Building a KA24DE for the rally car. Need your help!!!

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IanS
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So the motor is in the car. Starting to wire.

Does anyone know if an S13 distributer will fit into the S14 front cover? I dont have one to test.


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The_caveman
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Yes it will, you swap distributers per swap sohc ka will not fit dohc however.

S14 dis has an internal ignitor but can be used on a s13 cover ive done it before no problems so it should work vice versa

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IanS
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The_caveman wrote:Yes it will, you swap distributers per swap sohc ka will not fit dohc however.

S14 dis has an internal ignitor but can be used on a s13 cover ive done it before no problems so it should work vice versa
Sweet. I knew the E distributer would not work, they are oil pump driven. The internal coil/ignitor is one of the reasons I would wrather use an S13 dizzy then find a new harness.

So.....

Who wants to sell me an S13 DE distributer or 2?

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IanS
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I am about ready to start making connections, but I have run into a few curious things. Nissan uses some really goofy stuff on the ignition side of life. The coil is rigged into a "Power Transistor" and a "Reducer and Condensor". I know what each of these things would do by itself, but the colaboration has me wondering. Can I just let the Link power the coil directly? Do I really need all this crap? Its just a 2 wire coil, how complicated could it be? If its too much hassel, I will just get an aftermarket coil. Also, who wants to sell me a distributer?

For pictures of engine install/the begining of wiring hell check out the Finnish Fury Rallysport build thread.

Thanks for all your help guys.

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corn322
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The cap/resistor combo I thought was to reduce electrical noise and reduce current through the coil. I'll ask the electrical guys at my work what the deal is.

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corn322
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Ok. What we came up with is the capacitor is in the circuit to keep the coil voltage stable while it's being charged/discharged rapidly. Now the resistor... I'll try to explain this as best I can. I might add pics later.

12V comes in, goes through the coil, then to a junction. One side goes to the power transistor, and flows to ground to energize the coil. When that transistor switches off to fire the spark plug, the other side of the junction goes through this 2.2k ohm resistor to the ECU.

I thought it was for misfire detection, but as there is no cylinder misfire on the ECU trouble code list, it's gotta be for code 21: Ignition signal circuit. If the power transistor is bad, or the coil is open, or a wire is broken in the circuit, it should throw code 21.

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IanS
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corn322 wrote:Ok. What we came up with is the capacitor is in the circuit to keep the coil voltage stable while it's being charged/discharged rapidly. Now the resistor... I'll try to explain this as best I can. I might add pics later.

12V comes in, goes through the coil, then to a junction. One side goes to the power transistor, and flows to ground to energize the coil. When that transistor switches off to fire the spark plug, the other side of the junction goes through this 2.2k ohm resistor to the ECU.

I thought it was for misfire detection, but as there is no cylinder misfire on the ECU trouble code list, it's gotta be for code 21: Ignition signal circuit. If the power transistor is bad, or the coil is open, or a wire is broken in the circuit, it should throw code 21.
Ok, so I did a little research. Turns out the power transistor is essentially a solid state switch that isolates the ECU from the high voltage of the coil, while also boosting voltage supply. The reducer/condensor further isolates the ignition system from the rest of the electrical. It knocks down noise, and interferance in the system. I need both. I have the transistor/ignitor wired in. Now I just need to figure out where I put the reducer/condensor, and get that wired into the system.


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