Ok, here's the latest update. First startup it idles really lean, like off the scale lean. I let it warm up and it idles right at 16. Driving there is really no telling where it's going to go, it's all over the scale. Cruising it's really lean. I put the clutch in and it goes really rich. Clutching in boost I could see it going really lean because I'm venting to atmosphere, but out of boost it just goes back to idle, which is normally really rich.
I haven't checked for vacuum leaks yet and my egr tube might not be fully sealed, so I'm going to buy an egr block of plate and remove it completely. I'm also about to order that consult cable so I can see wtf is going on in the engine. Hopefully I can get this sorted out before the 18th, I have a track day then.
Is there ANYTHING else that could make a car run lean that I'm overlooking? Even the obvious stuff, it could be something really stupid that I'm overlooking.
Boost, Take II
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WDRacing
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Re: (Chris28)
One question. Is the TPS set correctly? If it's not, stop posting about trying s*** out and fix the damn TPS. The TPS tells the ecu whats going on...without that it doesn't know what load map to use or when to use closed/open loop. Also, make sure you're stock O2 sensor is in good condition.
Without the engine running like it's supposed to we can't seriously troubleshoot something. Wide open EGR, possible tps issues, plugs, 02 all things that need to be checked.
Before you add boost the car should be in perfect running order. Adding boost makes every existing issue alot worse. This is a glaring example. Set the tps with a multimeter, its easy.
WD
Without the engine running like it's supposed to we can't seriously troubleshoot something. Wide open EGR, possible tps issues, plugs, 02 all things that need to be checked.
Before you add boost the car should be in perfect running order. Adding boost makes every existing issue alot worse. This is a glaring example. Set the tps with a multimeter, its easy.
WD
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Florida240sx
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2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5 - Location: DeLand FL
Re: (WDRacing)
How are you checking your a/f ratio? Where is the wideband at?Calibrated it recently?I had to calibrate mine once a week. Granted it would only be off minimal. But when the car sat for a couple weeks it was off a bit. You said you where sputtering and had to get new plugs, so perhaps a misreading is going on.
Re: (Florida240sx)
WD: Turns out I was checking the TPS via the wrong plug, I did a 5sp swap so I was taking the reading from the A/T plug. I have a new TPS waiting for me at Advance but I'm waiting on a friend's multimeter so I can check the TPS correctly this time. Stock o2 sensor is brand new. The car ran perfectly before I boosted it. Granted I didn't have my wideband installed so I couldn't see what th is tune was doing N/A, but the car has run great for the past 5 months. All of this happened when I boosted it.
Florida240sx: O2 sensor is in my downpipe about a foot before the cat. Sometimes it smells like gas when the gauge is reading lean so it's a possibility that it needs to be calibrated, but it's a brand new AEM unit. How would I go about calibrating it?
As far as the bogging issue goes, I checked my ECU and got no codes. I then unplugged my knock sensor from the sub harness and went for a drive. Car bogs the exact same as it does with the knock sensor plugged in, and of course now I get the KS code. I'm going to jump it with a resistor at the sub harness connection to see if it's a bad KS or a short in the wiring harness.
Modified by Chris28 at 10:34 AM 7/6/2009
Florida240sx: O2 sensor is in my downpipe about a foot before the cat. Sometimes it smells like gas when the gauge is reading lean so it's a possibility that it needs to be calibrated, but it's a brand new AEM unit. How would I go about calibrating it?
As far as the bogging issue goes, I checked my ECU and got no codes. I then unplugged my knock sensor from the sub harness and went for a drive. Car bogs the exact same as it does with the knock sensor plugged in, and of course now I get the KS code. I'm going to jump it with a resistor at the sub harness connection to see if it's a bad KS or a short in the wiring harness.
Modified by Chris28 at 10:34 AM 7/6/2009
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Florida240sx
- Posts: 11114
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2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5 - Location: DeLand FL
You can buy a multimeter for under $10. I have 3 that only cost $2. And if oyu can drive to autozone they have a good multimeter you can use for free.
As for recalibrating, the best is to remove the sensor have your key turned and wait for it to heat up 2-3minutes, then whether you have a recalc button to push or you have a ground wire in the harness you can hit it will calibrate, or a dial in the back of it that you turn. read the owners manual on how to do it.
