Back at it! No combustion on first 2 cylinders.

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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USMCgetsome
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Ok fellas i'm back at it. I put in some brand new spark plugs and well still no combustion. They smell like fuel on spark plugs but no carbon on spark plugs.

I pulled both rocker covers off and none of the black screw were tightened on either cover very securly. I pulled all the screws off without any problem. I took some pics of the cams. On the left hand side the first cam had some scars/scraping on it. Didn't look smooth like the others. Here you go. Anyone up for suggestions. The plan is to paint the rocker covers and then use HIGH TEMP GASKET sealer to put the valve covers back on.
Modified by KUILLIN_DRIFTER at 12:18 AM 4/12/2005


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USMCgetsome
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should it be cleaner where the gaskets are supposed to seal? For some reason i think this side is having some vaccum leak issues.

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USMCgetsome
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I would like to change the PCV GASKET. Anyone know anything compatible?

goofynick6
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There aren't vacuum leaks from valve covers, since it isn't involved with the intake piping, etc. Any leaks from around those covers are only a problem if oil comes out.

Nick

Slo_240sx
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At it again!? you have the worst luck. The funny thing is I thought the same thing about valve covers just leaking oil... I don't have a catch can but when I put my fingers over the holes they pull vaccum!!! stilling trying to figure why. But when I put my fingers in them my vaccum goes from 15 to 20. That still won't cause your non combustion though...

Check compression on all cylinders again and post. Then check for for spark again by pulling the coil pack out and take a spark plug or screw driver and put it near ground and crank. If it sparks you got spark.

Check for fuel... Pull the a fuel injector and see if it squirts a steady stream. Also replace your fuel injector seals because I remember they leaked. If you got fuel you are okay there...

How was your car running before? Was it running good then all of a sudden went dead? looking at your cams, you might have a sticking valve... I see that alot, either they stick or you completely drop them. That could be caused by bad oil pressure, so check your oil pressure too. If you did however, drop a valve or its sticking it will show up on compression.

try all of that and get back with us.-Alex

goofynick6
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If the valve covers are pulling vacuum, then you must have a hose connected to the intake? They should just be releasing extra crankcase pressure.

Nick

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Carl H
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jeez is that really a groove i see on cyl 2's intake cam lobe?valve covers are just there to keep oil in, they shouldnt affect firing in any way.

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USMCgetsome
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ok so this is what i know for sure.

SPARK - both coil packs fire 1 & 2. I put them both to the valve cover and saw a good spark emit.

Injector - i pulled the rail and watched all 6 spout a mist of spray. Didn't look like a water gun shooting like i've seen on pictures. just a fine mist when the injectors clicked.

ECU - Now i know that my ecu is jacked because i have to adjust my CAS fully counter clockwise for it to be a the correct 15 BTDC. So i'm working on getting a new freaking ecu. Which no one has just yet.

After i paint the valve cover, timing cover and the plastic island i'm just gonna take it to a shop. Man i'm soo upset because this is soo beyond my capable maintainance.

The sticking valves is a possibilitiy because i've seen the pistons move up and down. And if that's the case where do i source the valves? Actually if it comes down to that i'm probably gonna rebuild the internals. I will do the forged pistons/rods for sure but do you guys think i need to replace the crank and anything else?

Believe it or not i have that same issue, my blow by hoses pull vaccum. WTf the only one connected to the case is the line from the intake to the pcv valve on the left hand valve cover.I don't know what i would do without you guys.

goofynick6
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Are you sure the plugs on the coilpacks are in the correct order? 1 isn't firing 2 and vice versa? That would throw things way off.

Nick

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USMCgetsome
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i really see no way i could screw it up but i'll take a look at it again. Since the harness is inline and goes from front to rear.

goofynick6
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It could happen, putting the plug for #1 coil pack on #2 coilpack...just something to check

Slo_240sx
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KUILLIN_DRIFTER wrote: ECU - Now i know that my ecu is jacked because i have to adjust my CAS fully counter clockwise for it to be a the correct 15 BTDC. So i'm working on getting a new freaking ecu. Which no one has just yet.
Whoa whoa whoa... crank it all the way over to get the timing right? Tear down your front and chek your timing belt. sounds like its off 1 tooth. I bet cha thats what it is.

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NISMO_RB25
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i think Slo_240sx may be on to something. That could explain a lot of your problems.

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USMCgetsome
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ok fellas your talkin to someone who does electrical work.(mechanical newbie.) I took the timing cover off and the belt looks fine. It's a power enterprise timing belt. Yeah i posted about that already. When my block hydro locked i had to advance the crank pulley by hand with all the spark plugs out to get all the crap out(turkey baster was also used). After that event i had to advance the CAS fully clockwise. But the funny thing is when i tried other peoples ECU'S i had to center it out to get 15btdc which led me to believe that my ecu was bad. Well i'm sure it's the ecu that's bad. I've tried 2 other ecu's and i had to center the CAS to get 15btdc and on mine i have to advance it fully for 15btdc. Just something for you guys to know. I'm thinking it's ecu related. And after i finish painting i'll swap plugs on the first 2 coil packs.

goofynick6
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Whoa whoa, your timing belt has been changed? Sounds like it is off, you'll need someone familiar with setting timing to check the cam gears and the crank and the #1 cylinder for TDC....sounds like it is off. How is compression in the first 2 cylinders?

Nick

Slo_240sx
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Nick I think we just found out what it is. Once he said Power Enterprise it hit me that its been changed by him or someone else. Kuillin - find someone who knows cam timing tear down the front and have then look at it or I'll try to find you a diagram. Your exhuast cam looks like its one tooth off and thats why you have to crank the CAS all the way 1 way to get it to work.

