Building Block...

[Gutling]

Okay I am about to have the block done in my SR20DET. I have most of the basic bolt-ons, and I know no fear of my current turbo blowing it up, but I want to have the block done before I ever need it built, so I wont have to worry about it and I know everything is in good order. Anyway, here is my shopping list right now, I am going to get oem bearings (main-rod) after I find out the grade, and might have to order some more parts after I get the block apart (valve might be burned or something). I want it to be a nice solid build, good for about 450-500hp. Like I said, my turbo now will probably only kick out 250hp at full psi. After I do this build I will start looking into new turbos, probably a Greddy GT2540R. Anyway, if some of you that have done this before can look at my list, tell me what you think/recommend, I would greatly appreciate it!!! Also getting the head P&P while off.

*APEX'i Metal Headgasket 86/1.5mm*Replaced With APEX'i Metal Headgasket 86/1.2mm*HKS Valve Springs & Crower Titanium Retainer Kit* Replaced With Ferrea Valve Spring, Titanium Retainers, and Valve Spring Locators.*HKS Rocker Arm Stopper Kit*Replaced With Greddy Rocker Arm Stopper Kit (Cheaper)Tomei Valve Guides *Eagle Rods*Replaced With Stock RodsARP Headstud Kit ARP Rod Bolts CP Pistons 86.5mm/8:5:1 Pro Fab Design Intake Manifold Gasket Engine Gasket KitSome maintence stuff im going to replace, already got new water pump and oil pump/timing chain coverTiming Chain Tensioner Timing Chain PCV Valve TPS Sensor

Modified by Gutling at 12:56 PM 10/20/2005
Modified by Gutling at 1:48 PM 10/20/2005

[DawgMode]

lol buddy with that build...gt2540r for your motor is child's play

be a man...step up to a gt30 lol

[Gutling]

ha ha i know, but i have horrible luck, id like to be safe than sorry.

[TougeTune180]

make sure to get your head ported and polished while its off the engine...and get a 3 or 5 angle valve job too, that way your head is flowing max capacity when you do go with a new turbo, and gargantuan boost...lol wish i had the cash to do a build like that....

[Gutling]

ya sorry forgot i was going to get the head p&p when its off

[Nismo_Freak]

Looks fine.

Wanna buy a cheap GT2540R? Rated at 450HP (Garrett version).

I'd sell it for $500 shipped if you wanted it.

Setup for external gate.

[Dori Dori]

If you're planning on Eagle rods, don't bother with rods at all. That's like going from real Advil to walgreens labeled ibuprofen. OE is better in this case. Take the money and put it towards something else.

Get a stock thickness headgasket (1.2mm). No need to drop compression with a HG if your replacing pistons...makes NO sense. Apexi is the best though.

P&P will result in NO gains. Just look to Enthalpy's project. People have been saying this for years though. Leave the ports on SR heads alone. Instead of basically lighting money on fire, use it towards a Greddy intake mani.

Greddy doesn't make a GT2840r, that's HKS and it's a waste of cash. Get a GT2871r .86 a/r for your power goals unless you are willing to purchase a SS exhaust mani in which case I'd say go GT3071r .64 a/r.

CAMS!!! Get some. JWT C1 at least (or step 2 HKS's since you seem to like JDM parts) since you are changing your valve springs/retainers/ect. It wouldn't make sense not to get them.

[Gutling]

Alright so 1.2mm headgasket would be better. Im pretty sure im going to keep the stock rods then. I was planning on HKS step 2 later on, before new turbo. but they are not going to require the block to be pulled apart to put in, thats why i was waiting on them. thank u for the usefull info!

[Dori Dori]

But they will require you to take your head off which means you should also replace your head studs again which = more money.

[Gutling]

u got to pull the head of to remove camshafts? i though just the valve cover

[Gutling]

All right about to start ordering stuff and getting ball rolling, final roll call. APEX'i Metal Headgasket 86/1.2mm (Heard since I got pistons, stock mm is best)Greddy Rocker Arm Stopper Kit Ferrea Valve Spring Kit, Titanium Retainers, Valve Spring LocatorsARP Headstud Kit CP Pistons 86.5mm/8:5:1 Eagle RodsTomei Valve Guides Pro Fab Design Intake Manifold Gasket Engine Gasket Kit ADDEDHKS Step 2 Intake 264/Exhaust 264 CamshaftsHKS Adjustable Cam Sprockets

Changed the headgasket from 1.5mm to 1.2mmDitched HKS valvesprings and Crower retainers for FerreaKeeping Eagle rods, heard mixed things on them but im not going to be pushing but 250hp for a while till I get new turbo, and then still not more than 400hp.Heard no gains in P&P head, said it was a waste of money. Absolutely sure?

