Barts 1973 LJ Torana VH41 Twin turbo project

Post by **Carl H** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 4:34 am

that is the idle air control valve...good to have for idle...not egr.if you're on a map system then you need to just put a filter on it, else needs to be routed into the intake track before the throttle blade.quick word of advice tho, that pushfit aeroquip hose is great to make hoses on the fly but it does not stand up to heat worth a damn, either insulate the crap out of it or replace with ss braid...my oil hose almost exploded due to heat issues and has since been replaced with ss braid.

Post by **tmorgan4** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:20 pm

Is his Idle Air Control Valve in a different place than mine? I did realize that his valve looked differently (mine was the little flying saucer looking thing) but you can see my IACV on the back of the intake.

Post by **OutToWinPAHC** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:53 pm

I know nothing of these motors but IAC's are a passage way to bypass the throttle plate. A piston or solenoid controlled by the ECU open and closes the passageway. It is used to idle, basically its what a choke used to do on carb cars. IAC are located on the throttle body, not on the intake usually. I don't see any spots to land wires to control an IAC on that. It appears to be EGR related

From Nissan Parts.org

1) Egr valve 2) Egr valve Gasket 3) Tube4) Egr temp sensor 5) Bpt valve 6) Bpt valve Bracket7) Vapor canister 8) #1 Hitachi 9) Solenoid valve #210) Oxygen sensor Right

It looks to be the EGR valve. Hope I could help you out some.
Modified by OutToWinPAHC at 7:13 PM 10/7/2008

Post by **tmorgan4** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 1:15 pm

This is really puzzling me...It doesn't look like the EGR or IACV valves! You can see my IACV valve on the back of my intake manifold in the picture above.

Any chance you might be able to get another picture (maybe a few) of it Bart? I'd really like to find out what that is.

Post by **XJared** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 2:40 pm

thats the inlet for the iacv...notice the adjuster screw directly on top of it?

Post by **tmorgan4** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 2:58 pm

Yeah I did notice that screw which made me curious. Could this be a difference between model years? Both the IACV on the VH45 and my old VG33 used the same, identical 4 bolt pattern. Not a 2 bolt like I've got on my manifold. All the diagrams I've seen (like the one a few posts up) show the EGR valve bolting up where Bart has this "mystery" valve.

Look at pictures here: zerothread?id=33796

Post by **Mettler** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 3:18 pm

tmorgan4, Bart's engine is a JDM VH41DE, the hoses in and around the manifold are completely different to the VH45DE... this may explain your confusion

The one Bart was pointing to does indeed go to the intake tract before the throttle body.

[edit]Argh I posted up some pics but realised they won't be of any help[/edit]

The JDM VH41DE has a cast aluminium bend bolted to the front of the throttle body, and the bend has a tube coming off it for that hose.

Post by **Bart** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 3:21 pm

I know when i block the outlet and adjust the screw it affects the idle speed.

Post by **Bart** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 3:26 pm

So should i just plug it into the inlet before the TB? MettlerI cant remember there being a bend. I will have another look, maybe the bend is on the original 3 1/2" dia rubber hose which goes on the TB?

Post by **tmorgan4** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 3:31 pm

Mettler wrote:tmorgan4, Bart's engine is a JDM VH41DE, the hoses in and around the manifold are completely different to the VH45DE... this may explain your confusion

The one Bart was pointing to does indeed go to the intake tract before the throttle body.

[edit]Argh I posted up some pics but realised they won't be of any help[/edit]

The JDM VH41DE has a cast aluminium bend bolted to the front of the throttle body, and the bend has a tube coming off it for that hose.

THANK YOU METTLER! I guess I could have looked at the title that does in fact show he's using a VH41! I forget sometimes that not everyone here is using a 45.

Post by **Carl H** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 4:06 pm

if you're using a map based ecu no need to plumb it into the intake track, just put a small filter on it and reconnect to the ecu to keep a nice idle.

Post by **Mettler** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 4:43 pm

^ What he said! It's just the hose for the idle control, I forgot what you're doing for an ECU, but CarlH has already summed up what you need to do in either case, whether you're using MAP or MAF _b

MOAR PICS Bart

Post by **Bart** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 4:57 pm

I can take more pics. Im using a programable after market ECU, using a MAP sensor. I have another air signal line going to the MAP sensor on the other side of the manifold. A filter sounds good but no way i can feed another line from this outlet to the ECU

Post by **Mettler** » Tue Oct 07, 2008 4:57 pm

I may be mistaken in that it goes on that bend... I remember that bend has a tube coming off it for one of the bigger hoses, but I also remember there being a large fitting on the underside of the black plastic bend coming off the airbox. I'm not using any of that crap on mine though, got a custom bend in there

Bart wrote:I cant remember there being a bend.

Post by **fraz** » Sat Oct 18, 2008 3:09 am

Just take that whole idle control unit off and make a plate to blank it off. Some aftermarket ecu's dont control those idle solenoids very well.

Im running a rb30det but retained all the rb25det cold start and idle stuff.

