500hp your going to need some good sized injectors. I would run 660cc or 720cc. Cams would help and a good intakemanifold. A good turbo would be needed and a good exhaust manifold and exhaust system. LOTS of Dyno time. Might run into problems with the RB20 box, the Internet says it's not very strong. If you get to that level of HP with that transmission I wouldn't drive it like a honda and use a clutch that won't grip too much. If it dosen't grip too much you might not kill the transmission. It's going to take some cash to get to your goal since they aren't alot of cheap parts for the RB20.TCS-240sx wrote:Hi I am new here and new with a RB20, I will like to knowif 500 whp is reacheble with this engine and what would I need to get there.
By the way I will be using a Microtech Ecu.
myth, ain't happening. I have seen a few 400hp RB20s but they were minimum 2.2 overbores with all the fixins. IMO having played with them for a while you could get a reliable 300hp out of a 20 on the stock internals. You would need at least a head gasket and valvetrain; cams, lifters springs. This assumes a tight fresh engine and clean healthy oiling system. I have said it till I am blue in the face, THESE ARE USED MOTORS! Japanese people on average do not maintain their cars well, they beat the hell out of them and sell them after about 3-years. You ain't going to get 400hp on a used RB20 with stock guts much less 500hp. You hav ethe 20 so use it. check it's condition and tune it slowly and correctly and you will be pleased with it, it's a solid mill. I would draw a musclecar parralel with big blocks and small blocks. Man the 454 is just a beast and deserves it's props but the lil 350 can get it done too all day long and cheaper. You will have to play catchup but it is not useless effort if it meets your goals. If you want streetable 300hp the 20 will do it all-day-long. The 26 is already above 300 but a bird in the hand yknow.TCS-240sx wrote:By the way I read (dont remember were) that someone had reached 480-490 whp with stock internals, with min investments.
Thanks for the inforbsileighty wrote:Still keep in mind that for 400whp... you'll probably need ~450 at the crank. The only way you will get that out of a 20 is lots of boost and lots of revs. To give you an idea, I calculated the mass flow rate of a 2L @ 8250rpm at 20psi and it is about 37.5 LBS/Min.
So say that's about 390hp at the flywheel... you are still shy of your goal by about 60hp. Granted you can tweak this flow number with tuning and cams (by all means you will need cams to make solid power past 6100 going by the dyno graphs I've seen... since that's what I've heard the big restriction up top in R's is, and reading the graphs shows where). So, like the scientist said... headwork would be key for getting solid power past 300 whp since the motor is going to need to rev to make that kind of power. I also hear the hypereutectic pistons cause the rev limit to stay down due to mass... so keep that in mind for anything much over 8k.
The 20 is a rewarding motor... and I really enjoy mine to death. I went with it because I like them more than the 25 (a few tech reasons but more or less... just because...), and I'd rather have my Kei Office coilovers and my 20 vs. spending the $ on a 26 (even though I like that motor very much).
I'd say shoot for 300-375 for whp... due to the fact that more than likely you are going to have a very peaky motor with minor mods and 400whp.
Here's my $1.50 on the subject... hope it helps.
rbsileighty wrote:Glad I can help!
Eh... blown turbo pushing 5.8psi... once I rebuild my small T3/T4 or just buy another (about the same price these days)... I'll dyno and let you know.
Do you also have a RB20|?lyon23 wrote:since he already has the motor in the car he doesnt' need to spend the money on trying to get one, I think this is a plus some have not taken into consideration...so all he has to do is get the parts and work done..think it will be better and cheaper than having to buy another motor swap it in and buy the remaning upgrades to get it there...then it's the other question on how reliable is goin to be...I don't know where people these days are thinking of just hp...I don't want a dyno queen I just want to run 12's at the 1/4 I don't even care if it is a 12.9999999999, but I'm not worried about hp I know I'm gonna need some tires and a somewhat stiff suspension(not blown shocks). I 'm goin to upgrade my turbo fuel system and tune it and see how it goes and that's it.
With the mounts I made the swaybar fits... I know because I put it on with no problems. I will take a picture when I get home in about 2 weeks. Shoot me an email about that time and remind me to snap a shot.TCS-240sx wrote:HMMM that is interesting, I heard that you could not fit the RB20 with the stock sway bar because the oil pan would hit it.
Can you take a picture of the bottom front and do you have pictures of the mounts before ou installed them?
Either of the mount kits out for the RB20 will clear the sway bar. I have had top hat mounts and they cleared. So dose the Mckineny mounts.TCS-240sx wrote:HMMM that is interesting, I heard that you could not fit the RB20 with the stock sway bar because the oil pan would hit it.
Can you take a picture of the bottom front and do you have pictures of the mounts before ou installed them?