So i finished up my turbo install last night and finally got to drive it. HOLY CRAP this thing spools so fast and has made the car SO much faster. Going down my street I hit boost in 2nd and lost traction, I haven't gone any faster than that because my hood isn't on yet. I hit 10 psi at about 2500 rpm, and it's amazing.
Specs are t2 bottom mount mani, 3 inch turbo back piping, ebay t28, 370cc's, EFI rom tune, jgs oil line kit, and ebay intercooler.
My first drive down the street I was running extremely rich, I hadn't tightened down a t-bolt clamp so I had a massive boost leak. My afr gauge showed 10, and I'm sure it was lower but that's the lowest the gauge reads. Next time around my bov coupler came off resulting in another boost leak. Turbo spooled up but I didn't go anywhere, as well as super low afr's haha. After I got that all sorted out it finally idled correctly, and my idling afr's are between 13.6 and 14.5. Under boost it drops to around 12, lowest I saw was 10.8 under hard acceleration but it went right back up to a little over 12. Highest I saw was 16-17 and that was when I was decelerating at high rpm's in gear.
It was late, I didn't want to wake the neighbors, and my hood still wasn't on so like I said earlier I didn't really get to take it out on a main road yet, but from what I can tell this is amazing. It's soo much fun. Thanks to everyone in the ka-t section that helped me out!
Boost, Take II
Re: Boost, Take II (Chris28)
Congrats Be safe and have fun with it.
Re: (AZ89two4Tsx)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors..._1217
That's the turbo. Today my bov kept popping off of it's coupler, but I modified the coupler and put a t-bolt clamp on there so it should be good until I can have the flange welded to my hotpipe. I have a small oil leak from the back of my oil pan so tonight I'll install my new engine mounts and re-seal the pan. Other than that it's awesome. Boost hits hard and my afr's seem to be in check.
That's the turbo. Today my bov kept popping off of it's coupler, but I modified the coupler and put a t-bolt clamp on there so it should be good until I can have the flange welded to my hotpipe. I have a small oil leak from the back of my oil pan so tonight I'll install my new engine mounts and re-seal the pan. Other than that it's awesome. Boost hits hard and my afr's seem to be in check.
Re: (Chris28)
Spray some hair spray under the coupler to keep it from popping off, until you get it welded
Re: (1mansho)
Well I literally drove it for the first time last night, but after 24 hours of beating on it it's still running strong haha.
The only complaint I have about it so far is that it was clocked upside down. I had to basically spin the center cartridge 180 degrees, as when I got it the oil drain was facing up and the feed was on the bottom of the turbo. The wastegate opens at 12 psi. I wish it were a little lower, but it's whatever.
The only complaint I have about it so far is that it was clocked upside down. I had to basically spin the center cartridge 180 degrees, as when I got it the oil drain was facing up and the feed was on the bottom of the turbo. The wastegate opens at 12 psi. I wish it were a little lower, but it's whatever.
Re: (Chris28)
I thought every turbo had to be clocked from the factory
Re: (95ka24de_zenki)
Some do, but a turbo advertised as an upgrade for an sr should be clocked correctly, or at least have the oil drain line facing down.
Re: (Chris28)
sounds sick man. Keep us posted/post some pics. btw, its an ebay turbo so chances of it being clocked aren't great as is, but its a turbo alone. Unless you tell the guy its for a bottom mount or top mount, its a crap shoot which way its gonna be clocked.
Re: (tctomasc)
Well my afr's are acting up, as well as my engine is bogging/missing/stumbling under load, every gear. It did the missing thing before I boosted it, but I got new plugs and for the most part it went away. I ordered a fuel rail adapter to put my new fpr on, right now I'm running the stock fpr which could very well be the reason for the afr's and the bogging issue. It kinda feels like a fuel cut so the new fpr should help out.
AFR's are above 18 when I'm idling unless I tap the gas, then it goes to around 14 for a few seconds before climbing back up. to past 18. When I'm cruising it also does this unless I tap the gas, then it does the same thing to around 14 and back up. In boost it's still around 12, so I think it is just my fpr since it only does it when there is a lot of vacuum.
Hopefully once I get this adapter everything will straighten itself out haha. Anything else I should check? I'm going to clean my plugs to see if that helps the missing issue at all, but could it be my coolant temp sensor or knock sensor? I haven't touched those yet but it's next on the list after fpr.
AFR's are above 18 when I'm idling unless I tap the gas, then it goes to around 14 for a few seconds before climbing back up. to past 18. When I'm cruising it also does this unless I tap the gas, then it does the same thing to around 14 and back up. In boost it's still around 12, so I think it is just my fpr since it only does it when there is a lot of vacuum.
