Catastrophic engine failure NOW WITH CONCLUSION!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

UP DATES!


Got my engine back from the machine shop. The first one was taking WAY too long (it went 2 months without them even touching it), and they couldn't give me even a rough estimate for when they would get to it, so I pulled that s*** out of there in favor of another machine shop. They took a while too, but called to give me updates and they WERE making progress, so I appreciated that. They even came in on Saturday so I could pick the engine up. Best part? The price. $574 for a complete engine and head rebuild. I supplied every part except the freeze plugs, 2 intake and exhaust valves, and the thrust bearings.
So, now that I have essentially the best short block money can buy, it's time to get down to business.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?dep ... %201990-93
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?dep ... r=04-66000
No more f*** around!

I plugged the oil squirters (I guess the new pistons have long skirts and might hit them? They were designed to be used without squirters), cleaned the head threads, and installed the ARP head studs.

Oh yeah, the pistons are used.
Going with a 99 block and an 01 head, I was instructed to buy the head gasket based on what head I had. It seems to cover up a few ports on the block, but I guess that's normal?



Long way to go!

[alms24sebring]

Uh oh, you might want to double check on that head gasket. But, that is a great price. Sorry to hear of the delay. Theres a shop around here that gets motors in and out within 2 weeks (assuming parts can be found easily). They are known for building pro stock motors too so they knew what they were doing but couldnt beat that price. Can you get shorter squirters?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I could cut the current ones down, but again, I was missing one on the #3 cylinder so I'd have to source one.

[Razi]

I'd try to keep the oil squirters.
Cool and oiled pistons are happy pistons.
Drivetrain looks solid!

[alms24sebring]

Not in stock at a Dealer? Aftermarket? I would probly want those

[PapaSmurf2k3]

The one thing I've learned is that when Jeremy at Flyin Miata tells you to do something, you do it. Homeboy says don't run oil squirters, so I'm not doing it.

Think of it as 4 rather large oil leaks in the engine. Plugging them will increase my oil pressure across the board... and perhaps that is more important when running an engine like this? Who knows, I've got plenty of other stuff to worry about.

[Razi]

The oiling system was designed with the oil squirters in mind, so it's not really a leak.
I'd keep them, especially on a hot turbocharged engines, as they can reduce chances of detonation.
It's probably okay when just driving around on the street, but there are reasons why so many engines come with oil squirters.

The GT-R's VR38 comes with one, of course. And using high volume oil squirters was one of the reasons why Mazda was able to run their 13:1 compression SkyActiv motor on 87 octane fuel without blowing things up. (I think their oil pressure is increased whenever the pistons need extra cooling.)

[PapaSmurf2k3]

http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?dep ... %201990-93

Wiseco pistons are widely recognized as some of the finest performance pistons in the world - and they make these exclusively for Flyin` Miata! These are not the same Wisecos you`ll find elsewhere, but are stronger and quieter thanks to years of gradual refinements. We even use higher quality rings for better sealing.

Forged from high-strength 2618 alloy to deal with the abuse of a high-boost motor, these were recently reworked with a strutted design for massive strength. They`re probably going to be the strongest thing in your motor - this is a 1200 hp slug. The profile of the piston is also designed to minimize piston rock, making them much quieter than most forged pistons.

The skirts are given a moly coating for low friction, and there`s a ceramic coating on top of the piston to protect it from the heat of high power. This keeps the heat in the combustion chamber where it makes horses, not in the oil where it makes the baby dinosaurs cry. We also designed them to run without the factory oil squirters, which gives higher oil pressure, lower oil consumption and higher power levels due to a drop in pumping losses.

Perfect for extreme use, such as high boost operation. Use with our Carrillo rods for a bulletproof bottom end. This combination weighs 1/4 lb per cylinder less than stock. Pistons available in 1mm overbore with 9:1 compression ratio for turbo applications. Includes rings and tapered tool steel wrist pins. Sold in sets of four. We can build an engine to your own specifications if you`d like.

[alms24sebring]

I see your point but I would agree with Razi. Maybe use thicker oil or some other way to get more pressure with squirters.

Heres a good post and #5
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=16999

^ Edit : although that would satisfy me enough, especially if it was already put together. Ok you win.

[Razi]

Oh right, those have ceramic coatings.
That'd make me feel better about running with no oil squirters.

[dickie]

nice thread haha. i just caught up. a friend of mine drove a turbo miata the other day, he's used to 450whp jz engines in porkers like cressidas and z30s. he said he liked it and is actually contemplating buying it. can't wait to see it run.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah I need to update this thread a little bit. The block is mostly together on the engine stand, I just have to put the intake manifold on, then some of the belt driven accessories (and belts), pull it off the engine stand, install the rear main seal, re-install the clutch and trans, and it's ready to drop in. Hopefully I'll be taking it to NOPI Atlanta.

