cdkilla's build thread

[float_6969]

This really sucks man. If I had the money to get my 4 port head rebuilt, I'd sell you my 8 port for cheap. Unless you want to give me $400 for my 8 port head, LOL. It does only have 30K miles since it was competely rebuilt, and has been port matched and polished, and had the butterfly valves removed. Prob not worth $400 though, LOL.

[cdkilla]

This really sucks man. If I had the money to get my 4 port head rebuilt, I'd sell you my 8 port for cheap. Unless you want to give me $400 for my 8 port head, LOL. It does only have 30K miles since it was competely rebuilt, and has been port matched and polished, and had the butterfly valves removed. Prob not worth $400 though, LOL.

Yeah, thanks man. Whats the difference between these 4 and 8 port heads everyone's talking about or where can I get more information on them?

[cdkilla]

UPDATE

Got the motor completly torn down.

Good news, looks like all the destruction remained in the combustion area and none of it made it's way into the oil pan. Crank and block look pristine.

Made a puller, drilled and tapped two holes in the crank gear to get that beast off. I've heard they like to seize on the crank nose. Mine definatly did. Ended up having to cut it off anyways, broke like 4 grade 8 bolts.

Dropped the block, new(used) pistons and crank off at the machine shop so my guy can mic everything and ball hone the cylinders as I do not own the equiptment to do so. He should be done by friday and then let the rebuild begin.

I haven't ordered anything yet, I wanted to make sure everything was ok internally first.

Plan on doing:Overhaul kit from rpmmachineARP head studsARP rod boltsHead(still looking)-Let me know if anyone has one for sale!SrT25 Let me know what you think.

[float_6969]

I didn't post this before, but that is DEFINATELY not detonation. The piston would have given up before making the combustion chamber look like that. There was SOMETHING in that combustion chamber. It wouldn't take but a few SECONDS to make the chamber look like that either.

You can use a pulsar head, you just need to swap the cams over from the DET and the plug in the #4 exhaust port on the back of the head.

[cdkilla]

I didn't post this before, but that is DEFINATELY not detonation. The piston would have given up before making the combustion chamber look like that. There was SOMETHING in that combustion chamber. It wouldn't take but a few SECONDS to make the chamber look like that either.

You can use a pulsar head, you just need to swap the cams over from the DET and the plug in the #4 exhaust port on the back of the head.

Yeah that's what I figured, looks to me more like a nut or something ended up in the combustion chamber. Nothing made it's way to the oil pan or out the exhaust. I didn't think detonation could cause this kind of damage so rapidly or the piston would have melted/burnt holes.

Thanks for the input!

[cdkilla]

Talked to the machine shop, everything is all in spec.

Just got to get some tax money so I can order the rebuild kit now that I know I can run standard bearings/rings.

Told my wife I'd have this motor running in the 240 before she gives birth, giving me 5-6 months. Wish me luck! I know how many things can go wrong if your not carefull, so I'll need your guys help in the near future!

Thanks NICO for being such a great help!!!

[cdkilla]

Update.

Got a set of standard bearings from my buddy for dirt cheap on account of him needing oversized bearings and he already had bought standard.

Ordered a set of rings and will be ordering a gasket kit shortly.

So as soon as I get some parts in I should be assembling her.

I also removed all the brake calipers/rotors/pads. I definatly need to do something about the brakes but I'm not sure which route to go. I was thinking maybe some upgraded front rotors and stock rear rotors with some hawk pads all the way around.

I'm just stoked to be working on it. Doing something. I haven't been able to do body work because my garage doesn't have heat and I haven't had parts to do anything.

[Ni$$@n240]

If I remember right the shop that sold you the motor said it had something wrong with the head. Shoulda just rebuilt it from the beginning and it woulda been running by now. But thats just me.

[cdkilla]

If I remember right the shop that sold you the motor said it had something wrong with the head. Shoulda just rebuilt it from the beginning and it woulda been running by now. But thats just me.

Hmmm must be Cassidy or Nick.

You would say that. But your wrong. They said the head had lifter tick, and after researching the motor, I found out they are notorious for lifter tick. So I decided to get it running and then narrow down which lifter was bad and replace it.

Whatever, I'm rebuilding it now and should have it together soon. Got most of my parts just sourcing some odds and ends.

[Ni$$@n240]

Im just giving you a hard time. When you gonna let me have a run at the honda cause you know a couple of sr20s a pull of premium one week before race wars haha.