Hopefully once I get this adapter everything will straighten itself out haha. Anything else I should check? I'm going to clean my plugs to see if that helps the missing issue at all, but could it be my coolant temp sensor or knock sensor? I haven't touched those yet but it's next on the list after fpr.
Re: (Chris28)
An idling afr of 18 isnt really a problem unless looked at from a tree huggers perspective. I always lean my idle out as much as possible, i end up in the 17-18 range. However, if you just have a tuned ECU that is pretty lean for a generic rom tune.
So, when your cruising out of boost, what are your AFRs again? Your saying they are in the 17-18 range? If thats the case, you got problems and you dont want to drive the car for anything but testing purposes. Your knock sensor could be saving your motor from blowing itself, i dont know at this point.
A faulty stock FPR could cause this i believe, but the stock FPR wouldnt do that.
Any CEL's?
So, when your cruising out of boost, what are your AFRs again? Your saying they are in the 17-18 range? If thats the case, you got problems and you dont want to drive the car for anything but testing purposes. Your knock sensor could be saving your motor from blowing itself, i dont know at this point.
A faulty stock FPR could cause this i believe, but the stock FPR wouldnt do that.
Any CEL's?
Re: (480sx)
Nope, no CEL's. I just got back from a test drive and it seems under moderate to heavy vacuum, aka cruising, the AFR's go way up. If I tap the gas then it goes back to around 13-14, but once vacuum gets back to around 20 AFR's goes past 18, my aem unit is just showing lines because after 18 it's past it's range. What I did while driving was once I got up to speed I would put it in neutral and just tap the every second to keep the afr's down.
Since the FPR is hooked up to vacuum it leads me to believe it's that, but there are other factors involved.
Would disconnecting my TPS to see what it does help at all?
Since the FPR is hooked up to vacuum it leads me to believe it's that, but there are other factors involved.
Would disconnecting my TPS to see what it does help at all?
Re: (Chris28)
Oh, and in boost my AFR's are still around 12, so that makes me think it's not the ecu. If it were a faulty ecu it seems it would be lean everywhere, not just during low vacuum/no boost situations.
Could the missing issue be my knock sensor retarding timing because it's so lean? That makes sense, but I believe my AFR's are still around 12 when it starts to miss.
Could the missing issue be my knock sensor retarding timing because it's so lean? That makes sense, but I believe my AFR's are still around 12 when it starts to miss.
Re: (Chris28)
When i say cruising, I mean say, 2nd-3rd gear(its been far, far to long since i drove my fvking 240 lmao) at 40 miles an hour with light throttle. What are your AFR's under that condition?
240 ECU's go completely lean when you let off of the throttle, thats standard. They might be dropping down into the mid 13's initially and level off at the 14-15 range. Should be fairly consistent as long as you are with your foot when your cruising with light throttle out of boost.
240 ECU's go completely lean when you let off of the throttle, thats standard. They might be dropping down into the mid 13's initially and level off at the 14-15 range. Should be fairly consistent as long as you are with your foot when your cruising with light throttle out of boost.
Re: (480sx)
3rd gear, 40 mph, light throttle. That's exactly when my afr's are above 18. Only if I really give it some gas, like the pedal 1/2 way down, do the afr's go back to normal. I can take a vid real quick showing my afr gauge and vacuum gauge, would that help?
Re: (Chris28)
A friend said to check for exhaust leaks as well as make sure my TPS is set correctly. It's an s13 tps on an s14 engine, and all I did was take it off my old engine and bolt it on this one, I didn't realize it had to be calibrated. Could that be the cause of my accelerating issue?
Re: (Chris28)
Nah a vids not really needed. So basically, at light load light throttle situations your AFR's are above 16 consistently. Thats a pretty serious issue and can destroy a motor.
You asked if the knock sensor would be retarding the timing because its running lean.. If the theory of the knock sensor is correct, you should have a CEL and you would be detonating, possible 'inaudibly' in that situation. I dont know from first hand experience but that SHOULD be how it works, regardless of s13/s14.
The TPS is a great lead. Follow that immediately, if you have a FSM its super easy to check out with a multimeter.
So is that the extent of your problems? Happening only in light-mid levels of load situations?
You asked if the knock sensor would be retarding the timing because its running lean.. If the theory of the knock sensor is correct, you should have a CEL and you would be detonating, possible 'inaudibly' in that situation. I dont know from first hand experience but that SHOULD be how it works, regardless of s13/s14.
The TPS is a great lead. Follow that immediately, if you have a FSM its super easy to check out with a multimeter.
So is that the extent of your problems? Happening only in light-mid levels of load situations?
