Bogging, Sputtering..

Post by **Justice** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

I removed my CTS , and well nothing growing on it. i wiped it off on a clean shop towl real well put it back in. it still has the problem but not as often.

I checked my plugs, no white detonation specs on mine, but it definatly runs like crap every so often.

my check engine light hasnt come on.

probably will go get it scaned at a local shop. just hate taking my car to other people.

Post by **NISTECH** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

Justice wrote:I removed my CTS , and well nothing growing on it. i wiped it off on a clean shop towl real well put it back in. it still has the problem but not as often.

No I didnt mean for you to take it out and check it. just check the connector and the terminals for the electrical side of the sensor. sorry for not being more specific

Post by **Justice** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

Ok checked the connections on the CTS, doesnt do it as much now. Its so wierd. ill be dricing , it will drop a cylinder, run like *** than ill be giving it gas and the lost cyl will come back on and slam me in the seat. freaking wierd.

next time it does it im going to start removing plug wires to find what cyl it is. than check out that injector. just trying to narrow down the possabilities. one more thing... shouldent the car be tossing a code ? im running on three cylinders and the check engine code doesnt come on??

Post by **vududoc** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

electrical

Post by **Justice** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

ok well its the 2nd cylinder from the front. was bogging, pulled over and removed the plug wires 1 at a time.

now are plug wires the same for all duel cam 240's? all the shops around here whould have to order plug wires and cost 70 bucks. if there the same for all 240's i could diagnose the problem by borrowing a friends and seeing if the problem persists.

another thing, could it be a fouled O2 sensor? that whould make all the cylinders run like crap not just one right? same thing with the MAF?

thanx for all the help guys getting to the root of this problem =)

Post by **NISTECH** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

yes on all counts. all 240 of the same engine

Post by **Justice** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

ok well its getting spark, took out the number 2 plug and it doesnt have white specs on it, its actualy realy black. black powderish????

im about out of ideas. whould a shop with a scanner be able to tell me whats wrong? it hasnt given me a check engine light yet.

grrr frusterating. tired of driving my mini-van HELP!!! eeek lol

Website · Post by **lbrowne** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

I have this problem since I bought the car and here is what I've done in preventive maintenance for the car, which means I wasn't trying to get rid of this annoyance.

New timing belt, new PCV Valve, new valve cover gasket, new plugs and wires, fuel filter, new waterpump, new T-Stat. Also did the sticky post about removing the AIC or whatever it is. all basically tune up items and I still got the fluctuating idle.

When I had my 89 coupe into a Nissan dealership for a seatbelt recall and I asked them about it and what i ahd done so far, they said grounding. Apparently these cars have a common problem they have seen where a fluctuating idle was caused by a bad ground.

Since I was in a hurry I never elected to let them check my car. Wish I had to of now, to have an answer for you all.

Post by **NISTECH** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

if it was only cyl 2 justice it could be an injector issue. your ground problem ibrowne is most likely the ground to the mass air flow.

Post by **powerdrifter** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

Gentlemen, gentlemen. Have any of you even bothered to check the actual fuel injectors, injector voltage, injector pulse-width, or the nozzle tips? The O-rings tend to leak quite often giving you a lean mixture at mid-high rpm. The electical connectors also tend make a bed connection and get contaminated with corrosion once the rubber boot on the end of the plug gets ripped, torn, or worn out.

Post by **BaSeBaLL4L25** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

when i took mine in they checked the injectors and i was told they were fine

Post by **Justice** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

I am actualy ripping apart my fuel rail as we speak. now for my newest question.........................

ok never took apart a fuel rail before and... well how do you get the injector out of the rail without dammaging it? does it screw in? pop in from the outside? any info quick like whould be good. whould like to get her all riped apart by the end of the night.

next question is were can i take the injector to see if it is ok? or have it rebuilt?

and its not a fluctuating idle problem. my problem is the car drops number 2. and now its constant. number 2 doesnt run at all.

thanx SOOOOOOOOOOOOO much for all the help guys =)

-Justice

Post by **YomnyM** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

Ok i know this has to be pretty commong with 240's being that i've been reading about it for a while, but i still can't get it solved. The car i've noticed that when is cold, or hasn't been started for a while, tends to run better, stronger... when it's hot it tends to lose power, feel like it's being held back or something, i already changed the fuel filter the spark plug wires and the plugs and i added a lil cone air filter. Also switched the CTS, any more ideas before i take it to a mechanic?? Thank you

Post by **Darius** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

I am new to the board as I just bought a '97 240 two weeks ago, but my previous car was an integra. When I first bought that, it did the same thing as you described, but never set off an ECU code or anything. It had the exact symptomes that you are talking about as far as bogging at low rpms and from a standstill. I changed out my O2 sensor and it instantly ran like it should have.