[alms24sebring]

Any new changes with the setup you are thinking about? Ganna have it just the way it was or looking for more/less while the motor is already out?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Fully built. 300+ at the wheels.

The weakest link will be the transmission.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Prepped for oil return bung surgery!

So much easier when the oil pan is outside the car.

The majority of the time spent on this engine build was spent scraping gaskets and these damn channels. Such a pain. All done now though. Good thing too. Slipping with the razor and slicing gashes into my fingers and hands was starting to make me look like a cutter.

I have a few more pics I need to pull off the camera, but she's all back together now.

[krash]

Noice. Hopefully I can get my engine to this point soon

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Oil pan on.

Pulled the cam sprockets off to remove the backing plate in order to put the water pump on, and replace the cam seals.



Time to put everything back on and do the timing belt

Did everything, spun it and put the tensioner on, and somehow the exhaust cam was off a tooth. Damn.

Had to pull it off and do it again... this time I had a friend come over so one of us could hold the cams in position while the other put the belt on.

Bell Engineering's crappy coating was flaking off inside this water pipe. I cleaned it all out and then scraped the gasket surface.
Then goes on the lower intake manifold!

^I like that pic
Next, fuel injectors went in.


Much easier install being out of the car. These new 600cc injectors don't require adapter clips like my old 550s did.

Knock sensor and oil line installed.

Fiddley bits on the back installed. EGR tube, coolant temp sensor housing, etc.

Upper intake manifold put on.


This brings us to tonight. Front timing covers installed. Alternator installed, water pump pulley installed.

Go to put the turbo on and remembered I boogered up one of the nuts (from the bottom right of the turbo... its super tight there), so I replaced it with a crimp nut I had leftover from an order I made for the 240.
Pulled the turbo back off in an attempt to open up some clearance.



Torqued... clearance was improved a little, but it still kinda sucks.

Now, normally you can't really install the engine with the turbo on, but I'm going to give it a shot. The clearance to the sides of the engine bay is super tight. While I had the engine out I busted out the sawsall and improved it by about 2 inches in the back and the side, so hopefully it can go in.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Had to pull the pan back off to put the rear main seal cage in. Suuucked. That rear cage to pan seal compresses A LOT.


I then immediately installed the flywheel, neglecting to install the rear main seal and the trans dust shield. I even wire brushed, brake cleaned, and loc-tited the bolts. Had to pull it off and do it again. Doh. Having an off night. Peyton wasn't the only one.


Clutch and all back on. Sorry for the blurry pics, I was kinda in a rush tonight.

Then I turned flash on. Greased the pivot ball and the throwout bearing shaft. Also put a touch on the splines after the pic was taken.


And then they got married. Managed to find the only sharp surface on the trans (vin tag) while I was picking it up and walking it across my garage. Managed to slice my hand open a bit. I rubbed some dirt on it and it stopped bleeding (no joke).

[sx moneypit]

Looking good ,James!

[krash]

talk about progress. Wish I could have swung by and helped. On a side note, I gave that test something to cry about

When is it going in? Or did you throw it in there already?

[WDRacing]

I'm pro oil squirter as well. Cooling the pistons is just a good idea, at this point it doesn't matter though I suppose. Just saying for the record, oil squirters ARE a good idea. I suggest at least a single stage water injection system, something with a small nozzle just to keep the detonation away, regardless of tune. It's simply too cheap not to do.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah I actually still have a meth injection kit that I need to put to good use.

Engine is hopefully going in today, although I'm having some issues corralling the help. People I've done lots of favors for seem to be pre-occupied with things like vacuuming their houses today. Bishes. I've got a few amateurs coming over though, we'll see.

[WDRacing]

Just FYI, use windshield washer fluid that is good for -30F plus 1 bottle of HEET per gallon and that will give a 50/50 mix of water/meth. Way cheaper then actually buying methanol, last I saw it was 7.50 a friggin gal.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Ha don't worry, I'm fully aware
I priced/sourced all that out already. Its tough to get meth around here.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Shield your eyes, you're about to see some ugly mugs.


We had a crew of 4 for the engine install party (complete with pizza and beers).
The dude in work clothes got a little happy with the camera.


A few nuts and bolts came up missing, and we had a hell of a time lining up the driver's side engine mount, but the pre-work I did cutting the engine bay sills REALLY paid off. Everything went in without hitting the side/back.


She's in! Definitely going to put in some hours tomorrow and hopefully get it cranked tomorrow night.

[dickie]

love that feeling before you fire it for the first time. gotta take a vid and post it.

[float_6969]

Yea, it'll be exciting to see how it all goes. Did you get the downpipe hooked back up? How did that go?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

The downpipe went on fine!

[alms24sebring]

Im excited for you mang!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

It should be running tomorrow. I was supposed to go to NOPI Atlanta, but I had to work pretty super late today, so I don't think that is going to happen. On the plus side, I get to button up the car!