calling sound system experts... help me get a sub in here- is it possible?

[naladude911]

ever hear of tying stuff to the roof?

[NickD85]

ever hear of I'm not spending an extra half an hour, and scratching my car trying to muscle 50 and 75 pound sheets of plywood onto my roof, then tying them down when it takes ten seconds to slide them into the back?


Modified by NickD85 at 2:24 PM 6/9/2009

[nnorton44]

USD$ 439.95 + shipping

He said he had a budget, great advice though...

$265 shipped, brand new + warranty

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-JL-Aud...%3A50

But then again you can get the S8L7 for $139 shipped...new not refurbished.

http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-08S...%3A50

I'm a JL fan though...

[NickD85]

What kind of RMS wattage should I be looking for with a decent 8"?

[nnorton44]

450-500W RMS will get the job done

[NickD85]

damn so I guess that means 200 rms is pretty weak? I'm not looking to blow the doors off here...

[nnorton44]

200W RMS is not bad it will be a good compliment to the stereo, it's just gonna be hard making a box to conform to the available space.

[K03sport]

You can fit a 10 back there. However, you will need to build you enclosure out at least 3" from the end of the plastic. This will put your sub almost flush with the inside of the rear tire hump.

If you aren't going to use fiberglass, you can try and build an enclosure with 1/2" MDF (Medium Density fiberboard) aka the pressed sawdust wood. Less than 1/2" will be too flexible.

If you decide to go with the wood, glue and screw the pieces together and then seal the inside seams with glue or silicone so it is 100% air tight.

If it helps, cut pieces of card board as your template. Then, transfer the template to the wood. This way, each piece is perfect and custom fit and the box will slide in/out with ease. You can use 2" wide Velcro stripes on the back or bottom front to keep it in place.

How easy are "junked" rear quarter pieces to find? Would you be willing to cut up a junk piece to fit a better sub enclosure?

[NickD85]

thanks nnorton, I'm looking at a couple different kicker subs with rms's of 200-300 watts, way cheaper than the 450 watt one. I'm not worried about the box- this is super simple glasswork compared to some of the stuff that I've had to do in repairing different boats down at the yard. It shouldn't be too hard to extend it down into that bottom compartment either if need be.
Modified by NickD85 at 8:31 PM 6/9/2009

[NickD85]

You can fit a 10 back there. However, you will need to build you enclosure out at least 3" from the end of the plastic. This will put your sub almost flush with the inside of the rear tire hump.

If you aren't going to use fiberglass, you can try and build an enclosure with 1/2" MDF (Medium Density fiberboard) aka the pressed sawdust wood. Less than 1/2" will be too flexible.

If you decide to go with the wood, glue and screw the pieces together and then seal the inside seams with glue or silicone so it is 100% air tight.

If it helps, cut pieces of card board as your template. Then, transfer the template to the wood. This way, each piece is perfect and custom fit and the box will slide in/out with ease. You can use 2" wide Velcro stripes on the back or bottom front to keep it in place.

How easy are "junked" rear quarter pieces to find? Would you be willing to cut up a junk piece to fit a better sub enclosure?

K03, thanks for the input. I dont know, I really am liking the idea of an 8" that I can fit nearly flush with the plastic liner. Like I said, a 4x8 sheet good already barely fits as is, and sits on top of the tire humps. This is a major concern for me. As I've mentioned I work in a boatyard and do custom woodwork- frequently this entails loading the Q up to its ears with sheet goods tools etc. The safest and most convenient setup for me is a sub as flush as possible with the plastic. Regarding making the box, I'm definitely going with glass in the back, joined with more glass to a front face of MDF or marine plywood that I'll mount to the sub to. The sub to MDF joint will be the only one requiring sealing of an kind- the glass will bond seamlessly to the wood. I'm going to use the plastic liner itself as a mold, lining it with plastic wrap, then glassing. That should ensure a box of near perfect dimensions, no measuring required.

[KyooX4]

I don't mean to stray from topic; but has anyone noticed how many new members with audio/sub questions we've been getting lately?

[K03sport]

I don't mean to stray from topic; but has anyone noticed how many new members with audio/sub questions we've been getting lately?

