Can you say; Catastrophic Failure, Boys and Girls?

[Q-ZILLA]

Oops, this isn't suppose to be in the oil pan...



Rods held up, but a connecting rod cap bolt appears to have snapped. Happened while steppin' into it just after 4th gear shift... Yes, I almost cried on the side of the road.



Good news is that I will be building another motor, this time with 8.5:1 compression. Going to get as many ARP bolts in it as possible. Shopping for parts and a JDM engine currently. If you're wondering... YES! IT WAS WORTH IT! Not a week went by when at least 2-3 times someone pulled up trippin' out on My Baby, including cops... Now I have an excuse to build a better motor for My Baby... Last race I won was a 30 roll, against a CTS-V, tuned up, first gen.

Just a side-note; I'm thinking when I lost a freeze-plug, couple years back, engine got way overheated. May have played a part in the above disaster, but maybe not. Let me know what you think. Engine had almost 100k on it, very hard miles I might add. s*** happens!

[paranoidjack]

OH man so sorry! I've been there: here's my beauty in her "final" resting place.

[elwesso]

I had a 1st gen CTS-V and for a Q to be beat that is VERY impressive!! That's AWESOME.

Catastrophic failures seem bad on these cars, but you can get junkyard engines for $500 all day long, and the blocks are almost always solid so having a complete set of spare parts like accessories, injectors, hoses, etc is always nice..

I can't believe you busted the engine up like that.. I don't think I've ever seen anyone destroy a Q engine like that!! Just seeing what people do in the VH forum under boost, seems like this might be a weird situation.

[Q-ZILLA]

I had noticed a while back that DRFTBLD, had replaced his connecting rod bolts with ARP's on his THOR Project... Guess he already knew, or had some insight on it. Anyway, I'm not going to sweat it too much, what am I going to do, sell my car... NOT! This block, looking up inside, is grenaded. Hole in the side, passenger, just above the oil pan, not to mention the 3 inch hole through the oil pan. Now that I know the weak link... I'll probably order a JDM, rebuild it, then swap out. Wiseco and CP both have LC pistons for the VH. Think I'll stick with the original forged rods. BTW, they really do have oil squirters! I just love this car and engine. I may have had a boost spike mixed in there as well, as I had just changed out the spring, trying to get it "just right", but my gauge shows 14.5 psi. I really think if the connecting rod bolts are upgraded, with lower compression pistons, the VH will make over 800hp. I think I was in the 550 or so range. I am jonesing for my car though!

[Q-ZILLA]

Just seeing what people do in the VH forum under boost, seems like this might be a weird situation.

That's why I was wondering about the overheating of the motor when I lost the freeze plug. Don't know if that actually caused long term damage or not. It melted the knock sensors.

Sidenote: That was the second CTS-V first gen I beat. The first one wasn't tuned up, easier to beat him. Never got the chance to race a second gen one... YET.

[elwesso]

As many VH's as we've seen under boost, I don't think that the rods or rod bolts are really a weak link. I'm not saying it's a bad idea to do this when you're rebuilding it, however I don't think we should start telling others that this is truly a weak link because I'm not convinced of it.

I doubt the overheat did much either but that sounds like it was cooked good if you melted the KS. Hard to say..

I can't wait to see your build on the engine, that's something I've always wanted to do was build a stupidity-level VH.

[BCC93QT]

Congrats! You have achieved what I have been trying to do for the past 60k miles. After countless redlines and time trials on the same road every morning I thought I had lost all hope on blowing this engine up!

[Q-ZILLA]

A
fter countless redlines and time trials on the same road every morning I thought I had lost all hope on blowing this engine up!

You're just not putting enough effort into it!
I guess at least now, I'll have the chance to build this motor the way I really wanted in the first place... Something around 700-750, with a trans-brake.

[LEMHEAD16]

Glad to see you are taking it well! It hurts a little when a project fails, but when it rises from the ashes nothing feels better.

good luck with the rebuild.

[Skibane]

I can't wait to see your build on the engine

Yep.

Q-ZILLA, you are an inspiration to us all!

