well i bought it off some dude in l.a. and wen i was in l.a. (im in Nevada now) it was always running how i thought i should have. then i come to reno and it never warmed up even when driving. so i decided to check if it had one and sure enought it didnt. and no i put it in right, i didnt put it in backwardsheartofaskyline wrote:did you put it in backwords? why didnt it have a thermo to begin with?
if i could i would..Kragen dont do free engine check light diagnostics no more lol90gtpony wrote:Check the code on the ecu. It should narrow it down a little more. It wont pin point it but it will be a little better than just guessing.
I take it that place is a shop? You know you can do it your self. In your passenger side kick panel is your ecu. Take the passenger side door sill off or just pull out the clips from the front of it and then pop the plastic rivet from the kick panel out. Also in the back of the kick panel is a small philips screw by the firewall area. Remove the ecu with two 10mm bolts. On the top of the ecu there is a little LED and knob to turn. You will need a small flat head to turn it.Nismo775 wrote:
if i could i would..Kragen dont do free engine check light diagnostics no more lol
That is the only thing i can think of that would narrow it down a little more. What you can do is disconnect your negative terminal for say 10 sec and see if the light comes back on with that crazy stuff. I think it will but its worth a try. Its really not that hard to do the ecu thing. It should take all of 20 min. at the most.Nismo775 wrote:yeah its a parts store like Autozone O'rylies exc.
i will try that. but is their anyother thing i should check before i have to do all that with the ecu???
i will do that. thanks a lot for the help90gtpony wrote:
That is the only thing i can think of that would narrow it down a little more. What you can do is disconnect your negative terminal for say 10 sec and see if the light comes back on with that crazy stuff. I think it will but its worth a try. Its really not that hard to do the ecu thing. It should take all of 20 min. at the most.
but wen im driving it it warms up and when its at idle it goes back to cold. u think its the water pump? or did i just happen to buy a F**ked up thermostat?93240cooool wrote:water pump maybe??
You cant just bleed it from the bleader screw. This is a Nissan. If you are having a problem with air in the system then you have to bleed this differently from other cars, its a Nissan.Nismo775 wrote:The wire that connects to the sensor is broken. but i put gorilla tape (for now) to keep it on and make sure it doesnt try to come off
i bled it. I turned the car on and loosend the bult to blead the air. with the radiator cap off. it was on for about 5 min. and still nothing came out that hole. so then i tightend up the bolt drove the car around the block, came back and loosend the bolt again(while the car was running)and then some coolant came out and thats when i tightend it. and ofcourse filled the radiator with more 50/50 from prestone
if its not supposed to be bled like this then why does it say to on all the other forums posted? i just want my car to run rightblacksrjdm wrote:
You cant just bleed it from the bleader screw. This is a Nissan. If you are having a problem with air in the system then you have to bleed this differently from other cars, its a Nissan.
Go to pep boys and buy a raditor funnel with the built in cap.1. The way to do it is to take off the radiator cap.2. Replace cap with radiator funnel, fill funnel with coolant.3. Jack up just the front end till the wheels are about a foot off the ground.4. Start the car and keep the tach around 2500 rpms till the heat comes on full heat, while periodically checking the funnel to see if it has bubbled or taken any coolant.
Once the heat works at full temp. then you should be bled.
Ur also bleading through the screw incorrectly.U have to leave the cap on to keep the pressure up or you are just pulling air in. I have no doubt that you have lots of air in the system and that is your problem. So, leave the bleader alone, and blead the air out of it the way a nissan is supposed to be blead.
Refer to list of directions.
I dont know I guess all the techs here at the Nissan Dealer I work at are wrong then... I have never seen one of the techs here blead from the bleader. Thats how Nissan asks them to do it.Nismo775 wrote:
if its not supposed to be bled like this then why does it say to on all the other forums posted? i just want my car to run right
Shouldnt.NICONick wrote:Not to thread jack, but Im also having this problem, would a hole in my coolant overflow cause my system to get air in it? Its the hole in the overflow that almost all of the original plastic overflow's get....
Let me apologize now for the caps. I need to get my point accross.Ur just not gonna listen to me are u. THAT IS NOT HOW YOU BLEAD THE AIR OUT OF A NISSAN. This will be my last post on this thread....Nismo775 wrote:i know what you mean. i just did that i left the radiator cap on turned the car on and let it warm up then i loosend the bolt, the one to let the air out. i kno its common sense that u need pressure to let the air out. so i let the car warm up for about 5 minutes with the header on full blast then i went to loosen the bolt. i heard that your supposed to let it loose until coolant comes out. but nothing came out. the car was on for about 10 min. and nothing. and the car was still cold and the heater was blowing luke warm air ......man this is
STOP TRYING TO BLEAD IT THROUGHT THE BLEADER SCREW...I TOLD YOU ONCE ALREADY. Nissan asks their technicians here at Admiral Nissan in Jersey and from what I read on Assist (nissans tech program), they dont even mention the bleader valves. Just do it the right way and you'll get the air out. Your no getting coolant through the bleader because of the amount of air you have aready added to the system.blacksrjdm wrote:
Go to pep boys and buy a raditor funnel with the built in cap.1. The way to do it is to take off the radiator cap.2. Replace cap with radiator funnel, fill funnel with coolant.3. Jack up just the front end till the wheels are about a foot off the ground.4. Start the car and keep the tach around 2500 rpms till the heat comes on full heat, while periodically checking the funnel to see if it has bubbled or taken any coolant.
Once the heat works at full temp. then you should be blead.
Here is what the Chilton repair manual for the Stanza/200sx/240sx says about cooling system bleedingblacksrjdm wrote:
Let me apologize now for the caps. I need to get my point accross.Ur just not gonna listen to me are u. THAT IS NOT HOW YOU BLEAD THE AIR OUT OF A NISSAN. This will be my last post on this thread....
The proper way to blead the air out of a nissan is...
STOP TRYING TO BLEAD IT THROUGHT THE BLEADER SCREW...I TOLD YOU ONCE ALREADY. Nissan asks their technicians here at Admiral Nissan in Jersey and from what I read on Assist (nissans tech program), they dont even mention the bleader valves. Just do it the right way and you'll get the air out. Your no getting coolant through the bleader because of the amount of air you have aready added to the system.
If you cant get the air out, you may have another problem.