6...but I haven't noticed anything strange or out of the ordinary....move along, nothing to see here.

NickD85...instead of building a complicated pocket enclosure, why not just build a 4" deep false floor?

Do you use the floor storage space currenlty in the back? If so, side pockets can be easily incorporated into the false floor.

Since the 4x8 pieces of wood already sit on top of the wheel humps, you will not have any interference with the sheets of wood and the false floor. The floor could be a simple as at rectangle the width of the wheel humps or you can build in small winglets off to the side, well, maybe not the one with the cubby.

The sub can be mounted flush or below the surface of the subfloor and a grill can be used to protect the sub from damage. Worst case you place a pice of cloth or sheet material over the sub to keep fine dirt/dust particles out of the cone area.

The subfloor would be strong enough to support what ever load you are carrying. Yes, the false floor would add a bit of weight, ~60-80lbs, but that could come in handy during the winter since the weight is over the rear wheels.

If need be, I can draw up some sketches to convey my idea a bit more clear.

We will get you a sub in the back of your R50.

[NickD85]

I don't mean to stray from topic; but has anyone noticed how many new members with audio/sub questions we've been getting lately?

I'm a new member?

and K03, the pocket enclosure is not at all complicated to construct. I save time, weight, money, and space by making a custom glass box to fit in that cubby. The glasswork will take two hours at the most... making and installing the box isn't what I'm worried about, that stuff I know. What I don't is the audio end. I need help finding a good, small, relatively cheap setup that will still make enough noise to be worth my time and money. I understand where you're coming from with the false floor and I think it's a great idea, but I think the much better option for me is the pocket mounted sub.

[W O T]

$265 shipped, brand new + warranty

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-JL-Aud...%3A50

I'm a JL fan though...

A 1 year warranty through sonic electronics (who is not an authorized JL dealer) is not a "warranty"

[KyooX4]

I'm a new member?

Nah, not you.

[NickD85]

haha alright good....

anyway getting back to subwoofers-what do you guys think of this woofer. Kicker, $50, rms 200W http://www.hifisoundconnection...30046

and this amphttp://www.hifisoundconnection...30046

They're both factory refurbished by kicker. The sub's rms is "50-200 watts" is that okay? I think that amp will work with it but I'm not positive. Look forward to some input, let me know what you guys think. Once again thanks for all the advice thus far. Oh and if you nix that sub, the site also has a square kicker, rms 300 watts, for $90.http://www.hifisoundconnection...30046

[KyooX4]

That amp would be overpowering that first sub (it's on the low side anyways). The other sub would work well with it.

[Qxxx4]

have you considered a bass tube? itd definately give you the bass your looking for and it takes very little space...you could even mount it on the roof or maybe fabricate something so taht it clears the floor by a foot or two since you said you need floorspace to lay sheets of wood right? maybe utilize the parts that hold the cargo cover up then youd have the floor free and the subs would be in a spot where youd hear a drastic improvement.

just my thoughts

[KyooX4]

The boards sit on the wheel wells right? My tube is about level with them, so if you were to get a powered bass tube, you could probably just put some protective material over it and slide the boards over it and the wheel wells.

[Qxxx4]

The boards sit on the wheel wells right? My tube is about level with them, so if you were to get a powered bass tube, you could probably just put some protective material over it and slide the boards over it and the wheel wells.

right on, thats teamwork right there. hookin you up with plywood space and massive bass

[NickD85]

hahah... yeah guys I've considered the bass tubes but I really prefer the idea and aesthetics of the built in sub unit. The tube would still get in the way of things (like when i put a small boat in the back for example) and could get damaged. The built in unit will (in my opinion) look better, and more like it belongs there- much cleaner, which is what I'm going for. The built in unit will definitely be the most convenient and eye pleasing for me.

[Qxxx4]

i got respect for you nick, it aint easy making a work truck look aesthetically pleasing lol i get what you mean though and I'd have to agree. What about working in that hidden space that the other member was referring to....that small compartment, under your carpetting. You could fit an amp in there, or get real crafty and make some sort of enclosure for a low profile sub, and make a sort of volcano effect so that the sub is sticking out from the flooring, yet not interfere with your wood.

