Brake and handling upgrade

[PoorManQ45]

I know that there have been previous posts on this subject, but I have some new questions.

What brake rotors fit the Q45? Will rotors made for any other Nissan/Infiniti vehicles fit the Q?

What calipers fit the Q? Do calipers made for other Nissan vehicles fit the Q?

What front strut tower brace should be used on the Q?

What are the suspension upgrade options for the Q? I know about the Tokico stuff, but is there anything else? Does anybody make adjustable coilovers or shocks/struts for the Q?

I need new tires. I have rims that are 16 x 8in. I would like them to be as wide as possible. have good wet and dry traction. Noise does not matter to me. I would like to stay under $90 each. Any suggestions?

[texasoil]

A FSTB from a Maxima will fit nicely. Slight modification to mounting plates necessary (trin lug length, drill new hole, drill new hole in plate to fit strut mount bolts.

[Mark86T]

I know that there have been previous posts on this subject, but I have some new questions.

What brake rotors fit the Q45? Will rotors made for any other Nissan/Infiniti vehicles fit the Q?Z32 TT rotorsWhat calipers fit the Q? Do calipers made for other Nissan vehicles fit the Q?Z32 TT calipers

What are the suspension upgrade options for the Q? I know about the Tokico stuff, but is there anything else? Does anybody make adjustable coilovers or shocks/struts for the Q?I have TT coilovers that will fit the Q. Basically the TT suspension will bolt into the Q. Not sure how suited it would be for a 4,000+lb car though. I have already put solid adjustable tension rods on my Q from my TT. I plan on putting in adjustable front & rear upper control arms from my TT along with an entire rear suspension & diff from a Z32 N/A for the 4.08 gearing & all the solid bushings that were put into my N/A rear suspension. I will post pics when I finish. Hopefully next weekend.

[PoorManQ45]

You posted in the quote.

Where did you get the coilovers from?

Does the top mount(hat) of the 300zx have the same pattern as that of the Q45? If so, wouldn't that mean that any shock/coilover made for the 300zx would fit the Q? As long as it could take the weight, of course.

[AZhitman]

Lots of rotors have the same bolt pattern, but any upgrade in diameter will require custom brackets. I'd recommend twin turbo Supra rotors for max diameter, or 3000GT rotors, with some 300ZX aluminum calipers or some Skyline calipers... No Nissan (besides Skyline) has larger ones, although the rear 300ZX rotors are vented. Really no need unless you're doing road course / autocross.

Tires? 255/50/16. Tire Rack is a great source, and that's a PERFECT size for the Q. Extra load rating, nice width, and OEM diameter.

[PoorManQ45]

Lots of rotors have the same bolt pattern, but any upgrade in diameter will require custom brackets. I'd recommend twin turbo Supra rotors for max diameter, or 3000GT rotors, with some 300ZX aluminum calipers or some Skyline calipers... No Nissan (besides Skyline) has larger ones, although the rear 300ZX rotors are vented. Really no need unless you're doing road course / autocross.

Well, if I were going to change the brake rotors and calipers, I probably wouldn't be using OEM equipment. I mean, what would be the point of that?

I'm talking about using something from Brambo or Baer brakes. Maybe some 4 or 6 piston calipers up front and 2 or 4 piston calipers in back. Those combined with Slooted and/or Drilled rotors would significantly reduce stopping distance, correct? I mean, as long as the tires could provide the grip/traction.

Tires? 255/50/16. Tire Rack is a great source, and that's a PERFECT size for the Q. Extra load rating, nice width, and OEM diameter.

Do you have any recommendations? As you've seen before, I don't really know how to choose tires. I can't figure out what the load ratings are.

Also, what would the aspect have to be if the tire were 245mm or 235mm wide, to keep them OEM diameter?

Would there be anything wrong with using different width tires front and rear? Maybe 255mm in back and 225 or 235 in front. Or, should the wider tires be infront, to increase cornering ability?

[louiegz]

Do you have any recommendations? As you've seen before, I don't really know how to choose tires. I can't figure out what the load ratings are.

Those 255/50/16s have a load rating of 99. It says it on both the Tire Rack & Discount Tire web site on how to read tire info. Do some research. The Hitman mentioned once that he had Falkens on his 16" rims, but I doupt you can get them for under $90.

I'm talking about using something from Brambo or Baer brakes. Maybe some 4 or 6 piston calipers up front and 2 or 4 piston calipers in back. Those combined with Slooted and/or Drilled rotors would significantly reduce stopping distance, correct? I mean, as long as the tires could provide the grip/traction.

