Brand new alt belt snaps 2.8 minutes after leaving dealership

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DrewQ45
Posts: 2020
Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2002 2:01 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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BlackBirdVQ wrote:Oil pump is good, reason for the low to no oil pressure ? Clogged up oil screen. Looks like blue RTV or something that looks similar to blue was in my pickup screen. I used black Mopar ATF rebuild RTV as it holds up good to very thin oils like AFT for instance, so that RTV is not from me putting the motor togheter.
Honestly man, I can't agree with the rebuilding of an overheated VH engine, especially when you don't know the extent to which it ran hot. There's just too much that can be missed and depending on the severity, you're either dealing with warpage + compromised seals and conduits. In the grand scheme of things, it may work out cheaper to just get a take out engine.


Q45tech
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Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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Never seen a bad oil pump on any Q other than those eaten thru by chains after guide failure, stretched oil chains not changed every 150k or so. or at least going in and replacing [tightening] oil chain guide.

The only cases of under 14 psi hot idle oil pressure from failure to tighten crank pulley CORRECTLY or sludge from lack of 90 day oil changes.

At least once per year since 1997 we have purchased a Q with oil light on [less than 3 psi].................2 [96] seen 4, mostly 94>90.

Even FAILURE to replace 90-93 guides is OWNER ABUSE since we and all dealers [at least those in ATLANTA] WARN 90-93 Q owners to examine the guides. After all the dealer wants the revenue....nothing to lose by telling owner and much to gain..................either in replacement or buying the blown car for $500.

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Q451990
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Posts: 11030
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:21 am
Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
Location: Columbia, SC
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Q45tech wrote:Even FAILURE to replace 90-93 guides is OWNER ABUSE since we and all dealers [at least those in ATLANTA] WARN 90-93 Q owners to examine the guides.
Oh if only it were true in here in Columbia! I can absolutely confirm that the service advisors at d!ck Smith Infiniti are not aware of the issue. I talked to them last January to get an estimate for the insurance claim on "Q1." I could have been speaking Latin and gotten the same response...

Heath

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BlackBirdVQ
Posts: 314
Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2005 2:17 pm
Car: 93 G20, 94 Q45, 00 Altima, 01 Maxima- quite a few

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FarFetched wrote:If you knw that you are going on a trip, then you should have done it some time before the trip. A week or so before!That is what you are paying to have it done at the last minute.I am sorry, I am being rude but this is true!Seriously, never procrastinate things you can do on time!Cheers!P.S IMHO those pin-heads should compensate you for all your troubles. Servicing a car for 8 hrs call for opening of a can of whoopa$$!
I think you missed my whole post here, I never let anyone touch ANY of my cars. I bought this car last year overheated and slowly rebuilt it back to OEM. I am working on this car all by myself, so if anything goes on it- its my fault. I can't blame myself for having the rod bearing issue now- I didn't touch the lower end of the motor when I did head gaskets on it. Plus I never had any warnings of the bearings going till they went. I was going to go ona trip with the car, but since it will be just getting broken in- I don't wanna risk any problems down the highway.

To all the other replies...I checked my block before I put it back togheter, it checked out perfect with a straight edge, and cylinder bores where perfectly aligned. The block and heads are in good shape. I've seen some SEVERELY overheated engines in my life- like a Integra which someone left runing for 24 hours in our parking lot and blew the radiator durring some time. Car actually stopped runing, after doing a head gasket and head straightnening the car is still roaming around.

It takes TREMENDEOUS temperatures to warp the crankshaft, and if that is not warped and my block is not warped, what is wrong with my VH ?

Its getting new rod bearings and that is it. Unless the crank is scored- I will NOT buy a used engine with unknown maintenance records. I actually have a stack of maintenance recepits in the glove box from the previous owner.

