stuckinwisconsin wrote:
I need:
Rods - need to handle up to 1K hp and be LIGHT
you are correct, they will need to be light. With the long stroke and large rod ratio. Dwell time at TDC and BDC is long and the rods and pistons will be YANKED up and down after that. You will probably have to have Ti ones made. Pauter and Crower rods are rated at 200 HP each but we have pushed them harder then that in the 2JZ. I would probably recomend Oliver or Carillo
(I have no intention of hitting 1000hp EVER but would like the parts to be alot stronger than what they need to be...)
Understandable...
Pistons - same needs as rods
Light weight and strong in a piston is hard to get. We have pushed the Arias pistons to over 300 HP per hole in the 2JZ. Watch ring end gaps to keep the pistons together at high boost....
Wrist pins - Ti if possible
Dont think I have ever heard of Ti wrist pins before. Dont skimp here. Most pistons are only rated based on the wrist pins so upgrade for sure.
Valve Train - I need to find parts (or a kit) that will work together at 9500rpm and not introduce the valves to the pistons domes....Cams - Power band from 4000 to 9500. I dont care about idle and sub 4k performance
Cams and valve train will be tricky. You will most likely need it all to be custom. You cant really fit more then .5mm oversize valves in the head because the valve will end up in the cylinder walls. You said you had your head ported so go have your head flow benched. See at what lift your head stops flowing and have the cams designed around that lift. Watch out tho, the wipe pattern on a high lift cam gets awefully close to the edge of the bucket. You may end up having to go to a smaller base circle. Also, the cam lobes get reall close to the head on high lift cams. You may need to machine the head for clearance. You might find the head flows well even at really high lift which means you may even need to drop the spring pad down even further to avoid coil bind on the valve springs.
Intake maifold- Looking for individual TB's like the TODA Sports Injection Kitfor hondas..ill build the pressure box if needed or mabey the whole damn thing.
You will be on your own here. Honestly, there are really no full race options out there for KA intake manifolds right now that arent one off.
Fly Wheel - Needs to be strong...really frigging strong
Stock flywheel has been proven to over 500 whp. Stock trans is another issue. They seem to constantly break in the 500whp range.
Downpipe - ...
3.5" DP will fit between the steering shaft and the body but a 4" will need to be squeezed down a bit.
I have:
Head - Ported...waiting for valve train before anything else is doneBlock - waiting for parts before machine work starts
Think about upgrading the size of the head studs. Stock are only 10mm
Turbo - GT40R Turbo Manifold - Building this myselfCrank Shaft - Sent it to Lopez Crankshaft for a full treatment (nitrade hardening of the journals, profiling, shot peening, balanced @ 15,000rpm.....)
Some people claim that the crank and or block cant take the rpms. My understanding is they claim a harmonic develops that shakes everything loose. I dont know if these claims are coming from KA haters or if its true. I have personally spun the stock motor to 7500 but its so out of cam at that point it makes no sense to go much more. I am actually thinking about putting a set of NA racing cams and springs in a stock motor and trying to see if the motor will come apart at 10K rpms. The only thing that I could see is the single counterweighted crank MAY flex due to not being fully counterweighted and that MAY cause an issue at high RPMs...
Engine Bolts - ARPECU - MoTEC M4 Water Injection - Aquamist 2sIntercooler - 24.5x12x3 spearcoFuel Injectors - 72lb/hr MSD
72lb injectors wont be enough. You will need 95 lb injectors minimum
A Chevy 350 engine typically has a stroke around the 88-89mm mark so it has room to play. The KA has a 96mm stroke to begin with and that is on par with stock ~400cid BBC's have.stuckinwisconsin wrote:I have seen chevy 350 strokers pull up to 9k (and be happy there) so im not to worried about getting above 8k on a 96mm stroke. I am worried about the valve train though. From past experience the prep work that goes into an engine is the most important thing you can spend money on. I am planning on having everything that moves be balanced to very anal tolerances.