My tuner advised me to blank it off, then set the idle with the throttle stop screw. I still have the cold start valve hooked up, so when its cold it idles around 1050rpm then drops down to 800/850 when warm.All you need to do is feed 12v off the injector feed to it so it only gets power when the engines running, the valve heats up and closes. I think the v8 also has this part.

BTW, nice job Bart, been following it with interest

Post by **Bart** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:53 pm

Thanks fraz and everyone else, i ended up plumbing a hose back into the intake before the TB, it works well and was quite simple.

Post by **Carl H** » Wed Oct 22, 2008 6:19 am

werd, you'll definately want the ecu decel idle up for your setup.

Post by **Bart** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 3:48 am

Hey guysI did a search on wiring up the alternator and found a few unanswered threads except a couple which wernt entirley clear.

I connected the main thick cable to 12v.Just wondering the 2 small wires on the plug, my guess is one goes to a cluster light and the other to 12v?The problem im having is battery is not charging.Thanks guys

Post by **Kalypso** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 6:44 am

If you can find, Hijacker

over in the sr20det rwd section he'll know just by looking at it.

he's a moderator, and take pics also.

Post by **Carl H** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 7:54 am

the white/red wire on the alternator plug is normally your alternator light...as far as charging goes be sure the grounds and the battery connections are good...a friend had a similar problem where the car would start and run but would not charge even tho the alternator tested out to be good.problem ended up being his grounds were on painted metal and poor connections, moved to unpainted metal and proper connections problem went away.

Post by **Bart** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 1:32 pm

Thanks guys, that sounds about rightI will give it a go

Post by **Kalypso** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 2:20 pm

I attached my ground low down on the intake side of my sr20det, right above the oil pan.

it cured all my starting and alternator problems instantly.

Post by **Bart** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 2:59 pm

Yes its just that one of the thin wires is not connected

Post by **Kirby260** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 6:46 pm

Bart wrote:Yes its just that one of the thin wires is not connected

Page 17 of http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Q45/1994_Q45/el.pdf

Indicates that the second wire from that connector, the white one is fused over 10A to the battery and the other goes off somewhere to the interior of the car.

I would hazard a guess that one of them is to enable the field coil so the alternator will actually start generating power. There is the resistor in there as well.

Post by **Bart** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 7:32 pm

CHAMPION

Post by **Bart** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 3:59 am

These are the two thin wires i was talking aboutI had a fiddle with it tonight but it got late and i didnt want to start it with no exhaust.The white/red is going to 12v when ignition on and 11.9v when engine running.Green/yellow not connected. YetGround is good

Modified by Bart at 2:18 PM 11/11/2008
Modified by Bart at 2:19 PM 11/11/2008

Post by **Carl H** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 5:38 am

the white and red definately goes to the idiot lights, the other one goes to something else...last time i looked at the fsm it said something about the computer.

Post by **Kirby260** » Tue Nov 11, 2008 3:49 pm

So after reviewing the FSM (which I should point out is the USDM vh45, but as far as i can tell pretty damn similar) again and having some practice reading them today.

One of these wires (White in the FSM) wires goes to constant +12V.

The other goes through the "Alternator 'L' Resistor" and then to a +12 from the car's 'ON' position.

The diagnostic display has a connection to each side of the "Alternator 'L' Resistor".No mention of the resistors value.

Futher more, if you take the FSM's perspective, in your case, the G/Y is S and the W/R is L. Where S is battery voltage sense (fused to constant +12V) and L is charge waring light. From here: http://www.autoshop101.com/tra....html

However then there is no ignition 'on wire' in this situation. What I assume is that the warning light and the ignition occur on the same line. By measuring the voltage on each side of the 'L' Resistor the diagnostic unit is able to determine charge state. This line is also connected to switched +12 so the alternator can figure out when the car is switched on.

Need to track down a Alternator resistor perhaps?

..offtopicforgot to ask, Bart, can you take a photo of one of the coils, the connector of the coil, and some detailed photos of your ignition transistor and connector for me?

Thanks

Post by **Kalypso** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 8:20 am

wow I really need some more pictures.

I cant believe you mounted the turbo without showing us the whole assembly and how its tied together.

thats the best part!!!

Post by **Bart** » Sat Nov 15, 2008 4:23 pm

Yeah i should take more pics. I keep on forgeting.I have half installed a new Afco aluminium radiator, made up some brackets.

Barts 1973 LJ Torana VH41 Twin turbo project

Re: (Carl H)

Re: (Carl H)

Re: (OutToWinPAHC)

Re: (XJared)

Re: (tmorgan4)

Re: (Bart)

Re: (Mettler)

Re: (Mettler)

Re: (Bart)

Re: (fraz)

Re: (Bart)

Re: (Bart)

Re: (Carl H)

Re: (Bart)

Re: (Kalypso123)

Re: (Bart)

Re: (Kirby260)

Re: (Bart)

Re: (Carl H)

Re: (Kirby260)

Re: (Kalypso123)

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