Re: (480sx)
Ok, I'll check the TPS tomorrow when I get off work, I've read the tech article on it and I'll grab a good multimeter from a friend. I unplugged the TPS and ran around the block real quick, it seemed to help a little bit. The bogging issue is still there, but my afr's rarely went above 18. Idling was around 16, normal light load situations were around 17 to 18, rarely above 18, and when the pedal was more than half way down afr's were about 13-14 until I got into boost, then it was 12.
As far as the bogging issue, I'm going to replace my spark plugs to see what that does, but I honestly don't care about that until I get my afr situation straightened out.
Let me throw this out there. I've been driving n/a on this tune for probably about 6 months now without a problem. Granted I didn't have my afr gauge installed so I have no clue what afr's were like then, but could there be any other variables that could trick the sensor into thinking conditions were really lean?
As far as the bogging issue, I'm going to replace my spark plugs to see what that does, but I honestly don't care about that until I get my afr situation straightened out.
Let me throw this out there. I've been driving n/a on this tune for probably about 6 months now without a problem. Granted I didn't have my afr gauge installed so I have no clue what afr's were like then, but could there be any other variables that could trick the sensor into thinking conditions were really lean?
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DevilMB3017
- Posts: 1639
- Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2006 7:25 am
The TPS will cause issues only in light load situations... Trust me from experience. I'd check that right off the bat. I had TPS issues that I didn't know about for a long time.
I recommend getting a Consult. They're like 60 bucks, and software is free. They'll run your check engine codes, let you see what your timing is doing, see your TPS voltages, and just generally save you trouble.
I recommend getting a Consult. They're like 60 bucks, and software is free. They'll run your check engine codes, let you see what your timing is doing, see your TPS voltages, and just generally save you trouble.
Re: (DevilMB3017)
Godchsr, I'm just running oil lines. I let the turbo cool down for a while before shutting the car off, as well as try to stay out of boost for last few miles of my drive.
DevilMB, I'll check the TPS tonight. While searching I read your post about your's being broken for a while, so I know where you're coming from. As for the consult...where are they for 60 bucks? I wouldn't mind having one, I just haven't really read about them. Thanks for the help.
DevilMB, I'll check the TPS tonight. While searching I read your post about your's being broken for a while, so I know where you're coming from. As for the consult...where are they for 60 bucks? I wouldn't mind having one, I just haven't really read about them. Thanks for the help.
Re: (Chris28)
Here are some videos, maybe they will help. New plugs, NGK BKR7E's gapped to .038. First video is of my AFR's while cruising, 3rd gear, light load. Second video is of the bogging/misfiring problem. Happens around 3k rpm but goes all the way to redline. Near the end of the second vid you can really see the tach jump. This was with the TPS plugged in.
You know it could be because I'm low on gas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RaCYXzr1FdE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiF7325d650
You know it could be because I'm low on gas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RaCYXzr1FdE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiF7325d650
Re: (Chris28)
MY EGR TUBE IS WIDE OPEN.
Could this possibly be the source of my problems? I had to cut it to get the stock header off and I forgot all about it until now. Seems to me under load the egr might suck in air causing it to go lean? I read something about it on ka-t.org and I figured I'd add it here so my problems could be easier to diagnose.
Could this possibly be the source of my problems? I had to cut it to get the stock header off and I forgot all about it until now. Seems to me under load the egr might suck in air causing it to go lean? I read something about it on ka-t.org and I figured I'd add it here so my problems could be easier to diagnose.
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DevilMB3017
- Posts: 1639
- Joined: Thu Sep 14, 2006 7:25 am
Chris - My mistake, apparently they are ~$80 (here- http://www.blazt.biz/order/order.php)
I know that one has saved me a lot of trouble, so it's worth the money.
And yeah, I'd get that EGR plugged up.
I know that one has saved me a lot of trouble, so it's worth the money.
And yeah, I'd get that EGR plugged up.
Re: (Chris28)
It would be best if you went ahead and blocked it off, that could very well be the problem. When I blocked mine off, I took an old piece of hose, capped off one end, and put the other end on the tube and clamped it on there.
Re: (95ka24de_zenki)
Ok, I'm probably going to but the ecu talk usb cable, I'll order that on Thursday. As for the egr tube, anyone know the diameter of it? I'm thinking of getting like a copper block off fitting and hose clamping it on there, but the hose method would work just as well. By then the fpr adapter will be here so I can see if that does anything. Thanks for the replies everyone.
Re: (Chris28)
YES. Thats basically like having a large vacuum leak whenever your in the light/mid load situations. It basically is a perfect explanation for your problem.Chris28 wrote:MY EGR TUBE IS WIDE OPEN.
