Broken block thread

[sbird1]

So uh yeah. This was the last bolt that I had to put in before my headgasket job was completed. It's a long story. The hardline was being a pain and it put too much stress on the block. Anyway, take a look at the pics and please offer me some advice!!!

[redtop91]

What the hell did you do? Is that where the banjo bolt goes?

[sbird1]

Why yes it is. The coolant line for the turbo. Do you have any advice to offer me, Ryon?

[I ask good questions]

Well it looks cross threaded to me for starters! Maybe have that hole welded shut and tap a water source from somewhere else.

[sbird1]

Is there no way I could thread it in as much as it will go and then put something around it? Some kind of sealant or something like that? It was crossthreaded. I worked on getting the hardline to match up for about 2 hours. It was really stiff and terrible to work with. I thought it was harder to turn because it was straightening out the hardline at the same time as it was going into the block. Apparently I was wrong. We added coolant and it started pouring out from that spot. I tried to take the bolt out and a piece of the block came out with it. Long story short:

If you're doing turbo work, TRASH THE HARDLINES AND BUY STAINLESS ONES OR SOMETHING EASIER TO WORK WITH!!!

[redtop91]

Get a straight view shot into the block and lemme see your banjo bolt.

[sbird1]

I can tell you that the banjo bolt looks fine. No thread damage to it at all. I will try and get a straight shot into the block.

[sbird1]

Well, I couldn't help myself. I tried to start the car with no coolant and it started up! I did the headgasket by myself and everything works! Now I just have to resolve this little issue...

[240_SeX]

Well, I couldn't help myself. I tried to start the car with no coolant and it started up! I did the headgasket by myself and everything works! Now I just have to resolve this little issue...

How do you know if its sealing well if you dont have any coolant in it?

[sbird1]

I don't think the headgasket was causing my problem in the first place (blown seals in the turbo) and I'm psyched it started which means I put everything ELSE back together properly.

[redtop91]

Stop playing Halo and get me pics so we can fix this and get you going.

[sbird1]

It's dark outside. What are you going to do with a pic of that anyway? It will thread somewhat but not seal properly. I have questions:

1) I could do like suggested above and weld over and tap somewhere else, but where else could I tap?

2) Is there a epoxy or some kind of sealant that I could thread in the bolt and then seal it temporarily?

3) Does anyone have any more ideas?

I'm thinking about trying this: http://www.epoxy.com.pk/4minutessteel.htm
Modified by sbird1 at 10:09 PM 6/12/2008

[240_SeX]

why dont you have the chunk welded back onto the block, it must line up correctly, just be sure to have the banjo bolt in the hole to prevent warping. maybe try this stuff http://www.durafix.com/My buddy used it, they show vids of how to use it and what it will fix.

[redtop91]

2) Is there a epoxy or some kind of sealant that I could thread in the bolt and then seal it temporarily?

If you show me your banjo bolt and the hole I'll be able to tell you whether or not that will work.

[sbird1]

I just talked to my dad, and we decided to try and JB Weld it, re-tap it, and then go ahead with it. I'm also getting some stainless lines to take care of those POS, god aweful, spawn of Satan hardlines. Those lines are the biggest pain in the *** I have yet encountered when working on a 240... and I'm no newbie. Anyway, any more input is appreciated!

[sbird1]

why dont you have the chunk welded back onto the block, it must line up correctly, just be sure to have the banjo bolt in the hole to prevent warping. maybe try this stuff http://www.durafix.com/My buddy used it, they show vids of how to use it and what it will fix.

That stuff looks pretty nice, but I think JB Weld will be easier to use and I won't have to worry about warping the metal.

[ryan15]

I would take everything off in that area and take it to a welder, but I dont know of they could fill it with out warping the block, probably not.

[exhsturbine]

A skilled welder, or machine shop would be able to fix it. i imagine.... that they may be able to fill the "hole" by welding it completely, grinding that same weld on the outside to match the stock fitting. and then re-tap. im sure that the machinest would be able to accomplish this without dropping slag, shards, etc into your cooling channel. i would also imagine that it wouldnt be too expensive. though whether you have to take the engine out or not i dont know, depends on the skill of the machinest. but while its more labor intensive than just j-b weld, its better than any temporary fix. of course, if you werent concerned with keeping things the way nissan engineered them, or if you have a better idea of where to find a feed without looking too "funny".... welding the hole completely and finding another place would be just as good. if you decide to go ahead with j-b... let us know how well it works, cause i will keep that in mind.

[duffman1278]

WOW!!! that is not good at ALL. I think, like what was suggested, you're probably best off getting that welded shut and getting you're coolant else where. Thats pretty sketchy to put some kind of epoxy around it.

[sbird1]

WOW!!! that is not good at ALL. I think, like what was suggested, you're probably best off getting that welded shut and getting you're coolant else where. Thats pretty sketchy to put some kind of epoxy around it.

I think it is a little bit as well, but it's by far the cheapest and easiest solution to the problem. As long as it's reliable over time (we'll see if it is) it's cool with me.

[ryan15]

Really though, if you were going through the the hassle of welding at all, it would be wise to drill and retap.

[burntricer]

easy fix. go to your local hydraulics store,get a AN fitting that will thread into the cooling channel, you still have a good amount of thread left, wrap the an fitting with teflon tape, and thread it into the block,

then have a braided line made, and thread it onto the fitting that is now in the block. it should seal without issue, because the AN fittings, take the coolant from the end of the fitting, no more banjos'

[sbird1]

^^^ GOOD IDEA!!!

We are investigating this currently. I have some stainless that I bought a while back for power steering that I have not used. We have 2 of the 4 required fittings here and are trying to make a hose. The AN fitting does thread into the block. We'll see if it can thread in far enough. Thanks for the great idea!!!

[sbird1]

Ok, guys. Small update. I havn't gotten anything to work. I've JB Welded the broken piece back on, coated the threads in JB Weld and tried to re-tap it. The AN fitting is in, but I'm not sure how well it's in there. So here's my question.

There is another coolant hole with a plug in it right under the turbo coolant spot on the block. Does anyone know if that can be used for an alternate spot? I'm getting frustrated with this whole thing. Any info is appreciated!

This is the spot I'm talking about:

You can see the plug sticking out of the block on the bottom of the picture.

Modified by sbird1 at 2:03 PM 6/24/2008
Modified by sbird1 at 2:04 PM 6/24/2008

[240_SeX]

yes i belive that is just a block drain. you could use it

[sbird1]

That's good news. Can anyone else corroborate that?

[IDriveFords]

almost positive thats a block drain as stated above and yes you could use it. Just to be sure take that plug out and put some water in the cooling system see if it comes out from where that plug used to be.

[sbird1]

The plugged alternate spot has a tapered thread... forgot to say that.

Ok, so I've made some progress. That other spot that has the tapered thread is something strange. I assumed it was a tapered kind of 14mm x 1.5 thread pattern, but after talking to a performance shop, I found out that pipe threads (tapered threads) are all standard measurement. So instead of what I thought I needed, I now know that I need a 3/8" NPT thread AN fitting. Anyway, so yeah, Japan uses Standard measure NPT threads. Thought I'd share my discovery.

[Hijacker]

+1 for having a skilled welder do it.

TIG shouldn't drop much slag. I just wouldn't trust a cold weld or an epoxy to hold up to the stresses of what's going to course through there.

[sbird1]

Agreed. I'm going to JB Weld the plug in the busted spot until I can get it to a shop to have it welded up for good.