Not to be an a-hole, but why are you even talking about getting 4 piston calipers when you won't even pay retail for plenum hoses. We know your cheap. Your not going to spend more money than what your car is worth to upgrade calipers, big rotors, and the 18 in rims you'll need to fit those rotors. Most likely, your brake upgrade will be cheap pads at Napa and you'll resurface the rotors with a hand sander. And you'll still ***** about the price. I'm sure the rest of you guys would agree with me.
Modified by louiegz at 1:41 AM 10/3/2004

[1992Q45A]

100% agreed

[AZhitman]

That's why i didn't reply yet.

All that info is here for the searching, since it's just being used for edification, not modification.

[pito11213]

Well guys actually me and PMQ got into a conversation about the braking stuff for the Q. He just got to posting before me.

I wanted to know what were the other options for bigger rotors for the Q? Right now I have stock rims.

So the 300zx rotors are not bigger? But is there some sort of benefit to using them? I would like to use some slotted rotors for better cooling and performance. I noticed when I was running the Q and stopping that the heat fade was terrible.

What are the general feelings of the stillen FSTB? Are they even good?

I have no plan of dropping the Q but I would like some nice 18" rims. I saw the brembo big brake kit but that is $2700 just for the front.

I would just like to know the possible options as far as slotted rotors,better/bigger calipers. Would a change to the master cylinder be necessary?

[AZhitman]

Quick response:

I already answered the "bigger brakes" question. Be prepared to fabricate precision brackets for the calipers AND upgrade to a 17 or 18" wheel.

300ZX rotors have more venting (thicker overall but the same mass).

If you're getting brake fade with OEM pads and rotors, something else is wrong. I'd bet your pads are glazed, which happens with substandard pads (regardless of what the guy at PepBoys would have you believe).

FSTB is (IMO) the second-best mod for the Q for the $. Bar none. Tires are #1.

A Q on 18's but not lowered will look a little odd.

Unless you have the ULTIMATE in tires, you'll never see any return on your brake investment.

A nice inexpensive upgrade for you would be new slotted rotors all the way around (I have a wholesale deal stickied at the top of the forum), SS brake lines and some 300ZX aluminum calipers in front.

However, you're STILL looking at a grand, and doing any of this with "normal" tires is an exercise in throwing $ away.

[elwesso]

AFter parting out my Q, i wonder how bad it would be to swap in front Q brakes into the rear...?

[Q45tech]

The rear only does 30% of the braking at most. Don't confuse multiple pistons 2,3,4,,,,6 for anything special.

The newer Q use the J30 rear thicker heavier vented rotor and caliper.

Most big brake kits don't have perfect fore/aft balance to fit the ABS program so distances are not improved if any.......hit or miss depending on pads.

Most hot fade is brake fluid and pads.

I tested my Q [powerstop and MM pads, 94 wheels, Pilot 235] the rotors never got to 750F [measured 744F] coming down a mountain where I intentionally faded the brakes the syntec fluid boiled [from looking at it the next day]. Planning on changing to Motul 600.

After 6 months exposure [in the Q brake system] the blended dry/wet boiling temp of Dot 3 is 343F, Dot 4 is 379F, Syntec is 423F, and Motul 600 is 503F.

A critical decision for those of us that only change and flush once per year.As moisture content gets almost to 2% in 12 months in [48" annual rain fall]ATL [as measured by the brake fluid test strips from caliper output fluid].

Q with less [harder compound] tires than the oem 170 requirement surely stop longer than 129 feet from 60 mph......probably in the 150 foot range.

[rsiwicki]

see link and for you all asking the questions...seriously try searching the archives first

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....59504

also see the pic of the Q with the wildwood system on it....looks very impressive however as others have said, nobody wants to fork over the $$ after hearing about the costs....

but this is the only person we were able to find after several memebers searched all over for where we could get a brake upgrade of this magnitude

[pito11213]

Hey Rob I noticed you said you were going to get them...did you? Thanks for the info and that kit is alot better than the available kit at stillen. $1800 is pretty good considering what you are getting. I am going to look into getting the car up to par and then go into the performance phase. The way I see it, it doesn't make sense to upgrade a car that wasnt at least 90% up to specs just to do further damage at a high dollar. The Q would definately be a better car with a brake upgrade and suspension upgrade.