If the engine spins another rod bearing year or 2 from now, I will just rebuild it again. For now I need to get this car going as my Maxima is in the body shop and I have nothing else to drive. My Q is a 1000 dollar car pretty much, no matter how I look at it, 1000 dollar car or xxxx+ dollars less in my pocket every week because I can't drive to work is bad. Its just a hoppty and that is IT.

I've considered just trading it in at Nissan on a 03 M45 even, but I do not do car payments.


DrewQ45
Posts: 2020
Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2002 2:01 pm
Car: 1990 Infiniti Q45

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BlackBirdVQ wrote:I've considered just trading it in at Nissan on a 03 M45 even, but I do not do car payments.
AMEN!!!

Btw, Farfetched's post was meant for the original poster, not you.

LOL, you hijacked this post so long ago you forgot?

...Drew...

Q45tech
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Posts: 14296
Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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Plus I never had any warnings of the bearings going till they went.

SAY WHAT-------------Oil analysis done frequently will show you the top layer wear off long before you even reach the copper!

Even though I change oil every 90 days [using 10w40 conventional now] I still try to get at analysis every 15k even at 306k.

The HOT IDLE oil pressure graphed* every year will show you tremendous data.* Cranked and cold then coolant temp vs psi logging minutes also.........takes 15 minutes.

No Consult measure voltage/resistance from sensor and create a table for temperature.

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE MEANS FREQUENT TESTING TO CATCH PROBLEMS BEFORE THEY GET SERIOUS.

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louiegz
Posts: 1312
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2003 6:17 am
Car: 2003 BMW 330i, 2007 Audi A3 3.2 Quattro

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Hey Blackbird, don't let the naysayers get you down. Seems to me that you know what your doing and once you get into the engine again, you'll have a better idea of what's going on and if it's worth fixing. Putting in another engine would be the easy thing to do, but you don't know the history of the engine. Not only that, it seems to me that you enjoy doing this engine work anyway,

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BlackBirdVQ
Posts: 314
Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2005 2:17 pm
Car: 93 G20, 94 Q45, 00 Altima, 01 Maxima- quite a few

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Q45tech wrote:Plus I never had any warnings of the bearings going till they went.

SAY WHAT-------------Oil analysis done frequently will show you the top layer wear off long before you even reach the copper!

Even though I change oil every 90 days [using 10w40 conventional now] I still try to get at analysis every 15k even at 306k.

The HOT IDLE oil pressure graphed* every year will show you tremendous data.* Cranked and cold then coolant temp vs psi logging minutes also.........takes 15 minutes.

No Consult measure voltage/resistance from sensor and create a table for temperature.

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE MEANS FREQUENT TESTING TO CATCH PROBLEMS BEFORE THEY GET SERIOUS.
Ok here, listen up man.... I am not going to send oil samples to blackstone labs on a 1000 dollar car, or a 100K dollar car- to me its STUPID. I sold my 90 Max SE 5spd with 340K miles on the original engine with no rod knock problems, or any problems other than the 3 timing belts and some idler pulleys, couple sets of injectors. I've had rod bearing failures on my Sentras in the past, and with 155K miles on my Maxima I am not about to start doing oil analysis eighter.

I am sick of you telling me what I need to do in order to succeed or what not. I will take the neccessary steps to correct my engine problem wheater you like them or not. Any shoulda, coulda, woulda statements you can keep to yourself as this rod knock problem is not caused by me, the overheated engine or goverment conspiracy. No one will know why it went, and I am not going to buy a bone yard motor with unknown mileage, condition etc- so I can spend 1000 bux plus another 300 in neccessary parts to make it good again. My Engine will be fine with 100 dollars in rod bearings and 300 dollar oil pan.

I love engine work, anyone can do spark plugs, fuel filters and oil changes.... but what separates the real mechanics from normal mechanics is the skill to overtake big problems, and their ambition to do so. It seems like you have no ambition or skills as you reather just put another engine in a car reather than fix the one that is already in the car.

Im sorry for hijaking the tread, I will post back in a week with my new rodbearings- yes it can be done, all it takes is dedication and a lil love.


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