BKR7ES-11

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slik_s13
Posts: 378
Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:21 am
Car: 1990 nissan 240sx hatch back

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do you guys recomend i use these sparky's or should i go iridium? reason being i upgraded to a 2871r .64, 740cc injectors, z32 maf, and enthalpy tune. and i am running rich. i read while searching to use bkr8eix for 300-400 hp range doing 15-20 psi of boost. since i am doing only 10psi and under 300 hp i read i should run something in the 7 heat range but im am unsure weather or not i should go copper or go iridium. i know irirdium wil last longer.

but im also thinking my running rich issue is coming from something else that i am currently trying to figure out. i just want to run the right plugs to help me figure out the problem the my redtop. thanks
Modified by slik_s13 at 9:17 AM 7/8/2008


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kentuckyslider
Posts: 574
Joined: Tue May 20, 2008 7:51 pm
Car: 02 IS300 manual/03 G35 sedan auto

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I would run the 7's with that boost level. I had the copper 7's and it ran fine at low boost. You also need a FPR and a fuel pressure gauge. You need 36-37psi with the vacuum line hooked up. Get your fuel pressure and your plugs right and go from there. I would consider data logging and contacting enthalpy if you cant figure it out. Its also hot as hell outside where I live, I have a wide band and I even run a little rich in this heat. Rich in the heat equals fast and safe in the cold fall air.

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IanS
Posts: 9758
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
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The sevens should be perfect for your setup. Whether you choose iridium or copper is all about preference. The coppers will produce better spark but you will need to change them periodically, the iridiums on the other hand, will last a lot longer.

slik_s13
Posts: 378
Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:21 am
Car: 1990 nissan 240sx hatch back

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i have a nismo adjustable FPR and its set to 37psi with vaccum connected according to the fuel pressure gauge hooked up. im thinking it a bad o2 sensor.how do i know if it is bad?well i did start with a multi meter checked power and it was @13.86 volts i believe then i checked the signal wire and it read the same.?? i was thinking i was supposed to get some other type of reading telling me if it is working properly sending the right signal to the ecu.. but i am not good at reading or knowing how to use and understand this tool to diagnose my problem. i need some pointers on what to look for when checking the sensor like o2, coil packs, MAF, TPS... and all that jazz.can any of you give me some pointers on what the proper readings i should be getting out of each one of these sensors that maybe the causing the issue? thanks for your input

codyace
Posts: 1195
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 7:22 am
Car: S14 w/redtop
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Download an FSM

That's the first pointer

Second: Check for vacuum leak, pipe connections, and base timing. Also MAF wiring.

Third: Run BKR7E-11

bruinbear714
Posts: 1159
Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2002 9:58 pm
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You guys shouldn't be using -11 plugs for turbo'd engines as the gap for those plugs are too large.

Use the non -11 plugs instead.

IE, BKR7 non-11

slik_s13
Posts: 378
Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:21 am
Car: 1990 nissan 240sx hatch back

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thanks for the info. im am currently checking the IC nad the piping for leaks by pressurizing it. i couldnt see nything wrong but there maybe a leak somewhere that i cant see. so i'll let you guys know how that goes.

think a s14 sr FSM should work? i have a redtop. im thinking it should as far as testing, they should have similar diagnosing procedures.

the car was working fine before the problems ocured and the MAF was wired the same way. but i'll check the wiring again to be extra sure. do i set my base timing using the CAS? i suppose i just set it to the middle of the adjustment. is this correct? i'll search and see what i find, but if you dont mind telling me feel free!edit: i just found out i could find this info in the FSM. haha.
Modified by slik_s13 at 11:58 AM 7/9/2008

codyace
Posts: 1195
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 7:22 am
Car: S14 w/redtop
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bruinbear714 wrote:You guys shouldn't be using -11 plugs for turbo'd engines as the gap for those plugs are too large.

Use the non -11 plugs instead.
Most places have -11 in stock, not the regular plug. You shoudl be checking gap, and gapping smaller anyways, so the gap designation is moot.

slik_s13
Posts: 378
Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 7:21 am
Car: 1990 nissan 240sx hatch back

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yeah i gapped them lower. so its basicly a regular one now right?

im going to see why i am running so rich tommarow. i real hope its just a boost leak. it makes sense from the symptoms i was having. just havent had time to work on it. i may need to get a better IC because that where i think i have a boost leak.


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