CA18DET (2.0L) Stroker Crank

[themadscientist]

HKS cast iron.

[dash]

only one way to accelerate a full weight street car down to impressive ET. Torque.As mentioned, these puny motors need boost to accomplish that.Boost makes torque. Hairy CA18s have made 4-500 ft-lbs. How much better r we expecting from a relatively small lightweight powerplant ?

I personally chose the CA to power my AE86 and rwd KP starlet. By farrrrrr the best fit/most sensible choice. 4AG cost several time$$$$ more to match it.

4A is a formidable powerplant as well. No torque ? yeah, maybe off boost, but...Street AE86 gone 10.9. 1st gen MR2 gone 10.6, street tires! No spray on either.

Odd enough, I would definitely "stroke" a 4AG. Why ? Simply because it can be done "on a budget" using a $150 junkyard 7A (1.8L) block AND it's a proven hybrid.7A block with a stock blacktop 20V head/oe cams gone 10.8 in a full weight FWD street rollaThese r all respectable performances for what they r imo

On a side note, I mentioned a monster street miata 1.8 here; 50 trim T04E @30psi on pump fuel + meth inj., cams. 585hp and an extroordinary 500+ ft-lbs tq.That is my dream recipee to try on a CA18. Hope to get there ultimately

[themadscientist]

I am torn. On the one hand that gut-wrenching surge from a dead stop that a big motor can accomplish is awesome, but on the other, tearing down a winding road with a high-revving NA singing in the sweet spot of its powerband is amazing too. DON'T MAKE ME CHOOSE!

[ganma_ca]

It is a very true statement. N/A is 100% more reliable, straight power no lag, has it's limits, less components to worry about FAILING. On the other hand forced induction is sweet, little lag, lots of components, more power then na, more enjoyable sounds(ex bov lol) and my favorite when you are doing 70 and you step on the gas to hear that spoollllllll:D******* And then a little lag and then the wrenching of the guts and then bov going into 5th/6th gear for some! What I rest my case with is found here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WkKje1n2mk

How our rides are meant to be driven(well not into semi's but aside from that;)

[mmm240]

Word. CA19DET POWER. All I did was bore .40 over and .30 over pistons. stock bottom end. way better power band. i see no need for a stroker. I made mine just a tad undersquare for boost purposes. of course, my horespower goals are a lot less. I'm fine at 270-285 WHP.

Interesting. I would love to hear more about your setup, how you like it, how it compares to stock, etc... Has it seen any dyno time?

[ganma_ca]

Stillllll droooooling over that hks cast manifold DAM% IT I WANT ONE!!!!!!

[ragenasian]

Stillllll droooooling over that hks cast manifold DAM% IT I WANT ONE!!!!!!

There is one on Japan Yahoo Auctions for I think around 400 bucks.

[sjbsuperman1425]

N/A is pretty cool IMO. my buddies got a high comp. KA and it does haul ace. i like everything about it, except it gets boring quick, is too loud, it doesn't throw you in your seat, its just basically going...ah who am i kidding forced induction is 100x better than N/A lol

[themadscientist]

When the boost hits and the gate cracks open, the fun begins.

[ganma_ca]

Mmmmm yahoo auctions Japaaannnn, can't tell you how many thing's I'd love to have from there, but shipping kills it:( I can only imagine how much a cast manifold weighs lol. But if I were a high roller I'd pick it up in a minute:D I think it's safe to say most of the people on here are BOOST JUNKIES lmao;) Either that or snail lovers? lmao jk jk But yeah my equation for Boost= Hotness(figuratively/literally)

[datso]

what brand is the high mount manifold here?

[float_6969]

HKS. Hasn't been made for close to 2 decades. It took me years to get my hands on that one. I removed the stock .48 AR single scroll turbine housing (made by HKS) and installed a .58 AR divided housing. Spools much faster. Haven't gone past wastegate pressure (5-6psi) yet due to lack of time to tune it.

[datso]

looks the goods and perfect for clearance in my little engine bay. Any idea how I could find one? eg. yahoo auctions?

[float_6969]

Are you RHD? If not, then don't get it. The clearance is TERRIBLE for the brake booster. If you're LHD in an S13/S14 you will HAVE to eliminate the booster. There are electro-hydraulic options out there, but VERY expensive. If this isn't in a S-series chassis, and it's LHD, and it's a smaller chassis (isn't yours going into a Datusun?), then I very seriously doubt it will work. There is also a clearance issue with the steering knuckle. I had to grind the top of the EWG down to get it to clear. Anytime I want to change the spring, I'm also going to have to remove the EWG completely because the steering knuckle won't let me remove the top of the WG to get access to the spring.

[datso]

Sorry yes of course its a HKS had problems viewing on my browser for some reason text runs out the side. Now seems fine other times not.

my puny b10 is rhd just like the manifold seems quite well cast. I like this HKS mani over the stock due to the turbo been a little further forward to help clear firewall for the dump pipe.

[float_6969]

Actually it's really far back. That's part of the reason it won't clear a LHD brake booster. Clearance for the dowpipe is TIGHT. The kit is supposed to come with a cast downpipe, but I didn't get it. I took it to 3 exhaust shops before I found one that said they could make a downpipe that would fit like I wanted.

[datso]

the factory one is actually further back the HKS turbo flange sits
a little further ahead of the no 4 exhaust oulet port.

Did you get your HKS on? I cant find pics

[float_6969]

It's further forward than the stock turbo, but being top mount and EWG, makes clearance tight. I'll see if I can come up with a recent pictures.

[float_6969]

[datso]

that looks really fat!! love it!

here is what Im going for instead, not top mount but affordable to clear firewall

http://www.flipsidecustoms.com/?p=213

[float_6969]

So are you putting it in an 86, or are you just using that manifold?

[datso]

datsun b10