Well, Fred and I today hung out up here in Cinci. We did a lot, but I must say how impressed I truly am about his knowledge in oils! We did an oil change today, and to remove some of the sludge/varnish in the motor "which was substantial enough to see", he suggested me to put synthetic Mobil 1 ATF (auto transmission fluid) in my oil and let it idle for 40minutes before the oil change. We did that and after we changed the oil you could see a dramatic difference, not to mention how much quiter she was. I was very very impressed.
After that we went to the 1/4mile track and here are some pics of our day........hope you all enjoy!!!
Cinci Mini Meet coverage+Palmerwmd is the oil king
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Former_240_s14
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Former_240_s14
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Former_240_s14
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Former_240_s14
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Former_240_s14
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Former_240_s14
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BuudWeizErr
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Hmmm, if hes that good, maybe I should pose a question for him, if you don't mind.
My SR now has about 2K miles on it from the time I got it. I am on my third oil change on 10W30, and I want to switch to synthetic, probably redline. What weights and is there anything I should put in before I do the oil change? Any neat tricks like that ATF thing? I live in Southern California.... in the desert, if that matters.
Also, I heard (I think on this board) about putting a gallon of diesel fuel in with a normal tank will help clean some carbon deposits out of the engine. Any truth to that?
Thanks.
My SR now has about 2K miles on it from the time I got it. I am on my third oil change on 10W30, and I want to switch to synthetic, probably redline. What weights and is there anything I should put in before I do the oil change? Any neat tricks like that ATF thing? I live in Southern California.... in the desert, if that matters.
Also, I heard (I think on this board) about putting a gallon of diesel fuel in with a normal tank will help clean some carbon deposits out of the engine. Any truth to that?
Thanks.
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96_S14_SE
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Former_240_s14 wrote:I trust thicker oils alot more than thinner oils, and Mobil 1 is good stuff.
OK I see now... Id rather gain the marginal percent increase hehe, Ive been known to run 0w30 in the cool month of florida a cpl of times. I usually run 5w-30 in the cpl months surrounding that month (through it this season though) and then 10w30 for the rest of the year...
I have no qualms about using mobil 1 synth fluids... Synth atf is now down a buck to the same as the oils price hehe, its all I run any where oil is concerned. Only thing I would use over it would be redline fluids...
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OneFastStanza
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He likes to talk about the oil :dogpile
BuudWeizErr wrote:Hmmm, if hes that good, maybe I should pose a question for him, if you don't mind.
My SR now has about 2K miles on it from the time I got it. I am on my third oil change on 10W30, and I want to switch to synthetic, probably redline. What weights and is there anything I should put in before I do the oil change? Any neat tricks like that ATF thing? I live in Southern California.... in the desert, if that matters.
Also, I heard (I think on this board) about putting a gallon of diesel fuel in with a normal tank will help clean some carbon deposits out of the engine. Any truth to that?
Thanks.
Bud , don't put any diesel fuel in your tank.
When you say SR I assume SR20DET not SR20DE?;)Never use thinner than a 40weight in a turboed engine.Better yet a 50 weight.Some suggested oils:
MOBIL1 0w-40, 15w-50 (I like their new SuperSynformualtion , it seems for real and not a step back like when they switched to triSYn.)ValvolineSynPower 5w-40 or 20w-50 (Valvoline also makes some good racing oils in 20w-50 but stay away from them in a daily driver. Some results suggest theSynPower oils are not a real good choice for extended drain, but I dont do extended drain anyway and neither should you, I feel this are especially good choice oils, when your engine is less than clean inside, but you dont wanna run a group I basestock drive clean oil)
Stay away from Castrol Syntec for now.(They are currently improving their formulations a bit, but except for their 0w-30 which is too thin for your application, their Syntecs are outperformed by their bargain GTX:eek)AMSOIL in 10w40 and 20w-50 (mostly group IV and w/ some group V like MOBIL1)Redline 10w-40, 20w-50 (mostly group V basestock, but you do pay for that group V)
Any one of those oils will do well in your engine.
Turbo's especially need thicker oils, because, when the engine stops the flow of oil stops, but the heat is still coming for a while, in oils of low quality base stocks, or too thin a formulation this will result in baking/coking of your oil in your turbocharger and elsewhere.This is one major reason why many turbos need early rebuilds.A oil that is strong, will very much help prevent this.
Fred...
PS: Good write-up Rubin..
Yes, Palmerwnd is quite the 'lube' king!
Fred, haven't heard you mention Motul too much. I have no as far as the scientific jargon goes but this oil is IMO opinion THE OIL. If you drive your car like she's your backstabbing ex-gf, this is superior to anything out there, even Amsoil.
I bought some about a year ago on the net, switching from Superflo Gold and proceeded to drive my Q like a crazed cab driver for the next three months. When I drained her, the stuff looked as good as the day I poured it in. I'm sure that has a lot to do with my motor being squeaky clean (Exxon Superflo or Mobil 1 EVERY month and a half, with occassional marvel mystery oil and w20 flush). Even the dealer was surprised at how clean it was!
Fred, haven't heard you mention Motul too much. I have no as far as the scientific jargon goes but this oil is IMO opinion THE OIL. If you drive your car like she's your backstabbing ex-gf, this is superior to anything out there, even Amsoil.
I bought some about a year ago on the net, switching from Superflo Gold and proceeded to drive my Q like a crazed cab driver for the next three months. When I drained her, the stuff looked as good as the day I poured it in. I'm sure that has a lot to do with my motor being squeaky clean (Exxon Superflo or Mobil 1 EVERY month and a half, with occassional marvel mystery oil and w20 flush). Even the dealer was surprised at how clean it was!