[sjbsuperman1425]

Im just giving you a hard time. When you gonna let me have a run at the honda cause you know a couple of sr20s a pull of premium one week before race wars haha.

lol i remember when I first watched that movie i had nooo idea what an SR20 was or anything, or even a Supra for that matter! I was way more interested in the Honda's and neons back then.

to cdkilla, good to hear you are getting it back together. Pics sure sound like a good idea about now

[Ni$$@n240]

lol i remember when I first watched that movie i had nooo idea what an SR20 was or anything, or even a Supra for that matter! I was way more interested in the Honda's and neons back then.

to cdkilla, good to hear you are getting it back together. Pics sure sound like a good idea about now

Yea what I dont understand theres no nissans in his garage. So in that movie so they must have been doing hybird swaps

[cdkilla]

Ricers!

Yeah pic's would be nice, but my wife took the camera and she's out of town for the weekend.

Started assembling it last night. Got the crank in and turns smooth. I then got the first piston in and couldn't turn the motor over with my breaker bar. Turns out my bearings were oversized and mis-packaged. Upon inspection of the bearings, they are clearly labled .25 over, just must have got stuck in the wrong box or NAPA gave me the wrong size. Anyways, can't go much further till I get new rod bearings Tuesday. I did get the ARP rod bolts in, pretty simple.

[Ni$$@n240]

Did you gap the rings?

[cdkilla]

Did you gap the rings?

Gapping rings is for sissys.

[cdkilla]

Pistons with new rings and ARP rod bolts installed.

Block with crank installed.

Intake manifold with secondary butterflies removed along with the rod.New ride.171 n/a hp at the wheels.
Modified by cdkilla at 4:14 AM 3/29/2010

[sjbsuperman1425]

B18_ _ ???

looking good man, keep up the good work

[cdkilla]

B18_ _ ???

looking good man, keep up the good work

I'm really new to honda's lol. b16 with integra type r cams and a tune.

[r34 gtr]

The E30 BMW wheels are gangsta.

[cdkilla]

The E30 BMW wheels are gangsta.

Yeah. Pretty much.

[float_6969]

You do know when you put ARP rod bolts in you have to check the big ends of the rods to make sure they're still round, right?

[cdkilla]

Yeah, I've been told that. Totally forgot to do it though. I do know however, that the bearings are the wrong size as they are stamped on the underside of the bearing. I'll have to get the t-gauges from my dad and check that for sure before I put it together.

[cdkilla]

Measured the rod's tonight, round!

Got the jist of the bottom end assembled tonight as well. Turns over much better with the proper size bearings in the rods...

I've got everything to assemble the rest of the bottom end and the motor for that matter, minus the head. Can't seem to source one. If any one has a head they'd like to part with, give me an e-mail.

[float_6969]

Were they really? If yours came out round, then I may just swap mine and not worry about checking them.

[cdkilla]

Were they really? If yours came out round, then I may just swap mine and not worry about checking them.

Yup. If you really think about it, there is no reason that changing the rod bolts should affect anything.

[float_6969]

There are reason's, it just doesn't seem to happen on our rods. It DOES happen on lots of other motors. From what I understand the part the presses into the upper part of the rod isn't necessarily the same size and so when it's pressed into the rod it can cause it to deform. My engine builder says he's seen ARP rod bolts deform lots of rods. It's always minor, but it's enough to have caused a problem later on down the road.

[r34 gtr]

Just the same, I think everyone who swaps to ARP rod bolts ought to have the big ends checked for roundness. Its cheap, and its not really something you want to pass up on. Something that is easy and costs you $20 now is much better than having to re-do the whole bottom end later.

[sjbsuperman1425]

Just the same, I think everyone who swaps to ARP rod bolts ought to have the big ends checked for roundness. Its cheap, and its not really something you want to pass up on. Something that is easy and costs you $20 now is much better than having to re-do the whole bottom end later.

[sjbsuperman1425]

Just the same, I think everyone who swaps to ARP rod bolts ought to have the big ends checked for roundness. Its cheap, and its not really something you want to pass up on. Something that is easy and costs you $20 now is much better than having to re-do the whole bottom end later.

[cdkilla]

Just the same, I think everyone who swaps to ARP rod bolts ought to have the big ends checked for roundness. Its cheap, and its not really something you want to pass up on. Something that is easy and costs you $20 now is much better than having to re-do the whole bottom end later.

Defnatly aggree with you on that one.