[Dori Dori]

u got to pull the head of to remove camshafts? i though just the valve cover

That was waaaay too early in the morning for me to have even considered replying. Cosidering I've swapped cams and helped swap cams at least 25 times, IDK how I could have said that. You are right though, just the valve cover lol.

[spider_slayer]

you will gain very little from a P&P job. you will notice some gains from a valve angle job.

[Dori Dori]

Changed the headgasket from 1.5mm to 1.2mmDitched HKS valvesprings and Crower retainers for FerreaKeeping Eagle rods, heard mixed things on them but im not going to be pushing but 250hp for a while till I get new turbo, and then still not more than 400hp.Heard no gains in P&P head, said it was a waste of money. Absolutely sure?

Good call ditching the HKS springs. You could save money and get Comp springs though. I have comp springs and crower retainers. Ferrea stuff rocks though.

I still wouldn't bother with Eagle rods.

As for the P&P, find one person that gained power on a P&P and I'll be surprised AND very interested in what they did (unless we're talking 600hp+ applications).

[180fan]

Eagle rods weigh less than stock rods, you'll get better response from them.

Dori Dori, do you have any conclusive info on the p&p giving zero gains?

[Dori Dori]

Eagle rods don't seem to have the negative rep they used to. Maybe they changed their manufacturing process??? Trustworthy people seem to accept them now. I have a hard time letting go I guess lol.

Conclusive info on P&P not providing gains? No, of course not. That would take head after head of porting and polishing to different tolerances with different techniques in a controlled environment. What I do know though is that each of the p&p jobs friends had done presented no noticalbe gains. Every p&p job I've seen anyone online get had no gains. The most trusted SR tuner in the US just p&p a sr head trying to get gains and got none. So, although that doesn't mean its impossible to get gains from a p&p or improve your powerband, it does prove that getting the gains will pose a challenge that will most likely be lost. I'd really be interested to see some before and after comparisons on high hp cars though since all the ones I have experience with or know of were all sub-400hp cars.

[Valley]

did they just P&P or did they do it right and flow test too?

[luv2spedup]

dude after ur done u can eaisly throw a garette gt 32rs and call it a day

[180fan]

Eagle rods don't seem to have the negative rep they used to. Maybe they changed their manufacturing process??? Trustworthy people seem to accept them now. I have a hard time letting go I guess lol.

Conclusive info on P&P not providing gains? No, of course not. That would take head after head of porting and polishing to different tolerances with different techniques in a controlled environment. What I do know though is that each of the p&p jobs friends had done presented no noticalbe gains. Every p&p job I've seen anyone online get had no gains. The most trusted SR tuner in the US just p&p a sr head trying to get gains and got none. So, although that doesn't mean its impossible to get gains from a p&p or improve your powerband, it does prove that getting the gains will pose a challenge that will most likely be lost. I'd really be interested to see some before and after comparisons on high hp cars though since all the ones I have experience with or know of were all sub-400hp cars.

What I'm curious about is who did the p&p jobs. I have seen some p&p jobs get botched and some come out good. Depends on who's doing the job and what you're willing to sacrifice when you're doing the p&p.

[Gutling]

alright not p&p, i was going to see about a valve job though. i just like the ferrea stuff comes it comes as a complete kit, and cant find a bad thing bout it anywhere

[Dori Dori]

What I'm curious about is who did the p&p jobs. I have seen some p&p jobs get botched and some come out good. Depends on who's doing the job and what you're willing to sacrifice when you're doing the p&p.

I know what you are trying to get at and that's that the P&P's jobs were done poorly or whatever... If you want to contact somebody now about this, contact Enthalpy. He's been there, done that w/ p&p's.

[Dori Dori]

did they just P&P or did they do it right and flow test too?

