Breaking loose rusted bolts - A tip!

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480sx
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numbnuts240 wrote:
qft. i found a couple of 1/4 full cans in my garage that i ended up using up. s*** is the bomb. i haven't found any in the store yet
Yea they wont sell directly to the public because its so hard core.


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PapaSmurf2k3
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I can get my hands on enough ATF to rust proof new england... this is awesome. Hope the acetone doesn't evaporate out, or eat through the plastic spray bottle.

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AZhitman
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480sx wrote:
Yea they wont sell directly to the public because its so hard core.
Ummm, no.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Kro...09CF4

It's not even as "hard core" as acetone + ATF.

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RCA
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That is such a cool idea (Dawn and Coffee)!

Also I wouldn't use salt, I would try sand. It's free.

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This is a great thread.

I'll need to break loose the crank bolt on my NA6 this weekend, and this is just what the doctor ordered.


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480sx
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Meh, find it at any store front.. Thats the only way you can get it that i know of, ordering it online or finding a private supplier.

LOL there isnt much as hard core as far as a penetrant-lubricant as acetone and ATF lmfao!

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Red coupe wrote:wonder if dawn and salt would work good... would be cheaper for those of us who hate coffee, and should be grittier?
i would think that salt would be the last thing you want to use after your wrench just slipped, busting open the skin covering your knuckle

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AZhitman
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480sx wrote:LOL there isnt much as hard core as far as a penetrant-lubricant as acetone and ATF lmfao!
What's funny?

Kano Kroil ………… 106 pounds

-ATF-Acetone mix….53 pounds

Half the force required. Cheaper. Easier to find. Seems pretty cut-and-dried to me.

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AZhitman
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numbnuts240 wrote:
i would think that salt would be the last thing you want to use after your wrench just slipped, busting open the skin covering your knuckle
Sissy.

I spray brake cleaner on my garage wounds.

Cauterizes it instantly, and if feels REAL good when it stops stinging.

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qat727
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Just from garage use, I always thought Kroil was better than PB Blaster... at last the evidence to prove it.

I'll definitely try the ATF/Acetone mix, though.

And at least around here, there's a small auto parts store that has most of the local government contracts. They keep Kroil in stock. It's about $40 a gallon now, though (and that's pretty much going rate).

Expensive, yes, but when mixed with oil and WD40 and a few other solvents and dumped into the cylinders of a frozen engine, I haven't found anything better to free one yet.

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Heck, I clean my eyes out with brake cleaner from time to time.


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I might whip up a batch of this stuff this upcoming weekend.

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Red coupe
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AZhitman wrote:
Sissy.

I spray brake cleaner on my garage wounds.

Cauterizes it instantly, and if feels REAL good when it stops stinging.
Back in autoshop my teacher used to tell us stories of a study on some guy who wound up with skin cancer. They came to found out that the guy was a mechanic, and would wash up his hands and arms at the end of every day with brake cleaner... I suppose it seemed like a good idea at the time.

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Wouldn't surprise me.

Although, I'd bet it was more attributable to the asbestos dust and the carcinogenic petroleum-based compounds he worked with all day.

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Or his lack of sun screen

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AZhitman
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Or his 2-pack-a-day habit.

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Do you have a link to the article, I'd be interested to see just how rusted those bolts were. I have to replace all the bushings on my sub-frame and live in the NE, while you SW people might have to deal with rusting from rain, we have to deal with rusting from salt and sand and everything else they put on the roads to prevent icing, plus with the drastic temperature changes we get in the winter our sub-frame bolts are damn near impossible to get off without a torch, a hammer, and an impact gun, and then we just replace them with all new hardware.


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480sx
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AZhitman wrote:Kano Kroil ………… 106 pounds

-ATF-Acetone mix….53 pounds

Half the force required. Cheaper. Easier to find. Seems pretty cut-and-dried to me.
Kroil is specifically made for this industry, and is great stuff. Its a little more tried and tested in MANY different rusted/nasty bolt situations. That was a single lab test.