It's a cheap part (~$50) and should probably be changed out on an old car like that anyways. Besides it's a high stress sensor and they can foul easily if there are other things wrong with the engine, such as a leaky head gasket. Good luck getting it off of the exhaust manifold though:pface

Darius

Post by **YomnyM** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

yeah i know it looks like a pain in the butt to get out, but I'll have to check that out, but how would that have to do anything with the cold, good running, hot, bad running thing, i know in a car with lots of miles all those things should be changed.

Post by **i2ice4m3** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

check the MAF!! i started my car one night and it ran like $hit-like what you described. Wiggled the maf connector and it ran fine. I just took it out, cleaned it, and put some dielectric grease on it the next day. Runs well.

Post by **YomnyM** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

I already took it out and cleaned it, it basically looked brand new before i even cleaned it, right now coming from school the car was parked for about 4 hours and well it ran like a beast (for what it has) and then couple mins after it went back to the bogging crap

Post by **i2ice4m3** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

did u check the maf ground? try wiggling the maf connector while its bogging. If it runs fine during the wiggling, it could be just a bad connection. well good luck on it!

Post by **Nismo_Freak** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

If it's running rich in one cylinder then more than likely it's a sticking injector. That's the only way for that specific cylinder to be getting excess fuel. As long as the plug is dry and there isn't a strong wet gas smell being emitted from the cylinder I don't think you have an issue with the ignition system.

If you are getting a misfire on that cylinder the 02s will read lean as they measure the amount of unburnt 02... a cylinder that doesn't fire will just blow the unburnt AF mixture out. This in turn can clog your 02 sensors and WILL clog your cat. A clogged cat creates a bunch of backpressure and the car will run like crap all the time.

Post by **YomnyM** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

My plugs look whitish, so im guessing is running lean, i also don't smell gasoline at all, i already went ahead and ordered the 02 sensor, any other suggestions.

Post by **Nismo_Freak** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

YomnyM wrote:My plugs look whitish, so im guessing is running lean, i also don't smell gasoline at all, i already went ahead and ordered the 02 sensor, any other suggestions.

Check your timing at idle.

Post by **YomnyM** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

Ok i just replaced the 02 sensor and well nothing, no improvement, if anything i felt the car a bit slower, the plugs look white, sign of running lean. Anything else i can do this is really frustrating. By the way anyone one of a good nissan mechanic down In Miami, Fl. Thanks

Post by **YomnyM** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

thanks a lot, i'll take time one day and take apart the intake system check for leaks and maybe clean the Throttle body, will update soon.

Post by **Justice** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

my problem ended up bieng a faulty injector . just thought ide update. bought a new fuel rail and 4 injectors and now runs like a champ hehe "used rail with 4X injectors was cheaper than 1 new injector from dealer"

she runs like a champ again.

thanx for imput.

Post by **~*IdIoT bOx*~** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

Well I'm gald to hear ur prob fixed!

I'm having the same prob. Hesitation, bogging and my car is running rich. I got error code 41 from the ECU and discovered my coolant temp sensor was the problem, Even though it means air temp sensor. SO, anyways I changed if wif one I got off of another car. Big improvements, but it still runs rich and bogs. Just not as bad. ECU has no more codes. I've already done a entire tune up, Everything u can think off. Except timeing which i'm doing tonight. Now, i noticed that when I disconnect the air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor, my car runs like a champ, but still runs rich. I have a all my low end torqe and feels like I have an extra 30 horse. Its puzziling me.

Can anyone help me out. Sorry bout the long post

Thanks,

Andrew.

Post by **~*IdIoT bOx*~** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

BUMP, any ideas?

Post by **rico05** » Sat Aug 09, 2003 2:59 pm

I'm having the same problem. I remember that on my previous RX-7, the issue was actually attributed to bad grounding of the electrical system. I really don't care about how mine runs as I am getting an SR in the next 5-6 months, so I jsut have to make this engine "survive";) Not sure if I have helped, but mabye check all the grounds...

Bogging, Sputtering..

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