[rsiwicki]

my mad dash for performance mods are on hold for right now as I weigh the dilema of whether to continue or stop the madness. I have already spent serious $$ on the car and it runs really nicely and the only speed mod left is a carbon fiber driveshaft without going NOS or SC. My goal when I started this madness (Spring '04)was to build a 14.0 or less 1/4 ET car, but I now know that this is impossible for the Q. So I now am leaning toward just keeping the car as it is and put my monies into my new car that I will be buying as I plan by this winter/spring to buy a very sporty and fast convert. After I buy the convert I will decide the fate of my trust worthy Q as it has been a very good car, but I want more out of it than it can give me no matter how much love I give it....so the the Q's fate will be either to sell it or to keep it as a rainy day driver or when I need to haul more than 2 people in a car as the convert will be tight in the back seat. Otherwise I would have been all done with all the mods (brakes, carbon fiber driveshaft, etc.) by now if I ran a 14.0 ET this past July.....as I started all these mods this past Spring and have already spent about 3 times the car's current value in my quest for mods.

Yes...you want to make sure your car is 100% OEM specs before you do the mods or at least when something does break you want to replace it with a more performance oriented part. Unlike myself...I put in a $3,500 transmission that I really did not need as my current transmission had been rebuilt about a year earlier with no problems, but I was going all out on my mad desire for a 14.0 ET.

The Stillen kit (Skyline) will run you $1,500 for all 4 brakes and ask for Kenny at Stillen, this kit by Brake World will run you $1,800 just for front or rear and probably can get a discount if you do all 4's at once. Brake Worlds kit is the cheapest out there by far....and I believe to be the best option for the monies, but it is difficult to find somebody to spend $3,600+installation for brakes on a car worth about $5,000 on average for a really well maintained car and you just do not get your monies back out of mods...the party you sell your car to gets the benefits.

[PoorManQ45]

Ok, I come to a conclusion. you guys are a bunch of a-holes that just don't like me. When I asked about upgrading the brake system, what do I get? A bunch of ****. But when pito jumps in and starts asking questions, you start giving him answers. Morons.

The rear only does 30% of the braking at most. Don't confuse multiple pistons 2,3,4,,,,6 for anything special.

Um... there is something special about them. Having multiple piston calipers allows the pad to be applied to the rotor more evenly. Also, having more pistons can get the same job done with less pressure. And, m the more pistons you have, the larger the brake pads can be. The larger the pads can be, the more friction that can be exerted on the rotors.

Those 255/50/16s have a load rating of 99. It says it on both the Tire Rack & Discount Tire web site on how to read tire info. Do some research. The Hitman mentioned once that he had Falkens on his 16" rims, but I doupt you can get them for under $90.

Do all 255/50/16s have a load rating of 99?

Not to be an a-hole, but why are you even talking about getting 4 piston calipers when you won't even pay retail for plenum hoses. We know your cheap. Your not going to spend more money than what your car is worth to upgrade calipers, big rotors, and the 18 in rims you'll need to fit those rotors.

See, you're intupreting my "cheapness" as me being stupid. Am I stupid for trying to do an under-plenum job for under $100? If you think I'm stupid/cheap for doing this, you are sadly mistaken. I think that all of you guys that paid $300+ for RUBBER HOSES are idiots. There is nothing special about OEM ****. And that's what it is, ****. Come on guys. You should think about this stuff. Especially you Q45Tech, you are the smartest guy on this forum. You should realize that there is nothing special about the OEM hoses. So, why have none of you atleast tried what I am doing, before? Is it because you like spending more money than necessary? Well, that's your choice. Learn the value of things before you buy them. And by value, I don't mean what other people pay for something. I mean learn what it actually costs to make something and what other people are selling the same thing for.

Most likely, your brake upgrade will be cheap pads at Napa and you'll resurface the rotors with a hand sander. And you'll still ***** about the price.

Avidently, you have not read anything that I posted on other threads about my brakes. I don't have to upgrade/buy new pads or have my rotors resurfaced. I have a lifetime warranty on both of these components. So, they don't cost me any extra. BTW, I also cross-drilled my own rotors

[rsiwicki]

PMQ....it is that you ask or make statements that are outside of the box to say the least. We have already been down the path of just about all the questions you have for the Q45 and how it works and what mods are available for it. Just spend some time going through all the archives vs asking questions that have already been answered for you. Trust me we all seek a cheaper quality alternative, but there is nothing cheap about the Q. Yes...you might get away with some backyard homemade tricks here and there, but sooner or later it will catch up to you either on this car or another car.

