identical to a brake system. the only way i can see that being true is if the vehicle was secifically designed for a specialty fluid [once again, thats rare.]
DOT 3/4 is interchangeable, with DOT 4 having a higher spec [better] if possible, do not use DOT 3. even if your car specifies it, use DOT 4. DOT 3 is junk.
DOT 5 is silicone fluid [does not absorb water] but cannot be used in automotive systems unless the car was designed for it. [not many are. DOT 5 is used extensively by postal vehicles to extend the service life]
DOT 5.1 is useable in normal DOT 3/4 systems, and is expensive.
my personal fav. is Castrol GT LMA [exceeds dot 4 standards, and LMA stands for low mosture absorbation] i can get it in all my local parts stores, it isnt expensive, and when a customer requests quality fluid, thats what i use.
as far as brake fluid gunking up clutch systems, i am very leery of that statement, as a clutch hydraulic system is identical to a brake system. the only way i can see that being true is if the vehicle was secifically designed for a specialty fluid [once again, thats rare.]
sorry, i havent been reading this thread.
but heres how to check. get a buddy, and if the cars problem is intermittant, drive it around untill it starts to mess up. then get under and check to see if the slave cylinder is malfunctioning like i said previously. if the cylinder is operating the throw out fork normally, but the car still doesnt want to go in gear, its either the fulcrum or the TOB, in which case the transmission needs to be dropped.
if your TOB is failing, youll hear a grinding/whirring sound comming from the transmission bellhousing area when the car is running in neutral. the sound will change if you lightly [not all the way] push on the clutch pedal.
if the TOB is just starting to fail, the sound may go away when you lightly push the pedal, but if its really on its way out, when you push the pedal, it will get louder.
it kinda sounds like slushing water from the drivers seat.
also, check your transmission fluid. DO NOT use GL-5 fluid in the transmission. USE GL-4 [GL-5 fluid contains sulfur and other compounds that are awesome at lubricating a hypoid gear [rear end] but are corrosive to synchronizers]
but heres how to check. get a buddy, and if the cars problem is intermittant, drive it around untill it starts to mess up. then get under and check to see if the slave cylinder is malfunctioning like i said previously. if the cylinder is operating the throw out fork normally, but the car still doesnt want to go in gear, its either the fulcrum or the TOB, in which case the transmission needs to be dropped.
if your TOB is failing, youll hear a grinding/whirring sound comming from the transmission bellhousing area when the car is running in neutral. the sound will change if you lightly [not all the way] push on the clutch pedal.
if the TOB is just starting to fail, the sound may go away when you lightly push the pedal, but if its really on its way out, when you push the pedal, it will get louder.
it kinda sounds like slushing water from the drivers seat.
also, check your transmission fluid. DO NOT use GL-5 fluid in the transmission. USE GL-4 [GL-5 fluid contains sulfur and other compounds that are awesome at lubricating a hypoid gear [rear end] but are corrosive to synchronizers]