Sope , yes MOTUL is know good stuff.But it is no widely available off the shelf, and hence when I make a list of recommended oils it, like otehr bouitque oils isnt in it.Redline falls into that class, which is why I dont mention it often .Anotehr member cbar has had good experiences with it that he emailed me.
<But>, since so few use it oil naalysis data are hard to come by, unlike as for the most common oils.Which is why I am confident in my off-the-shelf oils and some of the rare and very expensive oils like MOTUL and OMEGA wont make it on my list.
Fred..
<But>, since so few use it oil naalysis data are hard to come by, unlike as for the most common oils.Which is why I am confident in my off-the-shelf oils and some of the rare and very expensive oils like MOTUL and OMEGA wont make it on my list.
Fred..
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MasterMan
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wow im suprized.. u used the same oil i have been usein for about a year now.. and the transmission fluid thing, i have done that also. a buddy of mine works at an oil change place and he told me about it.. i guess it works cuz transmission fluid is a detergent (sp?) but your car looks nice man..
i didnt read all the posts but somone wanted to know about the engine bay cleaning.. i do this all the time.. all u do is get a bottle of greased lightning and a garden hose. get a bucket out and fill it with some car wash soap and fill with water.. now cover your airfilter (if u have aan aftermarket one) and the distrubitor. now hose the engine down (engine must be cold.. u could crack the block if its hot, but u knew that didnt u ) wash everything with the car was soap, then spray the greased lightning scrub and hose back down... then get a lawn blower out, blow the whole engine make shure u get everything good and dry.. then start your engine make shure everything works. thats it.. hope this help...
i didnt read all the posts but somone wanted to know about the engine bay cleaning.. i do this all the time.. all u do is get a bottle of greased lightning and a garden hose. get a bucket out and fill it with some car wash soap and fill with water.. now cover your airfilter (if u have aan aftermarket one) and the distrubitor. now hose the engine down (engine must be cold.. u could crack the block if its hot, but u knew that didnt u
) wash everything with the car was soap, then spray the greased lightning scrub and hose back down... then get a lawn blower out, blow the whole engine make shure u get everything good and dry.. then start your engine make shure everything works. thats it.. hope this help...Bud after re reading your post a question of yours I missed:
No, need to to do anything special like a flush before switching to synthetic.
but if your engine is not clean inside then:
-Sludge problems (that arrnt' bad enuff to the valve covers off): envirolution engine flush ,or MotorVac or similiar service-Varnish problems: Run your last week before the oil change with a bottle of "Seafoam" added to your crankcase, safe + gentle but will be succcessful after a few applications.
Fred...
No, need to to do anything special like a flush before switching to synthetic.
but if your engine is not clean inside then:
-Sludge problems (that arrnt' bad enuff to the valve covers off): envirolution engine flush ,or MotorVac or similiar service-Varnish problems: Run your last week before the oil change with a bottle of "Seafoam" added to your crankcase, safe + gentle but will be succcessful after a few applications.
Fred...
lessthanjakejohn wrote:What is extended drain?
Extended Drain describes the current practice by many to extend their oil change interval much beyond 3000/4000 miles.
Due to the improvements in oil in the last decade this has become more popular as many manufacturers recommend oil changes every 7500 miles.But remember : No one is interested in making your car last much past teh powertrain warranty except you.
many modern oils especially syntyhetics can maintain their basic lubrication properties and even some of their additives longer, sometimes much longer than 3000 miles.
So in extended darin some folks change their oil every 4500 with a non synthetic and some even every 8000 with a synthetic (to make up for the more expensive oil).
And while some get away with it, with little ill effect, others suffer predictable results.For example those infamous Toyota V6 sludge problems would not have occured at 3000 mile change intervals, but toyota recommends 7500.......
Also they recommend oils too thin, 5w-30 exasperating the problem.I am convinced, the so-called Toyota sludge monster V6's would have zero problems if run with synthetic 40 weight oils in 3000/4000 mile drain intervals.
Also since oil changes are such a small part of car expenses I see litttle reason to gamble with our engines and extend intervals to 5k, 6k, 10k as some do.Some oils can handle longer intervals better than others.
But even with premium syn oils and good filters, I usually run 2700 to 3600 miles between changes depedning on the portion of my driving thats hiway.
Fred..
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Former_240_s14
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I really wish we woulda got pics of our cars all together to show the mini meet. I forgot to take a pic of Josh's SWEEET Spec V. It has an aluminum flyhwheel, new clutch, AEM CAI, and underdrive pulley.
My friend Joe has a 2k1 Elentra, its nice and it does the job for my friend. Its not a sports car by anymeans, but it was what Joe wanted and thats all that matters.
Everyone knows Fred and my car, still same old S14 and Q45. : )
My friend Joe has a 2k1 Elentra, its nice and it does the job for my friend. Its not a sports car by anymeans, but it was what Joe wanted and thats all that matters.
Everyone knows Fred and my car, still same old S14 and Q45. : )
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lessthanjakejohn
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95silviase wrote:so basically seafoam kinda does the same thing as donig the ATF thing eh?
Not quite:Seafoam is safer and will evaporate out of your oil by itself, negating most overfill and oil dilution concerns.ATF works against both varnish and sludge, but should be removed much sooner as it doesnt evaporate out of the oil.Also seafoam works on varnish only.
Fred...