btw.....do you mind explaining yourself a little more as per your quote below

"I don't have to upgrade/buy new pads or have my rotors resurfaced. I have a lifetime warranty on both of these components. So, they don't cost me any extra. BTW, I also cross-drilled my own rotors"

cause I don't know how the hell you have a lifetime warranty on rotors you cross drilled yourself. There is no legal way any company in their right mind would validate a warranty on rotors you cross drilled yourself!!! besides...there are several issues about cross drilling your rotors yourself that can lead to huge safety concern

[1992Q45A]

See, you're intupreting my "cheapness" as me being stupid. Am I stupid for trying to do an under-plenum job for under $100? If you think I'm stupid/cheap for doing this, you are sadly mistaken. I think that all of you guys that paid $300+ for RUBBER HOSES are idiots. There is nothing special about OEM ****. And that's what it is, ****. Come on guys. You should think about this stuff. Especially you Q45Tech, you are the smartest guy on this forum. You should realize that there is nothing special about the OEM hoses. So, why have none of you atleast tried what I am doing, before? Is it because you like spending more money than necessary? Well, that's your choice. Learn the value of things before you buy them. And by value, I don't mean what other people pay for something. I mean learn what it actually costs to make something and what other people are selling the same thing for

Such poison on this forum

[Q45tech]

My point has always been that $300 hoses are so infintesimal a part of the $9,000 [maintenance and repair] cost [15 cents per mile] to drive a older Q45 for the next 60,000-75,000 miles after the hoses First need replacing.Why bother reinventing the wheel.Almost everything you buy [at oem standards] for replacement has that kind of [+60,000 mile] life if not longer except maybe upper links, brake pads and rotors, of course tires and some suspension rubber bushings and drive belts.

Spend your energies on things that fail repeatedly in shorter time periods than plenum hoses or just in collecting things that fail so you are ready and the parts are in inventory at lowest cost.

Based on thousands of repair tickets labor is 45-55% of the bills [probably even more considering abilities to buy parts at 25% off list or in expensive states like California.............do it yourself is the biggest cost saver.

[pito11213]

Hey wicki, does the skyline package give the same benefit? Sorry for the ignorance but I dont know about these brakes. The price you stated for the skyline kit is something I could live with considering the benefit.

By the way I noticed that the only time I feel like the brakes need that extra push was when I was doing some 90+ runs and kept having to hit the brakes. I mean, I have to consider that this car weights 5100 according to the sticker. That is a lot of moving mass to stop at high speeds. In comparison when stopping my old t-bird it was like holding on and praying for my life. In the Q it is like "damn do I have to slow down I am enjoying the feel of fastness"

[rsiwicki]

the skyline package should do the job nicely considering it will be both the front and rears done at the same time keeping the balance of the car inline vs. just doing the fronts. I have no idea on how much of an improvement the skylines are over stock. We have 2 or so members with them who have no complaints but we don't have any quantative data.

I know what you mean about braking...I have some problems slightly when braking from 90-0 and then do it again shortly afterwards not letting the brakes cool down.

[maxnix]

Why bother reinventing the wheel.

Evidently some people look at a wheel and wonder why it doesn't have corners.

Then that person assumes he is an innovator.

[louiegz]

As usual PMQ, you have totaly missed the point of what I have to say. What I was saying is that if your so cheap, why are you even talking about expensive brake upgrade that you will never do. STOP WASTING PEOPLE"S TIME! And do some research on the tire thing. The info is on the Tire Rack site. LOOK IT UP! The time you spend on your long posts could be better spent on doing reserch and learning. My father always said that you will never learn talking and not listening.

[PoorManQ45]

cause I don't know how the hell you have a lifetime warranty on rotors you cross drilled yourself. There is no legal way any company in their right mind would validate a warranty on rotors you cross drilled yourself!!! besides...there are several issues about cross drilling your rotors yourself that can lead to huge safety concern

If you didn't notice, I put a roll-eyes thingy at the end of that statement. I did not mean it literally. I only posted that in response to someone saying that I probably resurface my rotors with a hand sander. I have not cross-drilled my own rotors. I have thought about it though. I mean, I have most of the required tools. A wet drill press, steel lathe, and a few micrometers. I would need to have the discs spun and balanced after I did this. But, I know that I should not do this mod myself, because not all discs were meant to have holes in them. Drilling them myself would cause them to crack under stress.

Such poison on this forum

Explain!

My point has always been that $300 hoses are so infintesimal a part of the $9,000 [maintenance and repair] cost [15 cents per mile] to drive a older Q45 for the next 60,000-75,000 miles after the hoses First need replacing.Why bother reinventing the wheel.Almost everything you buy [at oem standards] for replacement has that kind of [+60,000 mile] life if not longer except maybe upper links, brake pads and rotors, of course tires and some suspension rubber bushings and drive belts.

