Can you say; Catastrophic Failure, Boys and Girls?

[Q-ZILLA]

That is correct... I guess all will be revealed when you get a chance to see the pistons if there's any signs of detonation...

Took out the spark plugs to find that none of the tips were melted; suppose to be indicative of detonation, but one tip was bent. Piston hitting it I'm sure.

[Q-ZILLA]

If the CAS connector is on the top of the CAS, it's a 94 engine, if it's on the side, then it could be a 90-93 with the plastic guides, and you'll want to take the front cover off to check.

Wes; CAS and CMPS same thing? My sensors are on the top. Looks the same as my 95.

[IThaJ0kaI]

Just an FYI, idk if you pulled the engine or not yet. It is super easy to pull out of the car through the top, with everything on it, including the intake manifold and down pipes.

[Q-ZILLA]

Just an FYI, idk if you pulled the engine or not yet. It is super easy to pull out of the car through the top, with everything on it, including the intake manifold and down pipes.

I was checking it out last night, you're right. Much easier than dropping it through the bottom. Have you done it before? Did you pull the transmission out with the motor, or just the motor? Seems to me it would be easier to pull them both out at the same time.

[IThaJ0kaI]

Yeah I have pulled a few VHs, both with and without the trans. Now every time i do it, trans comes out with the engine. Its pretty easy, but you def need a second pair of hands to do it.

[Q-ZILLA]

Thanks, I will pull it out from the top as well. Waiting on a stand now. The engine stand a buddy loaned me won't fit the 13mm bolts, so I ordered a 1 ton, $65, should be here tomorrow I think. Guess I'll pull th hood off as well to give me more room.

[Q-ZILLA]

Be very afraid... QZILLA is ALIVE!

[LEMHEAD16]

updates or ban

[Q-ZILLA]

Here's the link to pics I took while swapping out the motor.

"http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/johnw ... tory/17125"

I didn't log my hours, but I would estimate 70-90 hours. Did all the work myself with the exception of a buddy that had the proper tool to replace the front seal inside trans and a neighbor across the street acting as an extra set of eyes while dropping the motor in. In one of the pics, you can see the one inch lip on the front of my garage. I just about busted a nut more than once getting the front hoist wheels over it.

The JDM now has 250+ miles on it and HASN'T used any oil yet... Weird! I have noticed and 2 other friends that this engine sounds heavier or deeper than the other 2. It also feels a bit stronger than the other ones without boost. I haven't raced it yet, hopped on it a couple times but nothing special yet. Yes, I'm a little intimidated and don't want to lose another motor just yet. With the addition of the ARP connecting rod bolts and studs, I'm sure it will handle more power now.

[SanCarlosQ45]

Sorry to bring back an older thread but I had a few questions.

I just got the last engine from Foreign Engines in Seattle for the same $295+160 for shipping. I was really excited and couldn't wait because I have a transmission I got from a local wrecking yard that has 53k miles to go in with the engine. So after removing the plastic wrap I was slightly disappointing, one it is dirtier than expected and it had lots of splinters from other pallets all over everything. The other thing is that it is just a long block, no flywheel or any accessories including no starter or alternator. It also looks like the front driver side of the engine hit something because the crank angle sensor is damaged and the oil filter was dented. Just more things to swap over.

But after closer inspection the inside of the motor looks almost brand new, no varnish, even the inside of the intake looks totally clean. Hopefully in the next couple of days I'll clean it up since I have a diesel hot pressure washer, and pull the plugs which will tell me a lot. Overall for the price I guess I really cant complain.

So my questions are:

1.) Were all of the JDM VH45DE valve covers raw alluminum?

2.) Did the JDM VH45DE come with egr valves? Its weird because Q-zilla's came with one but mine had a block off plate. It could be that who ever the supplier is in japan did that to plug it.

[Q-ZILLA]

You know, I don't think mine is JDM, it had cats on the exhaust, where other known JDM's have none. The EGR I guess comes on them as well, judging by this JDM on Ebay;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271221089511?ss ... 1436.l2649

They also took the badge off the plenum, which made me wonder. I think the cats being there are the giveaway. Did yours have cats on the exhaust?

If I had the extra cash right now, I would like that one on Ebay, so I could have it built for 800+hp, but I don't so I will just dream...

[SanCarlosQ45]

I wonder if mine didn't come off one of those J models with the VH45DE. I cant tell if it ever had an EGR valve because the manifolds were plasma cut right after the O2 sensors, so I don't know if the bung was there for the EGR. Mine came with a block off plate and plug that looks OEM, its the same kind of golden coating the rest of the bolts have.

The other things that's different is the intake has a slightly smoother texture, while the link you provided has the same fine/rough texture that my original had. Its hard to explain, but mine was definitely had more shine to it.

How many hard vacuum lines were running under the "JDM" you got? My Cali model had a cluster of 5 while the JDM only had one.
Were your valve covers raw aluminum instead of powder coated? Mine had lots of dark corrosion from being raw along with all of the exposed aluminum.
Did the coil-pack harness have a different connector that plugs into the ignitor? Mine had a 6 pin connector instead of a 4 pin.
Was the throttle position sensor different? Min had two connectors on it.