They were put on flow benches and tested...which proves nothing in terms of creating power anyway. http://mototuneusa.com/think_f...g.htm

[Gutling]

Okay quick question, which pistons would work better, like i said i know not very much about internals and compression and stuff so please dont beat me with stupid stick8:5:19:0:1

[Dori Dori]

Since you're doing rods and pistons, 9.0:1 would be safe w/ proper tuning. You'll have better off boost response and will need less boost to meet your goals. When I get the chance to build my block, 9.0:1 will most likely be the way I go but w/ Crower rods since I am an avid drifter and abuse the crap out of my engine...peace of mind for a few hundred dollars is priceless to me.

[Gutling]

Honestly I never have and probably won't start drifting anytime soon. About the only thing I do is 1/8th mile everynow and then, and plans for 1/4th mile. Ya after I have all this done im going to talk to scott and see if I need any changes to my ecu, and have the car dyno and widebanded. So stock mm size for headgasket is still best for the 9:0:1 pistons? i figured since both compressions are the same price, and one would make more power...why not. thank yall so much for the information so far, ive learned a lot.

[180fan]

I know what you are trying to get at and that's that the P&P's jobs were done poorly or whatever... If you want to contact somebody now about this, contact Enthalpy. He's been there, done that w/ p&p's.

As good as Scott is with rom tunes and builds, does not mean that he's the authority when it comes to p&p's. I'd probably ask the guys at JWT or see what Mike Kojima's got to say about this.

[Gutling]

okay on a side note today my car died it was running real rich after i got my ecu in from enthalpy. he said try a bunch of stuff and make sure no boost leaks/vacum leaks/spark gap/injectors working/inj rings good/fuel psi good/etc.etc. so all that done and car still runs rich, unless i cut the psi done from 36(w/vac) to about 25(w/vac) I know low but i was just trying to trouble shoot.anyway got new chips from enthalpy, put them in and the car runs about the same, but would shut off everynow and then when taking off (put it in 1st and leave light/stopsign/crimescene) no matter how far gas pedal was pushed, it would just bog cough and die. id crank it back up, and it would be good for about 3 more stops. so decided to put other chips back in, as in they were the same but i didnt shut down. put them in, crank it, and the car will barely idle, running super rich. black smoke at idle, revs rise and fall (about ~700-900) and cant reall rev it up it coughs the whole way. so put other chips back in and same thing what is it or could it be? i am still going to have the motor built probably a week or two, but it was at least in running order yesterday. id like it at least where i could drive it to the shop.

[codyace]

Kojima is certainly the guy you speak with about porting heads...

http://www.se-r.net/car_info/e...dwork

http://www.se-r.net/about/200s....html

And Lastly, here's a link to Kojima's SR20DE pointers/tips...again DE

http://www.se-r.net/car_info/e....html

[FattyMcBaggins]

I've heard the bronze valve guides aren't the best for any sort of street use. They wear quickly or something like that. Not quite sure, but i'm certain I've heard negative things about using them for daily driving use.

[Gutling]

Okay been a while but its underway. Finnaly got a list done and the parts in, and its in the shop now. Not having it ported or polished, just the block and head cleaned up, decked and cyl honed. OEM Nissan parts I ordered was Complete Engine Gasket Kit, Piston Rings, O2 Sensor, Timing Chain, Timing Chain Tensioner, PCV Valve. NISMO parts was Oil cap and thermostat. Performance was APEX'i Metal Headgasket 87/1.1, Peak Performance Gold Treated Valve Springs, ARP Head Stud Kit, ARP Rod Bolts, Greddy Rocker Arm Stoppers, Profab Design Thermal Plenium Spacer, also ordered chrome valve cover nuts, make it look pretty. Having the engine bay cleaned and all the wires done and pretty while block is out. Having the valve cover powdercoated back red. Bought a Greddy Profec B Type-s to replace my manual boost controller. Finnaly got a battery to relocate it to the back. And switching out my custom 2" intake for a 3" intake. I think thats everything. Not everything I wanted, but everything I need for a long time at least. I wanted to do a strong build without breaking the bank, and this should be a pretty stout motor. Only thing i have not ordered yet are the main/rod bearings. Anyway tell me what u think, my next steps are cams and turbo. ditched pistons/rods b/c didnt see a lot of point on plunking a grand more when i probably wont be at the power level they required for quite some time.