This project is so intriguing. The largest thing I gotta lug around is my skates or the random computer to fix, so I didnt have any considerations when doing my install.......conditions like yours make it so much more interesting!

[NickD85]

thanks qxxx, that means a lot coming from the guy with the prettiest q on the forum (in my opinion). And yeah man, I plan on putting my amp in that cargo space under the carpet. I think it's time to order some parts though. I'm going with that 8" kicker, and the kicker amp. I'll be sure to post pics when I'm done. Thanks for all the input everyone. Much appreciated
Modified by NickD85 at 1:26 PM 6/11/2009

[KyooX4]

No prob man! It's definitely an interesting/challenging scenario, as qxxx4 said.Good luck!

[02pathy]

take off the panel with the pocket you have all kind of room back there where u can install a shallow mount and probably still put on your door, fibre glass is the best way to go to get maximum space get a shallow mount sub and u should be okay, if u get a regular 8" then u would have to stick out about two inches or so(leave 2" space behind sub)

[naladude911]

A little bit of a thead jack, but its about subsI went to my local car audio place for an estimate, and they said$260 for pair of 12" JL w1 subs$200 for JL amp$140 for installim getting the box off ebay, meant for the R50, for $125.

Is this a rip off or is it a good deal.

[W O T]

take off the panel with the pocket you have all kind of room back there where u can install a shallow mount and probably still put on your door, fibre glass is the best way to go to get maximum space get a shallow mount sub and u should be okay, if u get a regular 8" then u would have to stick out about two inches or so(leave 2" space behind sub)

You dont need to leave anything behind the sub, can be 1mm clearance and be just fine

[black2blackQX4s]

I plan on putting my amp in that cargo space under the carpet. I think it's time to order some parts though. I'm going with that 8" kicker, and the kicker amp. I'll be sure to post picks when I'm done.

I am really looking forward to your pictures. You are tackling what I have been thinking about for a long time. I have a similar issue with hauling things. My qx is my dj rig hauler so I used every bit of space!

If its so easy for you to make this box that fits in the cubby, maybe you can sell them to other interested qx'ers.

Keep up the good work and keep us posted!

[K03sport]

hahah... yeah guys I've considered the bass tubes but I really prefer the idea and aesthetics of the built in sub unit. The tube would still get in the way of things (like when i put a small boat in the back for example) and could get damaged. The built in unit will (in my opinion) look better, and more like it belongs there- much cleaner, which is what I'm going for. The built in unit will definitely be the most convenient and eye pleasing for me.

I think you are going to run into problems with the built in sub. I measured the cubby and it only comes to 0.307 ft^3. That isn't very big, even for an L7 8" sub.

You won't get enough internal air space of the enclosure, even if you pop out the lower storage bin. You will still be below 0.500 ft^3.

Since you won't go with the subfloor, your only other alternative to get base without blocking the back entirely is to go with a bass tube. Here is the link to Crutchfield's tube section Bazooka

6" 100W for $200, 8" 100W for $2306" 250W for $270, 8" 250W for $300

You hook up 4 wires and your done. They are made of plastic, so the outer casing is durable. If you are worried about damage, cover the tube with some clear bra materail or paint it with some bedliner paint.

The tubes range from 7" - 8-9/16" wide; 8-3/16" - 10-1/8" high; and 18-3/8" - 19-3/4" long. Laying on their side, they would easily fit under the plywood sheets that you carry every now and then.

If it is that big of a deal, get a trailer hitch and put the sheets of wood on a trailer. In fact, you could carry all of your work stuff in the trailer and leave the rear of the Q untouched.

If none if this works, then the Q is not the right work vehicle and you should probably go get a Tahoe or Expedition; something with more rear capacity...maybe even, I dare say, a pick-up.

[NickD85]

.4 - 1.8 cubic feet is the recommended size for a sealed enclosure with the sub I chose. By removing the black compartment entirely, and cutting out certain pieces of the cubby, I now have roughly a .51 cubic ft box. I think it'll be alright