PlusarNx's ca18det '87 Pulsar Nx thread / Bee*R chipped ECU

[Liquid_Neon]

I like the part where u are running the factory exhuast (modified for downpipe), I sorta wish I still had mine. My 2.5in and flowmaster are starting to piss me off on trips over 55mph and 1+ hour. Really hard to hear anything after churning 3K revs at 55mph and like 4100 for 80mph
Not a bad place for your guages, that's where i put my safc2. My boost and A/F are on my steering colum, i put them right onto the little shaped part so they fit pretty nicely.

I would love rear disc at some point, but the car stops pretty decent despite drums. I have nx2k front brakes so I havent run into an issue yet. I wish you continued luck in your voyage!

[PlusarNx]

Thanks!

In fact, it's not the factory exhaust but, it's 2.25", so it's relatively quiet. I don't like ridiculously loud exhaust.
You don't have to sracrifice confort to obtain the power gain. I run a fully freeflow exhaust on my 200SX and I barely hear it at 60mph. With an hi-flow cat and the longest resonator i was able to find, the sound is deep and mellow.

I'm still not sure if I will keep the gauge in the radio DIN. I'm thinking to install the AFR and intercooler temp in the ashtray hole. The angle looks better when you look at it. My boost gauge is in the steering colum too.

With my old boost gauge.







I run the exact same setup in my 200sx, nx2k ad22vf in front and drums in rear, it brakes hard.

BTW I have to say I watch your videos on youtube to keep moral!

[PlusarNx]

I'll have to keep a close eye on the AFR then when I get everything installed. The NISMO FPR isn't required is it? They are pretty expensive compared to other brands like Aeromotive and AEM and with the fuel rail adapter should work just as well.

I have the blueprints for the rear conversion parts, I'm just not in a rush to get it done.

I don't think the nismo FRP is mandatory, but probably a nice to have. Yes it's expensive. Luckily I was able to put the hand on a brand new one for half price.

[livelyjay]

Hindsight is 20/20, a 2.25" exhaust would have been much easier to work with and find smaller supplies for. As it is right now, the muffler is barely going to fit in the OEM location. I'm using a Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator, which according to reviews is pretty quiet. Only problem is the size, as it won't fit in the OEM resonator location. If it's not quiet enough, I'll buy a high-flow cat. If it's still not quiet enough I'll put another resonator in the OEM location.

If I run into AFR problems I'll be sure to swap out the OEM FPR immediately and see if it has any effect. I'm still a long way off from starting this thing up again though because I'm just lacking the motivation to get any work done lately.

Where'd you get the steering wheel mount?

[PlusarNx]

Where'd you get the steering wheel mount?

My bubby put it in the box with the brakes, it's from Energy Suspension.

http://www.nissanraceshop.com/product/3 ... ra-710103r

[Liquid_Neon]

My exhuast is 2.25 down to where the factory cat would go, then its 2.5 straight back to a flowmaster (40 series i think). I deff need to invest in a either a different muffler or a resonator because at 55-80mph for highway trips it drones way to much.

I have been trying to find some time to record more stuff with a friend and his gopro. but i havent had the time during the day or the gas money to piss away at 4.35/gal for 93 octane.. haha. car gets 20-25mpg with my safe/rich settings in my safc and ca18de ECU.

[PlusarNx]

I finished to install everything up. I set my pressure to 36 psi with the engine off but the pump in function. Once the engine at idle I expected to see pressure declined, but it rose to 40 psi. Normal or not?

I Gaped my PFR6A-11 to 1.1 mm.

Once the engine warm up, the engine keeps idle but i can hear some small missfire / pre-ignition sometime from the intake, when i play with the throttle body. I'll let burn the few "old 91 octane gas" remaining and fill it with 94 whenever I can. It will not hurt since I do not know what is the programming on the Bee * r ECU.

Fuel pressure raise to 40psi. Can i suspect a bad vacuum on my fpr?

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eO_N1s351ho&hd=1[/youtube]

What do you think of the AFR. The engine has reached its operating temperature. The small drop after I let the accelerator is this normal?

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzqMdYnyNbM&hd=1[/youtube]

[float_6969]

Double check your fuel lines. I think you might have them switched. Fuel pressure should drop below 36 @ idle, and increase above 36 @ a rate of 1psi of fuel pressure per 1 psi of boost pressure (4lbs of boost should equal 40psi of fuel rail pressure)

[PlusarNx]

I will double check tonight. From what I remember I plugged it this way:

Fuel filter, gauge, Fuel rail, FPR, return line to tank.
I will check my vacuum line too.

[livelyjay]

That's the correct fuel line pathway, I checked my FSM at least five times before I hooked it up. Throwing a vac tester or boost/vac gauge on that line is the quickest way to check if you're getting the correct readings at the FPR.

[PlusarNx]

BTW, not a big victory but the car move by itself! Since I installed the FPR it's hard as F*ck to start, like 6 ou 7 crank starts.
When the engine get a bit of heat, it starts. When the engine is hot, it runs like a charm.

Not a big ride, but the rear brakes are dead.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyQiTezsTVM[/youtube]

[Liquid_Neon]

NOOOO! you mutilated the precious SE bumper!!! all to flow air to your 'precious' intercooler! laaaame :P
Drives smooth, mine also runs liek dookie when cold. My air regulator is shot

[PlusarNx]

I dont see what you mean.... lol. Function > Style.

I chopped a bit of the upper part of the metal bumper and cover. I reinforced the metal bumper though.
I also blanked the lower corner to direct air towards the IC.