You are my new favorite person on this board... (J/K Ivan). I live in Eau Claire and have very similar goals to you. Where are you located?stuckinwisconsin wrote:I have seen chevy 350 strokers pull up to 9k (and be happy there) so im not to worried about getting above 8k on a 96mm stroke. I am worried about the valve train though. From past experience the prep work that goes into an engine is the most important thing you can spend money on. I am planning on having everything that moves be balanced to very anal tolerances.
you need to read a bit more with what ivan has done this guy most likely wont need to get Better rods or cryo treat ****, if its all going to be balanced the way he says and he gets 1 badass clutch and a nice rearend and and if hes going to cryo treat anything i would cryo the transmission internals or just make some custom transmission mount and throw a better transmission in there. the 600hp goal is very possible with what he is willing to spend i mean common 11k should be able to do itTheOne™ wrote:then why not a kade makin 600hp?you will need some better pistons, connecting rods and cryotreath(sp?) everything to make it stand more, it'll be expensive but if $$ isn't the limit.....sure why not.
hrm... F1 cars are V10s. just thought you might wana know. back on topic, most of us know that a ka24de's could make 600hp. its the 9500 rpm that are gona be hard. and to those who dont like high RPM's, yeah it's great to have an engine full of torque with no need to go to high RPM's but most true racecars will rev high. to go back to the example of F1 cars, they rev at 16000+ RPM. i still wish him the best of luck, and would help any way i could, though i doubt i can.AustinSilvia wrote:(look at F1 cars making 1000 hp with a 4 cylinder)
what is the bore/stroke of the average f1 motor though? im curious to see the power curve on one as well. i guess i dont see the point in transforming the ka into a honda motor.....they dont need to spin to 8k+ to make power.vvaffle wrote:
hrm... F1 cars are V10s. just thought you might wana know. back on topic, most of us know that a ka24de's could make 600hp. its the 9500 rpm that are gona be hard. and to those who dont like high RPM's, yeah it's great to have an engine full of torque with no need to go to high RPM's but most true racecars will rev high. to go back to the example of F1 cars, they rev at 16000+ RPM. i still wish him the best of luck, and would help any way i could, though i doubt i can.
I see that Ivan already schooled you about the KA, so I'm just going to add my .02 cause your post was ignorant and pissed me off. In case you didn't notice, this is the KADET forum, we like boosted KA's here. If we wanted to boost up a 2JZ or RB26, then we'd be in another forum.AustinSilvia wrote:okay, no criticism, just trying to understand your motivation here... and also lending my take on the situation...
what exactly is so appealing about making a 600 hp ka? it is not a really impressive engine at all... there are much more capable engines out there, especially in a 6 cylinder configuration.... of course a 4 cylinder is capable of doing such things (look at F1 cars making 1000 hp with a 4 cylinder), but the thing is that those engine ARE impressive, and they are very well engineered... even the renowned sr isn't that well engineered (for 600 hp anyway). sure what you want to do is possible and it would be something to brag about, but hey let's face it, it's not going to last like a 6 cylinder would. an rb would end up costing you less to modify and get to that power. phase 2 motortrend got an sr to 700+ whp, but they did it for one dyno pull and then the engine was dead, and in addition to this it was VERY expensive, and EVERYTHING on the engine was pretty much replaced... it wasn't even an sr anymore when they were done with it. if youre trying to make a car that will survive more than one pull then go with a different engine. for lower end applications (say maybe 400 hp) it may cost about the same to get an rb or some other 6 cylinder and get 400 hp or make the ka make 400hp, but once you get to 500 plus it will end up costing less for the 6 cylinder versus the 4 cylinder, and of course last longer... the 6 cylinder just won't have to work as hard for those numbers...
but please tell me if there is some special motivation for you wanting to do this, because i'm not turned off by the idea of 600hp
From your profileAustinSilvia wrote:
ummm and so i am a hater now... okay buddy.
yup i-4's but it wasn't methanol those are indy engiens it was more like jetfuel only more powerful i'd just call it rocket fuel. in qualifying trim, the bmw engine supposedly made 2000whp from 1.5L at around 56-60 psi of boost.sideshowbob wrote: f1 used to use a turbod straight 4. It ran on methonal and i'm thinking boost was upward of 30psi.