106 foot pounds is REALLY easy to apply on most bolts. Really, really really easy with the right tools. So, the whole idea of it being 53 pounds is great but, its just not really significant enough to home brew a significantly volatile chemical with its fair share of health risks with ATF. ATF is pretty nasty stuff in and of itself lol, but its not going to get into the air or splatter/spray the way Acetone will. Acetone is a fairly strong thinning agent, so im guessing the end result is very much like a low viscosity fluid.

Kroil comes in big aerosol cans that spray out exactly how much you need where you need it from a distance. If i need to use a penetrant-lubricant(kroil), i spray it and get out of the shop while it sets in for 5 min.

The flip side of that is god only knows how bad Kroil is to breathe lmao so, who knows.


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MSDS Sheet for Kano Kroil Aerosolhttps://secure.concentric.com/...e.pdf

MSDS Sheet for Kano Kroil Liquidhttps://secure.concentric.com/...d.pdf

Kano Home page has a link to all MSDS sheets for all of their productshttp://www.kanolabs.com/

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just tried the ATF acetone combo

removed a mount on the back of a diff w this.

and the one bolt was stripped

great success.... wish i thought about pouring some in a bottle and mixing it.

i just used a set of gloves and poured ATF on the bolt, then some acetone

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A buddy of mine used to buy some pro-lube crap for his motor. It came with a penetrating oil in a can. Best stuff I've ever used. Fortunately, he was anal retentive enough to keep buying the pro-lube crap so I have a few of his extra cans of the penetrating oil in my garage. Not sure how it compares to everything but liquid wrench and WD-40 (which is a joke). It works better than liquid wrench for sure.

The only downside I see to the ATF/acetone mix is that it doesn't come in an aerosol can for easy application. Someone should seriously market this crap if it works this good...

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C-Kwik wrote:A buddy of mine used to buy some pro-lube crap for his motor. It came with a penetrating oil in a can. Best stuff I've ever used. Fortunately, he was anal retentive enough to keep buying the pro-lube crap so I have a few of his extra cans of the penetrating oil in my garage. Not sure how it compares to everything but liquid wrench and WD-40 (which is a joke). It works better than liquid wrench for sure.
Does this mystery oil have a name or is it just a generic can. Please share with the rest of the class.

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I've been using this for quite a while now and it works awesome. I mix it up in a 1qt spray bottle and rock and roll. Just give it a quick shake before each use.

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480sx
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Chaotic's Link PDF on Kroil wrote:Inhalation: Remove victim to fresh air.
LMAO!

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I need to get a subscription to GRM.

The only magazine I get anymore is Japanese Nostalgic Car (I also buy Moto-Champ at a JPN bookstore).

JNC isn't terribly practical though, more anecdotal and "gee, that's cool".

If GRM has tips like this, I need to start getting it.

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480sx
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C-Kwik wrote: Not sure how it compares to everything but liquid wrench and WD-40 (which is a joke).
Not trying to take this out of context so excuse me if i am doing so.

WD-40 is great for certain things, just not as a penetrant. For a chemical to be effective at breaking loose bolts it has to penetrate through the oxidized metal, and WD-40 simply doesnt do this effectively at all.

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Chaotic_Warlord wrote:
Does this mystery oil have a name or is it just a generic can. Please share with the rest of the class.
I believe it is actually called Pro-Lube. I can double check when I get home. I have a feeling that its actually a rebranded product though. But it does indeed work quite well.
480sx wrote:
Not trying to take this out of context so excuse me if i am doing so.

WD-40 is great for certain things, just not as a penetrant. For a chemical to be effective at breaking loose bolts it has to penetrate through the oxidized metal, and WD-40 simply doesnt do this effectively at all.
Precisely. But the context of the discussion is as a penetrating oil. I have used WD-40 to remove water after honing an engine and washing the cylinder walls with soap and water. It has its purpose. But its not as a penetrating oil...contrary to its primary marketting...

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AZhitman wrote:
Spray away and get your nuts loose!
Right on it, Chief!

but srsly I wish I would have known this about a year ago when I was changing the transmission on my 77 blazer. Damn. I had to let the PB blaster sit for about 15 minutes in order to get them off without breaking the head off the bolts.

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HashiriyaS14 wrote:If GRM has tips like this, I need to start getting it.
Definitely, GRM is chock full of greatness. It's the only car magazine i actually pay to subscribe to.

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