As for recalibrating, the best is to remove the sensor have your key turned and wait for it to heat up 2-3minutes, then whether you have a recalc button to push or you have a ground wire in the harness you can hit it will calibrate, or a dial in the back of it that you turn. read the owners manual on how to do it.
Re: (Florida240sx)
Turns out the TPS was fine. I took off all of my EGR stuff yesterday and what do you know, a vacuum line is dry rotted and in 2 pieces. It was the short hose that connects the base of the EGR valve to the (I think) swirl control valve. My EGR block off plate should be here Monday so once it's all back together I'll report back with whether or not that was it.
Thanks for all the replies.
Thanks for all the replies.
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DevilMB3017
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Re: (Chris28)
As hot as that area gets even without a turbo I cannot figure out for the life of me why Nissan didn't use a short hard-line there and instead that rubber one that always seems to dry rot!Chris28 wrote:Turns out the TPS was fine. I took off all of my EGR stuff yesterday and what do you know, a vacuum line is dry rotted and in 2 pieces. It was the short hose that connects the base of the EGR valve to the (I think) swirl control valve. My EGR block off plate should be here Monday so once it's all back together I'll report back with whether or not that was it.
Thanks for all the replies.
Re: (DevilMB3017)
The EGR was in fact the problem. Cruising AFR's are now right in 14. Now I have to find out why I have no brakes and why my oil pan is leaking haha.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Re: (Chris28)
O_o glad that turned out well for you
Re: (Chris28)
Yay!Glad you got it figured out Chris.
Re: (Razi)
Haha thanks Razi. Turns out it's time for a new turbo however
One full day of drifting and the turbo's seals have ceased to work. Every time I hit the gas plumes of white smoke would come out of the exhaust. By the time I got home my muffler looked like a chimney on a cold winter morning.
I'm about to buy a rebuild kit for the ebay turbo, but I'm not sure where to look. I want to replace the seals with something higher quality, not the same chinese stuff that the turbo was built with. Ebay has rebuild kits from 60 to 100 bucks, so I don't know what to get haha. Any recommendations? I'm also probably going to make some water lines for the turbo, perhaps that lead to it's premature demise. Either that or the internal wastegate set at 14 psi...stupid china chargers.
It's also still breaking up under boost, I think I have a boost leak somewhere. Every time I get around 5 lbs, it starts breaking up. Backfires a bunch too. 2nd gear was fine while drifting, but 3rd had lots of backfiring and a very noticeable decrease in power.
One full day of drifting and the turbo's seals have ceased to work. Every time I hit the gas plumes of white smoke would come out of the exhaust. By the time I got home my muffler looked like a chimney on a cold winter morning.
I'm about to buy a rebuild kit for the ebay turbo, but I'm not sure where to look. I want to replace the seals with something higher quality, not the same chinese stuff that the turbo was built with. Ebay has rebuild kits from 60 to 100 bucks, so I don't know what to get haha. Any recommendations? I'm also probably going to make some water lines for the turbo, perhaps that lead to it's premature demise. Either that or the internal wastegate set at 14 psi...stupid china chargers.
It's also still breaking up under boost, I think I have a boost leak somewhere. Every time I get around 5 lbs, it starts breaking up. Backfires a bunch too. 2nd gear was fine while drifting, but 3rd had lots of backfiring and a very noticeable decrease in power.
Re: (Chris28)
Darn, that sucks.
I think there are some eBay sellers with GReddy rebuild kits for T28s.
Best of luck!
I think there are some eBay sellers with GReddy rebuild kits for T28s.
Best of luck!
Re: (Chris28)
Did you use a oil restricter, if not, that could have caused the seals to blow.
Re: (Razi)
Yeah, I saw that, I'll probably pick up one of those. The engine is coming out so I can replace the front and rear main seals, while it's out I'll delete all the vacuum stuff that I don't need so there are less places for leaks. I have a summer job so luckily I have the cash flow to upgrade/repair things as they break haha.
Re: (95ka24de_zenki)
Yeah, oil restrictor was used. It's the one provided in the JGS kit, the .063" one.