Could this possibly be the source of my problems?
Just get a end cap 'hose' from a hardware store and a worm drive clamp and try again. That will let you know for sure.
Re: (480sx)
Ok, I capped off the egr tube as well as installed my new fpr. AFR's are perfect during idle, but cruising is still a little high. With the TPS unplugged it idles around 15, with it plugged in it idles around 16. Cruising with it unplugged is around 16.5 to high 17's, TPS plugged in is around 17 to 18.
What should my fuel pressure be? Right now it's set at 40 psi at idle. Any lower and my AFR's start to go up, but I expected that.
Is there such thing as a vacuum leak tester? When I stick my ear down near the intake side of the engine while it's running I can barely hear a hissing sound. When I pinch the fpr vacuum line it seems to get a little higher pitched, but my vacuum gauge is reading full vacuum.
Bogging issue is still there, but it seems to only do it in 2nd and 3rd gear. I haven't tried to get that high in the rpm range with high load in 4th yet, I don't feel like getting pulled over lol.
What should my fuel pressure be? Right now it's set at 40 psi at idle. Any lower and my AFR's start to go up, but I expected that.
Is there such thing as a vacuum leak tester? When I stick my ear down near the intake side of the engine while it's running I can barely hear a hissing sound. When I pinch the fpr vacuum line it seems to get a little higher pitched, but my vacuum gauge is reading full vacuum.
Bogging issue is still there, but it seems to only do it in 2nd and 3rd gear. I haven't tried to get that high in the rpm range with high load in 4th yet, I don't feel like getting pulled over lol.
Re: (Chris28)
ooo k.
Why are you messing with the TPS? Honestly iv never had a TPS problem, all the ones iv used have always been well within spec so im not as familiar with the sensors effect on the ECU as i could be. I would just say, use a multimeter, check it out, if its working right then forget about it.
The following is ignoring all the TPS stuff.
Your idle is good. 16 is a stable idle, although you could lean it out for econ with a SAFC/WBO2 if you so choose. Your cruising afrs are WAY TO HIGH DUDE. THERE IS A SERIOUS RISK OF BLOWING YOUR MOTOR IF YOU CONTINUE TO DRIVE IT AS IT IS.
Stock fuel pressure under full vac is 37-38. Without the motor on, it should be about 43.
As far as your vacuum tester goes.. You could run a simple quick test IF you have electric fans or disable your clutch fan.
Get a chunk of dry ice, and set it in a bowl with hot water under your car. Start your car, and just observe your engine bay. If you have a vacuum leak you will notice its effect on the 'fog'.
Obviously dont let the car overheat..
Another thing you can do if you dont want to bother with all that is get a can of starting fluid, ether. Spray it LIGHTLY around areas where you think there could be a possible vac leak. If one is present there, you will notice your idle jumps up real quick and then stabilizes again. I dont use this method anymore because there are better options, and i dont really like spraying my gaskets and wiring harness with Ether..
Ether is EXTREMELY flammable. Dont be stupid. It will dry quick once exposed to air. I like to spray, wait till it all evaporates, then another quick small spray, repeat.
Why are you messing with the TPS? Honestly iv never had a TPS problem, all the ones iv used have always been well within spec so im not as familiar with the sensors effect on the ECU as i could be. I would just say, use a multimeter, check it out, if its working right then forget about it.
The following is ignoring all the TPS stuff.
Your idle is good. 16 is a stable idle, although you could lean it out for econ with a SAFC/WBO2 if you so choose. Your cruising afrs are WAY TO HIGH DUDE. THERE IS A SERIOUS RISK OF BLOWING YOUR MOTOR IF YOU CONTINUE TO DRIVE IT AS IT IS.
Stock fuel pressure under full vac is 37-38. Without the motor on, it should be about 43.
As far as your vacuum tester goes.. You could run a simple quick test IF you have electric fans or disable your clutch fan.
Get a chunk of dry ice, and set it in a bowl with hot water under your car. Start your car, and just observe your engine bay. If you have a vacuum leak you will notice its effect on the 'fog'.
Obviously dont let the car overheat..
Another thing you can do if you dont want to bother with all that is get a can of starting fluid, ether. Spray it LIGHTLY around areas where you think there could be a possible vac leak. If one is present there, you will notice your idle jumps up real quick and then stabilizes again. I dont use this method anymore because there are better options, and i dont really like spraying my gaskets and wiring harness with Ether..
Ether is EXTREMELY flammable. Dont be stupid. It will dry quick once exposed to air. I like to spray, wait till it all evaporates, then another quick small spray, repeat.