Nistech: yeah, Dae's right, that's just a pic I took off this other thread. I'll try to borrow my mom's digital cam and snap some for you guys to double check on.....
Well, I'm still confused as to why my timing marks are near the oil pan when I've set everything correctly to spec. I even played around with setting the distributor to 180* to make up for it, but I still dont get it to start. It cranks over a little better, but still wouldnt want to keep it that way (#1 TDC and the distributor pointing to #4).
Cam swap, car not starting!
Pics will help, I'm confused too. What marks are near the oil pan? You mean the sprocket dimples are pointing downward? Use the timing light to see if your spark timing is correct. If it isn't, that could be the problem. If it is, then the valve timing has to be wrong...or something else is messed up here.
if your distributor is 180 out your timing marks on the pulley should still be near the timing pointer on the cover. 180 out means that #4 is at top dead center which is in the same place as #1 TDC(timing marks on the pointer of the front cover)
if your timing marks are pointing downward on the crank and you distributor is pointing at #1 cyl you are like 90 out. You need to set the TDC mark on the pulley to the pointer on the cover. and see where you cam keys are at [not the dots on the cam sprocket,the square key ways behind the bolts like in the picture] they should be at I 9:00 and E 12:00. If they are way off roll the engine around 1 rotation so the timing marks on the crank pulley come back around to the timing pointer on the cover. Then recheck the location of the key ways on the cams. if they are at the mark or closer to it you are set up for TDC#1. If they dont match you need to pull the chain off the cams and set it so they are at those clock positions. Once you attain these mechanical timing marks now check your distributor rotor,it should be pointing at #1 if not pull it out and set it so it points at #1 on the cap. at this point your car should run.
if your timing marks are pointing downward on the crank and you distributor is pointing at #1 cyl you are like 90 out. You need to set the TDC mark on the pulley to the pointer on the cover. and see where you cam keys are at [not the dots on the cam sprocket,the square key ways behind the bolts like in the picture] they should be at I 9:00 and E 12:00. If they are way off roll the engine around 1 rotation so the timing marks on the crank pulley come back around to the timing pointer on the cover. Then recheck the location of the key ways on the cams. if they are at the mark or closer to it you are set up for TDC#1. If they dont match you need to pull the chain off the cams and set it so they are at those clock positions. Once you attain these mechanical timing marks now check your distributor rotor,it should be pointing at #1 if not pull it out and set it so it points at #1 on the cap. at this point your car should run.
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does it matter if my intake cam is slightly above 9? Its not hitting 10, but not exactly at 9. My exhaust is at 12. There is another thing that I noticed, when cranking the engine by hand, the whole thing gets really stiff and I have to use my whole body weight to rotate it. Should I look for whats causing this to lock like that? Also, when turning it by hand, everything seems to match up the way they should. Its only the distributor that's acting up, its like its going on whenever it wannts to. Cause when I stop shooting the timing light, the crank and cams are still aligned.