Sorry don't have better pics for now.

The body will be the last thing touched. I prefer to put my money on quality parts and mechanical upgrade for now.

[Liquid_Neon]

Oh my, look at that front wheel gap! man, my car hasnt sat that high in over 6 years! I miss my old black pulsar, but it had a ga16i. But seriously, I am very glad to hear another N13 running, so few of them left I treasure each one I see (that i cant rape for parts).
What did u use to funnel the intercooler on the bottom then? Mine is kind of open so air can go where ever it wants.

[PlusarNx]

Yes it has a huge wheel gap, and the worst is I'm on shorter spring. But I would like to swap it for some Gtir coilovers next year.



Here is a close look of the small blanking for the IC. I blanked the lower corner with a sheet metal piece. Not the best job, but I did this probably like 5 or 6 years ago... god time goes by. Maybe I should upgrade it by adding some blanks to hide the IC end tank and maximize the flow through the center part . I don't decided yet if I must funnel the top of the intercooler, I don't want to affect the radiator performance.

[PlusarNx]

I didnt updated in long time!

So here is the work i did in the past weeks (months)


I did this before winter.

So I just put the rear brake on, non time for painting, I will do it this winter, when the car will be in the garage. Right now the garage is full of summer/garden stuff, i have to get ride of it to put the N13 inside.

Abbreviated rear disc brake conversion guide.

Step #1



Step #2



Step #3



Step #4

Enjoy!

Like I said, paint will be applied later.

[PlusarNx]

After the rear disc brake conversion, I had to redo all the brake lines. So I unmounted the master cylinder and cleaned it, bended new rigid line and instaled my SS lines.





Force to play with the brake lines, the gas lines started to leak, so It was just a sign that it was time to change them too. So i did.

New line on left and the old one on right.



and then It was time to store the car in the garage for winter!

[PlusarNx]

here is where it's right now and on what I'm working.

The car is actually stored in my garage for winter. So I decided to give the engine bay some love.

This is what I started with.











What I used to clean it.



This Grez-Off stuff works pretty well.

After the first clean up session










Notice the clear coat of the paint, it has been ruined by the time...





I cleaned the connectors as well.





This is what was in one connector...



After cleaning, it was time to remove everything in the engine bay, and it was time to sand, sand a lot....



I grinded the little spots of rust



Sanding near to be done.









I removed my old fans, I want to replace them by slim pusher fans.



After I hid everything that doesn't needed to be paint.



The material!



And the results!







Now, Replug everything!! I will try to clean up the electrical harness and vacuum lines.




Voila!

[PlusarNx]

Does any one know what is this thingy.

It was on my firewall connected to my usdm ca16de harness. I can't found it in any of the 3 FSM I have, so I presume it is specific to the '87 ca16de pulsar.






I try to clean the engine bay, so if it's useless for my ca18det I will not re connect it.

[PlusarNx]

Btw here it is in my engine bay.

[kahlistrophic777]

That rear brake bracket looks awesome..is the spacer used to space the rotor out due to the new distance of the bracket over stock? Or is it just for wheel offset? What thickness are the bracket and spacer?

[PlusarNx]

That rear brake bracket looks awesome..is the spacer used to space the rotor out due to the new distance of the bracket over stock? Or is it just for wheel offset? What thickness are the bracket and spacer?

The spacer is used to space the rotor correctly between the pads. The thickness is between 3/8" to 1/2", I don't remember.
I can confirm you this info when I will get the car out of the garage in a few weeks.

[Izento]

So, I dunno if you figured out what the deal was about the Bee*R ecu, but maybe it was something like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Io8vnAIapN8

[PlusarNx]

Haha yeah I saw this some weeks ago. Finally it appears that Bee*R also made ROM, which I didn't know.
The ecu come from a stock ca18det, so I don't figure what kind of modification it has on it.

The motor started et idled well with it, but I will probably change the ECU for another since not knowing what is on the Bee*R eprom, make me a bit nervous.

[Jaybo]

Sweet build man, I love the motor in car respray of the engine bay..

[PlusarNx]

Thanks man! The project doesn't go as fast as I want. But at least I try to do it well, once.
The engine bay was quite of work, but in the end I'm really happy with the result.

So here are some update.

I decided to get rid off the old fans. They take too much space between the rad and the turbo.
So I designed a fan Shroud and bought two new electric fans.

Here is the final design.





I work for a company that owns a CNC Plasma cutter, so... I asked the operator if he could put my shroud between two jobs, and said yes. So I get it folded on the 15 tons press. I like the result.



After some research, I opted for two Spal low profil 10" fans, 800 CFM each. These are the best bang for the buck I found. The price is good and so is the quality. One of my friend had them installed on his S30Z and he really like them. I you want to order similar fans, order the curved blades, they are a bit less efficient then the straight, but are much quitter.





And the test fit.







Since I started to clean up my wiring harness, I ordered the connectors from Wiring Specialties guys, great service btw.
So I replaced all the worn out connector.







Also redone the positive and ground wiring on the battery.



New silicone vacuum hose, couple and T-bolt clamp. Cain't wait to install them.





And finally, a Nistune ECU to tune the 450cc and the Z32 MAF when I will be ready to install them.





So that's pretty much the new addition to the project. I'm now replacing the worn gas line. I discovered last Saturday that I will need to replace the flexible gas hose between the pump and the hard line... So I have ti re-open the pump cover in the trunk for the 4th time...