I understand all that. I guess what I'm really looking for is a cheap alternative. If my under-plenum hoses last 10,000 miles, I will be happy with them. Ya know why? Because I can replace them again for ~$35. Also, if my "custon" hoses break, I will try another method.Q45Tech: could you take a look at this hose for me.http://www.lowes.com/lkn?actio...43356Do you think that this type of hose would work for Air/Vacuum lines? To go from OEM parts to this kind of hose, I would have to use a small length of rubber hose, a connector that is barbed on one side and threaded on the other. Do you think this methid would work?

Evidently some people look at a wheel and wonder why it doesn't have corners.

I often wondered why they don't have corners.

As usual PMQ, you have totaly missed the point of what I have to say. What I was saying is that if your so cheap, why are you even talking about expensive brake upgrade that you will never do. STOP WASTING PEOPLE"S TIME!

Me being cheap should have nothing to do with how you guys respond to my questions. I asked about a brake upgrade because I was/am wondering if it could be done. Am I ever going to do this upgrade? Maybe, sometime in the future. But right now, I'm still in the wondering/planning phase.

The time you spend on your long posts could be better spent on doing reserch and learning.

Question. If you guys keep telling other members and myself to go research things before we ask questions, what is the point of us asking questions at all? I mean, if I go find all of the information, there would be no reason to ask you guys any questions. That does not mean that I don't research stuff, because I do. But, there are something that I can not find on the Internet. That is why I ask questions.

My father always said that you will never learn talking and not listening.

Your father is a smart man

[AZhitman]

I answered your question IN ITS ENTIRETY.

And I did so quite well.

You just don't like the answer. You want to argue, and you're WOEFULLY underqualified to do so.

You vacillate between calling Dennis "the smartest guy on the forums" and in the next line arguing with himn about brake pistons (and you're - again - wrong).

Then you go on a name-calling rant? Morons, a-holes and idiots?

Unreal. Un-freaking-real.

Take Louie's dad's advice, and quit arguing with people who have 20+ years experience on you.

Someone remind me why I haven't pushed the BAN button (yet again)?

[maxnix]

Someone remind me why I haven't pushed the BAN button (yet again)?

Early onset of Alzheimer's? Give me a call and I'll help you find it!

[pito11213]

Hitman you didnt hit the ban button because you dont have to. Even though you guys feel like he doesn't want to do stuff to his car...the same info that is put on there can be utilized for everyone. I know I learned plenty. Just because you do not agree with someone's statements or thinking doesn't mean you shouldn't tolerate it.

I believe banning should be saved for racist remarks or anything of that caliber...or for people who drive slow.

[louiegz]

Your father is a smart man

Key word is was a smart man. He passed almost 6 years ago. My Q was his Q that he picked up new, on his birthday. My mom doesn't drive and she gave me the Q. Long live his Q.

Listen PMQ, we don't mean to be ball busters and put you down all the time. Just use a little common sence and don't argue with the experts when you don't like what they say.

[PoorManQ45]

You vacillate between calling Dennis "the smartest guy on the forums" and in the next line arguing with himn about brake pistons (and you're - again - wrong).

Um... could you clear that up for me. How was I wrong about what I said about having multi-piston calipers? Do you disagree that having more than one piston per caliper is better than only having one piston per caliper? Do you disagree that a larger brake pad creates more friction than a smaller one when applied to the rotor?

Take Louie's dad's advice, and quit arguing with people who have 20+ years experience on you.

That was not the meaning that I got from his advise. If I don't argue with you guys, noone will. Everything that you say will be considered true. Even though alot of what you guys say is true, some of what you say is not correct. Would it make you guys happier if people posted questions, one person posted an answer, and that is it? Then, you put me into the equation . You answer a question, even if you are correct, I still must ask why it is that way. There is nothing wrong with this. I like to know why things are. If that pisses you guys off, that's not my fault, you should control your anger better .

Someone remind me why I haven't pushed the BAN button (yet again)?

Because you secretly enjoy laughing at what I have to say.

Hitman you didnt hit the ban button because you dont have to. Even though you guys feel like he doesn't want to do stuff to his car...the same info that is put on there can be utilized for everyone. I know I learned plenty. Just because you do not agree with someone's statements or thinking doesn't mean you shouldn't tolerate it.

Thanks pito.

I believe banning should be saved for racist remarks or anything of that caliber...or for people who drive slow.

One problem though. This gives AZ a reason to ban me. I drive my Q really slow. As in less than 1mph. It sits in the driveway