I know for a fact that mine is JDM, I just dont know what vehicle it came out of.

[Q-ZILLA]

I blew out the rings in the #4 cylinder of this JDM... I've got her tore down to the block and everything looks good otherwise. BUT, HOW IN THE f*** DO YOU GET THESE GODDAMN TORX BOLTS OUT OF THE f*** HEADS? I'm talking about the torx on the cam hold downs.

[Q-ZILLA]

Finally found this thread... I'd seen it before, but couldn't find it;

What size are the camshaft bearing Torx bolts ?

What dumb bastard decided torx would be good for this... ***hole!

[maxnix]

When NisTech built these as turbo motors, everything was changed internally, except maybe the crankshaft.

[Q-ZILLA]

Maxnix, the only thing I think needs to be changed out for a good turbo/sc motor is; the pistons, rings, conrod bolts, headstuds, valve springs and retainers. Then you can go to 800+, which is my goal, but I am limited to the transmission and I don't know how the car will take to 600+ftlbs of torque. Guess I'll have to find out.

The amount of abuse I administer to this motor is more than most. The fact I busted a conrod bolt only on my last motor amazes me. I should have yanked that motor and gone through it, afterall, I put damn near 100k on that one without too many issues. To lose a set of rings on this JDM isn't too surprising either, knowing there is an issue with them.

I'm planning on building a new motor this year and starting from the crank up, I would have started it already, but my wife's Escalade basically blew up and I had to get her another truck. Found a Nissan Armada, '08 with 42,500 on it for $16k. I have no doubt it will last longer than that Escalade POS. The puchase of this Nissan stole my motor money, but hopefully I'll recoup that before too long...

[Q-ZILLA]

FYI... After taking this engine down and pulling the pistons, as well as the pistons from my old block, the metal between the compression ring and scraper ring is broken on 6 out of 8 of my pistons in the engine I just pulled. My old engine has 4 with the same issue; two pistons are exploded, so don't know about them.

Instead of using the 600hp rule on these stock cast pistons, I would say that should be dropped to around 500hp. Guess I'll be buying some forged pistons for this motor. Does anyone have any for sale?

[Brew Q]

Instead of using the 600hp rule on these stock cast pistons, I would say that should be dropped to around 500hp.

Are you running the stock fuel pump? I think the stock Q fuel system is the weak link if you are trying to hit 500 at the wheels. G50 owners have enough problems with these pumps without forced induction...and then there's the injectors. I'd also say a lot is in the tune.

This is the pump I plan on upgrading to shortly and is capable of a lot more than the stocker, plus Deatschwerks even has an install kit for our Q:
http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fu ... 766-detail

[Q-ZILLA]

I put a Bosch in a few years back, but fuel isn't the issue. I'm running rich on stock injectors. 81% on injectors to be precise and I'm real close or on top of 600hp at the flywheel now. I'm also on 50/50 water/methanol mix. The simple problem is that these stock pistons, cast, can't handle that much hp, simple as that. QSIGUY, Shane, did my dual tune for me. It's excellent.

Others on here warned me about it, but I had to find out on my own... I did, so now I'm moving on to forged pistons and aftermarket rods. I will be upgrading injectors and a better fuel pump, ford lightning MAF, along with a four or 5 row radiator, etc.. I want to get 800+ at the flywheel.

Why upgrade your fuel pump? Are you playing with forced induction as well? If you're not, the stock or replacement pump is just fine. I like the Bosch I put in, but there are some newer, in tank pumps out there now that are 400lph. I'll be getting one of those. I already picked it out, but it's bookmarked on my other computer.

[Brew Q]

Sweet, excellent info... I should've known you had that already covered!

and yes I definitely plan to boost, rear mount. I'll be very happy with 400's whp first, then we'll see where I want to go from there. I've talked to sijoko quite a bit and have read through about every turbo related post Shane has made.

Enjoy your posts - you need more vids though!

[Q-ZILLA]

I'll be very happy with 400's whp first, then we'll see where I want to go from there.

Yeah... Listen, for what it's worth... If you're going to boost your car, do it right the first time. I should have listened to others, but I thought, like you, I'd be happy with 500; NOT! It's a disease. The money I burn't up along the way; if I'd bit the bullet and spent it on the front end, I'd already have the car finished, well maybe... You'll see. Wait till you spank a new Mustang, Camaro or Corvette, then you'll need to let your wife peel you off the headliner!

[subtle_driver]

were you running e85? If it overheated a piston you might have got a piston lodged in the bore. how do the other pistons look? I am gonna have to look at some older threads of this build! Pretty sweet!

[Q-ZILLA]

were you running e85? If it overheated a piston you might have got a piston lodged in the bore. how do the other pistons look? I am gonna have to look at some older threads of this build! Pretty sweet!

No, I am running a Snow water/meth system though, full blast around 8psi. E85 is a pain in the a** in my mind. Yeah, I get why people do it, but here, there's only 2 stations with it and they're very inconveniently located. Pistons are out, engine is down to the bare block, just waiting for the pistons and rods, etc. from Eric @ PerformanceVH.