catastrophic engine failure part II

[ca18det240hatch]

Ok, i was ca18detpowered before...but with the changeover to vista i lost my password...and i need to ask a few questions,,and i think itll be awhile before the web master gets me my password

anyways, got it torn down....float...you were wrong...it was #2 conrod bearing, melted to oblivion.

the biggest problem tho was that i dont think it EVER saw an oilchange while it was in japan. The inside of the motor is COATED with tar, about 3/16" thick....disgusssstinggg...

so, my problem is, HOW THE HELL, do you get the timing belt drive off the end of the crank...the one in front of the oil pump.....

thats my only real problem at the moment. .

thanks in advance guys

[jt15833]

i too, tried for a very long time to get this off, using every method i read/heard about with little luck. some ppl say it slides of (use penetrating oil), but mine didnt. some say pry from all sides with screwdrivers / pry bars. no luck. some say heat it then remove, but mine didnt come. finally, i drilled 2 holes opposite of eachother, tapped them, then used a slide hammer and 2 bolts to remove it. it was by far the cleanest / most effective method. it would be very hard to damage something important with this method, mainly the crank. you will of course, need a new timing cog. heres the remains of mine.

PS - make sure you get the new timing belt guide peice that goes infront and behind the cog before you put the new cog on, or else youll have to remove the cog again. you can reuse the old one however. its skinny and looks like a donut, with a small rectangle cut out on the inside. id recomend new woodruff key too.

[ca18det240hatch]

yah i figured i was gonna have to go to extreme measures....

i hope that the crank is even salvageable.....anybody have any luck with this sort of thing? my #2 conrod bearing was half not even there, the other half was covering half the surface of the journal.....anybody get a wreck like that machined?

kinda worried....bores look ok tho. If i need another crank....is the ca18de crank same?

[float_6969]

I meant 3rd from the back. Sorry about the confusion there. I guess that means I'm still right!

A decent machine shop should be able to fix it, you'll just have to run oversized bearings.

If they can't the CA18DE crank is the same and will work just fine.

[r34 gtr]

i require pictures.

...and that timing gear can kiss the fattest part of my a$s.

[float_6969]

That's quite a lot of surface area to cover there Tim...

[r34 gtr]

dont we all know it. i didnt want that thing to get off easy though, as it was on there tighter than a frog's bunghole. (i know this because ive experienced both)

[ca18det240hatch]

Ok...good that the ca18de crank is same. Now....what have you guys noticed about your bores...for the most part do they stay pretty decent? anybody forced to bore out?

they look good...but looks can be decieving.

ill take pics of the sludge asap.....you will puke. the smell of the oil when i drained it...was.....horriffic.

anyhoo, updates when i get the crank and block to a machine shop

also...that gear....can dealer still get it? expensive? if not...where get.....stupid gear *grumble grumble *(&^&#^*

[tyrannix]

my machine guys managed to get one off (i had to destroy the oil pumps on 2 engines to drop the cranks)

heat up the cog with a torch so it expands, then tap with a mallet to loosen it up

should just slide off after that

CJ

[r34 gtr]

mine wasnt so easy. even with heating it up via torch and wailing on it with a very large hammer it wouldnt budge. i had to drill and tap it twice, because the first time it bent the arp bolts i used...and i had to use some 1/4 inch beasts.

my bored looked great but i still went and honed them. thats probably all you need to have done, unless you pwnd one.

[float_6969]

Mine were straight and true, but I got something into the motor on mine, and I was forced to bore it out anyway.

[r34 gtr]

hah! something raped your engine.

[ca18det240hatch]

so when you honed them, you didnt need to get oversized piston did you? what kinda compression did you see after it was all said and done.

just found a ca18de crankshaft mint for 30$ canadian (=

screw machining the other one, ill use this one.

so if the bores are all well and fine, i just need an oilpump and im good to go.

[ca18datsun510]

honing doesnt increase size, it just prepps the cylinder walls. boring changes diameter.

[hazw8st]

Mine were straight and true, but I got something into the motor on mine, and I was forced to bore it out anyway.

Same here..............had 2 bore out mine......

[ca18det240hatch]

well my bores LOOK ok and i cant see such a short bore deforming too much....so hopefully just a hone. Also, another question, is the ca18de oilpump same as ca18det?

waterpump is for ca18et?

[r34 gtr]

oil pump is the same, and you would be correct with the ca18et water pump.

my engine has fantastic compression by the way.

[float_6969]

What? Tim's retarded?!?!?

I bored it out to 83.5mm and got forged pistons.

CA18DE oil pump.

CA18ET water pump.

[ca18det240hatch]

good 2 know.

im buying a kit, from importperformanceparts.net

comes with forged pistons, all bearings, all gaskets.

[dash]

you can run your fingernail up the cylinder wall until you hit the lip.The "ridge" will give you an idea of how bad the bore is worn.... worse case is at the exhaust side of the block.

I've drilled/tapped CA crank timing cog/used a puller to remove for years. Reuse same old gear.

With that much sludge I'd have the parts dipped at the machine shop. Passages might be blocked

[bentvalves]

I had to cut my pulley cog and split it with a hammer/chissel after all other methods were exhuasted.

[float_6969]

Mine came right off w/a little PB blaster and a tap of a hammer....

[r34 gtr]

stop rubbing it in!

[ca18det240hatch]

ok heres another question, since i totally F*(#ed my #2 conrod bearing, and if all works out it isnt hooped....but if the conrod/cap is hooped...is ca18de the same casting? weaker, stronger....

thanks again for all the help you guys, really appreciate it.

[float_6969]

Same thing buddy...

[ca18det240hatch]

niceee

well heres more yet...lolim reading the stampings on this crank. ive already confirmed its a ca18 crank cuz of the d42

now im reading the end, and the fsm says those are the grades of the bore....

mine says 1111 11, the last part im sure is just a improper die used and it actually means just 1 not 11

so...do/did any of your cranks say 1?

according to the fsm, that is one grade away from the smallest grade, 0 being teh smallest....does this mean that my crank has already been ground?

[float_6969]

The KA that I just put new rod bearings in had all 1's....

[bentvalves]

my crank had roman numerals stamped into it......

II = 2

[float_6969]

I was talking about the numbers stamped on the block next to the main journals.

[ca18det240hatch]

hmm, intersting. The fsm also says that the block also has grade numbers stamped on each journal, im gonna check that out tomoro