Well, just 4 months since my last Post. I edited this thread title, since I think I’m gonna use it as a build thread from now.
I will try to summarize the best I can the work I did in the last weeks. Don't hesitate to comments if you see that I'm doing something wrong. I learned a lot from my mistakes in the past, and I'm still learning everyday.
BTW i like to take picture so be prepared to have a wideload of picture in this thread.
First thing I did after my last post is to buy an AEM UEGO wideband.
So I decided that I'll finally use my "stock" Bee*R ecu to start the engine. When everything will be rolling good, I would put back the Z32 maf and 450cc and with a bit of luck (ok money...) a Nistune board.
I also ordered some goodies. Aside from the wideband, for obvious reasons, for future additions to the car I would try to do it in a "Period correct" spirit. ie I want to upgrade it as much as possible according to the age of the car. As someone else would have done it in the '80s and '90s. Will see.
I found an ECU harness adapter that was on an HKS F-Con. One of the plugs is the male ecu connector. I'll cut it and use it to convert my Pulsar's harness.
Then, fumbling a bit, I came across a wonderful old school HKS boost gauge. I thought it would go pretty well in a car from the '80s. And it's a lot nicer than my old Autometer...
Having chatted with the guy who sold me the harness of the F-con, he said: Hey I have a gauge in the same kind, so I told him shoot me that! So here I am now with a twin intercooler temperature gauge!
It's a gauge which gives the temperature at the inlet and outlet of the intercooler. So we can know the effectiveness of said intercooler. Information needed? not really. Gauge adds 9000 points of jdm hotness? Hell yes! ok ok maybe not.
It uses two thermocouples type "J". I found two for a really good price.
Finally, I got a triple gauge pod that goes into the DIN radio hole. I will not touch or modify the dash. I don't want to cut or make a hole in a 25 years old and dried out dash. I tried to remove a corner this weekend, but he seemed so fragile and it will crack. In short, it’s a good compromise.
After that, I received a set of stock ca18det from beans33, here on nico. They look a bit dirty, but they are straight out from a running engine, and beans33 give me a sell it for a good price. Thanks again Mate!
After, I identified the wires of the ca18det connector. No need to say, it is better to double check and identify properly.
Now it's time to solder the ca18det connector to the pulsar harness. Here, check three time, solder once.
After, I received my rear disc brakes. This box was full of win, here is what I found in it.
A set of rear sentra se-r caliper.
Reinforced arms with urethane bushings.
Hubs, disc and hand brake cable.
Stainless steel braided brake line.
After this, I had problems with my fuel pump relay / wiring. I finally fixed it after 2 weeks-and also found out that my fuel pump was also dead. So I bought a brand new Walbro 255lph fuel pump.
Also got a free MBC from a buddy at work. Well if it's free, it's better than nothing I guess.
After that I got everything i needed to try a first start. And it started on the first try, not bad.
Sorry for the bad camera, HD videos are coming after.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrzIGJ4ZThI[/youtube]
After that the engine started to run on 3 cylinders, after some research i found it was one of the injector connector that was badly connected. Also found a dead AAC valve, the engine was always stalling. I found and installed a good one last week and the idle was better.
by the time i got my rear disc bracket conversion and spacer, oh yeah!
After this I know I had to install my wideband and to time the engine properly for further test.
I opted for the AEM No-Weld O2 mount, pretty easy to install without the hassle of welding.
Then I set the timing. I had already tried it before, but I cannot see the marks on the pulley. So as being under the car for the wideband I put a bit of paint on the marks and sandpaper the pulley. Now I was able to see something from the top of the engine.
After reading some threads here I decided to set the timing @ at 10°for now. The idle became softer. I have re-ajusted the idle screw because the engine was stalling. But short after I think I found the source of my relatively poor idle.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0maAvop ... 0maAvopNEA[/youtube]
After reading other threads here, I saw that many people seem to have problems with walbro fuel pump and stock FPR.
So I found a pretty decent deal fon a nismo type A FPR and a B&M pressure gauge.
By the same time I discovered a leaking gas feeding line, So I decided to change the line and install the FPR and pressure gauge in the same time. It's here i'm now.
Any comment welcome.
