Catch can Problem. New routing????

[s13ontap]

ohhh i gets lots of oil past the can

[compactfean]

If its not connected to your intake and is still filling up your next thing to try would be some sort.of mod to reincorporate the stock can from block to vc. Im going to weld a bung in the back of the vc like the s14 and run it there instead of the t and see what happens.

[s13ontap]

Currently talking with a moroso rep as to their solutions. They might have a bolt on answer for me If the relocating doesn't work.
I Can't diagnose the problem yet cause I can't be driving right now. Timing is jumpy at idle and I have to find a vacuum leak... also.... My springs are too stiff for my valve shims, and are beating them up. Gotta get shims from tomei first. Then I can drive again and figure it out.

[compactfean]

Some tomei shims are genuine nissan shims so no difference in stiffness. What's happening?

[2_Liter_Turbo]

If you have solid lifters, make sure your cams are made for solid lifters. You cant run normal cams with them. Otherwise you'll destroy your shims, valve stems and eventually valve seats.

[codyace]

How is your PCV valve setup?

To suck that much in is an issue, good or bad however is the issue.

The ideal setup is to try and retrovit the OEM oil/air seperator between the rear block vent and valve cover T. It may not fit 100% as you have it, but I'm sure you could recreate it, or relocate it to make it work

[s13ontap]

cams are made for solid lifters.
No idea how my pcv valve is setup. The setup used to be stock motor + cams + 21psi and I never had a problem with the catch can. I think the air/oil seperator was just deleted. .... First SR was swapped into this car at least 5 years ago. ... But I can't remember why.... Probably just for a cleaner look. I didn't know s*** about cars when I started with this one back then.

Anyway, now with high power and moderate boost (500hp @16psi) IT's filling up. same location and everything.....

This motor has been dyno proven to 680whp at 28psi with a t42, And Eventually once I work the bugs out, I plan to have a high boost tune sitting about there again.... So I've gotta get these problems figured out this summer....

[2_Liter_Turbo]

BTW, what springs are you using? And make sure you don't have any rocker arm tilt. Each pair of valves need to be the same height. Always adjust in equal increments between the shim and guide for each rocker arm.

As for the PCV setup, make sure you have some sort of air/oil separator between the block and valve cover, and a vacuum source hooked up to your valve cover (intake is the stock source). Make sure you PCV valve is working too, if you can blow through it both ways, replace it. Because you are pressurizing your motor through that.

[s13ontap]

Super tech 116 pounds at seat

[s13ontap]

...dual...
for complete seal at high revs

[2_Liter_Turbo]

That's what I have.

[s13ontap]

how are they treating the shims?
What oil are you running? I'm running 20w50

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Well, I only have 250 miles on the motor since I put the new cams in, so we'll see, ha ha. I was running hydraulic cams (thought I had solid lifter cams) on my solid lifters, and it was destroying the shims. So far, the shims look fine after 250 miles (looked today, because I re-shimed everything to tighten up the tolerances). I am running Rotella 15w40 diesel oil (has a lot of zinc - non-synthetic) for the first 5,000 miles. Might switch to amsoil after that, because it still has a good amount of zinc in it, which is important for high film strength (good for high pressure points like stiff valve springs).

[compactfean]

Im running the purple 20/50 although in the winter my motor was much happier with 10/40 when it came to cold starts and running under normal operating temps. ill probably stay 10/40 this summer and use it year round. So far the 20/50 rp has givin me great results with the solid lifters witty over 10k on the motor.

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Royal Purple has the highest film strength in the industry. It's a great oil that people who don't understand oil dog on all time, lol. I used it for 160k miles on my SR before I tore it down. I may go back to it, it's between that or Asmoil for me.

[s13ontap]

I use redline, but I would use Royal purple just he same. IT would be whatever was available.

...Yeah I'm gonna try to get a bit tighter to fight the lash when I do the next valve adjustment this spring real soon here. just wanna try to get the catch can problem figured out before I do the valves. ( I have a suspicion, that the oil firing out my t fitting instead of rotating over the motor is starving my exhaust side for oil, and that combined with the timing issue making my exhaust side run hot may have something to do with the premature wear on y valve shims)

[compactfean]

I highly doubt your ventilation setup would cause cam wear. The oil squirters squirt more than the breathing system could ever drip on your cams/ rockers/shims.

[compactfean]

Have you done any testing yet? Remove line to intake? Leak down test?

[s13ontap]

GAve the car a bit of cruising time today, bit of a "kick off the winter dust" gonna disconnect the intake source from the catch can tomorrow or soon, and try to see if it still fills quick. gotta go get new stickers for the plate tomorrow.

[s13ontap]

Tried a few things. but I think this is what I'm going to do.

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/235851-sr ... up-11.html
Found this thread addressing a slight hp boost. ...like i care, But this should route the vapors only to my catch can. If it doesn't completely solve it I'm gonna get a catch can with a breather filter on it instead.

[s13ontap]

I just noticed I have no PCV valve on the intake side of this motor. Buddy that built it said he didn't run one, or a catch can. Is it necissary? Some race motor guys i talked to said the same thing

[2_Liter_Turbo]

I would run one. Crank case pressure can ruin a motor... Ask how I know, ha ha.

[compactfean]

Its not necessary but for a dd is pretty important because it prevents sludge build up and condensation and contamination in your oil.

[compactfean]

^^ I have a brake booster check valve in line of the pcv to prevent that.

[s13ontap]

cause I capped my intake line, and alot of pressure was coming out from the valve cover, just at idle. If i put my thumb over it for a few seconds, I could feel the pressure building.

So the planned setup is to weld a fitting to the back exhaust corner of my valve cover (drill out some holes on the baffle on the inside, inline with the new bung), this goes to the catch can, then to intake. Meanwhile, the T fitting is replaced by a 90 and run to the crankcase 45.

If I'm still sucking oil after that I'll switch to a vented catch can.

What do you think?