[Q451990]

Dayum! Sorry to hear about that kind of failure... you never want to see that pile on your garage floor. Like everyone else, I'm looking forward to seeing your rebuild though.

Heath

[maxnix]

Just don't think the knock sensors are precise enough to run the boost these could handle.

The Aussies have all the knowledge about that. JDM intake and exhaust manifolds would help some.

[elwesso]

The stock KS are fine for running boost, plenty of people here have done it. It would seem to me that if it were detonation related that wouldn't mean it would throw a rod through the block, but rather you'd blow out ring lands, blow a hole through the piston, etc, but not something related to the lower end.

[paranoidjack]

Yeah, my blowup was pretty bad too...

[Q-ZILLA]

Yeah, my blowup was pretty bad too...

Damn! Do you think? Christ, you broke rods, not that the outcome isn't the same for each of us. I'm guessing we're in an Elite Club here on NICO... Dumbasses that blew up their Q's... Does this mean we get a FREE T-SHIRT or something from NICO?

The stock KS are fine for running boost, plenty of people here have done it.

For me, I think it was the connecting rod bolt, but I'm not a forensic auto engineer either. Something broke loose, obviously... Seems like a lot of wierd s*** happens to me anyway...

JDM intake and exhaust manifolds would help some.

Thanks for the + input! I'm looking at a JDM engine and headers from Mazworks, along with other misc parts.

[paranoidjack]

Yeah, my blowup was pretty bad too...

Damn! Do you think? Christ, you broke rods, not that the outcome isn't the same for each of us. I'm guessing we're in an Elite Club here on NICO... Dumbasses that blew up their Q's... Does this mean we get a FREE T-SHIRT or something from NICO?

Free Tshirt? Seems to me that NICO has a conspiracy to blow the engines of those members who use their screen names as vanity plates....

[paranoidjack]

Yeah, my blowup was pretty bad too...

Damn! Do you think? Christ, you broke rods, not that the outcome isn't the same for each of us. I'm guessing we're in an Elite Club here on NICO... Dumbasses that blew up their Q's... Does this mean we get a FREE T-SHIRT or something from NICO?

Free Tshirt? Seems to me that NICO has a conspiracy to blow the engines of those members who use their screen names as vanity plates....

EDIT: Btw, my car STILL DROVE....!

Drove from where the two truck left it up to where I was going to pull the motor...felt weak as sin but still drove! Making some HORRENDOUS noises, my friend was telling me to rev it up and blow that b**** out totally, but I didn't want to a) do any damage to my transmission, or b) have a part fly out of the engine at 6,500 rpm and kill someone or damage another component.

[Q-ZILLA]

Wow, that's insane that it still drove. I haven't dared to try to turn it over. I think NICO should make up shirts for the Elite group of engine destroyers. BCC930T is actually trying to blow his up and hasn't accomplished that mission yet.

[IThaJ0kaI]

Thanks for the + input! I'm looking at a JDM engine and headers from Mazworks, along with other misc parts.

Is mazworx going to make headers for Q45s? I know the conversion headers they sell are no where near close.

[Q-ZILLA]

Is mazworx going to make headers for Q45s? I know the conversion headers they sell are no where near close.

I have to call them. I wasn't sure if they would work, but it's at least a start in the right direction. I might have to cut them up and have them bent to fit. I'll find out soon enough. They look pretty nice though.

[elwesso]

If you're going to cut them up anyway, you might as well just start fresh. Since the VH45 has tube style headers I've heard of some people taking the OEM setup and cutting the tubes just past the flange. As Mike said, the headers for the VH-S-chassis won't come close so you might as well just start from scratch than pay that kind of money to start over.

[Q-ZILLA]

Well, JDM engine is on the way. $785 shipping included, from WA. Best price I could find.

I'm also starting to strip the old motor. Took out the spark plugs to find that none of the tips were melted; suppose to be indicative of detonation, but one tip was bent. Piston hitting it I'm sure. ARP rod bolts (202-6005) are here, JMNR gasket package (11042-60U85) and oil pan gasket... Still waiting on ARP head studs (202-4303). $640 in parts so far.