When you changed ecus and said it changed your timing did it fire all cylinders and run okay? remember, computers have block learn, which is to say, that the computer needs to relearn all of your input signals and adjust output signals accordingly and most ecus don't even completely learn until like 5 miles of driving. What I am trying to get to is that when you change the ecu run it for a bit so it can get out of its learn mode. If its not your ECU than its your Timing and I'm almost 90% its your timing and has nothing to do with the ECU. Very seldom do they go bad unless you are tinkering with it and backprobing and shorting stuff out.

Compression test and check the timing and tell us whats up. If timing is off your cylinders would be all way off whack.

-Alex

Slo_240sx
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OH CRAP JUST REALIZED! Hydrolocked?! You turned the crankshaft and it skipped a tooth on the cam then it threw all the crap out the top! YOUR TIMING BELT NEEDS TO BE READJUSTED!!! You love me.

goofynick6
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Yeah, I would have suggested it a month ago had I known the timing belt had been touched..

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USMCgetsome
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Ok i have my r33 service manual but i'm not touching this one guys. This is soo not my area of knowledge. Anyhow, Yes the damn timing belt was changed when i had the engine installed.

When i got the damn thing it never ran right from the start. It was slow progression to this point which is

TIME LINE:July 04 - Engine installed/ new gaskets installed/ new timing belt(PE belt)mckinney mounts installed wiring done but really crappy job. So i finish the job.

Got Car after christmas imported from north carolina on 18 wheeler to my house. Started working on car and Car cranked but never started. Solution was cleaned injectors. Also, no ground wire for spark plugs. So now i had spark no fuel.

FUEL INJECTORS O-RINGS issue - Car Finally runs and no fuel coming out exhaust. Great fuel pressure now. Stable.

HYDRO LOCKED ENGINE - Fluid on top of cylinders. Cleared and got new o-rings to fix leaking injector seals.

P.O.S 02 sensor (bosh 3wire CA18DET) - Causing vehicle to die after engine came up to normal operating temperature. Idle and constant backfire is gone.

So i've never had this damn engine running to establish a baseline. Now the ecu issue is wierd since mine while running has to be advanced all the way over clockwise. This is after i got it running with the damn injector issue. So, i had the opportunity to test out some nico members ecu's and when i plugged them in i had to center the cas to get it at 15btdc with 4 cylinders running - i was still unaware about only 4 cylinders combusting- So i send them back and i'm stuck with mine. So i'll check into the timing issue and get back to ya. Compression last time i checked was 140psi on cylinder 1 and 2 and 3. Supposedly low but they're all the same.


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NISMO_RB25
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from all the wonderful things you told me about the shop that did the swap, it is highly likely they could of screwed up putting your timing belt on and skipped a tooth or so.

Slo_240sx
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KD, I don't think i've seen anyone who has worse luck than you other than me and my crx. You can do this don't pay some Shmoe to do it for you. Save the money and buy a walbro fuel pump or some ****. You do have one don't you? Here is my number 248-895-9926 Call me after 5:30 Eastern time and I will walk you through the Beyotch. You will be surprised at what you know.-Alex

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USMCgetsome
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LOL. I'll call ya brother. Thanks for all the suggestions and help fellas. Damn this car. It's got demons. Ok i do have a walbro pump and a nismo fpr and fuel pressure gauge and they're installed.

Slo_240sx
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LoL I just wanted to know, Ive seen a friend blow up an SR on the stock pump so if ya had the money save it from labor for some retard to do it and do it yourself.

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USMCgetsome
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i took this first pic because i need a starting point.

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USMCgetsome
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this pic is after i rotated the crank pulley to get the #1 piston at TOP DEAD CENTER.

goofynick6
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Hmm...looks like they're both low..

Slo_240sx
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yeah looks low to me... Is there a TDC mark on the pulley, nick? Or is it on the crank gear itself with a mark on the block like a honda setup? A good way to find out is to pull cyl 1 plug stick a long screw driver in the hole and feel the stall point in between it coming and and going down.

If they are low... when you bring the intake cam mark up to level point the exhaust cam point with be low. To be totally honest I would rotate that exhaust cam one click to the right.

Or better to do this... Pull the belt itself with crank at TDC, and just slightly turn the cams to where they are level and lined up. Put belt back on, tighten tensioner. Its okay to start it without the covers and belts on, just make sure everything is out of the way.

Give me a straight picture of both cams. Level and everything so there is no doubt that the cams are off, and so I cam draw a line across, because the center lateral lines of the cams should be right through the marks.

Tear the whole front down and give me a call and post pics. Later bro

-Alex

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USMCgetsome
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ok. I read in the service manual that there are marks that the cam pulleys are supposed to be set at as well as the crank gear. Only problem is i don't have the tools to take off the damn crank pulley. I know it's a big bolt but i don't have the fancy pulley remover. I'll try to do it with just my socket wrench. But it seems easy to set the gears to the timing marks on the timing back panel. I tried to get the bottom one off but it's a pain in the a$$. Anyhow, i'll try it tomorrow and set them all to thier marks with the belt off and then put the belt back on and see what happens.

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eh?
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I'm not sure what you're looking at...The two dots are supposed to be lined up with the outer timing marks on the cam cover back plate. As for the crank pulley, there are marks on the lower timing belt cover and the oil pump. Line up the crank sprocket with the one on the oil pump or line up the crank pulley orange mark with the one on the cover.When at TDC all three will be aligned.

Slo_240sx
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Yes do all of that and take level pictures so we aren't looking at angles.-Alex


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