After reading more than I cared to, there are two camps when it comes to piston compression, those who are for low compression pistons and those for high. Quite a few newer cars are coming with higher compression pistons now, while being turbo'd.

I'm going to keep with the high compression pistons. I have talked to several engine builders; two out of three said the VH is massively over-engineered and the metallurgy excellent. My problem wasn't detonation anyway, the water-methanol mix helps to prevent that. Using lower compression pistons would cause sluggish starts off the line, then an explosion of power with high boost levels. With high compression, lower boost but more power without turbo. I also do not like the feel of my 14lb spring vs my 8lb. The feeling is incredible with the 14, but more violent and harder to control in my opinion, so I'm not changing the pistons. I like the way the car feels with my prior setup.

I will be getting the E-Boost Street instead of my manual controller, it will operate the water-methanol mix as well as boost. That's just handy and digital, easier to set and operate. When cash permits, I will upgrade the injectors to 550's along with a Ford Lightning MAF.

Yes, I will take pics of this install. I have helped to take out the engine twice, but never done it alone. I'm excited AND nervous to attempt this by myself, but WTF... Why not! So wish me luck, this might take me a while... I'm not rushing.

[IThaJ0kaI]

Have you looked into the s15 SR injectors? 440cc and you can get sets of 4, for under $100. And they will clip right in.

Or if you're set of 550s, sti injectors work great too, just make sure you get the clips and pig tails with them. You can grab full sets of 4 on nasioc for 150-200.

[Q-ZILLA]

Got the engine today from Foreign Engines, Inc. (800-333-9889), JDM engine cost $295, freight $490, total $785. Came with a bunch of extra parts, including motor mounts that look brand new. The motor has a few dings, cracked plastic pieces, etc. but I am thrilled at the engine vs the cost. They only have a few left and if I had more room in my garage, I'd buy another. The best price I could find before these guys was $1300, so I'm quite happy. Here are pics of the JDM engine.






















Meanwhile: This is a chore, for sure...









Getting the engine stand and hoist this weekend. Want to get the JDM on the stand and get going on that. The blown engine is ready to come out, Just a few bolts underneath. Have to take off the plenum, etc. on the JDM to have clearance to get it into the car. I'm dropping it through the bottom. I'm not sure if I can hoist it out, unbolting the motor mounts may be too hard to get to, but I need to check. Has anyone else hoisted one of these out, instead of dropping it through the bottom?

[Q451990]

Nice of them to cut the exhaust manifolds off right before where the pre-cats (or lack of them on a true JDM engine) would be.

In fact, I'd be very suspicious about that engine being a USDM engine, since cats are supposed to be removed by law... otherwise why would they cut them?

Heath

[Q-ZILLA]

I was expecting to see a Nissan logo on the top of the plenum, but logo has been removed. Inside the filler neck looks perfect though, LOOKS brand new. Hoses look pristine, still shiny. IDK. I asked about timing chain guides, they claim they are plastic and for $400 extra they would change them, I declined, I'll look first and change them myself if need be. Any tell-tale signs either way? Serial numbers of something like that? I just hope it works well, looks pretty same good to me.

[elwesso]

If the CAS connector is on the top of the CAS, it's a 94 engine, if it's on the side, then it could be a 90-93 with the plastic guides, and you'll want to take the front cover off to check.

[elwesso]

wiseco-94mm-040-overbore-pistons-w-scat ... 72720.html

IN case you didn't see this, I'll just leave this right here... Can you say 25lbs boost?

[Q-ZILLA]

wiseco-94mm-040-overbore-pistons-w-scat ... 72720.html

IN case you didn't see this, I'll just leave this right here... Can you say 25lbs boost?

Yeah, I'm on his email list. After reading about all the differences of CR's; low CR=high boost. high CR=low boost. So running my Q around 14-15psi on the stock 10.2:1 will result in roughly the same HP as say running 8.5 or 9.0:1 @ 25psi. Also, changing to lower CR will be "sluggish" while driving around without boost... PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong. I've done way more reading about this than I cared to.

[elwesso]

That is correct... I guess all will be revealed when you get a chance to see the pistons if there's any signs of detonation...